( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 82 60 23; www.cascades-hotel.net; s/d Dh460/572; as)
In a wonderful location on the edge of Immouzzer village, perched high above the valley, this hotel is set in a riotous garden with tennis courts. Flower baskets and artwork decorate the terrace and corridors; the 27 rooms have small balconies, and there’s a licensed restaurant (mains Dh80 to Dh120). Paths descend 4km from the garden to the cascades.
Tour groups arrive at the restaurant around 12.30pm so try and time a lunch visit before or after then. The hotel also has a self-catering house 20km away, en route to Essaouira.
8Getting There & Away
Buses and grands taxis run between Aourir and Immouzzer (Dh30) until about 4pm. From Agadir, it is hard to visit the falls in a day by public transport; you can visit on a tour or hire a grand taxi. Thursday, when Immouzzer's weekly market takes place, is a good day to pick up a lift, but a bad time to drive as the narrow road is busy. Between October and May, the river sometimes destroys the road.
Taroudannt تارودانت
Pop 80,149
Taroudannt (also spelled Taroudant) is sometimes called ‘Little Marrakesh’, but that description doesn’t do the Souss Valley trading centre justice. Hidden by magnificent red-mud walls, and with the snowcapped peaks of the High Atlas beckoning beyond, Taroudannt’s souqs and squares have a healthy sprinkling of Maghrebi mystique. Yet it is also a practical place, a market town where Berbers trade the produce of the rich and fertile Oued Souss plain.
There aren’t any must-see sights. Instead, the medina is a place to stroll and linger. The two souqs are well worth a browse, more laid-back than Marrakesh, but with an atmosphere of activity that is missing in Agadir. With the little-explored western High Atlas, the Anti Atlas and the coast all nearby, the town makes a good base for trekking and activities. Just 65km inland from Al-Massira Airport, it is a more atmospheric staging post to/from the airport than Agadir.
History
Taroudannt was one of the early bases of the Almoravids, who established themselves here in 1056 AD, at the beginning of their conquest of Morocco. In the 16th century, the emerging Saadians made it their capital for about 20 years. By the time they moved on to Marrakesh, they had turned the Souss Valley, in which the city stands, into the country’s most important producer of sugar cane, cotton, rice and indigo; all valuable trade items on the trans-Saharan trade routes the dynasty was keen to control. The Saadians constructed the old part of town and the kasbah, though most of it was destroyed and the inhabitants massacred in 1687 by Moulay Ismail, as punishment for opposing him. Only the ramparts survived. Most of what stands inside them dates from the 18th century.
Taroudannt continued to be a centre of intrigue and sedition against the central government well into the 20th century, and indeed played host to El-Hiba, a southern chief who opposed the Treaty of Fès, the 1912 agreement that created the French Protectorate.
Taroudannt
1Sights
1Bab el-KasbahD2
2Bab SedraD2
3KasbahD2
4Place al-AlaouyineA3
5RampartsA4
2Activities, Courses & Tours
6CalècheD2
7CalèchesA3
La Maison AnglaiseA1
4Sleeping
8Hôtel el-WardaB3
9Hôtel Palais SalamD2
10Hotel SaadiensB2
11Hôtel TaroudanntA3
12La Maison AnglaiseA1
13Palais OumensourB2
14Riad MaiaD3
15Riad TaroudantB4
16Ryad TafilagC1
5Eating
17Big RestaurantC2
18Chez NadaC2
19Fruit & Vegetable MarketB1
20Jnane SoussiaB4
6Drinking & Nightlife
21Cafe AndalousB2
22Hotel Palais SalamD2
23Orange-Juice StandsB3
7Shopping
24Souq ArabeB3
25Souq BerbèreB3
1Sights
RampartsHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The 7.5km of ramparts surrounding Taroudannt are among the best-preserved pisé walls in Morocco. Their colour changes from golden brown to deepest red depending on the time of day. They can easily be explored on foot (two hours), preferably in the late afternoon; or take a bike or calèche and see the walls by moonlight.
Bab el-KasbahNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Built in the 16th and 17th centuries, a string of mighty defensive towers create the gates of the city. Considered the main gate, the triple-arched Bab el-Kasbah (also known as Bab Essalsla) is approached via an avenue of orange trees. Steps lead to the top of the tower, where you can walk along the ramparts.
KasbahAREA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The old kasbah quarter, originally a fortress built by Moulay Ismail, is today a poor but safe residential area, where winding lanes and low archways lead to tiny squares and dead ends. The governor’s palace, on the eastern side of the kasbah, now forms part of Hôtel Palais Salam.
Place al-AlaouyineSQUARE
(Pl Assarag; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
During Moroccan holidays, Pl al-Alaouyine is like Marrakesh's Djemaa el-Fna in miniature, with storytellers, snake charmers, escapologists and performers working the crowds.
WORTH A TRIP
TIOUTE KASBAH
Southwest of Taroudannt, this kasbah is so picture-perfect that it was used as a location in the 1954 French production of Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves. The stone kasbah overlooks a palmeraie and a couple of restaurants, with the High and Anti Atlas in the distance. Visit early to ensure you find a grand taxi (Dh15, 30 minutes) there and back, and to beat the tour groups.
2Activities
Taroudannt is a great base for trekking in the western High Atlas region, including the secluded Tichka Plateau, a delightful area of highland meadows and hidden gorges (two days minimum). The Afensou and Tizi n'Test areas are ideal for day walks. Agencies in town offer treks; insist on travelling with a qualified guide. Charges start at about Dh350 per person per day, including transport and picnic.
oLa Maison AnglaiseCULTURAL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 23 66 27; www.cecu.co.uk/contact; 422 Derb Afferdou)
Excellent guides and activities including trekking, Berber village visits, wildlife trips, cookery lessons, and visits to the soap-making and beekeeping cooperatives they support. Day trips to the valley at Afensou in the High Atlas involve walking through olive groves to a swimming hole.
CalècheTOURS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
You can tour the ramparts in a calèche. The horse-drawn carriages gather just inside Bab el-Kasbah ( GOOGLE MAP ), on Pl al-Alaouyine ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and at other prominent spots. A one-way trip across town should cost roughly the same as by petit taxi, although the driver may disagree; don't pay more than Dh25. For a one-hour tour, including the medina, a circuit of the ramparts and a small tannery, don't pay more than Dh120.
Abdellatif AbassiHIKING
(%0670 59 13 88; [email protected])
In addition to the trekking guides available through accommodation, Abdellatif Abassi is uncertified but recommended by readers, and can organise mules and village homestays.
4Sleeping
Hotel SaadiensHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 85 25 89; [email protected]; Ave du 20 Août; s/d Dh220/280; Ws)
Signposted from all over town, Saadiens has aged but spacious rooms with reasonable en suites, stripy bedspreads and Berber designs on the doors. Despite the gloomy, echoing corridors, it is a central retreat from the medina, with a 1st-floor lounge and mountain views from the roof terrace. Ave du 20 Août is a thoroughfare, so ask for a room at the rear. Half-board is available.
Chambres d’Hôtes des AmisGUESTHOUSE€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0667 60 16 86; www.chambresdesamis.com; Sidi Belkas; s/d incl breakfast Dh80/160; W)
This good-value guesthouse has aged
but sizeable rooms, basic bathrooms with intermittent hot water, a couple of salons, and a roof terrace for breakfast. It’s 800m west of Bab Taghount (on the west side of the ramparts) at the beginning of the open countryside, although street noise and the nearby mosque overwhelm any suburban tranquility.
The proprietor, Said Dayfollah, offers bike hire, trekking and activities, pick-ups from Al-Massira Airport (Dh350) and meals on request (Dh70).
Hôtel TaroudanntHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 85 24 16; Pl al-Alaouyine; s/d from Dh70/120; a)
In this central option, tiled corridors lead past a restaurant and jungly courtyard to rooms with simple bathrooms. A drawback is noise from Pl al-Alaouyine. The hotel used to offer a male-dominated bar proffering cheap beer but that has now closed.
Hôtel el-WardaHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 85 27 63; Pl an-Nasr; s/d Dh80/100)
This ultra-cheapie has a zellij (tilework) terrace overlooking Pl an-Nasr and basic 2nd-floor rooms with shared toilets and showers. Solo female travellers might find the alley entrance and male-dominated 1st-floor cafe difficult.
oRyad TafilagBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 85 06 07; www.riad-tafilag.com; Derb Tafellagt; s/d incl breakfast from Dh550/605; aiWs)
Consisting of adjoining medina houses, this creative hotel is a warren of staircases, terraces, lounges and a hammam. The nine rooms and suites, three of which have private terraces, place guests' needs above the dictates of design, managing to be unfussily artistic throughout. Free bikes are offered to guests, and evening meals are served in an elegant dining room.
There is a compact plunge pool concealed amid the Moroccan design wizardry.
La Maison AnglaiseGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 23 66 27; www.cecu.co.uk/contact; 422 Derb Afferdou; s/d incl breakfast Dh400/600; aiW)
On a quiet street north of Taroudant's central hubbub, this Green Key–certified medina house makes a welcoming base run by a brilliant team of locals. As well as nine en-suite rooms, there is a kitchen for self-catering, a roof terrace with views of the High and Anti Atlas, and a small library. Meals get raves reviews from guests.
What really makes this British-owned option special is the staff, who help you get to grips with local culture, whether on their tours or by just pointing you in the right direction. As the name suggests, English is spoken. If you're keen to stay here, phone ahead to check there is room available as La Maison Anglaise is popular with groups. Evening meals are also available for nonguests (Dh110 to Dh130), but bookings need to be made by email ([email protected]) at least one day prior.
Riad Ain KhadraGUESTHOUSE€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 85 41 42; www.riad-ain-khadra.com; r/ste incl breakfast from Dh550/770; aWs)
Recommended by some of Southern Morocco's best trekking guides, Riad Ain Khadra is located 10km south of Taroudannt in a rural setting. The quiet location is further enhanced by a garden pool, a hammam, a Jacuzzi and massage services. One of the area's more luxurious but still low-key options, Riad Ain Khadra is a soothing in contrast to the energy of the medina.
Riad TaroudantGUESTHOUSE€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 85 25 72; www.riadtaroudant.com; 243 Ave Al Quds, Derb J'Did; s/d incl breakfast Dh300/400; aWs)
In a residential neighbourhood near the medina's southern entrance, the highlight of Riad Taroudant is the rooftop terrace. Breakfast is served with medina views and the attention of a playful duo of cats, and downstairs a compact pool provides a haven from the Moroccan heat. Rooms are simply furnished but comfortable, and evening meals and 4WD desert excursions can be booked.
Air-con is available but is subject to a small additional charge.
Riad MaiaB&B€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0641 03 79 89; 12 Tassoikt Ighezifen; s/d incl breakfast from Dh380/490)
Possibly one of Tardoudannt's most concealed riads – don't worry, there is plenty of signage – Riad Maia is a great example of how to maximise a small space. Stairways lead to rooftop terraces and Maia's four elegant en-suite rooms, allowing glimpses of a well-ordered courtyard garden. Because of the stairs, Riad Maia is not suitable for children under six.
Palais OumensourBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 55 02 15; www.palaisoumensour.com; Al Mansour Borj Oumensour Tadjount; r/ste incl breakfast Dh600/800; aWs)
Tasteful and tranquil, Palais Oumensour hides away on a medina lane by the Catholic church garden. Above the central courtyard with its jade pool, the four doubles and six suites combine modern comforts and traditional materials, with Georges Braque prints and tadelakt walls. Elegant public spaces include a hammam, a massage room, a roof terrace with High Atlas views and a bar.
Hôtel Palais SalamHERITAGE HOTEL€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 85 25 01; Kasbah; s/d/ste incl breakfast from Dh582/674/1424; Ws)
This former pasha’s residence, entered through the east wall of the kasbah, lives up to its palatial name, with gardens, pools, courtyards and fountains (one inhabited by turtles) on various levels. With their traditional decor, the older, ground-floor rooms have an authentic feel, but the newer rooms, behind pink walls and blue shutters, are more spacious.
Rooms and bathrooms are disappointing compared with newer options, as is the service, but it remains a wonderful environment, with a bar and Moroccan and international restaurants.
5Eating
The hotel cafes and touristy eateries on Pl al-Alaouyine are good for breakfast on the square, and serve tajines and simple grills later in the day. The best place to look for cheap eats is around Pl an-Nasr and north along Ave Bir Zaran, where you will find the usual tajines, harira (lentil soup) and salads.
Chez NadaMOROCCAN€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 85 17 26; Ave Moulay Rachid; mains Dh55-95, set menu Dh80; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm; a)
This 60-year-old restaurant specialises in tajines, including one with pigeon (or chicken), prunes and grilled almonds. Above the male-dominated ground-floor cafe and elegant white 1st-floor dining room, the roof terrace has views over public gardens. Pastilla and royal couscous (Dh75 to Dh95) should be ordered two hours ahead.
Big RestaurantMOROCCAN, FAST FOOD€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains Dh20-35; h11am-11pm)
The American-diner ambience is a tad incongruous for Taroudannt's storied medina, but look behind the burger menu to decent pizzas and well-priced Moroccan-style grills of merguez sausages, chicken and lamb. Salads are fresh and zingy, and in a town where evening dining options are limited, Big Restaurant is a handy option.
Jnane SoussiaMOROCCAN€€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 85 49 80; Ave Mohammed V; mains Dh70-100; h10am-11pm; a)
This recommended garden restaurant has tented seating areas set around a large swimming pool adjacent to the ramparts. The house specialities, which include mechoui (whole roast lamb) and pigeon pastilla, have to be ordered in advance, but the chicken tajine with lemon and olives is good for a light lunch, and everything is decent.
Riad MaryamMOROCCAN€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0666 12 72 85; www.riadmaryam.com; Ave Mohhamed V; menu Dh200; h7-10pm)
The first Taroudannt riad to open as accommodation, Riad Maryam has been overtaken by other flasher options, but it is still a wonderful location for an evening meal. Multicourse menus, including soup, salad and dessert, are served in the verdant inner courtyard. Prior booking is essential, so follow the signs and visit in the morning to book for the evening.
The family owners speak French but little English.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Hotel Palais SalamBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h2-11pm)
Tucked away poolside in the lush gardens of the Hotel Palais Salam, this is a pleasant place to relax over a cold beer away from the hubbub of the medina.
Cafe AndalousJUICE BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pl Andalous; smoothies & juices Dh10-15; h10am-10pm)
Beneat
h a dentist's sign on a small square adjoining Ave Bir Zaran, this cheerful place is good for a mixed-fruit smoothie.
Orange-Juice StandsJUICE BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Freshly squeezed OJ is just Dh5 at these simple stalls.
7Shopping
Taroudannt is the central Chleuh city of the Souss, so it is a good place to look for the quality silver jewellery for which this tribe is renowned. The jewellery is influenced both by Saharan tribes and by Jewish silversmiths, who formed a significant part of the community until the late 1960s.
Souq ArabeARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-11pm)
The main souq, also known as the grand souq, has antique and souvenir shops hidden in the quiet streets. The area southwest of the mosque is good for present shopping, with a small square of jewellery shops just off Ave Bir Zaran.
Souq BerbèreARTS & CRAFTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-11pm)
Also known as the marché municipal, this souq, on the south side of Pl an-Nasr, sells carpets, jewellery, argan oil, musical instruments, lamps, leatherwork and ceramics – past the trainers and mobile phones on the central thoroughfare.
Sunday Morning SouqFOOD & DRINKS
( GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-1pm)
This large market, held outside Bab el-Khemis north of the kasbah, brings in people from the whole region.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 72