8Information
Taroudannt has no ‘European’ quarter or ville nouvelle (new town). Most facilities are found on and around the two central squares, Pl al-Alaouyine (formerly Pl Assarag) and Pl an-Nasr (formerly Pl Talmoqlate).
Internet cafes are found along Aves Bir Zaran and Mohammed V.
Banks on Pl al-Alaouyine have ATMs, money-changing facilities and visa services.
Banque Populaire ( GOOGLE MAP ; Pl al-Alaouyine; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri)
BMCE ATM ( GOOGLE MAP ; Pl al-Alaouyine)
Crédit du Maroc ( GOOGLE MAP ; Pl al-Alaouyine; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri)
Hospital ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave Moulay Rachid)
Inezgane Voyages ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 55 06 46; Pl an-Nasr; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Sat) Represents airlines including RAM.
Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ave du 20 Août; h8.15am-4pm Mon-Fri & 9am-3pm Sat)
8Getting There & Away
Accommodation providers can organise pick-ups from Agadir Al-Massira Airport.
Bus
Buses depart from the station ( GOOGLE MAP ) outside Bab Zorgane. CTM ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 85 38 58; www.ctm.ma; Bab Zorgane) has the most reliable buses, with at least one daily service to each of the following destinations: Agadir (Dh35, three hours), Casablanca (Dh190, eight hours), Marrakesh (Dh105, four hours) and Ouarzazate (Dh115, five hours)
Other companies serve Agadir and Inezgane (Dh30, 1½ hours, hourly), Taliouine (Dh80, 1½ hours, daily) and Tata (Dh90, five hours, daily).
Car
The best option is to hire a car from one of the major companies operating at Agadir Al-Massira Airport. There are local agencies in Taroudannt, including Alge Cars ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0615 09 04 13; [email protected]; Ave Prince Héretier Sidi Mohammed, opposite mosque; per day around Dh500) and Tinghir Cars ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 19 02 89; Ave Moulay Rachid; per day around Dh500).
Taxi
Grands taxis ( GOOGLE MAP ) gather just outside Bab Zorgane. Destinations include the following: Agadir (Dh40), Inezgane (Dh34), where you can change for more frequent, services to Agadir, and Marrakesh (Dh150). To travel via the mountainous and spectacular Tizi n’Test, you will need to hire the entire taxi (around Dh1100).
8Getting Around
Taroudannt is a good place to cycle; bikes can be rented at Brahim Bikes ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0662 74 10 91; Pl al-Alaouyine; per hr/day Dh10/60) on the main square. Petits taxis charge Dh8 per trip (Dh12 after 8pm).
WORTH A TRIP
ARGAN COUNTRY
As you travel along the N10 east of Taroudannt you will see frizzy argan trees, beloved of local goats and international chefs, growing near the road.
Approaching the mountains, the Tizi n’Test road leads through a lush state-run argan preserve – a dream destination for mountain goats accustomed to slim pickings in the High Atlas. Stop here to picnic in the shade among frolicking kids, or stake out the herds for the ultimate Anti Atlas postcard shot: a goat casually balanced on a treetop, munching on sun-ripe argan nuts.
4Sleeping
The best accommodation is in Ouled Berhil at the historic Hôtel Palais Riad Hida.
Hôtel Palais Riad HidaHISTORIC HOTEL€€€
(%0528 53 10 44; www.riadhida.com; s/d incl half-board from Dh616/1023; aWs)
In a restored 19th-century mansion on the edge of the Berber village of Ouled Berhil, some 45km northeast of Taroudannt, is Hôtel Palais Riad Hida. The village's best accommodation is in nondescript bungalows, but it’s a special environment from the moment you cross the tiled threshold and clap eyes on the central courtyard, with its towering palms and long pools.
8Getting There & Away
Exploring this area – and especially reaching where the argan tree goats can be seen – it's best to have your own transport. Some 10km further on from Ouled Berhil, a signpost indicates the Tizi n’Test road, one of the most spectacular and perilous passes in the country, leading northeast over the High Atlas to Marrakesh.
Taliouine تالوين
Pop 6000
The straggling village of Taliouine, halfway between Taroudannt and Ouarzazate, is dominated by hills and the impressive Glaoui kasbah.
Taliouine is the African centre of l’or rouge (red gold) – saffron, the world’s most expensive spice. Numerous shops and boutiques sell it here for about Dh35 to Dh40 per gram. The purple crocus sativus flower, from which the spice comes, grows only above 1200m. It flowers between mid-October and mid-November, when you can see locals picking the flowers around villages 12km east of Taliouine. A saffron festival takes place – around the first weekend of November – which usually incorporates nightly concerts from some of Berber music's biggest names, and massed ahouach (celebratory) dancing to the beat of bendirs (traditional hand drums).
Beware ‘counterfeit saffron’; the genuine article should stain your fingers yellow (rather than red), taste bitter (rather than sweet) and carry a spicy price tag.
1Sights
oCalligraphie TifinagheARTS CENTRE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0601 35 31 51; www.molidaz.blogspot.com; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm)
Amazigh poet and calligrapher Moulid Nidouissadan paints Berber proverbs and colourful compositions. Free to every visitor is a rendition of their name in Berber – crafted via a theatrical combination of saffron 'ink' and a blowtorch. Other interesting and well-priced souvenirs include T-shirts and tote bags. Moulid speaks a smidgen of English but is more comfortable speaking French.
Dar AzaafaranMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 53 44 13; h8am-7pm)F
This modern information centre is devoted to l'or rouge, with a small museum, saffron for sale by local cooperatives and a display of the current going rate. Most displays are in French but there is some information in English. Opening hours are not strictly adhered to.
Coopérative Souktana du SafranMUSEUM
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 53 44 52; h8.30am-6.30pm)SF
Founded in 1979, the largest and oldest of Taliouine’s saffron cooperatives has 160 members (four are women). The centre is well worth visiting for the museum, calligrapher and informative employees. They can explain saffron production, give you a tasting and sell you the spice, plus related products including chocolates, cosmetics and calligraphy ink.
KasbahHISTORIC SITE
( GOOGLE MAP )
Gazing at the brown hills, the kasbah is mostly disintegrating, but it makes a pleasant sunset stroll.
SouqSOUQ
( GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-1pm)
The village comes to life during the Monday souq, near Auberge le Safran.
2Activities
Taliouine is a popular trekking centre for nearby Jebel Sirous, which offers some of the finest walking in the Anti Atlas. Trekking guides can be arranged through accommodation or local operators.
Maroc IneditHIKING
(%0673 56 90 82; www.maroc-inedit.com)
Organises trekking around the Jebel Siroua region as well as trips exploring other parts of Morocco. Taliouine-based guides speak English, French and Spanish. Owner Annie Lauvaux is active in community development work around the Taliouine area. See www.ecotourisme-solidaire-taliouine.com.
ZafraniHIKING, CULTURAL TOUR
(%0613 88 05 26; www.zafrani.ch; Taliouine)
This Swiss-Moroccan company specialises in trekking, but also organises cultural tours and activities including stargazing, skiing and meditation, catering to individuals and families of all ages. Recent additions to its program include trekking trips incorporating the region's saffron and argan heritage, and cooking courses. Accommodation can also be arranged, as well as treks in other parts of Morocco.
Siroua DiscoveryHIKING
(%0617 03 07 03; www.siroua-discovery.com)
Headed by respected Taliouine trekker Nourdine Alhyane.
4Sleeping & Eating
The best of Taliouine's accommodation is slightly out of town in more rural surroundings, often with views of the atmospheric kasbah.
For dinner, ask for half-board at
your accommodation or try Auberge le Safran or Souktana. At the west end of the main drag near the gare routière, grills smoke away, and you can get a tajine (around Dh50), made with saffron, at Auberge Siroua. There are also cheap hotels on the main street.
Auberge le SafranHOTEL€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0668 39 42 23; www.auberge-safran.com; d/ste from Dh170/300; aWs)
Le Safran has basic, colourful en-suite rooms, with two budget doubles on the roof terrace and a spacious four-person suite. The salon looks across the fields at the kasbah, and downstairs is a Berber tent on the patio. The hotel harvests its own saffron, which it sells in the on-site shop-museum and uses in the delicious meals.
Friendly owner Mahfoud offers activities including trekking, hammam visits, saffron-based cookery courses, and a saffron and argan producers tour. Ask for a room at the back to minimise road noise.
Auberge SouktanaHOTEL€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 53 40 75; [email protected]; s/d Dh180/220, bungalow s/d Dh100/160, tents 1/2 people Dh50/80; W)
At this trekking-orientated auberge, guests consult maps in the relaxing communal area, and owner Ahmed can offer advice and arrange guides. Half-board is available (Dh220 per person) and the colourful rooms are pleasantly decorated in traditional style. It’s east of the village, across the N10 from the kasbah with great views of the crumbling fort.
Chez SouadGUESTHOUSE€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0671 05 68 46; [email protected]; r per person from Dh60)
Overlooking a dusty soccer pitch, this sprawling family home has a rooftop terrace with views of the kasbah and town. There are eight rooms accommodating up to four people each, three with private bathroom. Half-board is available (Dh160 per person), and Souad's brother, Morad Choukri, is a trekking guide.
Escale RandoGUESTHOUSE€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0662 54 78 28; www.escalerando.fr; s/d Dh330/440, without bathroom Dh242/330; W)
Abutting the kasbah, Escale Rando is a romantic little spot centred on a courtyard with gardens, lights, fountains and tortoises. There are four high-ceilinged rooms, a fully equipped kitchen and, for hot nights, a terrace where guests can sleep alongside the kasbah battlements. Half-board is an extra Dh55 per person and activities can be arranged. Excellent English is spoken.
Auberge TobkalCAMPGROUND, APARTMENT€€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 53 43 43; [email protected]; camping Dh60, bungalows per person incl half-board Dh220, apt Dh800-1200; Ws)
This tidy campground, on the main road 500m east of the turn-off for the kasbah, also has bungalows with en suite and four new apartments.
8Information
On the main road near near Dar Azaafaran are banks and an internet cafe.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Taliouine has a small gare routière. There are not always seats available on the buses passing through town, so grands taxis, also found at the bus station, are a better option.
Taxi
Grands taxis run from Taliouine to Ouarzazate, but direct taxis are rare and you will normally have to change at Tazenakht (Dh35). For Taroudannt there are relatively frequent direct taxis, but it is often quicker to change at Ouled Berhil (Dh32).
The Anti Atlas الأطلس الصغير
The Anti Atlas remains one of the least-visited parts of Morocco’s mountainscape, which is surprising, as it is beautiful and close to Agadir. The mountains are the stronghold of the Chleuh tribes, who live in a loose confederation of villages strung across the barren mountains, some of them still far beyond the reach of any central authority. Living in areas moulded by the demanding landscape of granite boulders and red-lava flows, the Chleuh have always been devoted to their farms in the lush oasis valleys, now some of the country’s most beautiful palmeraies.
Tafraoute تافراوت
Pop 5000
Nestled in the gorgeous Ameln Valley, the village of Tafraoute is surrounded on all sides by red-granite mountains. Despite its unassuming appearance, the area is quite prosperous due to the hard-earned cash sent home by relatives working in the big cities or abroad. It is a pleasant and relaxed base for exploring the region.
Tafraoute
2Activities, Courses & Tours
Au Coin des NomadesC2
1Maison de VacancesD2
2New HammamC1
3Old HammamC2
4Tafraoute VTTB2
5TawadaC2
4Sleeping
6Auberge Les AmisC1
7Hôtel SalamaC2
5Eating
8Café-Restaurant AtlasB2
9Cafe-Restaurant PanoramaB1
10Fruit & Vegetable MarketC1
11Fruit & Vegetable MarketB2
12L'Étoile d'AgadirB2
13Restaurant La KasbahD2
14Restaurant L'Étoile du SudB1
7Shopping
15Au Coin des NomadesC2
16Maison du TrocD2
17Maison TuaregB2
18SouqB2
Transport
19Buses to Ameln ValleyC1
20Buses to TiznitB1
2Activities
The best way to see the beautiful surrounding countryside is by walking or cycling, and several companies and guides offer mountain-biking and trekking trips. Operators have booths west of Hôtel Salama.
Cycling
The palm-filled Aït Mansour Gorges, leading towards the bald expanses of the southern Anti Atlas, and the Pierres Bleues are great destinations. Several places rent out bikes of varying quality; expect to pay about Dh60/120 per day for a road/mountain bike with helmet, pump and puncture-repair kit.
Maison de VacancesCYCLING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 80 01 97; www.tafraout.info; bike rental per day Dh60-120; h8.30am-10pm)
Has good mountain bikes.
Tafraoute VTTCYCLING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0670 40 93 84; www.tafraout-vtt.cla.fr; rack rental per day Dh70-100)
Has bike racks for cars – useful for a drive-and-cyle trip to Aït Mansour.
Hammams
Tafraoute is a good place for an authentic hammam experience as some houses here still lack water. There are three in town; massages are available at the new hammam ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dh12; hmen 7am-10pm, women to 7pm) behind Auberge Les Amis, although the male-only old hammam ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dh12; hmen 7am-10pm), just behind the market, is more authentic.
Trekking & Climbing
Tafraoute and the Anti Atlas offer numerous climbing routes and trekking possibilities, though most of the walks are strenuous.
Au Coin des NomadesCLIMBING, HIKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 62 79 21; [email protected])
Houssine Laroussi, a respected climber, is a good source of trekking and climbing information, guides, books and topographical maps. He can also organise village homestays and advise on buses to get to lesser-visited areas such as Afella-Ighir and Aït Mansour.
TawadaHIKING, CLIMBING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0661 82 26 77; www.guide-tafraout.com)
Accredited English-speaking guide Brahim Bahou offers information and guided treks lasting for one day or more, and can organise mules.
TAFRAOUTE CLIMBING
Oxford Alpine ClubCLIMBING
(www.oxfordalpineclub.co.uk)
There is excellent climbing in the mountains and valleys around Tafraoute. The UK-based Oxford Alpine Club have been pioneers in mapping the area across recent years and have produced excellent pocket guidebooks detailing around 2000 different climbs of varying difficulty across the Anti Atlas mountains. Order the hard-copy books from its website or access digital versions online.
zFestivals & Events
Almond Blossom FestivalCULTURAL
(hMar)
The Tafraoute area celebrates its almond harvest at the Almond Blossom Festival.
4Sleeping
Accommodation in town is good value; staying in the nearby Ameln Valley is also an option. There are two campgrounds 1km west of town on the Tiznit road
(R104).
Maison Tigmi OzroGUESTHOUSE€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0699 91 69 79; [email protected]; Blvd Mokhtar Soussi; s/d incl breakfast Dh187/220; aW)
Courtesy of living and working in London, owner Bouchra Hani speaks perfect English and her cosy and colourful guesthouse, a short walk from central Tafraoute, is a relaxing place to stay. The three rooms all have private bathrooms, and a quiet courtyard is dotted with almond and pomegranate trees. Breakfast is enjoyed on a roof terrace with excellent mountain views.
Hôtel SalamaHOTEL€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 80 00 26; R104, riverside in central Tafraoute; s/d Dh200/300; aW)
Readers recommend this hotel mixing local materials and modern standards, with Berber artefacts decorating the corridors, and helpful staff who speak some English. The roof terrace has mountain views and some rooms have balconies overlooking the market square, which the cafe-restaurant (breakfast/menu Dh23/65) opens onto. Recent renovations make the Salama the best hotel in central Tafraoute.
Les Rochers PeintsHOTEL€
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0528 80 00 32; [email protected]; s/d Dh200/300; W)
The former Riad Tafraout offers colourful artworks, furniture, rugs and textiles and Berber decor and vintage French posters. Located on the edge of town, it has a wraparound terrace with good mountain views and an airy cafe in reception. The only let-down is the 10 en-suite rooms, which are small and stuffy. Breakfast is an additional Dh25.
Lonely Planet Morocco Page 73