Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria

by Lonely Planet

  Roving RomâniaTOURS

  (%0724-348 272, 0744-212 065; www.roving-romania.co.uk; hApr-early Dec)

  Tailormade trips with Roving România allow small groups to access Transylvania's natural splendour, and enjoy authentic village life. A founder member of the Association of Ecotourism in Romania, tour guide Colin leads environmentally friendly excursions to track wildlife and spot birds, plus immersive experiences at shepherd camps (May to September) and in Roma communities. Prices start at €130 per group per day, plus expenses.

  DiscoveRomaniaTOURS

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0722-746 262; www.discoveromania.ro; Str Mihai Viteazul 17; h10am-3pm Mon-Fri)

  Tailormade small-group trips with this environmentally sensitive operator can lead you hiking between monasteries, encountering Roma communities, or following Princes Charles' footsteps through Transylvania. The emphasis is local culture and the outdoors, with wolf-tracking and nature-spotting along the way. DiscoveRomania can also arrange bird-watching excursions in the Danube Delta.

  Walkabout TourWALKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brasov.walkaboutfreetours.com; h3pm daily)F

  These informative two-hour strolls around Braşov, led by a bubbly young guide, weave local history in with Dracula myths and urban legends. Essential landmarks such as the Black Church and Schei Quarter are covered, with a good dose of wit. Ideal if you're short on time. Meet by the fountains in Piața Sfatului.

  FROM BRAşOV WITH LOVE

  Between 1950 and 1960, when Romania still considered itself Moscow’s buddy, Braşov was named ‘Oraşul Stalin’. Some claim that the Russian dictator’s name was emblazoned into the side of Mt Tâmpa, though this has since been discredited by many historians. Stalin's rule tampered with much more than the town name: ruthless forced industrialisation yanked thousands of rural workers from the countryside and plunked them down on the city in an attempt to crank the totalitarian motor of industry.

  4Sleeping

  Braşov has a superb range of friendly hostels, well-equipped apartments and cheerful, family-run guesthouses. Larger hotels tend to be hit-and-miss, offering a less personal and less atmospheric experience than Braşov's daintier boutique offerings.

  Rolling Stone HostelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-513 965; www.rollingstone.ro; Str Piatra Mare 2A; dm/r €10/30; piW)

  Powered by enthusiastic staff, Rolling Stone has clean dorm rooms that sleep between six and 10. Most rooms have high ceilings and convenient touches like lockers and reading lamps for each bed. Private doubles are comfy, or you can sleep in the wood-beamed attic for a stowaway vibe. Maps and excellent local advice are supplied the moment you step through the door.

  Centrum House HostelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0727-793 169; www.hostelbrasov.eu; Str Republicii 58; dm/r from €11/33; W)

  This huge hostel has plenty of natural light and cosy common areas, including a shared kitchen, alongside hostel must-haves like lockers. Buzzing and social, there’s always a way to make friends here, from baking nights to movies and pub crawls. Beyond the eight to 14-bed dorms, places to snooze continue in the attic, a love-it-or-hate-it space decorated with trilby hats and silver insulation.

  Women-only four-bed dorms cost €12. There's a free beer on arrival.

  Kismet Dao VillaHOSTEL$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-514 296; www.kismetdao.ro; Str Neagoe Basarab 8; dm/d with shared bathroom €10/27; piW)

  The vine-draped walls of Kismet Dao Villa add more than charm: they’re the source of this friendly hostel’s mulled wine each winter. Communal living at a relaxed pace rules this characterful place with six-bed dorms, three private rooms and a bean-bag-strewn games room. You even get a free drink for each night of your stay.

  oSelect City CenterAPARTMENT$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0742-224 028; www.select-apartments-brasov.ro; Str Mureșenilor 17; studio €30, apt €40-50; W)

  Less than five minutes' walk from Piața Sfatului, these individually decorated apartments allow you to live like the most glamorous of Braşov locals. Polished bathrooms, modern kitchens and spacious lounge rooms are fitted around the elegant bones of this high-ceilinged building. The apartments cultivate different atmospheres: one has a fireplace and leather love seats, another is framed by arches and flooded with natural light.

  Breakfast not included. The helpful manager can help arrange paid parking (from €3 per day).

  oBella MuzicaHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-477 956; www.bellamuzica.ro; Piaţa Sfatului 19; s/d/apt from 220/270/540 lei; aW)

  A regal feel permeates Bella Muzica, housed within a 400-year-old building, thanks to its tastefully restored wooden beams, exposed brick, high ceilings and occasional antiques. The main square location of this refined hotel is hard to top.

  Casa ReimsB&B$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0368-467 325; www.casareims.ro; Str Castelului 85; s/d from €48/56; paW)

  Pastels and acid tones mingle beautifully with bare brick and wooden beams at this boutique B&B. Personalised service from the friendly owners adds to the VIP feel, and most rooms have views of Mt Tâmpa.

  Casa WagnerHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-411 253; www.casa-wagner.com; Piaţa Sfatului 5; d from 245 lei; W)

  This former 15th-century German bank has been converted into a luxury boutique hotel, with 24 well-appointed rooms. Right in the heart of the city, exposed-brick walls, tasteful furnishings, modern en suites and pleasant management make this an excellent choice.

  Pensiunea Curtea BraşoveanăHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-472 336; www.curteabrasoveana.ro; Str Băilor 16; s/d €50/60; aiW)

  This courtyard hotel in a 100-year-old house has nine comfy double rooms and four suites, some with low-hanging wood beams, and all with trim modern bathrooms. Sauna and friendly management top it off nicely.

  Casa RozelorBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-475 212; www.casarozelor.ro; Str Michael Weiss 20; s/d €62/74, ste €68-84; W)

  This hidden courtyard oasis has five beautiful apartments, some with split-level floors adjoined by spiral staircases. Each is defiantly individual but all fuse contemporary chic with European antiques. Some rooms have air-conditioning. Street parking is available.

  5Eating

  Piaţa Sfatului is great for cafes and breakfast, while Str Republicii is more suited to coffees and ice cream. Braşov does high-end cuisine very well, with several romantic and refined restaurants standing out among a slew of satisfyingly rustic Romanian diners.

  oBistro de l’ArteBISTRO$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0720-535 566; www.bistrodelarte.ro; Piaţa Enescu 11; mains 15-35 lei; h9am-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-midnight Sun; Wv)

  Tucked down a charming side-street, this bohemian joint can be spotted by the bike racks shaped like penny-farthings. There's an almost Parisian feel in Bistro de l'Arte's arty decor and champagne breakfasts (59 lei), though its menu picks the best from France, Italy and beyond: bruschetta, fondue, German-style cream cake, and a suitably hip cocktail list.

  SergianaROMANIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-419 775; www.sergianagrup.ro; Str Mureşenilor 28; mains 25-40 lei; h11am-11pm)

  Steaming soups in hollowed-out loaves of bread, paprika-laced meat stews, and the most generous ratio of cheese and sour cream we've ever seen in a polenta side-dish – do not wear your tight jeans for a feast at Sergiana. The subterranean dining hall, lined with brick and wood, is lively and casual – fuelled by ample German beer and loud conversation.

  Bella MuzicaROMANIAN, MEXICAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-477 946; www.bellamuzica.ro; Str George Bariţiu 2; mains 20-30 lei; hnoon-11pm)

  In a vaulted cellar that flickers with candlelight, this intimate dining spot offers paprika stew, goulash and other country favourites alongside a well-executed range of Mexican meals such as fajitas.

  Casa RomâneascaROMANIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piaţa Unirii; mains 15-30 le
i)

  Unapologetically gut-busting Romanian peasant cuisine is served with aplomb at this brooding tavern crowned with a stag’s skull. Feast on salted chicken, smoked mutton or sarmale (stuffed cabbage) with polenta and sour cream.

  Keller Steak HouseSTEAK$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-472 278; www.kellersteakhouse.ro; Str Apollonia Hirscher 2; mains 60-90 lei; h11am-11pm; v)

  Bloody steaks and smooth red wine, served decadently in Keller's cavernous interior… there's more than a hint of a vampire's lair about this upmarket steakhouse. The meat is premium quality, with equally classy wines, brandies and desserts. If a whopping sirloin with Roquefort is more than you can handle, you can choose from Mediterranean-inspired fish dishes, a few vegetarian options and pasta.

  PratoITALIAN$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0720-444 422; www.prato.ro; Str Michael Weiss 11; pizzas 30 lei, mains 40-60 lei)

  The extensive menu of this elegant (and very popular) place spans pizzas, seafood and rocket risotto, cheese-stuffed ravioli and beautifully seared steaks. Pasta is made in-house from Italian flour. There is an Italian-inspired cocktail list too.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  There's a bohemian bent to Braşov's nightlife, with arty cafe-bars to linger in and a busy calendar of live music, but no shortage of rough and ready pub-and-club action too. Browse entertainment listings on Zile şi Nopţi (Days and Nights; www.zilesinopti.ro/brasov).

  Croitoria de CafeaCOFFEE

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0770-263 333; Str Iuliu Maniu 17; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6pm Sat, to 4pm Sun)

  The best coffee in town can be sipped at this hole-in-the-wall cafe, which has a few wooden stools for you to perch amid bulging bags of beans.

  Deane's Irish PubPUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Republicii 19; h10am-3am)

  As if transplanted from Donegal, this subterranean Irish pub with its early-20th-century cloudy mirrored bar, shadowy booths and old-world soundtracks, is a haven for the Guinness-thirsty. Live music some nights.

  Festival 39BAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0743-339 909; www.festival39.com; Str Republicii 62; h7am-midnight)

  Jazz flows from this vintage-feel watering hole and restaurant, an art-deco dream of stained-glass, high ceilings, wrought-iron finery, candelabra and leather banquettes. As good for clanking together beer glasses as for cradling a hot chocolate over your travel journal.

  3Entertainment

  Filarmonica BrașovCLASSICAL MUSIC

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.filarmonicabrasov.ro; Str Apollonia Hirscher 10; concert tickets adult/child from 20/10 lei)

  Lavish your ears with the sound of Brașov's venerable Philharmonic Orchestra, established in 1878, which hosts concerts throughout the year. Tickets for performances can be bought at the booth on B-dul 15 Noiembrie 50 (noon to 3pm Monday and Wednesday, 4pm to 6pm Tuesday and Thursday).

  Puppet TheatreTHEATRE

  (Teatrul Arlechino; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-475 243, tickets 0735-870 773; www.teatrularlechino.ro; Str Apollonia Hirscher 10)

  Teatrul Arlechino hosts whimsical puppet shows aimed at children. Reserve tickets by phone or buy from the ticket office (1.30pm to 4pm Tuesday and Wednesday, to 6pm Thursday, 9.30am to 1.30pm Saturday and Sunday).

  Opera BraşovOPERA

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-415 990; www.opera-brasov.ro; Str Bisericii Române 51; tickets adult/student from 20/10 lei)

  Opera classics, plus a few productions geared towards children, take to the stage of this 1953-founded venue.

  7Shopping

  Transylvania Folk ArtGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str George Barițiu; h9.30am-8pm)

  Beckoning across the road from the Black Church, this handicrafts shop sells sparkly decorative eggs, woven linen shirts, and other gifts with a taste of traditional Transylvania.

  8Information

  You’ll find ATMs and banks along Str Republicii and B-dul Eroilor.

  Raiffeisen Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piaţa Sfatului 18; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Main square bank and ATM.

  Tourist Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.brasovtourism.eu; Str Prundului 1; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Cordial staff offer maps and local advice.

  Check www.brasovtravelguide.ro for general info.

  8Getting There & Away

  Bus

  Maxitaxis and microbuses are the best way to reach places near Braşov, including Bran, Râşnov, Sinaia and Sfântu Gheorghe. The most accessible station is Bus Station 1 (Autogara 1; GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-427 267; www.autogari.ro; B-dul Gării 1), next to the train station.

  From 6am to 7.30pm maxitaxis leave every half-hour for Bucharest (from 35 lei, 2½ to 3½ hours), stopping in Buşteni and Sinaia. About 12 daily buses or maxitaxis leave for Sibiu (30 lei, 2½ hours), stopping in Făgăraş town. Three go daily to Sighişoara (30 lei) and press on to Târgu Mureş (35 lei, 3½ to four hours). Less frequent buses reach Cluj-Napoca (65 lei, five to 5½ hours, three daily), Constanţa (70 lei, 5½ hours, two daily) and Iaşi (70 lei, six to eight hours, three daily).

  Half-hourly daily buses to Sfântu Gheorghe (8 lei, 45 minutes) leave from a parking lot on the opposite side of the train station from Bus Station 1. Regular buses go to Prejmer (4 lei, 30 minutes), some from Bus Station 1, others from the corner of Str Andreescu and Str Lunga; check www.autogari.ro for details.

  Bus Station 2 (Autogara 2; GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-426 332; www.autogari.ro; Str Avram Iancu 114), 1km northwest of the train station, sends half-hourly buses marked ‘Moieciu-Bran’ to Râşnov (4 lei, 25 minutes) and Bran (7 lei, 40 minutes) from roughly 6.30am to 9pm. Take bus 12 to/from the centre (it stops at the roundabout just north of the station). A dozen daily buses go to Zărneşti (5 to 10 lei, 40 minutes to one hour).

  The main bus stop in town is Livada Posţei ( GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Eroilor 31) at the western end of B-dul Eroilor. From here bus 20 goes half-hourly to Poiana Braşov (5 lei, 20 minutes). Buy your ticket from a kiosk before boarding.

  European routes are handled by Eurolines ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-474 008; www.eurolines.ro; Piaţa Sfatului 18; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat), which sells tickets for buses to Germany, Italy, Hungary and other European destinations.

  Train

  The train station (Gara Braşov; GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-410 233; www.cfrcalatori.ro; B-dul Gării 5) is 2km northeast of the town centre. Left luggage service is available at the station.

  Destination Cost (lei) Duration (hr) Frequency (daily)

  Bucharest 49 2½ 10

  Cluj-Napoca 73-80 7 5

  Iaşi 92 8½ 1

  Sfântu Gheorghe 5-15 30min 15

  Sibiu 20-45 2¾-4 6

  Sighişoara 18-40 2½-3½ 7

  International train service prices vary widely according to the time of the train and whether you opt for a seat or couchette. There are three daily trains to Budapest (13 to 16 hours), one to Vienna (17 hours) and one to Prague (21 hours).

  8Getting Around

  Minibus 51 runs from the train station and Bus Station 1 through the centre, stopping at Piaţa Unirii south of the centre. From Bus Station 2, take bus 12 from the ‘Stadionul Tineretului’ stop on nearby Str Stadionului (just north of the bus station). At time of research a single bus ticket cost 1.50 lei, a day pass 5 lei. Stamp tickets aboard the bus.

  Most of the centre is walkable though it's fun to hire a bike from centrally located I'Velo ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ivelo.ro; Piaţa Sfatului; per hour/day 4/15 lei; h11am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug, 11am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun Mar & Apr, 11am-9pm Wed-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun May, Sep, Oct).

  Autonom ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-415 250; www.autonom.com; Str Nicolae Bălcescu 20) usually has the best car-hire prices (from 155 lei per day, with discounts for long-term rentals) and will deliver a car to locations inside Braşov for no extra charge. Sixt ( GOOGLE MAP ; %021-9400; www.sixt.ro; Str Apollonia Hirscher 14) has an office in town too.

  Taxis line up outside the train station. A couple of reputable companies include Martax (%0268-313 040) and Tod (
%0268-321 111).

  Around Braşov

  Beyond historic Braşov, many more diversions await in the surrounding hills. Most popular is Bran Castle, thanks to vampiric associations that most visitors are content to leave un-factchecked. Also in easy day-trip distance of Braşov are soaring Râşnov Fortress and Libearty Bear Sanctuary (near Zărneşti). Once you’ve had your fill of fortresses, this is superb terrain to stretch your legs in Piatra Craiului National Park or Poiana Braşov’s ski resort.

  Bran

  Pop 5345

  Illuminated by the light of a pale moon, the vampire’s lair glares down from its rocky bluff… but regrettably, Bran Castle’s blood-drinking credentials don’t withstand scrutiny. Claims that Vlad Ţepeş – either ‘the Impaler’ or ‘protector of Wallachia’, depending on who you ask – passed through here are unproven. Nor did the castle inspire Bram Stoker, much as souvenir-sellers attempt to link Bran to the iconic Gothic novel Dracula.

  These seem minor quibbles when you gaze up at the turreted fortress, guarded from the east by the Bucegi Mountains and from the west by the Piatra Craiului massif. Meanwhile, the castle’s museum pays greater homage to Romanian royals than immortal counts. Ignoring this, a gauntlet of souvenir sellers hawk fang-adorned mugs and Vlad-the-Impaler compact mirrors (really).

  The bulk of visitors see Bran as a half-day trip, with a stop at Râşnov Castle. Daring hiking trails down from the Bucegi wind up here too.