Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria
Page 16
1Sights
Hărman Fortified ChurchCHURCH, CASTLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.harmaninfo.com; Hărman; adult/child 10/5 lei; h9am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Sat, from 10am Sun)
From the outside, Hărman’s fortified church resembles a bright white layer cake. Enclosed by its mighty walls is a triple-naved basilica, the Church of St Nikolaus, which has retained its Romanesque style (dating to 1240) despite reconstruction. The centrepiece is a circa-1300 bell tower, rising 56m above the complex. Watch your step as you climb the narrow spiral staircase up the tower (and guard your eardrums if you reach the top when the hourly chimes ring out).
The main church harbours a fine baroque altar and women’s benches that date to 1753; the lack of backrests is a deliberate design feature, as ladies’ stiff attire didn’t allow them to lean back (or nod off).
A small museum in the outbuildings displays traditional furniture and embroidery. Don’t miss climbing the stairs to the smaller chapel building, which has magnificent 15th-century murals of Heaven and Hell.
Prejmer Fortified ChurchCHURCH, CASTLE
( GOOGLE MAP ; Prejmer; 10 lei; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun May-Oct, 9am-4pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun Nov-Apr)
If we had a choice of fortresses in which to wait out a siege, we’d opt for Prejmer. This superbly preserved complex has the most powerful fortified walls in Transylvania at 4.5m thick. Prejmer’s fortress was originally constructed in the early 1200s by Teutonic knights. A 15th-century reconstruction shaped it into the battering-ram-proof fortification that stands today, encircling a Gothic church. The 270 store rooms were once packed with produce to allow inhabitants to stay fed while under attack.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hărman and Prejmer each have a few sleepy, budget guesthouses, but you're far better off staying in Braşov (12km south of Hărman).
Dining options are also limited. In Prejmer, find a couple of cafes and restaurants on Strada Mare (the end that runs south from the church). Hărman has a couple of restaurants along Strada Ștefan cel Mare, including a good pizzeria.
AlthausPIZZA$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0268-367 850; Str Ștefan cel Mare 295, Hărman; mains 20 lei; hnoon-11pm)
One of few options in Hărman, this bustling little spot serves good thin-crust pizza within steps of the fortified church, and there's a shady garden to relax in.
8Getting There & Away
By bus, it's fairly easy to visit both Prejmer and Hărman on a day trip from Braşov. Head to Prejmer first, from a stop near Braşov's Bus Station 1 (Autogara 1; 4 lei, 20 minutes, regular). Then take a Braşov-bound bus and exit at the Hărman stop on the way back (3.50 lei, 20 minutes, four daily); it’s a 20-minute walk from the highway to Hărman's church.
If you're visiting only Hărman, connections to and from Braşov are frequent (2.50 lei, 15 minutes).
WORTH A TRIP
THE KALIBASH VILLAGES
Snoozing on the northeastern edge of Piatra Craiului National Park are Măgura and Peștera, known as the Kalibash Villages. This alpine idyll of fields flecked with cottages, backed by Mt Craiului, is interrupted only by crowing cocks (and sheepdogs chasing your car). Tiny Măgura and Peștera are superb bases to launch into the national park or join a bear-tracking tour.
The villages’ first inhabitants lived in mud huts dug into the ground, known as coliba, which gave the area its name. Meadows continue to be cut by scythe. While Peștera is just outside the national park boundary, Măgura is reachable only by rattling along a steep gravelled road, giving the area a wild, lost-in-time feel.
Măgura-based Carpathian Nature Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0745-512 096; www.cntours.eu; Villa Hermani, Măgura village) can help you spot bears, boar, birds of prey and more. The tour operator specialises in immersive wildlife experiences, plus trekking and cultural trips. Most popular are bear-hide trips, which take you by minibus from Măgura (an hour's drive) into a protected nature reserve.
For hiking, May to September is prime season, or June to August if you’re heading to high alpine locations. There may already be snowfall in some areas from October.
Măgura’s excellent Villa Hermani ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0740-022 384; www.cntours.eu; Măgura; half-board per person s/d €58/43; paW) makes a good base in the national park; book well in advance. Meanwhile Peștera, just south of the park boundary, has a bigger choice of B&Bs and hotels.
Măgura and Peștera are a 17km drive from Bran and 7km drive from Zărneşti. Roads are winding and buses don't come here, so you'll need private transport.
Saxon Land
North of the Carpathian Mountains roll the immortal villages of Saxon Land. For many travellers, this area of golden cornfields and fortified churches is the ‘real Transylvania’. Rattling along the dirt roads of a Saxon village, past blue-and-white houses and the odd horse and cart, is a guaranteed highlight – particularly if journey’s end is a haunting castle or fortified church.
Most popular is vampire tourist spot Sighişoara, though the poised city of Sibiu increasingly pulls crowds for its festivals and gastronomy. The most memorable journeys revolve around fortified Saxon villages, like Viscri and Alma Vii, for thriving handicrafts, homespun Transylvanian food, and guesthouses tucked inside authentic Saxon homes.
Sighişoara
Pop 28,100
So resplendent are Sighişoara’s pastel-coloured buildings, stony lanes and medieval towers, you’ll rub your eyes in disbelief. Fortified walls encircle Sighişoara’s lustrous merchant houses, now harbouring cafes, hotels and craft shops. Lurking behind the gingerbread roofs and turrets of the Unesco-protected old town is the history of Vlad Ţepeş, Transylvania’s most notorious ruler; he was born in a house that is visitable to this day. Revered by many Romanians for protecting Transylvania from Turkish attacks, Ţepeş is better remembered as Vlad the Impaler, or Dracula, fuelling a local industry of vampire-themed souvenirs.
Allow time to lose yourself along Sighişoara's alleys, hike to its hilltop church, and sip coffee at cafes half a millennium old. If Sighişoara doesn’t sate your thirst for medieval splendour, it also makes a great jumping-off point to explore Saxon villages like Viscri and Biertan.
Sighişoara
1Sights
1Blacksmiths' TowerB3
2Bootmakers' TowerB2
3Casa Vlad DraculB3
4Church of the Dominican MonasteryB2
5Church on the HillA4
6CitadelA2
7Clock TowerB3
8Piaţa CetăţiiB2
9Scholars' StairwayA3
10Statue of Vlad ŢepeşB2
11Tailors' TowerA2
12Tinsmiths' TowerB3
4Sleeping
13Burg HostelB2
14Casa BarocăB3
15Casa Georgius KraussB2
16Casa SaseascaB2
17Casa WagnerB2
18Central ParkB4
19Fronius ResidenceB3
20Hotel SighişoaraB3
21Hotel-Restaurant ClaudiuA4
22Pensiune Cristina & PavelA3
23Pensiunea LegendaB2
5Eating
24AltepostB4
25Café InternationalB2
Casa Vlad DraculB3
Central ParkB4
Hotel-Restaurant SighişoaraB3
6Drinking & Nightlife
26AristocratD2
7Shopping
Arts & CraftsB3
1Sights
CitadelFORTRESS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Sighişoara's delightful medieval buildings are enclosed within its citadel, a Unesco-listed complex of protective walls and watchtowers. Walking in the citadel is today a tranquil, fairytale-like experience, but these towers were once packed with weapons and emergency supplies, guarding Sighişoara from Turkish attacks (note the upper windows, from which arrows could be fired).
From the 14th to 16th centuries each of the 14 towers and five artillery bastions was managed by a different town guild, and the walls extended 903m. Sur
viving today are nine towers and two bastions.
Dating from the 16th century, the Bootmakers' Tower (Turnul Cizmarilor; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Zidul Cetăţii; hclosed to the public) was a key point of defence from the northern end. Just south, the Tailors' Tower (Turnul Croitorilor; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Zidul Cetăţii; hclosed to the public) was built to guard over the back entrance to the citadel. As with many of the buildings here, the tower was engulfed in a massive fire in 1676 and rebuilt afterward. On the eastern edge of the citadel is the Blacksmiths' Tower (Turnul Fierarilor; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piața Muzeului; hclosed to the public), a pointy-roofed watchtower dating to 1631. Finally, the southerly (and top-heavy) Tinsmiths' Tower (Turnul Cositorarilor; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piaţa Răţuştelor; hclosed to the public) is one of the most easily recognisable in the citadel, both for its height (25m) and its octagonal upper level. A siege in 1704 left scars in the building that are visible to this day.
Sighişoara | Aivita Arika / Shutterstock ©
Clock TowerMUSEUM
(Turnul cu Ceas; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piaţa Muzeului 1; adult/child 14/3.50 lei; h9am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5.30pm Sat & Sun)
The multicoloured tiled roof of Sighişoara’s Clock Tower glitters like the scales of a dragon. The tower was built in the 14th century and expanded 200 years later. It remains the prettiest sight in town, offering a magnificent panorama from the top. The views are as good a reason to visit as the museum inside, a patchy collection of Roman vessels, scythes and tombstones, and a scale model of the fortified town (English-language explanation is variable).
Casa Vlad DraculHISTORIC BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.casavladdracul.ro; Str Cositorarilor 5; 5 lei; h10am-10pm)
Vlad Ţepeş (aka Dracula) was reputedly born in this house in 1431 and lived here until the age of four. It's now a decent restaurant, but for a small admission, the staff will show you Vlad's old room (and give you a little scare). Bubble-burster: the building is indeed centuries old, but has been completely rebuilt since Vlad's days.
Church of the Dominican MonasteryCHURCH
(Biserica Mănăstirii; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piaţa Muzeului; 5 lei; h10am-5pm)
This late-Gothic church has a spooky air, and guards a trove of baroque finery inside. First mentioned in 1298, the church was rebuilt between 1482 and 1515 after Mongol and Tatar invasions, and again after Sighişoara's great fire in 1676. The bronze baptismal font dates to 1440, though most of its treasures are baroque, including the altar. There's an impressive collection of Anatolian carpets from the 16th and 17th centuries.
Mass for the Saxon community is held here to this day.
Piaţa CetăţiiSQUARE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Gem-sized Piaţa Cetăţii is the heart of old Sighişoara. It was here that markets, craft fairs, public executions, impalings and witch trials were held.
Scholars' StairwayHISTORIC BUILDING
(Scara Şcolarilor; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Şcolii)
From Piaţa Cetăţii, turn south up Str Şcolii to reach the 176-step covered stairway, which has tunnelled its way up the hill since 1642. With light dappling through the roof and buskers at the top, it's a charming ramble.
Church on the HillCHURCH
(Biserica din Deal; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5 lei; h10am-5pm)
Don't miss hiking up the covered stairway to 'School Hill' (418m) to admire this evocative late-Gothic, triple-naved church. Originally a 13th-century Romanesque basilica, it was restored in Gothic style across the 14th and 15th centuries. Inside, find traces of 15th-century frescoes, Renaissance furnishings, and an impressive Gothic altarpiece (1520).
Breite Ancient Oak Tree ReserveFOREST
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0265-506 024; www.rezervatia-breite.ro)F
Escape the crowds and visit the enchanting Breite Ancient Oak Tree Reserve, 2km west of town. Its 133 hectares boast 800-year-old oaks, with circumferences of 400cm to 600cm.
Statue of Vlad ŢepeşMONUMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Behind the Church of the Dominican Monastery is a Statue of Vlad Ţepeş (sometimes known as 'The Impaler'), showing the legend with a bewildered look and his trademark circa-1981 porno moustache.
2Activities
Rent bikes in summer at Pensiune Cristina & Pavel.
Some 17km outside town, Cross-Country Farm ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0369-086 012; www.cross-country.ro; Prod; horse riding per hour 80 lei) offers horseback riding past traditional villages and wagon rides for beginners (from 100 lei).
TTours
Eye ToursCULTURAL, HIKING
(%0747-375 715; www.facebook.com/Eyetours-Transylvania-140617032968093; 3-day trips from €70)
Run by a Dutchman who fell in love with Romania and never looked back, Eye Tours specialises in tailormade multiday trips into Saxon Land, from hiking to visiting shepherds, charcoal burners and other local trades. Friendly owner Marco Nawjin can also help arrange accommodation. Get in touch via Facebook a few days in advance of your trip.
Wanderlust TourCULTURAL, CYCLING
(%0728-216 212, 0765-156 653; www.wanderlust-tour.ro)
Wanderlust offers day trips to Saxon villages and cycling tours. You can also experience rustic life by meeting traditional charcoal burners and cheese makers. Tours are available in Romanian, English or German. Wanderlust can also help with bike hire and transfers.
zFestivals & Events
International Vampire Film & Arts FestivalART, FILM
(www.ivfaf.com; hlate-May)
Don your best black cloak for this four-day celebration of the dark arts. A varied program of horror movie screenings, Gothic literature readings and provocative art shows are sure to thrill children of the night.
Festival of Medieval Arts & CraftsCULTURAL
(www.sighisoaramedievala.ro; hJul)
Over three days, Sighişoara embraces its medieval history through costumed reenactments, parades, live concerts and plenty of beer-spilling, street-food-nibbling fun around the citadel.
4Sleeping
From hostels in medieval buildings to boutique hotels in the attics of merchant mansions, Sighişoara has evocative accommodation to suit most budgets. Staying in a creaky, centuries-old building is one of the pleasures of visiting Sighişoara. Book well ahead for summer. Prices often rise at weekends.
Pensiune Cristina & PavelPENSION$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0744-119 211, 0744-159 667; www.pensiuneafaur.ro; Str Cojocarilor 1; dm/d/tr 50/140/180 lei; pW)
This cosy, family-run place is a calm haven outside the citadel, with a friendly welcome. Dorm rooms are well maintained and have lockers, private rooms are homely, and there’s a shared kitchen including free tea and coffee. Breakfast costs 20 lei.
Casa SaseascaGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0265-772 400; www.casasaseasca.com; Piaţa Cetăţii 12; s/d from 140/154 lei; W)
Casa Saseasca houses nine rooms with traditionally painted Saxon furniture and widescreen views of the nearby square. There's an inviting courtyard out back and a terraced restaurant at the front. Excellent value. Breakfast not included.
Burg HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0265-778 489; www.burghostel.ro; Str Bastionului 4-6; dm 45 lei, s/d 90/110 lei, without bathroom 85/100 lei; Ws)
A great budget choice without compromising on charm, Burg Hostel has spacious dorms (with handy touches like plug sockets close to beds). Common areas have chandeliers made from old cartwheels, ceramic lamps, vaulted ceilings and other rustic touches. Staff are friendly and there’s a relaxing courtyard cafe. Breakfast not included, but you can buy meals from the cafe.
Hotel GiaHOTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0722-490 003; www.hotelgia.ro; Str Libertăţii 41; s/d/tr 90/110/140 lei; piW)
Spacious and chic rooms are frilled with satin and floral decorations, each with comfortable beds and mini-fridges. Barely 100m from the train station, Gia is an excellent choice for late arrivals or early starts.
Hotel SighişoaraHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0265
-771 000; www.sighisoarahotels.ro; Str Şcolii 4-6; d/ste from 205/340 lei; pW)
Sighişoara lost many of its venerable buildings to a 17th-century fire, but this 1502 mansion survived. Though its 32 rooms (all with en suites) are modern and the hotel boasts a trim spa with sauna and jacuzzi and a decent restaurant ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0265-771 000; www.sighisoarahotels.ro; Str Şcolii 4-6; mains 25 lei), this cavernous place has retained a heritage feel thanks to stained-glass windows and old frescoes.
Pensiunea LegendaGUESTHOUSE$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0748-694 368; www.legenda.ro; Str Bastionului 8; r €26-39; W)
The owners of this historic guesthouse whisper that Vlad Țepeș once wooed a beautiful young woman within these walls, a myth that will either charm or chill you. All five rooms at this well-run guesthouse have snug beds and occasional vampiric twists like black chandeliers and dungeon-like doors. Breakfast not included.
Casa WagnerHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0265-506 014, 0744-388 321; www.casa-wagner.com; Piaţa Cetăţii 7; r 178-288 lei; W)
This appealing 16th-century hotel has 32 rooms spread across three buildings. Think pastel-coloured walls, antique furniture and tasteful rugs. The rooms in the eaves are smaller though still cosy.
oCasa BarocăGUESTHOUSE$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0365-424 929, 0742-512 711; http://casa-baroca.ro; Str Cositorarilor 9; r €120-160; W)