Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria

by Lonely Planet

  Meanwhile in the centre of the old town, guarding over Piața Mică, is the Council Tower (Turnul Sfatului; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piaţa Mică; 2 lei; h10am-8pm). It was first built in the 13th century and refortified in the 16th.

  2Activities

  Carpathian Travel Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0740-843 678; www.carpathian-travel-center.com; Piaţa Mare 12; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat May-Oct) offers city tours as well as hiking and cycling trips in the surrounding countryside.

  zFestivals & Events

  Sibiu Jazz FestivalMUSIC

  (www.sibiujazz.ro; hMay)

  Many consider Sibiu to be Romania's jazz capital. During this spring festival, the town is awash in smouldering sounds: open-air jazz parades, jam sessions and performances in intimate venues.

  International Theatre FestivalTHEATRE

  (www.sibfest.ro; hJun)

  This 10-day festival is the most prominent annual performing arts event in Romania, with 70 countries involved.

  International Opera Music FestivalPERFORMING ARTS

  (www.filarmonicasibiu.ro; hmid-Sep)

  Welcoming a host of international acts, this popular festival is staged in September.

  International Astra Film FestivalFILM

  (%0269-202 430; www.astrafilm.ro; hmid-Oct)

  Since 1993 this film festival has given a spotlight to Eastern European and Romanian documentary filmmakers.

  4Sleeping

  Sibiu has a sophisticated range of digs: boutique guesthouses in medieval buildings, palatial hotels, and even hostels with a touch of elegance. Beyond the central squares, homely pensions are dotted along Sibiu’s residential streets. Book well ahead for summer weekends and when festivals are on.

  PanGeeaHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0369-801 232; www.sibiuhostel.ro; Str Avram Iancu 4; 6-/8-bed dm 50/48 lei, d 120 lei; W)

  Psychedelic decorations muddle alongside baroque-style furnishings at this unique, welcoming hostel. Six- and eight-bed dorms are comfortable, while essentials such as the shared kitchen, laundry (free) and wi-fi function nicely.

  Don't miss the fabulously colourful bar, Geea Caffe.

  Welt KulturHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-700 704; www.weltkultur.ro; Str Nicolea Bălcescu 13; dm 45-53 lei, d from 137 lei; aiW)

  Almost too chic to be dubbed a hostel, Welt has elegant wrought-iron bunks in its spotless four-, six- and eight-bed dorms (one is women-only). Meanwhile doubles are plain but easily as comfortable as Sibiu's pricier midranges. The best rooms face the street: they have more light and better views. There are lockers and a friendly chill-out room.

  Old Town HostelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-216 445; www.hostelsibiu.ro; Piaţa Mică 26; dm/d 50/150 lei; W)

  Though housed in a 450-year-old building, the dorms and private rooms at Old Town Hostel are crisp and modern, with views of the square that deserve a far steeper price tag. Benefits include a welcome drink, lockers, free tea and coffee and laundry facilities; plus the cheery staff can help arrange car and bike hire. Breakfast is an extra 5 lei.

  Pensiunea ElaPENSION$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-215 197; www.ela-hotels.ro; Str Nouă 43; s/d/tr 110/130/180 lei; W)

  Down a quiet street in a 17th-century building, this homely pension has eight basic rooms with a retro feel. The flower-filled courtyard, complete with wagon wheels, completes the rustic air, and owner Ela is a genial host. There are larger rooms designed for families, and a small children's playground.

  The CouncilBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0369-452 524; www.thecouncil.ro; Piaţa Mică 31; s/d/apt from €50/55/109; aW)

  Tapping into Sibiu's medieval lifeblood, this opulent hotel occupies a 14th-century hall in the heart of the old town. Individually designed rooms are equipped with desks, security safes and plenty of contemporary polish, but there are aristocratic touches like crimson throws, bare wooden rafters and Turkish-style rugs.

  Am RingHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-206 499; www.amringhotel.ro; Piaţa Mare 14; s/d/ste 250/290/390 lei; aW)

  Centrally located and decorated in a smorgasbord of styles, this is Sibiu's most lavish place to sleep. From the vaulted brick dining room to bedrooms styled with original wooden beams, throne-like chairs and baroque touches like gold candelabra, Am Ring exudes old-world elegance.

  Apartament DealuluiAPARTMENT$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0741-179 800; Str Dealului 21; 1-/2-bed apt from 160/180 lei; paW)

  These modern, if occasionally bare, apartments have gleaming kitchens and bathrooms, 700m southwest of Sibiu's old town. The excellent breakfast spread, with eggs, cold meats, bread and jam brought right to your apartment, is a huge bonus.

  Casa LuxemburgHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-216 854; www.casaluxemburg.ro; Piaţa Mică 16; s/d/tr from 290/320/370 lei; W)

  Rooms with a clean, classic design are ornamented with Saxon-style paintwork and pine furniture at this eager-to-please hotel in the centre. Staff can help arrange bike and car rental, and they can advise on where to park your car.

  Hotel Împăratul RomanilorHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-216 500; www.imparatulromanilor.ro; Str Nicolae Bălcescu 2-4; s/d/ste from 240/315/365 lei; pWs)

  If a baroque bedroom seems a fitting place to sleep in grand Sibiu, this hotel is sure to please. One hundred plush rooms fill the 1895 building (though some feel a little worn), and there's a sauna, gym and indoor pool.

  5Eating

  Foodies will find many, many excuses to linger in Sibiu, from authentic Italian diners to rustic Romanian cuisine. Restaurants around the main square get busy, and some of the best places are only a staircase or alley away from the centre.

  oKulinariumROMANIAN, EUROPEAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0721-506 070; www.kulinarium.ro; Piața Mică 12; mains 25-35 lei; hnoon-midnight)

  Fresh, well-presented Italy- and France-leaning cuisine, using seasonal ingredients, graces plates at Kulinarium. The restaurant has an intimate, casual feel, with roughly painted stone walls and dangling modern lampshades. Choose from smoky Austrian sausages, spinach soup with quail eggs, rare-beef salad, trout with polenta or well-executed pasta dishes.

  oCrama Sibiul VechiROMANIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-210 461; www.sibiulvechi.ro; Str Papiu-Ilarian 3; mains 25-30 lei; h11am-10pm)

  Hidden in an old wine cellar, this is the most evocative restaurant in Sibiu. Explore Romanian fare such as cheese croquettes, minced meatballs and peasant's stew with polenta. Show up early, or reserve ahead; it's very popular.

  MaxITALIAN$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-233 003; www.max-restaurant.ro; Str Ocnei 22; mains 20-35 lei; hnoon-midnight)

  Locals' favourite Italian food is served within a restored, wood-shuttered 14th-century house, on a quiet street north of the old town. The Italian owner has perfected a menu spanning porcini-stuffed chicken, authentic tagliatelle al ragù, and gorgonzola gnocchi.

  Crama SibianăROMANIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0729-614 260; Piața Mică 31; mains 26-30 lei; hnoon-midnight)

  Juicy seasoned ribs, meat-stuffed sarmale (cabbage rolls) topped with duck and sour cream, and outdoor tables looking right onto Piața Mică: this is a satisfying and popular spot, with food to compensate for the sluggish service.

  WeinkellerROMANIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-210 319; www.weinkeller.ro; Str Turnului 2; mains 20-30 lei; hnoon-midnight)

  Mixing traditional Romanian mains such as stuffed cabbage leaves with Austro-Hungarian-influenced fare like Tafelspitz (boiled beef) and goulash, this romantic wine cellar and restaurant is the best date spot in Sibiu.

  PasajBISTRO$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0369-437 687; Str Turnului 3A; mains 20-25 lei; h11am-11pm Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; Wv)

  At the foot of Pasajul Scărilor, the stairs between Sibiu's upper and lower town, this intimate Italian diner serves perfect pizzas alongside Romanian soups and sa
lads. Service is attentive, and the low-lit interior and wrought-iron tables outside are equally atmospheric.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  Piaţa Mică and Str Nicolae Bălcescu are excellent places to start on a night out, though even at weekends the outdoor drinking scene quietens down shortly after midnight. Seek out cellar bars and cafes secreted away on upper floors to keep the party going later.

  Music PubBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0369-448 326; www.musicpubsibiu.ro; Piaţa Mică 23; h8am-3am Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun)

  Skip down the graffitied corridor and rub your eyes in astonishment as a cellar bar and airy verandah opens up. One of the merriest spots in town, Music Pub sparkles with straw lamps and little candles, while '90s dance and rock plays on. There's table service, it's friendly, and there's occasional live music: a surefire winning night out.

  EspresseeCOFFEE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Alexandru Dimitrie Xenopol 1; h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun)

  One of a new slew of upmarket coffee places, Espressee prepares its brews with loving care, and it shows. Decadent iced coffees are a meal in themselves; try the Snickers, sprinkled with peanuts, caramel syrup and whipped cream.

  Geea CaffeBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Avram Iancu 4; h5pm-midnight Wed-Mon)

  Adjoining the whimsical PanGeea hostel, this bar was decorated with animal skulls, vintage furniture and mind-bending paintings by the owner's artist husband. It's an eclectic setting for a cocktail, and frequented by plenty of travellers.

  Cafe WienCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-223 223; www.cafewien.ro; Piața Huet 4; h10am-2am Mon, 9am-2am Tue-Sun; W)

  There's no more genteel Viennese tradition than Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake), and Cafe Wien has just the right blend of refinement and relaxation to accompany your strudel or Sachertorte (chocolate cake).

  Imperium ClubBAR

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Nicolae Bălcescu 24; h9am-3am)

  Cosy barfly joint with vampish vaulted ceilings, dimly lit booths for canoodling, great cocktails (15 to 18 lei) and occasional live acts and screenings of sports events.

  3Entertainment

  Agenţia de Teatrală ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Nicolae Bălcescu 17; h11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat) Sells tickets for concerts and events.

  State PhilharmonicCLASSICAL MUSIC

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.filarmonicasibiu.ro; Str Cetăţii 3-5; tickets 16-30 lei; hbox office noon-4pm Mon-Fri)

  Founded in 1949, this has played a key role in maintaining Sibiu’s prestige as a main cultural centre of Transylvania. It's the key venue for performances at the annual opera festival.

  7Shopping

  Gossip TreeCLOTHING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0742-985 489; www.facebook.com/GossipTreeBoutique; Str Turnului 2; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat)

  Hand-stitched kitten ears, painted shoes and bags made from repurposed floppy discs… The imaginations of over 40 Romanian designers have run riot, filling this little boutique with inventive accessories and clothing you won't find anywhere else.

  Librăria HumanitasBOOKS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Nicolae Bălcescu 16; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)

  Buy road maps for Romania and other European countries, pick up some hiking maps, or grab a drink in the cavernous cafe attached.

  Souvenir MarketARTS & CRAFTS

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Str Papiu-Ilarian & Str Nicolae Bălcescu; hhours variable)

  On weekends and in high summer, this small pop-up souvenir market peddles jewellery, fridge magnets and other trinkets.

  8Information

  ATMs are located all over the centre as well as in most hotels. Banca Comercială Română ( GOOGLE MAP ; Str Nicolae Bălcescu 1; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) is one of several banks with ATMs along Str Nicolae Bălcescu.

  FarmasibPHARMACY

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-217 897; Str Nicolae Bălcescu 53; h7am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat & Sun)

  Sells toiletries and over-the-counter medicine.

  Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-208 913; www.turism.sibiu.ro; Piaţa Mare 2; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr)

  Based at the town hall; staff can offer free maps and plenty of local transport advice.

  8Getting There & Away

  Air

  Sibiu International Airport (SBZ; GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-253 135; www.sibiuairport.ro; Șoseaua Alba Iulia 73) is 5km west of the city centre.

  Austrian Airlines (%0256-490 397; www.austrian.com) Connects Vienna and Sibiu through daily flights.

  Blue Air (%UK +44 (0)151 230 1590; www.blueair-web.com) Offers direct flights to Stuttgart (three weekly).

  Tarom ( GOOGLE MAP ; %call centre 021-204 6464; www.tarom.ro; hcall centre 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) Has direct flights to Munich and Vienna.

  WizzAir (%premium rate 0903-760 105; www.wizzair.com) Budget airline connecting Sibiu with European destinations including London Luton (four weekly), Madrid (two weekly) and Dortmund (two weekly).

  Bus

  The main bus station (Autogara Sibiu; GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-217 757; www.autogari.ro; Piaţa 1 Decembrie 1918) is opposite the train station; the other station, bus station Q7 (Autogara Q7; GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-232 826; Str Școala de Înot), is southwest of central Sibiu. Bus and maxitaxi services reach the following destinations. Ask locally, or look on www.autogari.ro, to see which station your service leaves from (hit the 'vezi detalii' button after making your search).

  Services run to Alba Iulia (20 lei, one to 1½ hours, almost hourly), Braşov (28 lei, 2½ to three hours, 12 daily), Bucharest (50 to 55 lei, 4½ hours, 10 daily), Cluj-Napoca (35 lei, 3½ to 4½ hours, 17 daily), Deva (30 lei, two to 2½ hours, eight daily), Timişoara (60 to 65 lei, 4½ to six hours, seven daily) and Târgu Mureş (20 to 28 lei, 2½ to 3½ hours, six daily).

  Maxitaxis to Cisnădie (7 lei, 25 minutes) leave half-hourly from the main bus station. Another microbus heads west five times daily, stopping in Sălişte (9 lei, one hour), 4km from Sibiel, and on to Jina (14 lei, 2½ hours).

  AEurolines (www.eurolines.ro) sells tickets to many European destinations, including Vienna and Budapest.

  Train

  Sibiu's train station (Gara Sibiu; GOOGLE MAP ; %0269-211 139; www.cfrcalatori.ro; Piața 1 Decembrie 1918, 6) has direct trains to Braşov (40 lei, three hours, nine daily), Bucharest (61 lei, six hours, four daily; more via Braşov) and Timişoara (61 lei, 6½ hours, two daily; more via Arad).

  Mostly indirect services reach Cluj-Napoca (56 lei, five hours, 12 daily) and Sighişoara (9 to 17 lei, three hours, six daily). Change at Copşa Mică or Vințu de Jos for the former, and Copşa Mică or Mediaş for the latter. For Alba Iulia (11 to 26 lei, 2½ hours), there are two direct; otherwise change at Vinţu de Jos.

  The station has self-service luggage storage (6 lei per day) available round the clock.

  8Getting Around

  Trolleybus 1 connects the train station with the centre, but it’s only a 500m walk along Str General Magheru to get there by foot. Bus 11 runs between central Sibiu and the airport.

  There’s a taxi stand at the west end of Str Nicolae Bălcescu. To order a taxi, dial 0269-953 from a local phone or 0724-333 953.

  Car Rental

  Autonom ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0749-151 037; www.autonom.com; Str Nicolae Bălcescu 1-3) Typically has the best rates, from €39 per day (or from €28 for long rentals). Also has an office at Sibiu Airport.

  Around Sibiu

  Hypnotised by Sibiu's old town, smart dining scene and heady nightlife, many visitors neglect to explore its surroundings. Only a few kilometres south of Sibiu, city hubbub melts into the Transylvania of centuries past. Villages in the so-called Mărginimea Sibiului (‘borders of Sibiu’) have preserved traditional farming methods – look out for horses and carts – and crafts such as woodwork and icon-painting continue to thrive.

  Sibiel's glass icons are an especially love
ly example of the region's handicrafts; meanwhile local ethnographic museums lovingly present fine embroidery and wood-carvings. Hikers will also find joy in the numerous trails extending from Păltiniş.

  Cisnădie & Răşinari

  Cisnădie is worth a stop for its fortified 15th-century Fortified Church (Biserica Evanghelică Fortificată; GOOGLE MAP ; www.ekh.ro; adult/student 7/4 lei; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun). A museum of communism, with English translations, is found on the 1st floor of the citadel walls. Take route 106C south from Sibiu for 11km to reach the church.

  Almost in the skirts of the Cindrel Mountains and 12km south of Sibiu, Răşinari is peppered with faded facades and has a little Ethnographic Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; Str Octavian Goga 152, Rășinari; 4 lei; h9am-4pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun) (west of the centre, follow the brown sign, then take the first left).