If you're arriving by car and want to dip in and out of Retezat National Park without resorting to barebones hiking huts, rooms at Pensiunea Iris have a dash more comfort.
8Information
You can buy maps from the park administration centre. Bel Alpin's 1:50,000 Retezat Mountains map ships internationally from numerous online retailers.
Retezat Park Administration Centre Buy hiking maps and ask for trail advice at the official (and helpful) information centre for Retezat National Park. It's on the road between Mălăiești and Nucșoara.
Tourist Information Point ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0254-770 273; www.en.hateg-turism.ro; cnr Str Horea & Str Florilor, Haţeg; h9am-5pm summer, from 10am winter) Get up to speed on local transport, accommodation and cultural attractions at this information centre in Haţeg.
8Getting There & Away
Exploring the Retezat Mountains is easiest if you’re a driver, hardened hiker, or a little of both. By car, the park’s northern gateway Haţeg is on the E79 south from Deva and Hunedoara. Alternatively Subcetate train station, 4km east of Haţeg, is served by daily direct trains from Cluj-Napoca (60 lei, 4½ hours).
Northern Transylvania
Raw mountainscapes and a bite of Bram Stoker are the main reasons to linger in northern Transylvania, though city chic isn’t far behind. Just south of Maramureș, the region’s heart is Cluj-Napoca: Romania’s second city is criminally underrated, and chock full of bars and galleries. The challenging hiking terrain of the Apuseni Mountains ripples westward.
Northeast of Cluj, passing the proud remains of Bánffy Castle, extends the perilous terrain of Bram Stoker’s imagination: Bistriţa and the Bârgău Valley, key locations in Dracula, each now boast a themed hotel. But the more rewarding travels here are timed for Untold or Electric Castle, two of the music festivals transforming this region into a musical hub.
Cluj-Napoca
Pop 324,500
Bohemian cafes, music festivals and vigorous nightlife are the soul of Cluj-Napoca, Romania's second-largest city. With increasing flight links to European cities, Cluj is welcoming more and more travellers, who usually shoot off to the Apuseni Mountains, Maramureş or more popular towns in southern Transylvania. But once arrived, first-time visitors inevitably lament their failure to allow enough time in Cluj.
Don’t make the same mistake. Start with the architecture, ranging from Romania’s second-largest Gothic church to baroque buildings and medieval towers. Dip into galleries and gardens. And allow at least one lazy morning to recover from Cluj’s fiery nightlife. The city, teeming with students and artists, is by turns bookish and bawdy – intrigue is guaranteed.
Central Cluj-Napoca
1Sights
1Ethnographic Museum of TransylvaniaB3
2Hungarian CemeteryC5
3Hungarian Reformed ChurchD4
4Matthias Corvinus HouseB3
5National Art MuseumC3
6National History Museum of TransylvaniaB3
7Pharmacy History CollectionB3
8St Michael's ChurchB3
9Statue of Matthias CorvinusB3
2Activities, Courses & Tours
10Cluj Guided ToursB3
4Sleeping
11Capitolina City ChicA5
12Fullton HotelB3
13Lol & LolaA5
14Retro HostelB4
15Zen HostelD3
5Eating
16Bistro VienaB3
17Bricks – (M)eating Point RestaurantB1
18CaminoB2
19Mátyás ÉtteremC3
20Nuka BistroB3
Restaurant Matei CorvinB3
21RoataA3
22SamsaraA1
6Drinking & Nightlife
23Caffe MeronB4
24Delirio Gay ClubC3
25InsomniaB4
26Irish & Music PubB1
27Joben BistroD4
28RootsC3
29Tabiet CafeB3
3Entertainment
30Flying CircusC3
31National TheatreD3
32State PhilharmonicB4
1Sights
Old Town
From the north edge of Piaţa Unirii, follow Strada Matei Corvin into a cobbled neighbourhood of baroque churches, historic houses and quaint restaurants. The monuments and museum of Piaţa Muzeului are just north of here.
oSt Michael’s ChurchCHURCH
(Biserica Sfantul Mihail; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-592 089; Piața Unirii; h8am-6pm)
The showpiece of Piaţa Unirii is 14th- and 15th-century St Michael’s, the second biggest Gothic church in Romania (after Braşov’s Black Church). Its neo-Gothic clocktower (1859) towers 80m high, while original Gothic features – such as the 1444 front portal – can still be admired. Inside, soaring rib vaults lift the gaze towards fading frescoes.
Statue of Matthias CorvinusSTATUE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piața Unirii)
Hogging the limelight in front of St Michael’s Church is a bulky 1902 statue of horseback Matthias Corvinus, the famous 15th-century Hungarian king.
Pharmacy History CollectionMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piața Unirii 28; adult/child 6/3 lei; h10am-4pm Mon-Wed & Fri, noon-6pm Thu)
Cluj-Napoca’s oldest pharmacy building holds an intriguing collection of medical miscellany. ‘Crab eyes’, skulls, and powdered mummy are just a few of the cures on display in these antique-filled rooms. The prettiest is the Officina, a polished room with dark filigree swirling around its walls. You’ll also learn that the 18th-century recipe for a love potion sounds suspiciously like mulled wine…
It's just past the northeast corner of the square, towards Str Regele Ferdinand I.
Hungarian Reformed ChurchCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Mihail Kogălniceanu; h9am-5pm)
Commissioned by the king of Hungary, Matthias Corvinus, in 1486, this church took more than 20 years to complete. Its interior seems spare at first glance, but the carved wooden seats display grand Hungarian heraldry, and there’s a rococo red-and-green church organ (1765).
Matthias Corvinus HouseNOTABLE BUILDING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Str Matei Corvin & Str Pușcariu)
A block south of the National History Museum is the birthplace of Matthias Corvinus, a 15th-century Hungarian king. This Gothic building is now the library of Cluj university’s Faculty of Arts.
National Art MuseumGALLERY
(Muzeul de Arta; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-596 952; www.macluj.ro; Piaţa Unirii 30; adult/student 8/2 lei; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun)
The permanent collection of this sizeable gallery has creaky rooms featuring 18th- and 19th-century art, mostly portraits of nobles and their bewigged wives, plus landscapes and religious icons. It’s a pleasant collection, though not unmissable. The reason to visit is the stately setting within baroque Bánffy Palace, which hosted Habsburg Emperor Franz Joseph I.
National History Museum of TransylvaniaMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Constantin Daicoviciu 1; adult/child 6/3 lei; hnoon-6pm Wed, 10am-4pm Tue & Thu-Sun)
Within this museum of regional history you’ll discover Dacian artefacts, mostly from Sarmizegetusa’s archaeological sites, including glass blow pipes, blacksmithing tools, reconstructed urns and silver bracelets. English information is scant, but there are a few virtual reality games aimed at children, to immerse you in historic Romanian dwellings (if you can get them to work). The museum is on the 2nd floor.
Ethnographic Museum of TransylvaniaMUSEUM
(Muzeul Etnografic al Transilvaniei; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.muzeul-etnografic.ro; Str Memorandumului 21; adult 6 lei, student 3 lei, child free; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun)
On the upper floor of a renovated neo-Gothic building, dating to the 16th century, find well-tended exhibitions on Romanian peasant life throughout the centuries. You’ll see beeswax presses and whey-boiling vats, admire colourful ceramics, and be able to delight friends and family with trivia about Romanian embroidery long after.
Student Quarter
A bookish, cafe
-lined neighbourhood beloved of students spreads southwest of the centre, along Strada Universității and along the lanes flowing west of here. There are literary haunts, superb coffee shops and bohemian open-air bars. It's quieter in summer.
Alexandru Borza Botanic GardensGARDENS
( GOOGLE MAP ; Str Republicii 42; adult/child 10/5 lei; h8am-8pm summer, 9am-6pm winter, museum 8am-3pm Mon-Fri)
These wonderfully relaxing gardens comprise rockeries, neoclassical statues peeping from tangles of rose, and a Japanese-style garden with a crimson bridge spanning a turtle pond. At the heart of the gardens, find the Botanical Museum (Muzeul Botanic), exhibiting vegetal curios from bottled fruits to fern fossils.
Hungarian CemeteryCEMETERY
(Házsongárdi Temető; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Matei Basarab; hdawn-dusk)
Founded in the 16th century, this stately cemetery is a memorable place to stroll among elegant tombs and mausoleums of Transylvanian poets and composers, while crows call from the surrounding trees. Enter it downhill from Str Avram Iancu, south of the main square.
Outside the Centre
oParcul Etnografic Romulus VuiaMUSEUM, PARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.muzeul-etnografic.ro; Aleea Muzeului Etnografic; adult/child 6/3 lei; h10am to 6pm summer, 9am to 4pm winter)
Traditional architecture from around Romania has been faithfully reassembled at this open-air museum, 5km northwest of central Cluj. Most impressive is the Cizer Church; get the attention of a caretaker to allow you inside to view frescoes covering its wooden interior.
oFabrica de PensuleARTS CENTRE
(Paintbrush Factory; GOOGLE MAP ; %0727-169 569; www.fabricadepensule.ro; Str Henri Barbusse 59-61; htours 4-8pm Mon-Fri)F
More of a living, breathing creative space than a gallery, Fabrica de Pensule teems with just-made artwork by local and foreign creators who use this former paintbrush factory as a studio. Visits are by free guided tour, and depending on when you visit you’ll spy anything from haunting urban photography to surreal Icelandic ceramics. Depending on how you like your art, you’ll either adore visiting this artistic community in a post-industrial setting, or be bemused by the work-in-progress art within boxy gallery spaces.
2Activities
Cluj-Napoca is a popular centre for caving and mountain-biking enthusiasts, with the Apuseni Mountains to the southwest offering a wealth of caves and trails. Alongside regular operators, Retro Hostel also has a travel agency that can organise short and long tours to Turda salt mine, Sibiu, the Apuseni Mountains, and much more.
Green Mountain HolidaysHIKING
(%0744-637 227; www.greenmountainholidays.ro)S
This terrific ecotourism organisation is recommended for an environmentally friendly, activity-filled week. Check its website for caving, hiking and biking tours in the Apuseni Mountains with guides, transport, meals and accommodation, as well as self-guided trips.
Cluj Guided ToursWALKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/clujguidedtours; Piața Unirii; h6pm daily May-Oct)F
Informative English-language walking tours of Cluj begin at the Matthias Corvinus statue on Piața Unirii. The walks are led by volunteers, though tips are welcome at the end. They’re roughly two hours long and cover the major old town sights.
zFestivals & Events
Transilvania International Film FestivalFILM
(www.tiff.ro; hearly–mid-Jun)
International and local movie screenings take place in dozens of locations around Cluj-Napoca, from major cinemas to enchanting gardens, for this celebration of the silver screen. Browse schedules on the website well ahead of time, or buy a TIFF Card (300 lei) and you can settle in for as many as 35 movies.
oUntold FestivalMUSIC
(www.untold.com; hearly Aug)
Romania's largest music festival has been scooping up awards since it began in 2015. An explosive mix of dubstep, house and EDM takes to the stage over four euphoric days. Book tickets, and accommodation in Cluj, well ahead of time – this is a local favourite rapidly gathering international praise.
4Sleeping
A slew of excellent hostels has boosted Cluj-Napoca's budget accommodation scene in recent years. There are comfy guesthouses and a couple of standout boutique hotels, and only a few drab, business-focused hotels to avoid. Strada Republicii, extending along the botanic gardens, has plenty of family-run pensions.
oYouthink HostelHOSTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0745-202 911; www.youthinkhostel.com; Str Republicii 74; dm/d €15/35; pW)S
A labour-of-love restoration project has transformed a 1920 building, abandoned for a decade, into something between a hostel and an ecotourism retreat. Original wood beams, fireplace and hardwood floors retain the building's early-20th-century splendour, while the seven- and eight-bed dorms are clean and modern. Aptly for such a cheery and eco-conscious hostel, you'll be greeted by friendly dogs and a cat.
Zen HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.zenboutiquehostel.ro; B-dul Eroilor 47; dm/d from 60/160 lei; iW)
Sparkling stained-glass and swaying hammocks set the pace of this hostel haven at the eastern end of B-dul Eroilor. All the essentials are here – lockers, maps, laundry facilities (15 lei), kitchen – plus there's a mini-library and plenty of colourful nooks and crannies to chill in. Breakfast not included.
Retro HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-450 452; www.retro.ro; Str Potaissa 13; incl breakfast dm/s/d without bathroom 55/100/150 lei, s/d 120/170 lei; iW)
The modern-nostalgic blend at Retro Hostel works like a charm. Minimalist murals of headscarf-clad women dance across its corridors, while elsewhere you can spy original medieval stone walls. Dorms and private rooms are nicely maintained, decorated in cooling shades of blue, but certain dorms are not for tall travellers. The homecooked breakfasts, included in the price, are a highlight.
oLol & LolaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-450 498; www.loletlolahotel.ro; Str Neagră 9; s/d €67/79; paW)
This enjoyably zany hotel has a rainbow of individually styled rooms to choose from, with themes ranging from Hollywood, ballet, and a rock ‘n’ roll room with vinyl and guitars. It’s ultra-modern with friendly service.
Pensiunea JuniorPENSION$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-432 028; www.pensiune-junior.ro; Str Câii Ferate 12; d 160 lei; pW)
Far superior to the average train-station-skirting hotel, Junior has immaculately clean bathrooms adjoining its modern double rooms with floral trimmings. Worth a longer stay than just an overnight before an early train journey (the terminal is 300m away).
Hotel ConfortHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-598 410; www.hotelconfort.ro; Calea Turzii 48; s/d/ste 200/220/255 lei; paW)
Huge rooms with wooden floors and fuzzy rugs are accented with flower arrangements and arty prints at this chic hotel. Four rooms have balconies, and most have big windows and billowy drapes. It’s a car-friendly location, a 15-minute walk outside central Cluj. Parking is free but limited; ask ahead. Breakfast is an extra 12 lei.
Fullton HotelHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0729-999 444; www.fullton.ro; Str Sextil Puşcariu 10; s 195-235 lei, d 215-250 lei; aW)
This grey-green hotel has a superb location in the old town, and its furnishings continue the old-timey feel. 'Attic' and 'canopy' rooms are worth the higher price tag for their wood beams and billowing four-poster beds.
Capitolina City ChicBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-450 490; www.hotel-capitolina.ro; Str Victor Babeș 35; d €86-97; paW)
Breezy design touches such as chandeliers, flowing drapes and literary quotes lend an upbeat feel to this boutique hotel, 400m west of the botanical gardens. The individually decorated rooms are light-filled, colourful and modern, with spotless marble bathrooms; the larger ones have cosy couches to slump in.
5Eating
Cluj's varied restaurant scene can satisfy every taste, from hole-in-the-wall coffee spots, hearty Hungarian resta
urants, polished bistros and all-vegetarian cafes. Piaţa Unirii and the old town have plenty of choice.
One warming local dish is varză a la Cluj, layers of cabbage, minced pork and soured cream.
Bistro VienaDESSERTS, AUSTRIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0757-082 590; www.bistroviena.ro; Str Matei Corvin 3; dessert 10 lei; h9am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)
Channelling Austria's sweet tooth and coffee culture, this cafe with outdoor seating has tempting desserts including Sachertorte, strudels and poppyseed dumplings, with a range of refreshing cocktails (13 lei) if caffeine simply won't do. It's next door to Restaurant Matei Corvin.
oRoataROMANIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-592 022; www.restaurant-roata.ro; Str Alexandru Ciurea 6; mains 20-28 lei; hnoon-11pm; v)
Transylvanian cuisine just like granny made it, in an untouristed part of Cluj. Settle in beneath the vine-covered trellis in the outdoor area, and agonise between roasted pork ribs and pike with capers. Or go all out with a 'Transylvanian platter' for two (52 lei), with homemade sausages, meatballs, sheep's cheese, aubergine stew and spare elastic for when your pants snap (we wish).
Nuka BistroBURGERS$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0742-687 769; Piaţa Unirii 16; mains 21-28 lei; h8am-late)
Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 24