Choose from Vlad, Monroe or JFK burgers at this smart bistro (the count has chilli, while Marilyn is slathered with sweet caramelised onion). There's also a fine pan-European menu with good breakfasts, seafood and cakes. One of several elegant spots on the western side of Piaţa Unirii.
SamsaraVEGETARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0736-073 073; www.samsara.ro; Str Ștefan Ludwig Roth 5; mains 21-26 lei; h11am-11pm; v)
Cluj’s hippie haven is this health-conscious veggie place with a convivial outdoor garden seating. Nibble brown-rice sushi and raw cakes with a few gulps of green smoothie as the ultimate antidote to heavy Romanian cuisine. There are vegan options too.
CaminoINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0749-200 117; Piaţa Muzeului 4; mains 20-30 lei; h9am-midnight; W)
This boho restaurant has a raffish charm, its peeling interior decked in candelabra and threadbare rugs, and outdoor seating spilling into monumental Piaţa Muzeului. Italian, Spanish and Indian dishes grace the menu. Ideal for solo book-reading over a pressed lemonade or alfresco tapas for two.
Restaurant Matei CorvinROMANIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-597 496; Str Matei Corvin 3; mains 16-42 lei; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat)
Sit down at one of the tables tumbling onto the stony pedestrian lane, and tuck in to Transylvanian cuisine such as paprika chicken with mămăligă (cornmeal) and big crunchy salads on the side.
Bricks – (M)eating Point RestaurantSTEAK$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0364-730 615; www.bricksrestaurant.ro; Str Horea 2; mains 33-58 lei; h11am-11pm; aW)
Jazz flows right along with the cocktails at this chic steakhouse overhanging the river. Italian pasta dishes, burgers and barbecued meats dominate the menu, alongside a couple of vegetarian options and plump desserts like cottage-cheese pancakes. Lunch specials (15 lei) offer the best value.
Mátyás ÉtteremHUNGARIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-406 523; www.hotelagape.ro; Str Iuliu Maniu 6; mains 25-50 lei; hnoon-11pm)
Based at the Hotel Agape, rustically painted wooden walls and finely carved furniture complement a menu of Hungarian dishes with a twist, such as Marmite goulash and meat stew with rosehip jam. Polish it off with cheesecakes, pancakes and a lavish list of local wines.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The clubs don't rival Bucharest, but Cluj-Napoca uses its smaller scene to great advantage: bars and venues are geared towards culture, music and good conversation, and nightclubs tend to be fun-loving and unpretentious, without onerous dress codes. Cafe-bars within cavernous cellars and repurposed historic buildings ooze charm. Many of the best bars are in the student quarter, and along B-dul Eroilor and Piața Unirii.
InsomniaBAR, BEER GARDEN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.insomniacafe.ro; Str Universităţii 2; h9am-1am Mon-Fri, 11am-1am Sat & Sun)
Squeezed into a narrow courtyard, a jaunty beer garden adjoins this zanily decorated bohemian cafe. Insomnia is one of a slew of bars catering to Cluj's arty crowd (which seems to be half the city) within the student quarter.
RootsCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Eroilor 4; h7.30am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11.30pm Sat, to 5pm Sun)
Competition for Cluj’s best brew is stiff, but Roots’ silky coffee is the front runner. Staff are as friendly as the flat whites are smooth.
oJoben BistroCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jobenbistro.ro; Str Avram Iancu 29; h8am-2am Mon-Thu, noon-2am Fri-Sun; W)
This steampunk cafe will lubricate the gears of any traveller with a penchant for Victoriana. Aside from the fantasy decor, with skull designs, taxidermied deer heads and copper pipes on bare brick walls, it's a laid-back place to nurse a lavender-infused lemonade or perhaps the potent 'Drunky Hot Chocolate'.
Irish & Music PubBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0729-947 133; www.irishmusicpub.ro; Str Horea 5; h10am-4am Mon-Sat, 6pm-4am Sun)
Before you flee from the hackneyed 'Irish pub abroad' theme, know that this subterranean place has plenty of atmosphere resounding from its cavernous brick walls, plus a menu of steak sandwiches and veggie-friendly bar snacks to line your stomach.
Delirio Gay ClubGAY & LESBIAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.delirio.ro; B-dul 21 Decembrie 1989, 8; h6-11pm Sun-Wed, to 5am Thu, 11pm-5am Fri & Sat)
Cluj's only LGBT club is a laid-back bar on weeknights, and a vodka-fuelled, scantily-clad late-night party at weekends. Boys are banned between 11pm and 5am on Thursday for the weekly ladies' night.
Caffe MeronCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.caffemeron.com; Str Napoca 3; h8am-10pm)
While this cafe is almost a little too trendy, with its polished tables and trance soundtrack, the coffee is to die for.
Tabiet CafeCAFE, BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Virgil Fulicea 2; h7am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, 10am-10pm Sun)
Sip good coffee and great cocktails in Tabiet's snug, stone-walled bar or on the terrace, which spills into the cobbled old town. It also serves piadina (stuffed flatbread) and other Italian-inspired fare.
3Entertainment
Zile şi Nopţi (www.zilesinopti.ro/cluj-napoca) and 24-Fun are biweekly entertainment listings (in Romanian).
Flying CircusCONCERT VENUE, CLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.flyingcircus.ro; Str Iuliu Maniu 2; entry before/after 1am 7/10 lei; h5pm-dawn)
Arrive around midnight to see this student-oriented club begin to swing. Punters come for the music rather than to pose, so check the theme before you rock up: events vary from doom metal to euphoric drum and bass. There's usually a free shot with the entry fee.
National TheatreTHEATRE
(Teatrul Naţional Lucian Blaga; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.teatrulnationalcluj.ro; Piaţa Ştefan cel Mare 2-4; tickets from 20 lei)
From Molière and Shakespeare through to modern drama, the Romanian language performances at the National Theatre are the slickest productions in town. Buy tickets at the nearby box office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 0264-595 363; Piaţa Ştefan cel Mare 14; h11am-2pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sun & 1 hour before performances).
The National Theatre was designed in the 19th century by the famed Habsburg architects Fellner and Helmer.
State PhilharmonicCLASSICAL MUSIC
(Filarmonica de Stat; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 0264-430 060; www.filarmonicatransilvania.ro; Piaţa Lucian Blaga 1-3; concerts adult/student from 25/13 lei)
Hear choirs, quartets and rousing orchestras at Transylvania's State Philharmonic Theatre.
8Information
The city is full of ATMs and banks that exchange currency. Banca Comercială Română ( GOOGLE MAP ; Str Gheorghe Bariţiu 10-12; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) is one of several banks and ATMs along busy Str Gheorghe Bariţiu.
Tourist Information OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-452 244; www.visitcluj.ro; B-dul Eroilor 6; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
Super-friendly office with free maps, thoughtful trekking advice, and tons of info on transport links, accommodation, events and more.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Cluj International Airport (CLJ; GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-307 500, 0264-416 702; www.airportcluj.ro; Str Traian Vuia 149) is 7km east of the old town. Buses 5 and 8 connect the airport with central Cluj (Piaţa Mihai Viteazul). Services are every 10 to 20 minutes between 5am and 10pm. The journey takes 30 minutes. The airport is served by numerous airlines.
Austrian Airlines (www.austrian.com) Services between Cluj and Vienna.
Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com) Sends daily flights to Munich.
Tarom (www.tarom.ro) Domestic flights between Cluj and Bucharest.
Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com) Links Cluj with İstanbul.
Wizz Air (www.wizzair.com) Budget carrier flies to London Luton, Paris Beauvais, Valencia, Tel Aviv, Barcelona, Cologne, Eindhoven and more.
Bus
Domestic and international bus services depart mostly from Bus Station 2 (Autogara 2, Autogara Beta; GOOGLE
MAP ; %0264-455 249; www.autogarabeta-cluj.ro; Str Giordano Bruno 1-3).The bus station is 350m northwest of the train station (take the overpass).
Domestic bus services include the following, usually departing from Bus Station 2.
Destination Cost (lei) Duration (hr) Frequency (daily)
Baia Mare 35-53 3 12
Bistriţa 20 2¼ 8
Braşov 35-65 4¾–5½ 4
Bucharest 70-90 9 6
Sibiu 30-35 3¼-4 almost hourly
Buses to Turda run both from a stop ( GOOGLE MAP ) at Piaţa Mihai Viteazu and Bus Station 2 (7 lei, 45 minutes, half-hourly).
Train
Trains from Cluj-Napoca's train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cfrcalatori.ro; Str Căii Ferate) reach the following destinations; routes are direct unless stated. The Agenţia de Voiaj CFR ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-432 001; Piaţa Mihai Viteazu 20; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri) sells domestic and international train tickets in advance. Left luggage service is available at the station.
Destination Cost (lei) Duration (hr) Frequency (daily)
Bistriţa 16 3 2 (more via Sărățel)
Braşov 62-75 6-8 6
Bucharest 78-87 10-11 5
Budapest 140 5 2
Huedin 6-15 ¾-1¼ 20
Iaşi 78 9½ 4
Oradea 38 2¼-4 14
Sibiu 46 4 1 (more via Vințu De Jos)
Sighişoara 52 4½ 4 (more via Teiuș)
Suceava 63 7 4
Târgu Mureş 12-23 2¼ 1 (via Aiud or Războieni)
Timişoara 63 5½–7½ 4 (more via Teiuș)
Zalău 33-38 4 1 (more via Jibou)
Turda
Pop 55,800
A breathtaking but bizarre salt mine reels visitors in to Turda, while the epic hiking terrain of Turda Gorge detains them a while longer. The town itself, featuring a pedestrianised square lined with Hapsburg facades, is a pleasant enough detour, though most people pop in on a day-trip from Cluj, 30km north.
Back in the days when salt was currency, Turda's salt-mining industry (dating back to the 13th century) made it a powerhouse. The main mine shut down in 1932, though it's a much-visited curiosity in its current form. Whether you're seeking amenities, hotels or food, life revolves around Turda’s central street, Str Republicii.
1Sights
Salt MineMINE
(Salina Turda; GOOGLE MAP ; %0364-260 940; www.salinaturda.eu; Str Aleea Durgaului 7; adult/child 20/10 lei, parking per car 5 lei; h9am-5pm, last entry at 4pm; p)
The meadowlands and chalky hills surrounding Turda have a secret underworld: a salt mine so impressive, it could be a supervillain’s lair. Walking along 900m of cave corridors, zebra-striped with salt and dirt, you’ll discover a chapel with a salt-encrusted Jesus and Mary; salt miners used to pray here before their shift. When you see the hefty 1881 extraction apparatus, you’ll understand why. Then descend into the most spectacular chamber, befitting a Bond nemesis. It’s a chilly 10°C to 12°C, so wear layers.
WORTH A TRIP
TURDA GORGE
Precipitous Turda Gorge (Cheile Turzii; GOOGLE MAP ; www.turism-cheile-turzii.ro; May-Sep adult/child 4/2 lei) lies 8km west of town (as the crow flies), and it makes a stunning, if leg-stiffening, half-day hike. The canyon is nearly 3km long, with 300m-high walls sculpted in weathered limestone. Walking the gorge's length takes roughly 1½ hours each way.
To get there, take a bus from Turda to the centre of Cheia (4 lei, 30 minutes). From there it’s a straightforward roadside 5km hike to the gorge (follow the ‘cheile turzii’ signs). It's possible to drive down this road, but ask locally about road conditions and don't attempt it in poor weather.
Dress for temperatures several degrees lower than in the surrounding uplands, and wear grippy footwear. Pay the entry fee after the first bridge (high season only).
4Sleeping & Eating
Turda offers a modest array of midrange hotels, some with a spa theme in line with the healing powers of the salt mine. But most visitors day-trip here from Cluj-Napoca, 30km north.
oHunter Prince Castle & Dracula HotelHOTEL$$
(Castelul Printul Vanator; GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-316 850; www.huntercastle.ro; Str Șuluțiu 4-6; s/d/ste from 204/247/294 lei; paW)
The fanged face of Vlad Țepeș, beaming down from a stone wall, might not be the warm welcome you’d hope from a hotel. But it’s hard to resist staying at this turreted homage to Vlad, crowned with iron flagpoles, with hunting regalia decorating it within. Comfy twin rooms have suitably spiky wrought-iron bed frames; meanwhile the suites are stupendous, with carved armoires and mosaic-style stonework.
Alegria CentralePIZZA$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0364-888 444; www.pizzaalegria.ro; Piaţa Republicii; mains 15 lei; h8am-midnight)
A good stop for a coffee, pizza or salad; eat inside its Europop-blasted interior or, better still, outside on the Piaţa-facing terrace.
8Getting There & Away
Maxitaxis leave frequently from the centre for Cluj-Napoca’s Piaţa Mihai Viteazul (7 lei, 40 minutes). The bus station in Piaţa Romană, a 10-minute walk south of Piaţa Republicii, has buses heading for Alba Iulia (15 lei, 1½ to two hours, hourly), Sibiu (28 lei, three hours, almost hourly) and Bucharest (70 to 80 lei, six or seven daily, eight hours).
If arriving by car, note that parking around Turda’s main streets starts from 1 lei per half-hour; there are machines and signs showing a number to pay by SMS (if you have a Romanian SIM card).
Huedin Microregion
Centuries-old traditions endure in this peaceful region of chalky hills and farmland, just off the Cluj–Oradea highway. Scattered around chief town Huedin, just north of the Apuseni Mountains, the 42 villages comprising the Huedin Microregion (or Kalotaszeg) are rewarding terrain for road trippers and hikers.
The Kalotaszeg is much beloved by Hungarian folklorists as a stronghold of pastoral Transylvanian Magyar culture. Experience it through immersion: stay the night in a never-changing village like Sâncraiu, indulge in Hungarian pastries, and learn woodwork and embroidery from local artisans.
The area’s namesake, Huedin (Bánffyhunyad in Hungarian), 52km west of Cluj-Napoca, is an unengaging highway town. Nonetheless, it has the bulk of local amenities, so it's worth pausing here to stock up on food, fuel or mobile-phone credit.
1Sights
Exploring the area surrounding Huedin brings fascinating insights into Transylvanian Magyar culture.
Driving west from Cluj-Napoca towards Huedin, you can't fail to notice the famous 'souvenir village' of Izvoru Crişului (Körösfő to Hungarians). Shops are stacked along the main road running through town, peddling traditional ceramics, linen womenswear and menswear, beaded jewellery (from 15 lei), baskets, embroidered tablecloths (800 lei and beyond), and plenty of cheap souvenirs and toys too.
Continue west for 7km to Huedin, then take the southbound route 1R for 5km to Sâncraiu. Davincze Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0264-257 580, 0745-637 352; www.kalotaszeg-davincze.ro; No 291, Sâncraiu) can arrange hiking guides (€55 per day) and horse-drawn carriage rides (€20 per hour) into the sweeping hills here. But most compelling are the authentic cultural and gastronomic experiences on offer.
Twelve kilometres southwest of Sâncraiu lies Mănăstireni (Magyargyerömonostor in Hungarian), a quaint village noted for its 13th-century church. During the 1848 revolution, 200 Hungarians died at the battle of Mănăstireni; you can see bullet holes from Turk guns in the church. Twenty-three kilometres south of here is a dam-flooded village submerged beneath Lake Beliș-Fântânele – at very low water levels, you can see the church tower come up for air.
4Sleeping & Eating
Main town Huedin might seem like an obvious base for exploring the region, but accommodation here is uninspiring and thin on the ground. Pensiunes in Sâncraiu or Răchițele are much more comfortable.
oPüspök PanzióPENSION$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0745-637 352; www.kalotaszeg-davincze.ro; Sâncraiu; s/d €15/20; pW)
Brimming with charm and colour, this former barn has been tran
sformed into a welcoming guesthouse with unique hand-painted decoration, firm beds and spotless white linens. Chairs and bedframes are a riot of blue-and-red patterns, expertly finished by a local furniture painter. Breakfast is an extra €3. Traditional Kalotaszeg dinners (€7) are available on request. It's expertly run by the Davincze Tours team.
8Getting There & Away
Huedin is accessible from Cluj-Napoca by train (17 lei, one to 1½ hours, 12 daily), and bus or maxitaxi (8 to 10 lei, one to two hours, 12 daily). From here, taxis can drop you to villages (about 20 to 25 lei for Sâncraiu). You'll see plenty of hitchhikers, though we don't recommend it. A rental car from Cluj is best.
WORTH A TRIP
RăCHIțELE
Travelling south from Huedin towards the Apuseni, the last base with guesthouses before the mountains is Răchițele, surrounded by rolling pastureland, farmsteads and thick forest. Six kilometres west of the village, reached by a patchy dirt road, is 30m-high Cascada Vălul Miresei (Bride's Veil Waterfall). The cascade takes its name from a folk tale in which a bride fell over the cliff, leaving her veil draped on the rocks.
It's also on this road you'll find some welcoming pensiunes, including Pensiunea Susman ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0744-475 758, 0744-653 294; www.pensiuneasusman.home.ro; Răchițele; d/tr/q from 70/80/100 lei; p). Less than two kilometres from Bride's Veil waterfall, this pretty wood cabin offers warm welcomes and simple rooms with forest views. Two of its eight rooms have shared bathrooms. Speak to the hospitable owners about hiking and rock climbing in summer, and ice climbing and sleigh rides in winter.
Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 25