Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria

by Lonely Planet

  This big, old three-star hotel has rooms that are slightly old-fashioned but perfectly fine, and some have balconies with excellent views. The restaurant chefs are kind to breakfast slackers and the menu is reasonably priced.

  5Eating

  TimesROMANIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0333-401 489; www.facebook.com/TheTimesRestaurant; Str Paharnicului 3; mains 20-35 lei; h10am-11pm; W)

  The setting couldn't be prettier: a restored 19th-century mansion in a green area a block north of the main artery B-dul Decebal. The menu runs the gamut from meats and seafood to cheaper (but still excellent) pastas, and the desserts and pastries are some of the best in town. There's a big garden and terrace for dining out in nice weather.

  Cercul GospodinelorROMANIAN$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0233-223 845; Str Ion Creangă; mains 15-30 lei; h10am-midnight)

  Located at the top of the road to Cozla Park, this is a good pick for traditional Romanian cuisine, with gorgeous views and nightly live music in summer. Watch for wedding and private parties, though, which can bring service to a crawl.

  LagunaPIZZA$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0233-232 121; www.restaurantlaguna.ro; B-dul Decebal 80; mains 15-30 lei; h10am-11pm; W)

  This long-time favourite is known for very good pizza, but the cooks here also turn out good grilled meats, soups and salads. After 9pm or so it devolves into a drinking den, and there are a couple of billiard tables on hand to help you work off the beer.

  oNoirINTERNATIONAL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0233-211 886; www.restaurantnoir.ro; Piaţa Mihail Kogalniceanu; mains 25-50 lei; hnoon-11pm; W)

  Intelligent and well-thought-out menu combinations, such as grilled pork tenderloin served with baked apple or glazed pork ribs paired with diced potato and coleslaw, feature at Noir. The interior is done out in modern minimalism; the wine list is long and very good. The only drawback might be inattentive service, but with food this good, it's worth the wait.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  The centre is filled with some old-school coffee bars, where the main attractions are ice cream and homemade cakes. While there's no major university in town, city residents do their best to maintain a lively drinking and clubbing vibe.

  CasablancaCAFE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0233-213 214; www.cafecasablanca.ro; B-dul Republicii 7; h8am-midnight; W)

  An elegant continental-style cafe, Casablanca has subdued decor with striped wallpaper and matching ornate chairs. Young lawyers, visiting television personalities and other socialites come for the good coffee, wine and beer.

  Chaplin’s PubPUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0749-061 414; www.facebook.com/chaplinspubpiatraneamt; Str Luceafarugui 22; h9am-late; W)

  This popular pub consists of lots of weathered wood, historic photos, and small enclosed bars and tables with candles adding a touch of intimacy. It's very popular on Saturdays, when live bands perform.

  Temple PubPUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0233-215 215; B-dul Republicii 15; h7am-late; W)

  This big eclectic bar at the B-dul Decebal intersection combines Greek fast food and decent grills with Irish (and other) beer. There are plenty of outdoor tables and it's a popular weekend nightspot.

  3Entertainment

  Tineretului TheatreTHEATRE

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 233-211 036; www.teatrultineretuluint.ro; Piaţa Ştefan cel Mare 1; tickets 20 lei; hbox office 11am-noon Tue-Fri, 4-7pm Tue-Sun)

  Though the name means 'Youth Theatre', this is an active and well-respected dramatic theatre, with performances appealing to audiences of all ages. Productions are normally staged in Romanian. Consult the website for an up-to-date schedule.

  Tonique ClubCLUB

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0233-213 388; www.facebook.com/toniqueclub; B-dul Republicii 18; h24hr)

  There's something obscure, bordering on the mysterious, about this dark underground bar that works 24 hours a day. It has a few gambling video machines in the corner, and is frequented by muscular men singing traditional Romanian drinking songs, though weekend 'club nights' are more lively.

  8Information

  Post OfficePOST

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; B-dul Decebal 2; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)

  Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0233-271 591; www.cniptpiatraneamt.ro; Piaţa Petrodava 1; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri)

  Very helpful tourist information office situated in a kiosk in front of the Central Plaza Hotel. They hand out free city maps and can advise on sightseeing in the city and further afield in the area around Bicaz and the Ceahlău Massif.

  8Getting There & Away

  Bus

  The bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0233-211 210; www.autogari.ro; Str Bistriţei 1), near the train station, has 11 buses and maxitaxis to Târgu Neamţ (10 lei, one hour) for connecting services to Agapia. Buses also run to Gura Humorului (25 lei, three daily). Other popular bus routes include Suceava (35 lei, two hours, four daily), Iaşi (32 lei, 2½ hours, six daily), Braşov (45 lei, six hours, one or two daily) and Bicaz (6 lei, 30 minutes, several daily).

  Train

  The Agenţia de Voiaj CFR ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0233-211 034; Piaţa Ştefan cel Mare 10; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) sells train tickets. Trains to Bucharest (73 lei, seven to eight hours, several daily), Suceava (47 lei, four hours, several daily) and Iaşi (47 lei, four hours, several daily) all usually require a change in Bacău. Around five daily trains serve Bicaz (5 lei, 45 minutes).

  WORTH A TRIP

  WINDING YOUR WAY THROUGH BICAZ GORGES

  National highway 12C weaves precariously through the dramatic Bicaz Gorges (Cheile Bicazului), 20km west of Bicaz. It's a spectacular ride as the road cuts through sheer 300m-high limestone cliffs along which pine trees improbably cling.

  Along the roadside, artisans hawk their crafts (some original, some mass-produced) from stalls beneath the rocks, at the points where it’s wide enough for parking. The Bicaz Gorges belong to the Hăşmaş-Bicaz Gorges National Park (Parcul Naţional Hăşmaş-Cheile Bicazului).

  A few kilometres west begins Transylvania’s Harghita County and Lacu Roşu (Red Lake), a pretty lake where you can get a bite and rent a boat (Barcă; Hwy 12C, Lacu Roşu; boat rental per 30 min from 20 lei; h10am-6.30pm May-Oct) or hike around. The road continues on for another 20km to Gheorgheni via the similarly scenic Bucin pass. Note the season runs from May to October and things pretty much shut down in winter.

  Lacu Roşu, in fairness, is more a large pond than a real lake. The murky waters here have no healing powers, but do conceal dead tree stumps that jut from the surface at odd angles. One cheerful legend attests that a picknicking group crushed by a fallen mountainside oozed their blood into the site where the lake amassed. (An 1838 landslide did in fact occur, eventually flooding the valley and damming the Bicaz River).

  Though it feels (and is) remote, there are a couple of decent overnight options. Hotel Lacu Roşu (%0374-473 728; www.hotellacurosu.ro; Hwy 12C, Str Principala 32; s/d 100/150 lei; pnaW) offers big bouncy beds with mirrored headboards. The best attraction is the excellent restaurant. Hotel Turist (%0266-380 042; www.lacurosu.hostvision.ro; Hwy 12C, Str Lacu Roşu 1; s/d 100/150 lei; pnaWs) has comfortable rooms with spacious bathrooms.

  Numerous buses and minibuses ply the stretch from Bicaz to Gheorgheni (13 lei, 1½ hours) through the day, passing through the gorges and stopping (on request) at Lacu Roşu. If you're trying to catch a bus out of Lacu Roşu, hail down passing buses on the main road, near the lakefront. Buy your ticket from the driver.

  Ceahlău National Park

  The Ceahlău National Park, including the 1907m high Ceahlău Massif, Moldavia's most impressive peak, spreads out for some 77 sq km and offers great hiking and stunning mountain views. The range is part of the Eastern Carpathians and climbs dramatically to the west of the sprawling artificial Lake Bicaz (Lacu Izvorul Muntelui). An early-morning photo from the peaks out over the misting lake in the distance is the stuff of Instagram legend
. Access the park via hiking trails that fan out from bases in Izvorul Muntelui, near Bicaz on the southeastern side, or from Durău in the north.

  2Activities

  Seven signposted walks of varying difficulty fan out toward the peaks from various access points around the park. The Bicaz Tourist Information Centre website has descriptions of each in English. Note that trails covering the highest elevations are generally closed from October to April and there's a nominal fee (adult 5 lei, child 2 lei) to enter the park. Contact Salvamont (%0244-311 922, 0-SALVAMONT, 0734-889 133) mountain rescue if you run into problems on the trails.

  The quickest route to the top begins near the village of Izvorul Muntelui. A blue-striped path brings you to near the top, near Cabana Dochia, in about four hours (change in elevation: 950m). Alternatively, a red-striped path covers the same elevation change in about seven hours. The two trails allow for unique hikes during ascent and descent.

  From Durău (elevation 850m), on the mountain's northwestern side, a steep track (red stripe, one hour) leads to Cabana Fântânele at 1220m. From there, the red stripe trail carries on to Cabana Dochia near the peak, or use a connecting path to reach a second trail, marked by a red cross. The cumulative difference in elevation from Durău is nearly 1000m.

  zFestivals & Events

  Ceahlău Mountain FestivalMUSIC

  (www.ceahlaupark.ro; hAug)

  The annual mountain festival of folk music and dance takes place over a long weekend in early August at Durău.

  4Sleeping & Eating

  Cabana Izvorul MunteluiLODGE$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0728-325 559, 0233-234 269; www.bicaz-turism.ro; Izvorul Muntelui; r from 70 lei)

  This mountain chalet (797m) is situated at the foot of the eastern side of Ceahlău mountain. Offers accommodation in private doubles as well as four-person bungalows (from 110 lei). Reserve in advance.

  Cabana FântâneleLODGE$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0744-186 360; Durău; dm from 30 lei, s 60 lei)

  Handy mountain chalet on the northern side of the Ceahlău Massif at an altitude of 1220m. It's reachable by trail from Durău and offers 80 beds, including multibunk dorms and private singles. Book in advance by phone.

  Pensiune IgorGUESTHOUSE$

  (%0233-256 503; Str Principala 268, Durău; r 85-110 lei)

  This pensiune has five double rooms with shared bathroom. Breakfast is not provided, but there’s a self-catering kitchen.

  Pensiuna PauloGUESTHOUSE$

  (%0722-769 400; www.pensiunea-paulo.ro; Str Principala 266, Durău; d with/without bathroom 100/75 lei)

  Simple, clean rooms, some en-suite, are available at this old Durău standby.

  Cabana DochiaLODGE$

  (%reservations 0730-603 801; www.cabana-dochia.ro; dm 40-60 lei)

  At 1750m, Cabana Dochia is a godsend for hikers hoping to break up the climb to the top of the Ceahlău Massif. The cabana, near the peak, offers dorm accommodation in four- to 19-bunk rooms and cold showers. There's also a passable restaurant on-site. Book in advance by phone.

  8Information

  Bicaz Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

  (%0233-254 028; www.bicaz-turism.ro; Str Barajului 4, Bicaz; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)

  Good source of information on Bicaz and the Ceahlău Massif. Provides free maps and can help work out hikes and accommodation options.

  Ceahlău National Park Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

  (%0233-256 600; www.ceahlaupark.ro; Hwy 155F, Izvorul Muntelui; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

  Information on hikes and accommodation options in the Ceahlău National Park. The office is located on Hwy 155F, just outside of the village of Izvorul Muntelui.

  8Getting There & Away

  Three daily trains connect Bicaz and Piatra Neamţ (5 lei, 30 minutes). In addition, numerous buses and maxitaxis (6 lei, 30 minutes) run between the two towns throughout the day.

  From Bicaz heading north, public transport options start to thin out, though you might find a bus for the onward journey to Izvorul Muntelui (otherwise it’s a 4km hike). Reach Durău by car following hilly Hwy 155F from Izvorul Muntelui.

  Bucovina

  Bucolic Bucovina is dotted with slant-roofed village houses and lovely groves of beech trees (indeed, the name 'Bucovina' derives from the ancient German and Slavic roots for beech). As in neighbouring Maramureș, across the mountains, you'll encounter old women in colourful traditional dress, fearless children riding bareback on horses, and enterprising locals scouring the forest for some truly massive mushrooms. It's an ornery place, and both public transport and foreign languages can be lacking, but Bucovina is nevertheless highly worthwhile for hill walks, cycling, rural idylls and, of course, taking in those unforgettably colourful monasteries.

  Suceava

  Pop 92,121

  Judging by its small centre alone, Suceava would hardly seem Moldavia’s second-biggest town; however, it has sufficient urban sprawl to ensure runner-up status. While Suceava can’t compete with Iaşi in things cultural or learned, it does make an incredibly useful and affordable base for visiting fortresses and the Bucovina monasteries, with myriad worthwhile tours offered. Suceava also has good eats and rudimentary nightlife.

  As Moldavia's capital from 1388 to 1565, Suceava thrived commercially on the Lviv–Istanbul trading route. It boasted approximately 40 churches when Ştefan cel Mare’s reign concluded in 1504. However, stagnation followed a 1675 Turkish invasion. A century later, Austria-Hungary took over.

  Suceava

  1Top Sights

  1Royal CitadelD2

  1Sights

  2Bucovina History MuseumA3

  3Bucovinian Village MuseumD2

  4Gah SynagogueB1

  5Mirăuţi ChurchC1

  6Monastery of St John the NewC3

  7St Dumitru's ChurchB1

  2Activities, Courses & Tours

  8Explore BucovinaB2

  Hello BucovinaB2

  4Sleeping

  9Hotel BaladaC3

  10Irene's HostelB2

  11Union ApartmentB2

  5Eating

  12LatinoB1

  13NatanaelB1

  14Restaurant Centru VechiB2

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  15AproposA3

  16LoungeB2

  17Oscar WildeB2

  1Sights

  oRoyal CitadelFORTRESS

  (Cetatea de Scaun; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0230-216 439; www.muzeulbucovinei.ro; adult/child 10/3 lei, photography 10 lei; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun)

  Suceava's rugged, abandoned 14th-century citadel has gotten a high-tech makeover, allowing visitors to scramble over the rocks and into the various chambers and learn the structure's history through clever video presentations and hands-on touchscreen exhibits. It's great for kids, the only downside being most of the text and video is only in Romanian. The unconquerable fortress withstood multiple attacks, including one by Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II in 1475, just 22 years after his conquest of Constantinople (Istanbul).

  The original fortress was dubbed 'Muşat’s Fortress' (after founder Petru II Muşat). Its eight square towers were surrounded by trenches. Ştefan cel Mare added 4m-thick, 33m-high walls, foiling archers outside. The exasperated Ottomans finally blew it up in 1675; a century later, home builders were still pillaging the ruins. The fortress is located 3km east of the centre by road (about 12 lei by taxi). Alternatively, hike from the centre (1km) by finding a marked footpath across the street from the Union Apartment, next to McDonald's. It's 250 steps to the top.

  Bucovinian Village MuseumMUSEUM

  (Muzeul Satului Bucovinean; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0230-216 439; www.muzeulbucovinei.ro; Royal Citadel; adult/child 6/2 lei; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

  Located next to the Royal Citadel, this small museum displays relocated Bucovinian traditional homes, with their original furnishings, accessories and appliances.

  Mirăuţi ChurchCHURCH

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0744-304 470; Str Mirăuţilor 17; h8am-7pm)

  Suceava's oldest sur
viving church, Mirăuţi is 500m northwest of the main square. Founded by Petru II Mușat in 1375, it was Moldavia's original coronation church (Ştefan cel Mare was crowned here), and the initial Moldavian bishops' seat. The church was largely restored between 1898 and 1901, preserving the original design.

  Monastery of St John the NewMONASTERY

  (Mănăstirea Sfântu Ioan cel Nou; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Str Ioan Voda Viteazul 2)

  This monastery off Str Mitropoliei, built between 1514 and 1554, remains an important pilgrimage destination: in a decorated silver casket it houses the relics of St John the New, which ruler Alexandru cel Bun had brought to Moldavia in 1415. The church and grounds come alive on 24 June, when faithful from around the country come here and camp on the grounds.

  Bucovina History MuseumMUSEUM

  (Muzeul Naţional al Bucovinei; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0230-516 439; www.muzeulbucovinei.ro; Str Ştefan cel Mare 33; adult/child 10/3 lei; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

  Displays here range from the Bronze Age to the present, and highlight Moldavia's famous rulers, particularly Ştefan cel Mare. While the numismatics, medieval armour and tools are interesting, Ştefan's 'Hall of Thrones' court re-creation seems rather contrived. The exhibits on WWI, WWII and the communist period are particularly interesting.