Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria

by Lonely Planet

  IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF DRACULA

  For diehard Dracula fans, the good news is that the Transylvania chapters of the book are rooted in pure geographical fact, so you can actually see the places visited by its hero, Jonathan Harker. Despite visiting much of the world in his capacity as actor Henry Irving’s manager, Irish-born Bram Stoker never actually set foot in Eastern Europe. Instead, he relied on exhaustive research from afar. Follow this itinerary to squeeze as many drops from both legends.

  To catch the trail of the real Dracula, head to the remote Poienari Citadel on the Transylvania–Wallachia border, where the Impaler’s wife committed suicide. Not far from Braşov – where he also had people impaled – is Bran Castle, where Ţepeş was allegedly briefly imprisoned. The pretty Saxon citadel of Sighişoara may look to be straight out of a fairy tale, but it’s also the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler. Visit the spooky Casa Vlad Dracul restaurant for lunch.

  Next, follow Jonathan Harker's footsteps to northern Transylvania's Bistriţa – known in the book as Bistritz – the medieval town he visited on the eve of St George’s Day, when locals pleaded with him to turn back from his destination at Castle Dracula. From here it’s a short drive up the lonely, forested Tihuţa Pass (which in the book is described as the Borgo Pass). Perched on top of the pass, in exactly the spot Harker described the castle as being, is the Hotel Castel Dracula ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0266-264 020, 0266-264 010; www.hotelcasteldracula.ro; Piatra Fântânele; s/d/ste from 155/170/300 lei; pc). This hotel is loosely Gothic with blood-red carpets and stuffed animals in the reception (not forgetting its occasional heart-attack-inducing crypt). The real reason to come, however, is the view. The rest is up to your imagination.

  Best Dracula Films

  Bram Stoker’s Dracula

  (Francis Ford Coppola; 1992)

  Nosferatu the Vampyre

  (Werner Herzog; 1979)

  Horror of Dracula

  (Terence Fisher; 1958)

  The Brides of Dracula

  (Terence Fisher; 1960)

  Writer's Block

  While he might have hit on the idea of writing a vampire story, initially Stoker couldn’t think of where to locate it. He was also lost for a name for his bloodthirsty nobleman. But then he found a book on Vlad Dracula in Whitby Library whilst on holiday and met a Hungarian who told him at length about Transylvania (meaning 'the land beyond the forests'), and suddenly his story slotted together. It was only then that Stoker immersed himself in the Reading Room at the British Museum Library, swotting up on everything from geography to Romanian folklore and the mythology of vampires.

  Stoker undoubtedly read Emily de Laszowska Gerard's Transylvanian Superstitions (1885), which detailed how to kill vampires.

  Outdoor Activities & Wildlife

  Romania is a great choice for nature-based activities. In addition to hiking and cycling, some highlights include birdwatching in the Danube Delta, wolf-tracking in the Carpathians, and crouching down in a hide watching for brown bears. There are also ample chances for horseback riding, caving, climbing and skiing.

  Hiking

  Mountainous Transylvania and the more remote areas of Moldavia offer the best chances for leaving civilisation behind, though nearly all areas in Romania are covered by marked trails and hiking maps. You'll often find cabanas (huts or chalets) for overnighting in the upper elevations of the Carpathians. These normally have dorm-bed accommodation and a cafeteria or restaurant to get something to eat or drink.

  Romania's hiking trails are well-marked, self-explanatory and accessible to anyone who is reasonably fit and in possession of a good map. Hotels and local tourist information offices can advise on the best walks in an area and transport options for getting a lift to the trailhead. Tourist offices also sometimes stock walking maps, but not always. Big bookshops are usually the best source for maps.

  For more challenging treks, or if you simply want to understand more about an area's history or culture, a local guide or guided walk offered by a travel agency is recommended. There are some very solid tour options and guides working out of cities such as Braşov and Cluj-Napoca. Another credible source of guides can be found at www.alpineguide.ro. Tour companies worth calling out include:

  Carpathian Travel CentreSibiu-based travel agency offering Transylvanian hikes.

  Discover Eco-Romania (www.eco-romania.ro) Hiking and walking tours in Transylvania and Maramureş, as well as a long list of more active pursuits, including wildlife-immersive treks.

  DiscoveRomania Themed walking tours including Saxon Transylvania and rural Maramureş.

  Roving România Walking and wildlife tracking tours as well as more culturally intensive offerings, including a Roma cultural experience tour.

  Where to Hike

  The Carpathians (aka Transylvanian Alps) offer endless opportunities for hikers, the most popular areas being the Bucegi and Făgăraş ranges, south and west of Braşov. The Bucegi has a flat-top plateau that can be reached by cable cars from Sinaia.

  Well known for their karst formations and underground caves, the Apuseni Mountains, west of Cluj-Napoca, are also on the adventurer's radar. Other fruitful hiking areas include the Retezat National Park, which lies northwest of Târgu Jiu and south of Deva in Transylvania; around Păltiniş, south of Sibiu; and, in Moldavia, the less visited Rarău and Ceahlău mountains near the Bicaz Gorges.

  Staying Safe on the Trails

  Here are a few common-sense tips to keep you safe while hiking:

  Stay on marked trails – especially in national parks.

  Have a decent map with you, and don’t end up trekking in the dark (most good maps include details of walk durations on their reverse).

  Always wear sturdy shoes and make sure you're carrying enough water.

  Carry the telephone number of emergency rescue service Salvamont (0725 826 668), and check the weather forecast before setting out.

  Never attempt a difficult trail alone.

  LEADING NATIONAL PARKS & RESERVES

  National Park/Reserve Features Activities Best Time to Visit

  Apuseni Nature Park cave system, boars, deer, bears hiking, caving Jun-Sep

  Bucegi Nature Reserve forests, abundant botanic species including edelweiss hiking, biking, skiing year round

  Ceahlău Massif National Park countless flower species, rare fauna hiking Jun-Sep

  Danube Delta Biosphere Reserve Europe’s biggest wetlands, more than 5000 plant & animal species boat tours, fishing, birdwatching May-Sep

  Iron Gates National Park (Porţile de Fier) spectacular scenery, stunning gorges hiking May-Sep

  Piatra Craiului National Park wolves, deer, hazel-coloured bears hiking, climbing May-Oct

  Retezat National Park Unesco Biosphere Reserve, black mountain goats, bears, foxes, deer, monk eagles hiking May-Oct

  Todirescu Flower Reservation meadows of tulips, bluebells, chrysanthemums hiking Jun-Sep

  The proportion of agricultural land in Romania is around 60%. One third of Romania is constituted by mountains, another third hills and plateaus, while the remainder is plains.

  Cycling & Mountain Biking

  Cycling and mountain biking are slowly developing in Romania, though the infrastructure of trails, maps and rental and repair shops is still rudimentary. Student-friendly cities like Timişoara, Cluj-Napoca and Iaşi, as well as Bucharest, have made the most progress in creating cycling lanes, although even here the network is spotty. Encountering careless drivers and the occasional pack of stray dogs are further concerns.

  On the positive side, Romania is filled with long stretches of seldom-trafficked country roads, abandoned forest trails and some amazing vistas that certainly reward the effort of finding a bike and hitting the road. The best place to mountain bike is the plateau atop the Bucegi Mountains. From Sinaia (the town below) you can hire bikes; pay for an extra ticket on the gondola lift and go up for the day and work your way back down.

  Cycling Romania (www.cyclingromania.ro) A great cycling resource; o
ffers multiday mountain-bike adventures to the Danube Delta or Transylvania.

  Hooked On Cycling (www.hookedoncycling.co.uk) UK-based touring group offering extended self-guided tours through Transylvania.

  Hiring a Bike

  Ask at your hotel or local tourist information office about possible bike rentals in the area where you're staying. Rates vary but expect to pay from 5/30 lei per hour/day.

  i'Velo (www.ivelo.ro), a nationwide cycling-promotion group, offers bikes for hire in big cities around the country, including Bucharest, Braşov, Timişoara and Iaşi.

  Horse Riding

  There are private riding clubs scattered around the country that can normally accommodate visitors. The local tourist information office should be your first port of call. Rates vary but expect to pay around 80 lei per hour for guided rides. Throughout the Carpathians, a network of horse riding-trails snakes through beautiful and remote areas.

  Cross-Country Farm Horse-riding and agrotourism accommodation option located near Sighişoara.

  Equus Silvania (www.equus-silvania.com) Offers guided horse rides, including winter rides, as well as overnight stays in Șinca Nouă, not far from Braşov.

  Maggie's Ranch (www.maggiesranch.ro) Pretty guesthouse and a full array of horse rides and excursions at a ranch situated just east of Bran in Transylvania.

  Merlelor (www.merlelor.com) Mountain rides through the Carpathians, as well as extended camping trips and more upscale affairs centred on fine wining and dining.

  Caving & Rock Climbing

  Romania has more than 12,000 caves (peştera), many of which have been opened to the public. With the exception of a few large and well-visited caves, don't expect easy, visitor-friendly conditions. Instead, you may have to hike to the cave entrance and, once you've arrived, hoist and climb your way around. Pack a warm coat and wear sturdy shoes.

  The Apuseni Nature Park (www.parcapuseni.ro), west of Cluj-Napoca, is undergirded by limestone and has the country's highest number of caves per square kilometre. Within the park's bounds are more than 1500 caves, plus Scărişoara, Romania’s largest underground glacier. The two caves that are the best known and easiest to reach are the spectacular Ice Cave, one of Romania’s five glacier caves, and the Bears Cave (Peștera Urșilor).

  Apuseni Experience Oradea-based adventure outfit offering regional treks through the Apuseni Mountains, and can help tailor a caving trip.

  Green Mountain Holidays Gets great reports for its caving trips in the Apuseni Mountains.

  For rock climbing, the area around Braşov is particularly fruitful. The websites of Climb Europe (www.climb-europe.com) is a great reference guide, with links to maps and climbing points. Rock climbers take to the walls at the Piatra Craiului National Park, not far from Bran. The Bicaz Gorges in Moldavia offer spectacular challenges too, and there’s some climbing near Băile Herculane.

  Skiing & Snowboarding

  Romania is finally on the winter adrenalin map, offering good-value accommodation, powder snow and uncluttered slopes. Recent investments have also seen many of the country's resorts getting state-of-the-art gondolas and new pistes added. Beginner, intermediate and expert slopes are marked as blue, red and black, respectively. The ski season generally runs from December to March, with some slopes operating by mid-November and staying open into April.

  Tickets & Gear

  It's usually not necessary to bring your own gear, as ski resorts should have decent skis and boards for hire. Ski-lift and day-pass prices vary according to the season and location. Check out www.ski-in-romania.com for images, webcams and information on resorts and snowfall forecasts.

  The proportion of forested land in Romania is about 25%. Within these dark spaces, according to the Romanian General Association of Hunters and Anglers, lurk around 4000 wolves.

  Where to Ski

  Transylvania is the centre of the action and the most popular places are reached as day trips from Braşov. Convenient Poiana Braşov – a 20-minute bus ride west of Braşov – has been upgraded in recent years, though it's still more of a beginner/intermediate option. For something more challenging, Sinaia in the Prahova Valley offers scope for the experienced skier, with wide bowls at its summit that funnel to gullies and half-pipes. Also nearby is the ski resort Predeal. South of Sibiu, you can find smaller lifts at pretty Păltinis.

  Outside of Transylvania, there are some fun smaller ski hills in Maramureş, at Izvoare and Borsa. The south side of the Apuseni Mountains has a couple of ski hills at Stâna de Vale and Gârda de Sus. In Moldavia, you can ski at Câmpulung Moldovenesc. The lifts there are due for renovation in 2017.

  Check out www.mountainguide.ro for tips on lesser-known ski locations.

  Health Spas

  Check out the information provided by the National Organisation of Spas (www.romanian-spas.ro). Contur Travel (www.contur.ro) can arrange spa visits and maintains a useful website.

  Some standout spas:

  Băile Tuşnad (www.bailetusnad.ro) A pensiune-filled valley in Transylvania with mineral baths and pools in the Harghita Mountains.

  Covasna Known as ‘the resort of 1000 springs’ in Transylvania's Székely Land

  Mud Baths Lake Techirghiol, near Eforie Nord on the Black Sea, is famous for its dark sapropel mud, which, when slathered over your body is said to be restorative for skin and bones.

  Sovata Between Târgu Mureş and Sighişoara in Transylvania; famed for its curative dip in a bear-shaped lake.

  THE BEAR & THE TRAVELLER

  Thanks to its megalomaniac dictator (under Ceauşescu no one but he was allowed to hunt bears) 60% of Europe's brown bears are today found in Romania – a staggering 6000 bears. The chances of seeing one are high if you're trekking with a guide or going to a bear hide. A cousin of the grizzly bear, Romanian bears are smaller but have the same powerful hump of muscle on their back. They can also move at almost 50km/h.

  Hikers have been killed by bears in recent years, usually because of accidentally surprising them, so there are a few tips to be mindful of. Try to pitch your tent in an open spot so bears can see you, and any used sanitary material or rubbish should be kept in a sealed bag. When walking through dense forest, talk loudly to announce your presence – the last thing a bear wants is to engage with you.

  Birdwatching & Wildlife Spotting

  The Danube Delta provides a major transit hub for birds migrating from as far off as the Russian Arctic to the Nile River. Here birdwatchers can hire boats or take tours or ferries on one of three channels through Romania’s 3446-sq-km wetland. Almost the entire world’s population of red-breasted geese (up to 70,000) winter here, as does 60% of the world’s small pygmy cormorant population. In the summer white pelicans along with birds from up to 300 other species can be seen as well.

  There are also birdwatching excursions in Transylvania’s mountains and along the southern Black Sea coast. Migration season in spring runs from March to May, in autumn from August to October. It’s particularly good in mid-April and October.

  Ibis Tours Tulcea-based travel agency that organises specialised Danube Delta tours guided by ornithologists.

  Roving România In Braşov; can help organise birding trips in and around Transylvania.

  Romania is a great destination for spotting four-legged wildlife, with the most popular tours centred on tracking bears. Bears are an ever-present danger to hikers in Transylvania, and every year brings stories of an unsuspecting trekker mauled in the woods. However, for a much safer bear encounter (with a decent chance of seeing at least a few animals in their natural habitat), join a group excursion to a bear hide. Several companies offer such tours in ways that promote the security of both you and the animal. Most companies also offer wolf- and lynx-tracking excursions.

  Transylvanian Wolf With award-winning Romanian guide Dan Marin at its helm, this company leads walks on the trail of animals such as wolves, bears and lynx.

  Carpathian Nature Tours Conservation-minded operator based in Măgura village offering be
ar-tracking hikes and more.

  Visual Arts & Folk Culture

  The country's peasant roots have given rise to a thriving folk culture, and traditional arts and crafts, such as weaving, pottery and woodworking, are still important aspects of the country's identity. Roma music belongs to this legacy. Traditional Roma music is still played in the countryside, and more modern forms, such as manele, are popular among urban youth. Contributions to international arts include the early-20th-century sculptures of Constantin Brâncuși and, more recently, the films of the ‘Romanian New Wave’.

  Visual Arts

  Painting

  Medieval painting in Romania was marked by a strong Byzantine influence. Devised to educate illiterate peasants, paintings took the form of frescoes depicting scenes from the Bible on the outside walls of churches; they also appeared on iconostases inside churches and in miniature form as decorative frames for religious manuscripts.

  The painted monasteries of Southern Bucovina, dating from the 15th and 16th centuries, are home to Romania’s loveliest and liveliest frescoes. The works are prized not only for their composition, but perhaps even more for their inventive application of colour and harmony.

  Renaissance influences were muted in many areas by the cultural dominance of the Ottoman Empire, but can be seen here and there in western areas, and even in parts of Wallachia, which served initially as a vassal state of the Hungarian kingdom. The beautifully preserved frescoes on the wall of the 14th-century St Nicholas Church in Curtea de Argeş represent a rare synthesis of Byzantine themes, such as portraits of saints given a fleshier, three-dimensional cast, more characteristic of the Renaissance.