Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria
Page 57
This long-established hizha (hut), situated in the mountains at the base of Cherni Vrâh, offers a number of dorm rooms with two to 10 beds, and three apartments, all with shared bathrooms. There's a restaurant (open 9am to midnight) and tearoom, and skiing gear is available to rent.
Kuker ChaletCHALET$
(%02-955 4955; www.kukerbg.com; Zlatnite Mostove; r 40-50 lv; p)
One of the more comfortable ‘huts’, Kuker has 10 double rooms with TVs and bathrooms, and an on-site restaurant. Prices are slightly higher on Fridays and Saturdays. The chalet is located near the main road, about 100m north of Zlatnite Mostove.
SPA Hotel DragalevtsiLUXURY HOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0879 471 135; http://spahotel-dragalevtsi.com; ul Karnobatski prohod 1, Dragalevtsi; s/d/ste from 100/130/170 lv; paiWs; g64, 66, 93)
This bright, modern hotel in the Dragalevtsi neighbourhood is ideally located for exploring Vitosha Nature Park, and it has a spa centre, indoor pool and an excellent restaurant. Check the website for various package deals.
8Getting There & Away
Vitosha Nature Park has three main entry points: the western end, including the stone river at Zlatnite Mostove, is accessed by hiking trail or taxi from near the Boyana Church; the central area, below the Sofia suburb of Dragalevtsi, can be entered via the Dragalevtsi Chairlift; and the eastern end, below the Sofia suburb of Simeonovo, is served by the Simeonovo gondola (cabin lift) that leads to up to Aleko. The chairlift and gondola operate only on holidays and weekends.
To reach the Dragalevtsi lift and monastery from the centre of Sofia, use public bus 66 or 93; note bus 66 runs only on weekends and holidays. Buses 122 and 123 serve the base of the Simeonovo gondola.
Plovdiv & the Southern Mountains
Plovdiv & the Southern Mountains Highlights
Rila Mountains
Rila Village
Rila Monastery
Borovets
Pirin Mountains
Blagoevgrad
Bansko
Melnik
Bulgarian Thrace
Plovdiv
Rodopi Mountains
Chepelare
Pamporovo
Smolyan
Devin
Plovdiv & the Southern Mountains
Why Go?
Spectacular mountains encircle spiritual sights in this swathe of inland Bulgaria. Landscapes are as diverse as sandstone pyramids, glacial lakes and snow-streaked peaks more than 2000m high.
Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited city, Plovdiv anchors the region. Roman ruins and a sparkling artistic quarter provide a thrilling backdrop to the city’s calendar of festivals, which brims ahead of its reign as European Capital of Culture 2019.
Quiet winemaking villages snooze in Plovdiv’s surrounds, while the Rodopi Mountains reach south, dotted with ski centres such as Pamporovo. To the west lie the Rila Mountains, home to a monastery that is a spiritual lighthouse for all of Bulgaria.
Perhaps most spectacular is the Pirin Mountain range, which grumbles south of pleasant, student-filled Blagoevgrad. High-octane Bansko is the region’s leading ski and snowboard spot, but in spring and summer Pirin National Park comes to the fore: its hiking trails weave between gem-blue lakes, and up to arid peaks such as Mt Vihren (2914m).
When to Go
AMay & Jun Hiking among spring flowers in Rila and Pirin, or enjoying jazz or folk festivals in Plovdiv.
ASep & Oct Savouring wines in temperate Thrace, or autumnal spa bliss in the Rodopi Mountains.
AJan & Feb Ski by day and party by night on a winter break in Bansko or Pamporovo.
Best Places to Eat
A Hemingway
A Mehana Chavkova Kâshta
A Hebros Restaurant
A Mehana Dedo Pene
A Restaurant Bulgare
Best Places to Sleep
A Todoroff Wine & Spa
A Kosovo Houses
A At Renaissance Square
A Villa Stresov
A Hostel Old Plovdiv
A Hotel Rojena
Plovdiv & the Southern Mountains Highlights
1 Rila Monastery Standing awestruck in a millennium-old monastery, whose frescoes are among Bulgaria's most beautiful.
2 Plovdiv Admiring Roman ruins and period mansions by day, before sashaying into the Kapana quarter’s arty nightlife.
3 Skiing in Bansko Thundering down pistes at Bulgaria’s premier winter-sports town.
4 Melnik Peering at strange sandstone pillars while sipping the famous wines of this mountain village.
5 Devin’s Spas Sliding into silky waters at premium spa hotels in this fragrant town.
6 Historic Thrace Road tripping among wineries, ancient fortresses and enigmatic ruins.
7 Seven Rila Lakes Hiking wild mountain passes to reach inky blue lakes and mysterious forests.
8 Rocky Rodopis Walking amid surreal rock formations or touring caves.
History
Archaeologists have uncovered tools, bones and other fragments of cave-dwelling peoples across Plovdiv and Bulgaria’s southern mountains. But this land is most significantly marked by the Thracians, nomadic tribal peoples whose burial mounds still pepper the land. This warring group of tribes left no written records in their own language, but once dominated large parts of modern-day Bulgaria, northeastern Greece and today’s European Turkey. Today’s ‘Bulgarian Thrace’ – the section between the Sredna Gora Mountains, the Rodopi Mountains and the Black Sea coast – was the birthplace of legendary slave leader Spartacus, and Orpheus, the tragic, semi-mythical inventor of music.
Subsequent civilisations left more impressive ruins. Under Roman rule, which reached Philippopolis (Plovdiv) in 72 BC, spectacular structures such as theatres and stadia were built and the city became a strategic capital. After changing hands between the Bulgarians and the Byzantines, the region’s most devastating period came when the Ottomans swept across Bulgaria, seizing Plovdiv in 1364. Meanwhile, villages in the strategic Rodopi mountain passes came under pressure to convert to Islam in return for special privileges; their descendants, Pomak communities, still thrive in the Rodopis today.
In the 18th century, Bansko-born Paisii Hilendarski began tramping from town to town, rousing the masses to reclaim their Bulgarian birthright. Uprisings followed, with initial stirrings in towns such as Perushstitsa quashed by the Ottomans. Plovdiv was freed in 1878, which sparked the National Revival period of architecture and art in earnest. This era’s colourful remnants are easy to enjoy not only in Plovdiv but also Melnik and the tiny 'old towns' in Bansko and Blagoevgrad.
A burgeoning tourist scene allowed mountain towns such as Devin and Pamporovo to develop gradually from the 1930s. Communism descended to boost the region’s manufacturing scene (though it did little for art and culture). Fortunately the 2000s brought a renaissance on that front, especially to Plovdiv; meanwhile, EU funding and private investment continues to slowly trickle into smaller southern mountain towns.
Rila Mountains РИЛА ПЛАНИНА
The Rila Mountains, 70km south of Sofia, inspire awe for their spiritual history and stark beauty. The ancient Thracians called them ‘mountains of water’: around 200 glacial lakes gleam between these peaks, and ice-cold alpine streams thrash down from their heights.
Enormous and largely forested Rila National Park, a peaceful habitat for deer, wild goats and falcons, encompasses more than 800 sq km. At its heart is Mt Musala (2925m), the country’s highest peak, and around 100 other mountains tower above 2000m. The steep ascent to Mt Musala is popular with hikers, as are trails around the glowing Seven Rila Lakes area.
Slightly north of the park lies Borovets, the region’s main ski hub, while west of the park boundary stands Rila Monastery, Bulgaria’s spiritual nucleus and a major tourist site.
Rila Village РИЛА
Pop 3600
This village 22km west of Rila Monastery is a sleepy place, kept awake by its transport links to the sacred Orthodox shrine. Most m
onastery-bound buses connect here, and there are a few cafes and hotels catering to pilgrims and tourists. Head to pl Vazhrajdane for restaurants and the Rila Tourist Information Center.
2Activities
oStob Pyramids EcotrailWALKING
(2 lv; h8.30am-6.30pm Mar-Oct, to 5pm Mon-Fri Nov-Feb)
Gawp at an alien landscape of sandstone turrets along this magnificent ecotrail, which begins 5km south of Rila village. Stob's naturally formed chimneys and pyramids of ruddy sandstone, with rock clefts 40m deep, are a spectacular contrast to the village's surrounding meadows. Follow signs for the ecotrail from Stob village; there's a car park near the beginning of the trail.
4Sleeping
Rila village's guesthouse and hotel offerings rather lack charm. Cosier accommodation offerings can be found along the road to Rila Monastery.
Valdis HotelGUESTHOUSE$
(%0898920353; http://valdiscomplex.com; Rila; s/d/tr 40/50/60 lv)
This simple guesthouse and inn, 5km east of Rila village and tucked away from the main road, has an idyllic riverside location and makes a convenient base for visiting Rila Monastery. The restaurant, with outdoor seating that overlooks thrashing water, serves breakfast (from 3 lv), and a selection of Bulgarian soups, omelettes and grilled meat dishes (mains 5 lv to 10 lv).
8Information
The Rila Tourist Information Center (pl Vazharajdane; h7am-1pm & 2-7pm) isn't always faithful to its opening hours, but it has bus timetables, monastery and hiking information, maps, and large placards with local information.
8Getting There & Away
Blagoevgrad–Rila buses operate hourly, the last returning to Blagoevgrad around 8pm (2 lv, 45 minutes). Two daily buses also serve Sofia (9 lv, two hours). If connecting from elsewhere, use Dupnitsa–Rila buses (three daily).
Three daily buses (2 lv) connect Rila village to Rila Monastery. If you're making a day trip from somewhere other than Rila village, start early to leave enough time for connections.
Rila Monastery
Elev 1147m
Rising out of a forested valley in the Rila Mountains, Bulgaria’s most famous monastery has been a spiritual centre for 1000 years. Rila Monastery’s fortress-like complex engulfs 8800 sq m, and within its stone walls you’ll find remarkably colourful architecture and religious art. Visitors can’t fail to be struck by its elegant colonnades, archways striped in black, red and white, and the bright yellow domes of its main church, beneath which dance apocalyptic frescoes. All of this splendour, against a backdrop of mist-swirled mountains, has made Rila Monastery hugely popular among both pilgrims and curious visitors.
Most travellers visit Rila Monastery on a day trip, but you can stay at or near the monastery to experience its tranquillity after the tour buses leave, or explore the hiking trails that begin here.
History
The monastery was founded in AD 927, inspired by the powerful spiritual influence of hermit monk Ivan Rilski. By the end of the 14th century, it had become a powerful feudal fiefdom, attracting enormous donations from Bulgaria's tsars. Though it was plundered early in the 15th century, the monastery was restored in 1469, when Rilski’s relics were returned from Veliko Târnovo. Rila Monastery was vital to the preservation of Bulgarian culture and religion under Ottoman rule, despite being sacked by the Ottomans several times.
Rila’s greatest modern catastrophe was a fire in 1833 that nearly engulfed all monastic buildings. An inundation of funds from Bulgarian and foreign donors allowed reconstruction to commence within a year. This rebuild during the Bulgarian Revival period gave the monastery new meaning, and it continues to represent indomitable Bulgarian identity. In 1961 the communist regime proclaimed Rila a national museum, and 22 years later it became a Unesco World Heritage site.
1Sights
The monastery compound is open from 6am to 10pm and includes a church, two museums, an icon gallery, guest rooms and even a post office.
The nearby 24m-high stone Hreliova Tower (1335), named after a significant benefactor, is the only 14th-century structure remaining here. The monastery’s kitchen (1816) is in the northern wing's courtyard. Food was once prepared in giant cauldrons to cater for hundreds of pilgrims at a time – a single cauldron could fit an entire cow.
The upper balcony offers outstanding views over Rila Mountains.
Church of Rozhdestvo BogorodichnoCHURCH
(Church of the Nativity; Rila Monastery)
The highlight of Rila Monastery is this magnificent church, built from 1834 to 1837, with distinctive black-and-white archways and three yellow-painted domes. Its exterior frescoes are richly coloured scenes of Bible parables, including some blood-curdling illustrations of the punishments awaiting sinners; look out for demons gobbling the damned whole, or lassoing sinners into hell. Some are autographed by Zahari Zograf, the most eminent of Rila's painters. Taking photos inside the church is prohibited (though this is loosely enforced).
Within the church, you'll find an elaborate wooden iconostasis created by master artisans from Samokov and Bansko, plus an enormous low-hanging chandelier decorated with ostrich eggs. Note the need for proper attire: men and women should cover up from collarbone to knee. Holy water is on sale within the church, for the bargain price of 1 lv per bottle.
Ecclesiastical & Historical MuseumMUSEUM
(Rila Monastery; 8 lv; h8.30am-4.30pm)
Rila Monastery's museum has a diverting collection of items and documents from across the centuries, including 14th-century wood carvings, Revival-era icons, and parchments revealing the financial history of this land-owning and profoundly influential monastery. Worthy of attention are the lavish silk and gold gifts sent from Russia to Rila. The museum's centrepiece, however, is Rafail's Cross, an early 19th-century double-sided crucifix.
Carved from a single piece of wood with 36 biblical scenes and around 600 human figures, Rafail's Cross is a feat of astonishing craftsmanship. Brother Rafail, the monk-artisan behind this masterpiece, went blind after its completion.
Icon GalleryMUSEUM
(Rila Monastery; 3 lv; h8.30am-4.30pm)
This single-room gallery features burnished 18th- and 19th-century icons of saints, with portraits of black-clad monks glowering above them.
Exposition Monastery FarmMUSEUM
(Rila Monastery; 3 lv; h8.30am-4.30pm)
Farming implements and traditional Bulgarian costumes are exhibited in this small stone-walled museum by the Samokov gate.
4Sleeping
External accommodation is within 100m of Samokov gate. The monastery provides relatively spartan accommodation for those desiring the full Rila experience.
Gorski KutHOTEL$
(%07054-2170, 0888710348; www.gorski-kut.eu; d/tr/ste 51/61/76 lv; pa)
Between Rila village and the monastery, this pleasant family-run guesthouse has understated, airy rooms with balconies that gaze towards the mountains. It's signposted from the main road, 5km west of the monastery. Payment in cash only. Breakfast not included.
Hotel Tsarev VrahHOTEL$
(%07054-2180; www.tzarevvrah.com; s/d/tr 45/50/66 lv)
On land owned by Rila Monastery, the Tsarev Vrah has functional though unexciting rooms; most balconies offer forest views, but you can request a monastery-view room. The hotel cooks up tasty Bulgarian cuisine such as grilled river trout (mains 10 lv), best enjoyed at the leafy garden tables. It’s signposted about 150m from the monastery's Samokov gate. Breakfast and other meals can be purchased at the restaurant.
Rila Monastery's RoomsMONASTERY$
(%0896872010; www.rilamonastery.pmg-blg.com; r 30-60 lv)
The monastery offers older, dorm-style western-wing rooms (the communal facilities have toilets but no showers) and some nicer en suite rooms. In summer, the latter can be booked by midday, so call ahead or arrive early. The reception office (in the southern wing) handles bookings. Breakfast not included.
5Eating
Most restaurants are near Samokov gate. Rila’s local delicacy is pasturva (trout);
prices are usually per 100g.
Restaurant DrushlyavitsaBULGARIAN$
(mains 6-13 lv; h8am-10pm)
On the left as you exit Rila Monastery's Samokov gate, this fine place has outdoor tables and a brook practically gushing beneath it. It's an atmospheric locale to dine on trout, tripe soup or grilled pork to a watery soundtrack.
BakeryBAKERY$
(snacks from 1.50 lv; h8.30am-4.30pm)
This popular little bakery, in a stone building opposite Rila Monastery's Samokov gate, attracts queues for its banitsa (cheese pastry) and sheep’s-milk yoghurt.
Rila RestaurantBULGARIAN$
(mains 7-12 lv; h8am-midnight)
Part of the Tsarev Vrah hotel, Rila Restaurant specialises in Bulgarian grills and local fish and is set in a traditionally decorated 19th-century building.
7Shopping
Souvenir shops within and outside the monastery sell books, postcards, candles and other religious souvenirs.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Tour buses such as Rila Monastery Bus (%02-489 0883; www.rilamonasterybus.com; 50 lv) are a popular option for a day trip from Sofia.
By public transport, one daily morning bus (22 lv, 2½ hours) goes from Sofia's Ovcha Kupel bus station, returning in the afternoon.