Hikers HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0896764854; www.hikers-hostel.org; ul Sâborna 53; 18-/12-bed dm 18/20 lv; iW)
In a mellow old-town location, Hikers has wood-floored dorms and standard hostel perks such as a laundry and a shared kitchen. Bonuses such as a garden lounge, hammocks and mega-friendly staff make it a worthy option. Staff can help organise excursions to Bachkovo Monastery (southern mountains), Buzludzha Monument (central mountains) and more. Off-site private rooms (from 43 lv) are available in the Kapana area.
Hotel EliteHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-624 537; ul Rayko Daskalov 53; s/d from 45/49 lv; aW)
The name rather overstates its appeal, but Elite offers eight good-value rooms, scattered across four floors of a narrow building, just west of the Kapana bar district. Breakfast not included.
oHostel Old PlovdivHOSTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-260 925; www.hosteloldplovdiv.com; ul Chetvarti Yanuari 3; dm/s/d/tr/q 26/60/90/110/130 lv; pW)
This marvellous old building (1868) is more akin to a boutique historical hotel than a run-of-the-mill hostel. Remarkably restored by charismatic owner Hristo Giulev and his wife, this genial place smack bang in the middle of the old town is all about warm welcomes and old-world charm.
Hotel EvmolpiaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888636370; www.hotelevmolpia.com; ul Krikor Azaryan 4; d from 98 lv; aW)
Newly opened in 2016, this perfectly positioned hotel is the brainchild of the team behind another charismatic spot in the old town, Hostel Old Plovdiv. Hotel Evmopia's raison d'être is faithful representation of Plovdiv's Revival period: it brims with reverently chosen antiques and traditional handicrafts.
Old Plovdiv HouseAPARTMENT$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-629 032; www.oldplovdivbg.com; ul Georgi Benkovski 15; r/ste/apt from 50/90/110 lv; aW)
These sleek suites and apartments have glossy modern bathrooms and supportive mattresses, right in the heart of lively Kapana district. One- and two-bedroom apartments have ample kitchens and plenty of sofa space to sink into, much needed after a day of navigating Plovdiv's shoe-wrecking ancient ruins and cobblestoned streets. Breakfast not included.
Dali Art HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-621 530; www.hoteldali.hit.bg; ul Otets Paisii 11; d/ste from 60/74 lv; paW)
This intimate boutique hotel, off the pedestrianised shopping street, has eight rooms furnished with the right mix of period style and modern amenities, plus reproductions of Salvador Dalí paintings. Though it's a little worn, furnishings with subtly surrealist flourishes make the hotel worthy of its name. Friendly service leaves the strongest impression. Ask ahead about the few available parking spots.
Hotel RealHOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-278 130; www.real-hotel.com; ul Georgi Voyteh 2; s/d/apt 78/89/117 lv; paW)
If you're looking for a soft landing in Plovdiv, this is one of the most polished midrange hotels around. Rooms are somewhat beige, but comfortable. Service is very professional and Real has a transit-friendly location: just off the main road between Plovdiv and the airport, and less than 2km from Yug bus station. Breakfasts are made to order from a small menu.
Plovdiv Guest HouseHOSTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-622 432; www.plovdivguest.com; ul Sâborna 20; dm/s/d/tr/q 20/50/68/76/88 lv; aiW)
Though its interior has a boarding-school vibe and zero charm, there is no denying this backpacker option has thought of everything. Its seven-, eight- and 10-bed dorms are clean and feature en suite bathrooms, and there's a shared kitchen and common room with TV.
oAt Renaissance SquareBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-266 966; www.renaissance-bg.com; pl Vâzhrazhdane 1; s/d from 115/145 lv; paiW)
Re-creating National Revival–era grandeur is a labour of love at this charming little hotel, between the old town and Plovdiv's shopping streets. Its five rooms are individually decorated with handsome wood floors, billowy drapes, and floral wall and ceiling paintings. Friendly, English-speaking owner Dimitar Vassilev is a font of local knowledge who extends the warmest of welcomes.
Guesthouse CocoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878801883; www.coco-plovdiv.com; ul Hristo Dyukmedzhiev 32; s/d/apt 139/169/269 lv; paW)
This swish boutique guesthouse on the edge of the Kapana neighbourhood has a high-fashion-meets-vintage ambience unlike other places in Plovdiv. Its eight rooms and five suites have a mostly monochrome palette with flamboyant touches such as chandeliers, and the service is upmarket but cheerful. Ask in advance if you need a parking space.
Hebros HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-260 180; www.hebros-hotel.com; ul K Stoilov 51a; s/apt from 140/200 lv; aW)
Hebros Hotel is set in a lavish mansion that has housed wealthy furriers and communist party leaders over its fascinating 200-year history, so it's no surprise that demand to stay here is hot. One-of-a-kind bedrooms have antique furnishings and wood-carved bed frames, and there's a jacuzzi and sauna (an extra 25 lv), and an atmospheric restaurant.
Hotel OdeonBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-622 065; www.hotelodeon.net; ul Otets Paisii 40; s/d/apt 82/117/154 lv; aW)
In keeping with its location across from the Roman Odeon, this hotel features Roman-style columns in some rooms and an elegant old-world feel throughout. Remarkably, for Bulgaria, the attached restaurant has a creative and extensive vegan menu, as well as sophisticated options for carnivores.
5Eating
When it comes to dining, Plovdiv is one of Bulgaria's stand-out cities. Bakeries and cafes abound (especially in Kapana and along ul Knyaz Aleksandâr), while the old town is lined with traditional Bulgarian eateries, ranging from casual mehanas (taverns) to those with refined twists on classic Balkan dishes and Italian cuisine. It's rarely necessary to reserve, and most restaurants offer continuous service.
Klebarnitsa KapanaBAKERY$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0882330773; ul Ioakim Gruev 20; h9am-7pm; v)
This bakery has a sociable twist, with places to perch while you tuck into oven-warm bread, fresh pastries and other goodies.
DreamsCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-627 143; http://dreams-plovdiv.com; pl Stambolov; sandwiches from 3 lv; h8am-11pm; W)
This reliable cafe is anchored in prime people-watching territory, near the foaming fountains at pl Stambolov where shoppers, lovers and gelato-lickers linger. Sandwiches, pancakes and pastries dominate its menu of light meals, though the coffees and luminous cocktails might extend your stay. The outdoor tables are most popular, but there’s also a spacious upstairs hall.
Grazhdanski KlubBULGARIAN$$
(Citizens' Club; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-624 139; ul Stoyan Chalukov 1; mains 8-15 lv; h8am-1am Mon-Fri, 10am-1am Sat & Sun; W)
A local favourite, this fabulous nook serves hefty portions of Bulgarian salads, grills and satch (meat and vegetables served on a hotplate), only a totter down the hill from the Roman Amphitheatre. Its cool, green courtyard is a haven in hotter months; inside is cosy.
Rahat TepeBULGARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878450259; www.rahat-tepe.com; ul Dr Chomakov 20; mains 7-12 lv; h10am-midnight; W)
Hands down the winner when it comes to shady beer-garden dining and lively atmosphere, Rahat Tepe's meals follow a simple formula: fresh, unfussy and filling. Satch (meat and vegetables on a hot plate) are enormous; salads and kebabs are similarly generous. Service gets chaotic at weekends, but it's ideal for a nosh after clambering around Nebet Tepe's ruins.
GustoITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-623 711; www.gustobg.com; ul Otets Paisii 26; mains 6-14 lv; h9am-1am)
A few steps from pl Stambolov, Gusto strikes an agreeable note between sophisticated and friendly. There are diner-style booths upstairs; punters fight for several outdoor tables downstairs on the pedestrianised street. Choose from pizzas and great-value pasta dishes (from 6.50 lv), or slightly pricier, though beau
tifully executed, medleys such as duck with blueberries (14 lv) and sage-scented pork robed in prosciutto (10 lv).
Puldin RestaurantBULGARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-631 720; ul Knyaz Tseretelev 8; mains 15 lv; h8am-midnight)
Within the walls of an early 19th-century Dervish monastery, Puldin immediately impresses with its huge courtyard fresco of a wedding. Befitting the rustic setting, meals are traditionally Bulgarian, such as kebabs and platters of smoky local cheese.
oHebros RestaurantBULGARIAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-625 929; ul K Stoilov 51; mains 15-27 lv; W)
Genteel service and a tranquil setting is exactly what you would expect from the restaurant of the boutique Hebros Hotel. Classic Bulgarian flavours are gently muddled with Western European influences, creating mouthwatering morsels such as Smilyan beans with parmesan, rabbit with prunes, and grilled sea bream.
MemoryEUROPEAN$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-626 103; http://memorybg.net; pl Saedinenie 3; mains 15-25 lv; h11am-1am)
Candlelit tables in a secluded courtyard make Memory a venue to impress, with soul and jazz tunes completing the sultry mood. Its forte is creative interpretations of Western European flavours, such as lamb with mint risotto, and duck nestled in parsnip purée. Everything is lovingly presented, and whisked to tables by polite (if slightly stiff) waiting staff.
HemingwayINTERNATIONAL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-267 350; www.hemingway.bg; ul Gurko 10; mains 9-30 lv; h9am-1am)
Loosely channelling the cheek and chic of 1920s Paris with a modern twist, this classy spot near the Roman Odeon whips up some of Plovdiv's best dishes from a menu that borrows the best of Italian, French and American cuisines. Enjoy the dilemma of choosing from truffled parmesan fries, Pernod king prawns and mustard steak.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Plovdiv’s nightspots are widespread. Several vivacious spots occupy the Kapana district, which means ‘the trap’, referring to its tight streets in the areas north of pl Dzhumaya, between ul Rayko Daskalov to the west and bul Tsar Boris Obedinitel to the east.
Note that clubs undergo sporadic name changes, sometimes closing and reopening under new management – double-check locally with a free nightlife booklet such as Programata.
oBasquiat Wine & ArtWINE BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0895460493; https://basquiat.alle.bg; ul Bratya Pulievi 4; h9am-midnight)
A smooth funk soundtrack and great selection of local wines lure an arty crowd to this small Kapana bar. House wines start at 2 lv per glass; for something more memorable, the malina (raspberry-scented) wine packs a syrupy punch.
Kotka i MishkaBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878407578; ul Hristo Dyukmedjiev 14; h10am-midnight)
The crowd at this hole-in-the-wall craft-beer hang-out spills onto the street – such is the bar's deserved popularity, even against stiff competition in buzzing Kapana, but it's too chilled to warrant its hipster label. Decorations – such as hamster cages hanging from the ceiling – of the industrial-feel brick bar are a nod to the name, meaning 'cat and mouse'.
Monkey HouseCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0889678333; ul Zlatarska 3; h10am-11pm)
Coffee-lovers can rest easy in the stripped-bare decor of Monkey House, purveyors of Plovdiv's best flat white. The interior is ornamented with jaunty hallmarks such as bicycles and moustachioed pillows; seats range from tree stumps and wheelbarrows to comfy chairs; and light bulbs dangle on ropes from the beamed ceiling. It's terribly good fun, and the coffee's even better. Cocktails emerge after sundown.
Vino CultureWINE BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0892001926; ul Otets Paisii 5; h5-11pm)
Opening up from the blink-and-you'll-miss-it exterior is an airy brick-walled space where staff truly know their vintages. Delicious Bulgarian wines start at 2 lv per glass, while mixed Spanish and Italian tapas such as pan tumaca (tomato bread) and cured hams (from 3.30 lv) provide enough energy for you to sample another drop.
SandakBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888938075; www.facebook.com/whiskybarsandak; ul Abadzhiyska 10; h5pm-midnight)
Take a seat on the outdoor military storage boxes, or huddle up within this novel whisky bar in Kapana. The crowd is spirited, and there are occasional guitar-driven live-music acts to keep things fizzing until late.
Morado Bar & DinnerBAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0896665213; ul Avksentiy Veleshki 19; h10am-late)
This glamorous venue marries cocktails, live music and pan-European dining on an open-air verandah. Events range from DJ sets and risqué dance shows to retro music nights or screenings of sports or music.
Dolce FelliniCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0894540709; http://dolcefellini.com; ul General Gurko 15; ice cream 3 lv; h7.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 8.30am Sat & Sun)
Gelato flavours, from cookie to lemon, as well as dainty patisserie, custard puddings and smooth coffee seduce passers-by at this exceptional Italian-style cafe.
Bar Maria LuizaBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0890356394; bul Maria Luiza 15; h8am-4am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; W)
Too pretty to be merely a dive bar, the Maria Luiza has dedicated owners who keep adapting the decor to suit their whims. The colourful downstairs is particularly stylish, vaguely reminiscent of 1920s Paris. There's a dedicated local following.
Art Club NylonBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/clubnylon; ul Giorgi Benkovski 8; hnoon-4am Mon-Sat; W)
A bastion of bohemia, this damp, bare-bones but always interesting spot hosts rock and indie bands, themed nights and plenty of drunken, late-night literary chatter.
Rock Bar DownloadBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/rockbardownload; ul Ioakim Gruev 24; h10am-11pm)
Hard rock and metal set this bar vibrating – when the football's not on, that is. It's only Download's pre-midnight closing time that doesn't feel rock 'n' roll. Check the Facebook page for live events; some solid heavy-metal acts pass through.
Apartment 101BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul William Gladston 8; h10am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
A hip – but not painfully so – spot in a wonderfully ramshackle building with chill-out music and occasional live acts.
3Entertainment
Recent foreign films in original languages (with Bulgarian subtitles) screen at Lucky House of Cinema ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0889200601; http://boxoffice.bg; ul Gladston 1; tickets 7 lv) and Kino Eccoplexx ( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-644 004; http://kinoeccoplexx.com; bul 6 Septemvri 128; tickets from 6 lv).
MarmaladLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Bratya Pulievi 3; h9am-2am)
This two-storey place is one of Kapana’s best for live music. Split across a bar and a live-music venue, Marmalad hosts rock bands, karaoke, retro-themed nights and DJ sets.
Nikolai Masalitinov Dramatic TheatreTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %032-271 274; www.dtp.bg; ul Knyaz Aleksandâr 38; hbox office 10.30am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri)
This historic theatre, dating to 1881, is one of the best in Bulgaria, and features Bulgarian-language performances ranging from Shakespeare and Greek tragedy to modern drama.
State Opera HouseOPERA
( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-625 553; http://operaplovdiv.bg; ul Gladston 15)
Classic and modern European operas are performed in Bulgarian at this distinguished hall. Check the website for performances at other venues, including at Plovdiv's Roman Amphitheatre.
PLOVDIV 2019
Events ranging from avant-garde fashion shows to spoken word and jazz will reach fever-pitch in the run-up to, and throughout, Plovdiv's tenure as European Capital of Culture 2019. Browse upcoming festivities on http://plovdiv2019.eu.
7Shopping
The Kapana quarter, home to the city's artists and young creative community, is increasingly a great place to browse for jewellery and handmade souvenirs. Trendy clothes and shoe stores line the pedestrian mall ul Knyaz Aleksandâr. Continuing up
ul Sâborna, you’ll find several antique shops. Paintings by Bulgarian artists are sold in various cafes and galleries.
8Information
Tourist Information offices are located in the centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-656 794; www.visitplovdiv.com; pl Tsentralen 1; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) and in the old town ( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-620 453; ul Sâborna 22; h9am-1pm & 2pm-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Sat & Sun).
MrezhataINTERNET
( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-628 501; ul Patriarh Evtimii 28; per hr 2 lv; h24hr)
This internet cafe, a short walk from the pedestrian street, is almost always open.
Plovdiv HospitalHOSPITAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-959 221; www.mbal.net; bul Bulgaria 234)
The general hospital, 3km northwest of Plovdiv's old town, has an emergency ward.
Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 62