8Getting There & Away
At the heart of Bulgarian Thrace, Plovdiv is the region's main transport hub.
Air
Plovdiv Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.plovdivairport.com) is approximately 12km from town. At the time of research, Ryanair was offering flights between Plovdiv and London Stansted; other promised routes have been slow to materialise. There's no airport shuttle bus; get a Violet Taxi to the centre (around 15 lv).
Bus
Plovdiv has three bus stations, Yug, Rodopi and Sever; find more info on www.avtogara-plovdiv.info. Schedules can be found on www.bgrazpisanie.com.
Most destinations of interest to travellers are served from Yug bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-626 937; bul Hristo Botev 47), diagonally opposite the train station and a 15-minute walk from the centre. A taxi from the centre costs about 5 lv; alternatively, local buses 7, 20 and 26 (0.80 lv) stop across the main street outside the station, on bul Hristo Botev. Both public and private buses operate from Yug bus station, and there's often no way of predicting whether you'll be getting a big, modern bus or a cramped minibus – though the latter is particularly likely for rural destinations.
The following services leave from Yug bus station.
Destination Cost (lv) Duration Frequency
Assenovgrad 1.20 30min half-hourly
Bansko 14 3½hr 2 daily
Blagoevgrad 13-15 3hr 3 daily
Haskovo 4 1hr 5 daily
Hisar 3.80 1hr 12 daily
Karlovo 3.90-5 1½hr 16 daily
Perushtitsa 3 40min 17 daily
Sliven 10 3hr 5 daily
Sofia 8-14 2½hr half-hourly
Stara Zagora 5-7 1½hr 10 daily
Varna 22-26 7hr 2-5 daily
Rodopi bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-657 828) is accessed through the train station underpass. Services include the following.
Destination Cost (lv) Duration Frequency
Bachkovo 4 1hr hourly
Chepelare 8.50 2hr hourly
Devin 7 3hr 2 daily
Karlovo 5 1hr 13 daily
Pamporovo 9 2-2½hr hourly
Smolyan 10 2½-3hr 11 daily
Sever bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %032-953 705; www.hebrosbus.com; ul Dimitar Stambolov 2), 3.5km from the old town in the northern suburbs, is accessible by local bus 99 and has the following services.
Destination Cost (lv) Duration Frequency
Burgas 20-26 4hr 5 daily
Hisar 4 45min-1hr 1 daily
Kazanlâk 9 2hr 3 daily
Karlovo 5 1hr 1 daily
Nesebâr 22 4½-5hr 1 daily
Veliko Târnovo 18 4½hr 3 daily
For Ruse, take a bus from Sever bus station to Veliko Târnovo and change there.
INTERNATIONAL DESTINATIONS
Union-Ivkoni (www.union-ivkoni.bg) serves Athens (127 lv, four hours, one daily) and Metro (www.metroturizm.com.tr) operates buses to İstanbul (40 lv, seven hours) several times day. Book online or buy tickets in Yug station.
Other private companies offer services to Thessaloniki (70 lv, eight hours, one daily), Paris (247 lv, two days, one daily), Vienna (130 lv, 18 hours, one daily) and other European destinations; buy tickets in Yug station.
Timetables are available on www.bgrazpisanie.com.
Train
The following direct services leave from Plovdiv's train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; bul Hristo Botev).
Destination Cost (lv) Duration (hr) Frequency (daily)
Burgas 14.60 6 2
Karlovo 3.90 1½ 6
Sofia 9 3 15
Stara Zagora 5.70 1½–2 13
Svilengrad 7.40-8.40 3½ 2
Varna 18.10-21.60 6 4
It's also possible to connect to more services to Burgas (up to five daily) via Karnobat (12 lv, 3½ to four hours, daily) or Ajtos (13 lv, 3½ to four hours, three daily). Take a train to Dimitrovgrad (4 lv to 5 lv, one to 1½ hours, hourly) for more services to Stara Zagora and Svilengrad.
The train station is well organised, though the staff doesn't speak English. Computer screens at the station entrance and in the underpass leading to the platforms list recent arrivals and upcoming departures. At the time of writing, there was no luggage storage service in operation.
International bus and train tickets can be booked along with domestic tickets at Yug bus station and the train station.
8Getting Around
Plovdiv is best experienced on foot. Much of the old town is off-limits to cars during daylight hours. Arriving by taxi during the day, your ‘final destination’ will be the Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa on ul Sâborna. At night the street is usually open. Although most taxi drivers conscientiously use meters, a few offenders charge rates as opprobrious as 4 lv per kilometre (especially from the airport); the daytime base rate should be around 0.9 lv per kilometre, slightly higher at night.
Major car-hire brands such as Avis (%0885554445; Plovdiv Airport) have branches at Plovdiv Airport but they are usually only staffed to coincide with flight arrivals and departures. If booking pick-up from the airport outside of flight times, make your arrival time clear to the agency. Motoroads (%0886175206; www.motoroads.com) can arrange car hire (from 17 lv per day) with pick-up from central locations in Plovdiv.
WORTH A TRIP
BACHKOVO MONASTERY & AROUND
The area around Plovdiv is filled with interesting things to see and do. About 30km south of Plovdiv stands the magnificent Bachkovo Monastery (www.bachkovskimanastir.com; Bachkovo; monastery free, refectory 6 lv, museum 2 lv, ossuary 6 lv; h6am-10pm), founded in 1083. Most of the complex dates from the 17th century onwards, with the Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa (1604) as its colourful centrepiece. The church is decorated with 1850s frescoes by renowned artist Zahari Zograf and houses a much-cherished icon of the Virgin Mary.
The rust-red ruin of the Red Church (Perushtitsa; 3 lv; h9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 8am-5pm Oct-Mar), a late Roman church, creates an enigmatic silhouette in the fragrant meadowlands outside Perushtitsa, 20km southwest of Plovdiv. The visitors centre tells the story of this rare brick construction, dating to the 5th century, while wooden walkways allow access to its skeletal remains, where you can glimpse faint frescoes. The ruin is 2km north of Perushtitsa town.
More than 3500 years ago, the Bessian tribe of ancient Thrace kept a sanctuary to the god of wine amid these verdant meadows. These days Bessa Valley Winery (%0889499992; www.bessavalley.com; Ognyanovo village; h9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri), 30km west of Plovdiv, likes to think it's playing a part in preserving this heritage. Its quality merlot, syrah and cabernet sauvignon are sipped across Bulgaria and beyond. Book well in advance for tasting tours.
From sleeping to sipping to enjoying spa treatments, your every movement can be in reverence to juicy Thracian wines at this fabulous Todoroff Wine & Spa (%03142-2166, 0896689442; www.todoroff-hotel.com; Brestovitsa; s/d/apt from 65/95/175 lv; paW) in Brestovitsa, 15km southwest of Plovdiv. Use of the spa and traditional sauna comes included in the price.
Further afield, 50km south of Plovdiv, three Kosovo houses (%03342-2333; www.selokosovo.com; Kosovo Village; d 70-80 lv, apt 80-120 lv; hmid-Feb–early Jan) have been faithfully renovated in stone and wood to form a unique lodging concept. Each room overflows with traditional Rodopi touches, such as crimson rugs and polished antique furnishings.
Rodopi Mountains РОДОПИ ПЛАНИНА
Vast stretches of serene pine forests, perilously steep gorges and hundreds of remarkable caves characterise the enthralling Rodopi Mountains. Covering nearly 15,000 sq km of territory, the mountains tumble across into Greece. Much of the border between the two countries is determined by the Rodopi range (85% of which is Bulgarian).
The ski resorts of Pamporovo and Chepelare, and spa town Devin receive a healthy supply of foreign visitors. But outside these areas, the region remains one of Bulgaria's wildest. In this expanse of majestic, thickly packed conifer forests, nearly 300 bird species have been spotted, as well as brown bears, wild goats and wolves. The Rodopi Mountains are exceptionally ric
h in wildflowers, including indigenous violets, tulips and the unique silivriak – a fragile flower said to have sprung up from the blood of Orpheus, the semidivine father of music, after he was torn to pieces by the frenzied bacchantes.
Chepelare ЧЕПЕЛАРЕ
Elev 1150m / Pop 5800
Encircled by forested hills and scented with pine, low-key Chepelare is a calmer alternative to skiing hub Pamporovo, 11km south. The village spreads along the Chepelare River, with abundant guesthouses and a couple of museums to browse when you aren't on the slopes. The ski area is limited, but boasts one of Bulgaria’s longest ski runs. A small trickle of cyclists and hikers pass through during summer, when the village is very quiet.
2Activities
Skiing
Humble Chepelare lives and breathes skiing. There's a ski factory, ski museum (ul Vasil Dechev 25; 1.50 lv; h9am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Tue-Sat), and the village’s most famous daughter is a superstar skier. Chepelare-born athlete Ekaterina Dafovska was the biathlon gold medallist of 1998’s Nagano Winter Olympics. Dafovska's successors can be seen thundering down Mechi Chal I (3150m), Chepelare's competition-level slope, while mere mortals zoom down Mechi Chal II (5250m), itself a 720m vertical drop.The chairlift, 2km south on the Pamporovo road, is signposted. Hire gear at Orion Ski (%03051-2142; www.orionski.com; Chepelare) and enquire at the tourist information centre about ski schools.
Chepelare Ski ResortSKIING
(%03051-3131; http://chepelaresport.com; day pass adult/child 40/24 lv; hDec-Mar)
Schuss down 11.4km of pistes at Chepelare's small three-lift ski area, 2km south of the village. It's best suited to beginner and intermediate skiers. The area hasn't been very snow-sure in recent years, but there are snow cannons to top it up.
Hiking
From May to September, knot your hiking boots and strike out on a trail from Chepelare village.
Chepelare Panorama Walk the hour-long 'Path of Health' for views of the village; start by walking north 100m from Sveta Bogoroditsa Church before turning right up the hill.
Chepelare–Rozhen Circuit This five-hour trail leads from Chepelare to the Astronomical Observatory in Rozhen, before returning via Progled village.
Chepelare–Mechi Chal peak You'll need six or seven hours to trek to the top of Mechi Chal, take in the 'bear grave' site and wind back to the village.
4Sleeping & Eating
The majority of accommodation in Chepelare consists of family-run guesthouses with dainty spa or sauna facilities. Outside ski season and the high summer months of June to August, things are quiet; booking well in advance is recommended.
The tourist offices in Chepelare and Smolyan can book private rooms (from 20 lv per person with shared bathroom). Hotel prices increase by around 20% in winter.
oHotel ShokyGUESTHOUSE$
(%03051-3343, 0887444004; www.hotelshoky.com; ul 24 Mai 70; d/apt 40/65 lv; pW)
This excellent-value guesthouse, on a quiet residential lane 750m west of the main road, is run by a family of champion skiers (their trophies are amassed in the reception area). Needless to say, advice about winter sports and hiking is insightful, and rooms are spotless, with classic Rodopi features such as wooden ceilings. There's a small spa and sauna area (5 lv). Breakfast extra 4 lv to 5 lv.
Hotel St GeorgeHOTEL$
(%0896797326; www.stgeorgehotel.bg; ul Belomorska 6; d/apt from 36/50 lv; pW)
Simple, cosy rooms and well-equipped modern apartments fill this traditional stone building at the northern end of Chepelare, on the main Plovdiv–Smolyan road. Service is friendly and thorough, and there's a ski storage room. Breakfast is an extra 5 lv.
Hotel SavovHOTEL$$
(%0888687975; http://hotel-savov.eu; ul Vasil Dechev 7; d/tr/ste from 51/61/82 lv; pW)
Just north of the main square, this homely place offers large, airy doubles, and cosy suites with sitting areas. Staff can help with bicycle, car or ski rental. You can buy breakfast from the restaurant downstairs.
Vienski SalonBULGARIAN$
(%03051-4486; ul Vasil Dechev 14; mains 5-8 lv; h8am-11pm)
Not quite a 'Viennese salon', as the name suggests, but this unfussy spot serves everything from breakfast banitsa (cheese pastry) to Rodopi specialities such as grilled fish, through to pizza and syrupy baklava. It's 200m north of the main square.
8Information
The Tourist Information Centre (%03051-2110; [email protected]; ul Dicho Petrov 1a; h8.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm) can provide info on buses, hiking, skiing and local attractions.
8Getting There & Away
The bus station is across a footbridge, 200m northeast of the square. Buses leave hourly for Smolyan (4 lv, one hour), via Pamporovo. Between 6am and 6.30pm, regular services reach Plovdiv (9 lv, 90 minutes).
DON'T MISS
HIKING IN THE RODOPI MOUNTAINS
Exploring the idyllic forested region around Chepelare, Smolyan, Shiroka Lûka and Devin is the high point for nature lovers here.
Good maps are essential, such as Domino's Western Rhodope Mountains map (1:100,000). Tourist offices in Pamporovo, Chepelare and Smolyan irregularly stock the English-language West Rhodopean Region or Western Rhodope Mountains maps (1:100,000). Though several years old, Julian Perry’s Mountains of Bulgaria remains a good guide for walkers. It describes a five- to seven-day trek from Hizha Studenents, near Pamporovo, to Hizha Rodoposki Partizanin, near Hrabrino, about 14km southwest of Plovdiv.
For shorter hikes, base yourself in Devin and choose from several marked trails. En route to Trigrad, via Nastan village (6km south), look out for the 'elephant rock'.
There are several good options for hikers looking for day walks, though trail markings are poorly maintained:
Batak–Hizha Teheran About four hours one way.
Chepelare–Hizha Igrev About three hours one way. From there, continue to Zabardo (4½ hours), Shiroka Lûka (six hours) or Pamporovo (eight hours).
Pamporovo–Progled An (easy) five-hour return trip.
Smolyan–Hizha Smolyanski Ezera About three hours one way.
If you're tackling multiday hikes, find details of hizhas (mountain huts) on www.bulgarian-mountains.com.
Pamporovo ПАМПОРОВО
Elev 1650m
One of Bulgaria’s four major ski resorts, southerly Pamporovo enjoys plenty of blue skies above its spruce-lined pistes. As is the case with Bansko, the country's premier spot in the Pirin Mountains, the ruthless quest for expansion has left Pamporovo’s forests scarred, and has littered its skyline with cranes and an ever-increasing number of apartment blocks. But unlike Bansko, there’s no historic nucleus, just a resort that sprawls along kilometres of pedestrian-unfriendly roads.
Outside busy winter season, Pamporovo is quiet (except for its many building sites); and its lack of a meaningful centre and non-skiing attractions means it can be quietly skipped during the summer.
2Activities
Pamporovo claims the title of Bulgaria’s winter-sports sunshine capital, with around 250 days of sun each year. Significant snowfall between mid-December and mid-April usually brings great conditions for snowboarders and skiers, though recent winters have been unreliable regarding snowfall.
Pamporovo’s smallish ski area is served by nine drag lifts and five chairlifts. There are 25km of pisted runs (the longest more than 4km), most of them suited to beginner and intermediate skiers and boarders, with a highest point of 1937m. Additionally, it has more than 30km of cross-country trails. A two-day lift pass costs 108 lv per person, though prices increase each year.
Ski instruction is easiest to organise as a multiday package. Joining a ski school for four-hour lessons over three days costs about 90 lv, and private instruction is considerably higher. Many instructors speak English or German.
More than a dozen places offer gear rental; many of them are attached to hotels. Prices vary, but for three days, renting a set of skis, boots and poles costs from 60 lv. Rent via the Sport Shop (%0887636000; www.perelikpamporovo.com;
hDec-Mar) in Hotel Perelik, or book on http://pamporovo.me for the best prices (you can pick up your gear by the ski lifts or at Malina Village). The best deals often involve bundling together accommodation, lift passes and gear hire.
4Sleeping & Eating
Pamporovo's hotel scene mostly involves all-inclusive resorts geared towards winter-sports tourists, and the vast majority snooze outside the frosty months. Reserve several months ahead for winter; for summer, book ahead to ensure your desired hotel is operating.
oAparthotel KameliaHOTEL$$
(%0309-50 500; www.kamelia-hotel-pamporovo.com; 1-/3-bedroom apt 60/100 lv; pW)
Airy apartments in this welcoming all-season hotel have oodles of space, and many overlook evergreen forests. The restaurant oozes Rodopi atmosphere with its big fire, wooden beams and woollen rugs; the luxurious pool is decorated with Grecian statues; and the spa centre (15 lv) has a tiled steam room and a jacuzzi. It's at the southern end of Pamporovo's sprawl, south of the main road.
There is a children's room and ski kindergarten, plus winter-sports gear storage. Prices double during ski season.
Malina VillageCHALET$$
(%0309-58 388; http://malina-pamporovo.com; 2-/4-person chalets from 82/125 lv; pW)
If Pamporovo's towering resort hotels don't appeal, bunk down in a cosy triangular chalet instead. The wooden huts in Malina Village, in western Pamporovo, are sprinkled among spruce forests, and each one has a small kitchen, living room and bathroom. It's a five-minute walk to the ski lifts.
8Information
Browse www.bulgariaski.com for snow reports, advice and accommodation information for all Bulgarian ski resorts, and check out http://pamporovo.me for specifics on Pamporovo events and lift-pass prices.
Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria Page 63