8Getting There & Away
Hourly Smolyan–Chepelare buses pass Pamporovo, as do Smolyan–Plovdiv and Smolyan–Sofia buses. Five daily buses from Sofia go directly to Pamporovo (22 lv, four hours), and regular buses leave from Plovdiv (12 lv, 2½ hours). The bus stop is at the ‘Ski Lift No 1’ chairlift at the central T-junction.
Smolyan СМОЛЯН
Elev 1000m / Pop 30,640
Sprawling Smolyan is the southern Rodopi Mountains’ administrative centre, and a convenient base for hikers. Steep and forested mountains rise abruptly on its southern flank, lending a lovely backdrop to a town that’s otherwise time-worn and gritty.
The town is an alternative place to stay if you're skiing Pamporovo or Chepelare, though it's certainly not the most beautiful. It’s the transport hub for villages such as Shiroka Lûka and Devin, and a base for exploring the seven (somewhat swampy) Smolyan Lakes and the caves of Golubovitsa and Uhlovitsa.
1Sights
Historical MuseumMUSEUM
(%0301-62 727; www.museumsmolyan.eu; Dicho Petrov 3; 5 lv; h9am-6pm Tue-Sat May-Sep, 9am-noon & 1-5pm Tue-Sat Oct-Apr)
Larger and much better presented than many of Bulgaria's regional museums, this multifloor exhibition space preens from a steep hill behind Smolyan's civic centre. The ground floor displays Palaeolithic artefacts and Thracian weaponry, with a Thracian helmet and doe-headed bronze lamp among its standout artefacts. The upper floors feature whimsically arranged folk costumes, Rodopi weaving and woodcarving, and fantastically hairy kukeri outfits (worn at New Year celebrations). No photography allowed.
Smolyan Art GalleryGALLERY
(%0301-62 328; Dicho Petrov 7; 3 lv; h9am-noon & 1-5pm)
This excellent gallery features 1800 paintings, sketches and sculptures by local, national and foreign artists. Especially interesting are the upper floor Rodopi realism works.
Cathedral of Saint VissarionCATHEDRAL
(h8am-6pm)
This Orthodox cathedral is the third-largest in Bulgaria, and impossible to miss on Smolyan's main street. It's topped by a UFO-like dome, which measures 17m in diameter. Aptly, this space-age spiritual site is right opposite the planetarium.
WORTH A TRIP
SMOLYAN'S MYSTERIOUS CAVES
Two caves south of Smolyan are worth a detour. Visitors can explore the 330m of passageways in Uhlovitsa Cave (%0889121014; adult/child 4/2 lv; h10am-4pm daily summer, Wed-Sun winter), 25km south of Smolyan and 3km northeast of Mogilitsa village, which fires the imagination with its rock formations and waterfalls (most spectacular in winter). Entry is by hourly guided tour. Located 3km south of Uhlovitsa Cave, off the road between Smolyan and Mogilitsa, the Golubovitsa Cave is only accessible by boat, as the first 25m or so is completely underwater. After that, you walk by lantern-light. Special equipment and a guide is essential; ask at Smolyan's tourist office.
4Sleeping
oThree Fir Trees HousePENSION$
(%0301-81 028, 088855988; www.trieli.hit.bg; ul Srednogorets 1; s/d/apt with shared bathroom 30/40/80 lv; iW)
Welcomes rarely come warmer than at this relaxing, family-run guesthouse, 400m east of the main bus station. Rooms have a pleasant, cosy style and there’s an excellent breakfast (5 lv) featuring produce fresh from the garden. The helpful English- and German-speaking owner can arrange walking tours and rental cars, plus there's a good-value laundry service (6 lv).
Hotel SpartakGUESTHOUSE$
(%0301-64 632; www.hotelspartak.bg; ul Spartak 21; s/d/apt from 30/40/100 lv; pW)
This hospitable 14-room guesthouse has a quiet location on a residential street south of the main road, 800m west of the cathedral. Rooms are simple, with occasional Rodopi trimmings such as carved wooden bed frames, and there's a smart mehana below. Breakfast can be bought from the attached restaurant.
5Eating & Drinking
Starata KâshtaBULGARIAN$
(ul Studenska 2; mains 6-9 lv; h4.30pm-midnight)
The attractive National Revival–style house has a few rough-hewn outdoor tables and benches, and a menu of Bulgarian classics such as grills and cheese-strewn salads. It’s up the steps from bul Bulgaria.
Riben DarSEAFOOD$$
(%0301-63 220; ul Snezhanka 16; mains 6-12 lv)
In the western neighbourhood of Nevyasta, this hospitable restaurant and guesthouse specialises in seafood, such as mountain trout. Riben Dar is at the top of the town, and has ravishing Rodopi views; drive or take a taxi (3 lv to 5 lv).
8Information
Tourist Office (%0301-62 530; www.smolyan.com; bul Bulgaria 5; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) An excellent source of info for Smolyan and nearby towns and for outdoor activities; can help book tours, and provides transport information.
8Getting There & Away
Most buses to/from Smolyan use the main bus station (%0301-63 104; bul Bulgaria 85) at Smolyan’s western end. Six daily buses serve Sofia (25 lv, 3½ hours). Hourly buses reach Plovdiv (10 lv, 2½ to three hours), via Chepelare (6 lv, one hour) and Pamporovo (4 lv, 30 minutes) between 6am and 7pm. Buses also depart from here to Shiroka Lûka and Devin (8 lv, 90 minutes, six daily on weekdays, one to three at weekends).
WORTH A TRIP
THE CAVES OF TRIGRAD & YAGODINA
The most accessible and developed Rodopi caves are south of Devin, near Trigrad and Yagodina. Admission to both caves includes a guided tour.
Trigrad Cave (Dyavolskoto Gurlo Peshtera; %0889903642; Trigrad; adult/student 3/2 lv; h9am-4pm May-Sep, shorter hours rest of year), also called 'Devil’s Throat Cave', was burrowed out by the Trigrad River over millennia. A 20-minute guided tour, requiring three or four tourists, leads you into grottoes with dangling stalactites. As you descend into the cave, you can hear a 42m-high waterfall. Exiting involves a daunting set of steep steps. You'll need private transport to reach the cave, 2km north of Trigrad village via a narrow mountain road.
Yagodina (%0889903642; www.yagodinska-peshtera.com; 5 lv; h9am-4.15pm May-Sep, shorter hours rest of yr) is the Rodopi Mountains' longest cave at 8.5km, and its many abysses and labyrinthine tunnels also make it one of Bulgaria’s deepest grottoes. The 45-minute tours leave on the hour and highlight curtain-like rock formations and knotty stalagmites, resembling towers of profiteroles. The cave is a winding 20km drive south of Devin
Devin ДЕВИН
Pop 7200
Thirsty travellers gulp Devin's waters long before they set foot in town. The name of this placid mountain town is emblazoned on one of Bulgaria's bottled water brands, and its famed mineral springs entice bathers and curists for a long soak. Spa hotels ably meet the demand, but otherwise the town is tranquil to a fault: there are few standout attractions and restaurants.
Still, this sleepy town, clasped by spruce forests, is a good base for exploring two of the Rodopi Mountains' major caves: Trigrad and Yagodina. Luxuriant spa treatments and a fragrant ecotrail provide further excuses to dawdle in Devin.
1Sights & Activities
The lovely Struilitsa Ecotrail follows the Devinska River from the mineral baths up to the remnants of a medieval settlement. From here, you can climb further to Kavurskoto Kale, the remains of a stronghold where locals once made a desperate last stand against the Turkish onslaught. This triangular route, returning to the baths, takes about three hours.
4Sleeping
The bliss of snoozing in a plush hotel, after sweaty stints in a sauna, is an excellent reason to stay the night in Devin. Midrange to top-end spa hotels dominate the scene, but check credentials carefully: some guesthouses claim to be 'spa hotels' but have little more than a tepid jacuzzi.
Spa Hotel EvridikaHOTEL$$
(%0888137222, 03041-3727; www.spahotelevridika.com; ul Osvobozhdenie 25; s/d/apt 69/89/102 lv; aWs)
This warm, intimate place has a handful of doubles and roomy apartments with kitchenettes, all with balconies peering over spruce trees. Service is personalised and friendly, and there's a restaurant with Bulgarian and international fare, a summer garden, and the (literal) topper: a s
ky bar with mineral pool and jacuzzi, with sweeping views of the Rodopi forests. All in all, this is hard to beat for the price.
Hotel EliteHOTEL$$
(%03041-2240; www.elite-devin.com; ul Undola 2; s/d/apt 50/65/80 lv; paW)
On the central pedestrian street, the Elite has large rooms with gleaming modern bathrooms; doubles have bathtubs. The basement mini-spa includes a sauna, a jacuzzi and massage treatments (from 25 lv). Note that there is an extra 15 lv charge for children aged between two and 14.
oComplex IsmenaHOTEL, VILLA$$$
(%0884707970, 03041-2757; www.ismena.bg; ul Osvobozhdenie; d/ste/4-bed chalets 140/166/266 lv; hMar-Dec; pWs)
Mock-Tudor villas sit serenely beneath the Rodopi Mountains at this luxurious spa complex. Villas have balconies, polished wooden floors and plenty of space, with trimmings such as flowers and fuzzy blankets adding a hint of alpine flair. The wellness centre has the full monty of indoor and outdoor (seasonal) pools, a steam bath, a sauna and massage treatments. Its location away from Devin's centre enhances the leisurely feel.
The hotel website often features promotional pricing, so book ahead.
Orpheus Spa & ResortHOTEL$$$
(%03041-2041; www.orpheus-spa.com; Tzvetan Zangov 14; d/ste 132/182 lv; pWs)
Devin's poshest address is this giant gingerbread mansion, overlooking a pool crowned with an enormous faux crystal. Rooms are ornate but have traditional features in the wood-framed windows and decor. The spa centre feels decadent, with an Egyptian-style tiled hammam, and treatments involving gold dust, diamonds and caviar.
5Eating
In a town where glamorous hotels contrast a rather humdrum town centre, the best restaurants are often within spa complexes and guesthouses.
Starata VarbaBULGARIAN$$
(%0886842844; ul Rodopi; mains 9-16; h10am-11pm)
The 'Old Willow Tree' is a local favourite for its juicy salads, frisbee-sized omelettes and meat dishes, grilled simply with a squeeze of lemon or drowned in forest-mushroom sauce. The outdoor seating on a wooden deck adds to the appeal. It's south of the stream at the eastern end of ul Rodopi.
Oriental RestaurantTURKISH$$
(%03041-2041; www.orpheus-spa.com; Tzvetan Zangov 14; mains 8-16 lv; W)
Within the Orpheus Spa & Resort, the Oriental serves Turkish kebabs and is decorated with the requisite couches, pillows and gauze.
8Information
Find ATMs along the main street and at Orpheus Spa & Resort.
There is no municipal tourist office but the regional tourist office in Smolyan can help with maps, public transport timetables and information across the region. Devin Museum (ul Orfei; 1 lv; h10am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Sat) and hotel staff are best placed to give local advice.
8Getting There & Away
From Devin bus station (%03041-2077; ul Osvobozhdenie 24), services reach Smolyan (5 lv, 1½ hours, six daily) via Shiroka Lûka and Plovdiv (7 lv, three hours, two daily). For Sofia, minibuses depart every other day; alternatively, catch a bus to Plovdiv, which has numerous bus and train connections to the capital.
Veliko Târnovo & Central Mountains
Shumen
Madara
Veliko Tarnovo
Around Veliko Tarnovo
Dryanovo Monastery
Tryavna
Etar
Lovech
Troyan
Hisar
Karlovo
Kazanlak
Shipka
Stara Zagora
Sliven
Veliko Târnovo & Central Mountains
Why Go?
Forbidding mountains and floral valleys compose the varied landscape at Bulgaria’s heart. What unites its perilous hills and colourful villages is revolutionary history, etched into the landscape.
In the Central Mountains, monasteries at Troyan and Dryanovo triumphed over repeated attempts to destroy them – even sheltering revolutionary fighters between their delicately frescoed walls. Just south in Koprivshtitsa, a town famed for its charming 19th-century mansions, the 1876 April Uprising brewed. Ensuing battles for Bulgaria's independence from Ottoman control unfolded just east, in thickly forested Shipka Pass.
The fortress at Veliko Târnovo, north of the mountain range and once the capital of the Bulgarian tsars, remains the region’s crowning attraction. Just as captivating is Kazanlâk’s Valley of the Roses, aflame with blooms each May and June, and the Thracian tombs in its surrounds. Little-explored intrigues lie east: Shumen’s colossal monuments, Madara’s archaeological reserve and the boulder-strewn hiking terrain around Sliven.
When to Go
AMay–Jun Experience rose festivals in and around Kazanlâk, and Koprivshtitsa's uprising re-enactment.
AAug–Sep Escape the heat while hiking in cooler climes in the Stara Planina.
AOct Enjoy magical Veliko Târnovo's Sound and Light Show under clear skies, along with its student-rejuvenated nightlife.
Best Places to Eat
A Han Hadji Nikoli
A Sevastokrator
A Magnolia
A Pri Hadjiyata
A Starata Loza
Best Places to Sleep
A Hotel-Mehana Gurko
A Hotel IT Shipka
A Camping Veliko Tarnovo
A Dream of Happiness
A Hotel Merien Palace
Veliko Târnovo & Central Mountains Highlights
1 Veliko Târnovo Striding along medieval ramparts and cobbled lanes in Bulgaria’s charismatic old capital.
2 Valley of the Roses Breathing the scent of fresh rose oil as Kazanlâk’s valleys begin to flower.
3 Shipka Pass Driving between hilltop monuments, golden church domes and a Soviet UFO.
4 Koprivshtitsa Delighting in the lovingly painted mansions across this preserved historic village.
5 Founders of the Bulgarian State Monument Craning your neck at futurist sculptures on Shumen's hilltop colossus.
6 Stara Planina Hiking the windswept wilds of Bulgaria’s grand ‘old mountain’.
7 Troyan Monastery Gasping at masterful 19th-century frescoes in this blushing sandstone monastery.
8 Emen Canyon Looking over steep views from this cliffside ecotrail towards a waterfall.
9 Tryavna Marvelling at hand-carved wood iconostases crafted by the ‘Tryavna school’.
a Etâr Strolling among quaint buildings and craft shops at touristy (but irresistible) Etâr.
History
Settlers have been drawn to this hilly swath of inland Bulgaria for millennia. Historians have unearthed traces of Palaeolithic cave dwellers in grottoes such as Bacho Kiro, as well as remnants of Neolithic settlements in the hills around modern Veliko Târnovo. Thracian tribes dominated the land until Romans marched in, establishing impressive cities such as Nikopolis-ad-Istrum, laying the first walls of Veliko Târnovo’s citadel and the mighty gates in Hisar, and fortifying existing Iron Age fortresses in Shumen.
From the 7th century, skirmishes between Byzantium and the emerging First Bulgarian Empire seemed never-ending, until defeats in central Bulgarian Pliska and Preslav signalled the end. The Byzantines enjoyed a decisive victory in the 11th century.
The region’s fortunes turned in 1185, when brothers Asen and Petâr energised an uprising that would finally cast off Byzantine rule for the Second Bulgarian Empire, with Veliko Târnovo (then Târnovgrad) as its capital. Good times rolled until 1393 when the Ottomans besieged Târnovgrad. Under 500 years of Ottoman control, treasured monasteries such as Dryanovo and Preobrazhenski were wrecked and the region’s significance dwindled. But rebellion was quietly being plotted in those same sacked monasteries, as well as revolutionary centres such as Koprivshtitsa.
The 1876 April Uprising finally loosened the chains: Târnovgrad was freed in the ensuing Russo-Turkish War, with its most decisive battles fought at Shipka Pass. The ensuing 18th- and 19th-century Bulgarian National Revival period bestowed wondrous architecture on towns such as Koprivshtitsa, Karlovo and Tryavna. From 1946 the co
mmunist regime suppressed some artistic life while bringing its own distinctive architecture to the fore, with notable remnants in Shumen and Shipka. But in the 21st century, preserving the legacy of Revival-era towns has taken priority.
Shumen ШУМЕН
Pop 87,000
Fans of Soviet-era design, rejoice. While Shumen's numerous concrete blocks don't inspire, an extraordinary brutalist monument peers down over the city. Sprinkling variety among this Soviet severity are Shumen's National Revival–era mansions, parks interlaced with walking trails, and a 3000-year-old fortress. Furthermore, the city's name is emblazoned on beer cans across Bulgaria, as the home of popular Shumensko pivo.
History
Settlements in Shumen date back to the 5th millennium BC. Thracians and then Romans settled and fortified today's Shumen. After the Turkic Bulgar migrations in the 6th century AD, nearby Veliki Preslav and Pliska became the centres of the medieval Bulgarian kingdom. In 1388 the Ottomans captured Shumen, and it became an important market town. In the final days of Ottoman domination, it was part of the Turks' strategic quadrangle (with Ruse, Silistra and Varna) of towns fortified against Russian advances in 1877. Reminders of Ottoman multi-ethnicity remain with Shumen's minority Jewish, Armenian and Muslim communities.
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