Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria
Page 72
Nature lovers also come to Burgas for the four lakes just outside the city, which are havens for abundant bird life. You can bird-watch, kayak or take an impromptu plunge into a salt pool.
History
Greek colonists from Apollonia (modern-day Sozopol) expanded their territory into the Burgas region as far back as the 6th century BC. Later, the Romans came along and Emperor Vespasian founded a city here, named Deultum, in the 1st century AD. The name Burgas first appeared on maps in the 17th century, when fisher folk from the wider region settled here. The city grew quickly after the completion of the railway from Plovdiv (1890) and the development of the port (1903). Today it’s a major industrial and commercial centre, home to the largest oil refinery in the Balkans.
Burgas
1Sights
1Archaeological MuseumB3
2Ethnographic MuseumB2
3Maritime ParkD2
4Natural History MuseumB3
5Soviet Army MonumentA1
4Sleeping
6Fotinov Guest HouseB3
7Hotel BulairC4
8Hotel LuxorC3
9Old House HostelC3
10Primoretz Grand Hotel & SpaC4
5Eating
11BMSB3
12BoulevardD2
13EthnoB2
14RoséB3
15SatsangaC3
6Drinking & Nightlife
16Bar NeptunD3
17MezettoA2
3Entertainment
18Burgas Opera HouseA3
19Sea Casino Cultural CentreD2
20Summer TheatreD1
1Sights
Maritime ParkPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Stretching lazily along the Black Sea coast and filled with manicured flower beds, fountains, busts of Bulgarian worthies, abstract sculptures and cafes, this park is the pride of Burgas. There are spectacular views over the sea from the terraces, and steps lead down from here toward the beach.
Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %056-843 541; www.burgasmuseums.bg; bul Aleko Bogoridi 21; adult/student 5/2 lv; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
This small museum houses a diverting collection of local finds including Neolithic flint tools, a wooden canoe from the 5th century BC, Greek statuary and the remarkably well-preserved wooden coffin of a Thracian chieftain. It's all well laid out and signposted in English.
Natural History MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %056-843 239; www.burgasmuseums.bg; ul Konstantin Fotinov 30; adult/student 5/2 lv; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Old-fashioned but informative displays on local flora, fauna and geology are on view here. Exhibits of rocks, seashells, butterflies and beetles occupy the ground floor, while upstairs there’s a collection of stuffed birds and animals.
Ethnographic MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %056-842 587; www.burgasmuseums.bg; ul Slavyanska 69; adult/student 5/2 lv; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Regional folk costumes, jewellery and furniture are on show at this museum, as well as displays covering the local weaving and fishing industries. Everything is labelled in Bulgarian.
Soviet Army MonumentMONUMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pl Troikata)
Standing sentinel over pl Troikata is this towering Red Army memorial. Comprising a column surmounted by a saluting Russian soldier and figurative panels, it remains a major city focal point.
DON'T MISS
ST ANASTASIA ISLAND
St Anastasia Island (%0882004124; www.anastasia-island.com; return boat trip adult/child 12/7 lv; hdepartures 10am, 11.30am, 1pm, 3pm Jun-Aug) is a small volcanic island that makes for a fun day of exploring. The island, which has served as a religious retreat, a prison and pirate bait (according to legend, a golden treasure is buried in its sands), is today dominated by a lighthouse and a monastery, where visitors can sample various healing herb potions. Three or four ships leave daily in summer from the passenger ferry terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ) south of the bus and train stations.
2Activities
Burgas' 3km-long strip of beach ( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-6pm Jun-Sep) is surprisingly pretty for an urban beach. The water and sand tend to get nicer the further north along the coast you wander, but it's all clean and safe and patrolled by lifeguards in summer. The beach is lined with bars and fish restaurants, and umbrellas and loungers can be hired.
Mud and Salt BathsHEALTH & FITNESS
( GOOGLE MAP ; Solnitsite Beach; hdawn-dusk)F
Hyper-saline Atanasovsko Lake, north of Burgas, affords visitors the chance to bathe in health-giving saltwater and mud. Head to Solnitsite Beach, 3km north of the northern end of Maritime Park (following the shore); bring a swimsuit that can get muddy, flip flops and a towel. Choose from several salt or mud lagoons, including some eerie red-salt pools, then wash yourself off in the sea afterward.
Kayak Safaris BGKAYAKING
(%0877500031; www.kayaksafarisbg.webs.com; tours 65 lv)
Run by a couple of long-time expats, Kayak Safaris BG operates slow-moving kayaking tours along the Fakiska river, one of the tributaries that feeds Lake Mandrensko, south of Burgas. The two- to three-hour excursions operate on weekdays from May to September. The company offers hotel pick-up and drop-off for an additional charge. Call or email to reserve and arrange details.
TOP BULGARIAN BEACHES FOR...
AUrban swimming: Burgas
ASafe, shallow water: Primorsko
A24-hour fun: Sunny Beach (Slânchev Bryag)
AA low-key hideaway: Sinemorets
ARomantic setting: Sozopol
zFestivals & Events
Burgas Sand Sculptures FestivalART
(%0889360430; www.sandfestburgas.com; adult/child 3.50/1 lv; hearly Jul-Sep)
Artists create fantastic sand sculptures each summer in July. The works are put on display through the end of summer at Ezero Park, near the northern end of Maritime Park.
Emil Tchakarov Music FestivalMUSIC
(hJul-Sep)
Series of classical music concerts, opera and ballet to remember the late Bulgarian composer Emil Tchakarov, who was born in Burgas in 1948.
International Folklore FestivalCULTURAL
(hlate Aug)
Burgas’s main festival, with shows during the evening at the Summer Theatre in Maritime Park and various locations around the city.
Burgas Sea Song FestivalMUSIC
(hJul & Aug)
Showcases up-and-coming popular music acts from around the country and offers new talents a chance to perform. Held in Maritime Park.
HOTEL PRICES
All accommodation prices listed in this chapter (unless stated otherwise) are what you should expect to pay during the high season (July and August). During the shoulder season (May, June, September and early October), room prices drop by up to 50%, so along with the continually good weather and greatly reduced crowds, this may be the best time to visit. Note that many hotels and restaurants in the resort towns only open for the summer season.
4Sleeping
Few foreign tourists hang around in Burgas for longer than it takes to get the next bus or train out again, but there's a good choice of mostly midrange hotels.
Old House HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %056-841 558; www.burgashostel.com; ul Sofroniy 3; dm/d 17/33 lv; aW)
This charming hostel makes itself right at home in a lovely 1895 house. Dorms are airy and bright (and bunk-free!), while doubles have access to a sweet little courtyard. The location is central and about 400m from the beach.
Hotel BulairHOTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %056-844 389; www.hotelbulair.com; ul Bulair 7; r 60 lv; paW)
In a converted 19th-century townhouse on a busy road, the 14-room Bulair is very handy for the bus and train stations. Guests have access to the spa and wellness centre at the nearby Primoretz Grand Hotel & Spa.
Hotel OperaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0885578000; www.burgashotel.com; ul Lyuben Karavelov 36; s/d/ste incl breakfast 60/70/120 lv; pnaW)
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This appealing boutique hotel has large, colourful rooms and especially soft mattresses. Guests get a 20% reduction in the excellent restaurant. It's on a quiet side street about five minutes' walk west of the city centre.
Hotel LuxorHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %056-847 670; www.luxor-bs.com; ul Bulair 27; s/d 70/80 lv; pai)
This vaguely Egyptian-inspired place is centrally located and has comfortable, three-star rooms and an Italian restaurant with a pretty terrace.
Fotinov Guest HouseHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878974703; www.hotelfotinov.com; ul Konstantin Fotinov 22; s/d 70/80 lv; aW)
Conveniently located right in the city centre, with a selection of brightly coloured rooms featuring fridges, kettles and cable TV. The multilingual staff are friendly and helpful, and there's even a small sauna.
Hotel ChiplakoffBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %056-829 325; www.chiplakoff.com; ul Ferdinandova 88; s/d 70/80 lv; pai)
A 10-minute walk west of the centre, this hotel occupies an attractively restored art nouveau mansion, designed by the same architect who built the city’s grand train station. Rooms are large and contemporary in style, and the original spiral staircases have been retained; there’s no lift, however.
Primoretz Grand Hotel & SpaLUXURY HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %056-812 345; www.hotelprimoretz.bg; ul Knyaz Al Battenberg 2; r from 220 lv; paWs)
This huge, five-star complex at the southern end of the city beach looks out of scale in Burgas, but its excellent facilities include a spa and indoor and outdoor pools. Sea views cost a little extra, as does the wi-fi and parking, which seems a bit cheeky at these prices.
LIFE'S A BEACH
Every day during summer, lifeguards work between 9am and 6pm at the resorts and popular beaches; they usually rescue a few tourists who ignore the warnings and don’t swim between the flags. It is extremely important to pay attention to these warnings on the Black Sea – there are often very strong currents at play and there are fatalities every year. Topless bathing is acceptable at the major resorts, but less so elsewhere.
5Eating
It's no exaggeration to say that Burgas boasts some of the best restaurants along the coast. For more budget-conscious travellers, outlets along ul Aleksandrovska and bul Aleko Bogoridi sell pizza, kebabs and ice cream. There are several summertime bars along the beach, most of which also serve food.
SatsangaVEGETARIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0885070443; ul Slavyanska 14; mains 6-10 lv; h10am-10pm; Wv)
One of the few vegetarian-only restaurants in town, clean and upbeat Satsanga does a full range of international veg hits, drawing inspiration from Asian, Middle Eastern and Mexican cooking. The friendly owner is a good source of local information.
VodenitsataBULGARIAN$
(Water Mill; GOOGLE MAP ; %0899174715; Kraybrezhna aleya; mains 5-10 lv; h10am-2am)
Standing on the seafront overlooking the beach, this traditional wood-cabin affair is consistently packed out with locals. Good value specialities include grilled fish, barbecues, steaks and salads.
BMSCAFETERIA$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Aleksandrovska 20; mains 4-7 lv; h8am-10pm)
Cheap, self-service, cafeteria-style chain offering simple but filling fare such as sausages, salads and stews. There are some outdoor tables and it also serves beer.
oRoséINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0885855099; bul Aleko Bogoridi 19; mains 8-20 lv; h8am-11pm; W)
Choose from a wide menu of grilled meats and fish, including a superlative lamb-shank offering, or fresh pasta, at this superb restaurant in the city centre. Finish off with a cake or homemade ice cream. Rosé also does a very good breakfast, including a rarity for Bulgaria: gluten-free muesli.
oEthnoSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0887877966; ul Aleksandrovska 49; mains 7-20 lv; h11am-11.30pm; W)
This downtown restaurant does splendid things with seafood: the Black Sea mussels alone are worth a trip to Burgas. With inviting blue-and-white surrounds that recall the city's Greek heritage, superb (English-speaking) service and a summery vibe, Ethno is classy without being uptight.
BoulevardITALIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %056-825 555; bul Aleko Bogoridi 60; mains 6-20 lv; h10am-midnight; aW)
Conveniently located at the entrance to Maritime Park, this casual, vaguely Italian restaurant is not as fancy as it looks at first glance. The pizzas are considered among the best in town, but it also offers seafood and risotto dishes higher up the food chain. The upstairs area is air-conditioned, though the prettiest table is below a big tree outside.
6Drinking & Nightlife
In summer, nightclubs and bars materialise among the trees of Maritime Park.
Bar NeptunCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0878101789; www.neptunburgas.com; Maritime Park; h9pm-4am)
Among the more reliable summertime clubs, with a varied program including ‘retro nights’, dance and Bulgarian music. Located on the central beach, near the southern end of Maritime Park.
MezettoPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0898405555; pl Troikata 4; h9am-1am; W)
Pleasant wine and beer bar, located on the side of one the city's main squares. Wide selection of draught beers, including reputedly the only place in town for Guinness. They also have a nice bar food menu, with burgers and light bites (mains 5 lv to 8 lv). No credit cards.
3Entertainment
Sea Casino Cultural CentreARTS CENTRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %056-911 868; Maritime Park; h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri)
The city's renovated 1930s casino is now a cultural centre, hosting a varied program of concerts, exhibitions, film screenings and readings. Ask at the tourist information centre if something is on during your visit.
Burgas Opera HouseOPERA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %056-840 762; www.operabourgas.com; ul Sv Kliment Ohridski 2; tickets 10-30 lv; hbox office 11am-2pm & 3-7pm)
A regular program of opera, ballet and concerts is held at the city's opera house. Buy tickets at the venue box office or online over the website.
Summer TheatreTHEATRE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %056-844 274; www.letenteatar.com; Maritime Park)
Live music, dance and drama performances often take place here.
Adriana Boudevska Drama TheatreTHEATRE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %056-841 494; www.burgteatre.com; ul Tsar Asen I 36a)
This stylish venue hosts classic and contemporary drama, though will only be of limited interest to most visitors as performances are normally staged in Bulgarian.
8Information
There are two branches of the tourist information centre; both offices have English-speaking staff and plenty of brochures.
Tourist Information Centre - Branch ( GOOGLE MAP ; %056-825 772; www.gotoburgas.com; pl Tsaritsa Yoanna, Yug Bus Station; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) Within the terminal of the Yug bus station.
Tourist Information Centre - Main ( GOOGLE MAP ; %056-841 542; www.gotoburgas.com; ul Hristo Botev; h8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) At the entrance to the underpass below ul Hristo Botev.
Numerous banks with ATMs can be found along ul Aleksandrovska and ul Aleko Bogorid.
Raffeisen Bank ( GOOGLE MAP ; %056-851 422; www.rbb.bg; ul Ferdinandova 5; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Changes cash and travellers cheques and has ATMs.
Unicredit Bulbank ( GOOGLE MAP ; %02-933 7212; www.unicreditbulbank.bg; ul Aleksandrovska 22; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Handy 24-hour ATM.
8Getting There & Away
Air
ABulgaria Air (www.air.bg) links Burgas Airport (BOJ; GOOGLE MAP ; %information 056-870 248; www.bourgas-airport.com; Sarafovo; W; g15), 10km northeast of town, with Sofia daily (April to October). In summer, Wizz Air (www.wizzair.com) connects Burgas with London Luton, Budapest, Prague and Warsaw. Other carriers fly to destinations in Germany and Russia.
Bus
Outside the train station at the southern end of ul Aleksandrovska, Yug bus station
( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884981220; www.bgrazpisanie.com; pl Tsaritsa Yoanna) is where most travellers will arrive or leave. There are regular buses to coastal destinations. Departures are less frequent outside summer. A left-luggage office ( GOOGLE MAP ; h6am-10pm) is located inside the station.
A number of agencies around Yug bus station, including Viva Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %056-841 245; www.viva-travel.net; ul Bulair; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri), run coaches to Istanbul each day (50 lv, seven hours).
From the less convenient Zapad bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0884981270, 056-831 427; www.bgrazpisanie.com; ul Maritsa 2), 2km northwest of pl Troikata, buses leave for Malko Târnovo (9 lv, 1½ hours, two daily) in the Strandzha Nature Park and Veliko Târnovo (25 lv, four hours, one daily).
The Burgas Bus website (www.burgasbus.info) is in Bulgarian only but has a handy timetable for both major bus stations (on the upper left side of the opening page).
Destination Cost (lv) Duration Frequency
Kiten 8 1hr every 1-1½hr
Nesebâr 6 40min every 30-40min
Plovdiv 20 4hr several daily
Pomorie 4 30min every 1-1½hr
Primorsko 7 1hr several daily
Sinemorets 15 1½hr 1 daily