Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria
Page 76
The well-preserved ruins of Varna's 2nd-century-AD Roman Thermae are the largest in Bulgaria and the fourth-largest of its kind in Europe. Visitors are allowed to clamber around the various chambers of the bath complex and admire surviving pieces of the advanced floor- and water-heating systems. The baths survived in their original form for only a century or two before the complex was abandoned. It was too costly to maintain as the empire began to decline.
St Michael the Archangel ChurchCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul 27 Yuli; h8am-6pm; g8, 9, 109, 409)
St Michael the Archangel Church was founded in 1865 and is historically significant as the first place where religious services were given in Bulgarian. The building also contained Varna’s first school. The church is small and badly lit, but there are some fine wooden icons.
Sveti Atanas Orthodox ChurchCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-633 925; www.sv-atanasii-varna.org; ul Graf Ignatiev 19; h8am-6pm)
The beautiful Sveti Atanas Church overlooks the Roman Thermae. Dating from 1838, it features numerous icons and an intricately carved bishop’s throne.
Sveti Nikolai ChurchCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-622 727; ul Knyaz Boris I 35; h8am-6pm)
The pretty Sveti Nikolai Church, right in the city centre, is worth a visit for its saintly murals. It’s always busy, and is a popular venue for weddings.
PRIMORSKI PARK
Established in 1878, this large and attractive green space, overlooking the sea, stretches for about 8km and is said to be the largest of its kind in Europe. It’s full of promenading families and old ladies knitting lace in summer, and there’s always something going on. In addition to greenery and views, the park is home to some of the city's leading attractions.
Aquarium ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-632 066; bul Primorski 4, Primorski Park; adult/child 4/2 lv; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; g8, 9, 109, 409) Worth a look to see the tanks filled with seahorses, piranhas and conger eels.
Copernicus Planetarium ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-684 444; www.astro-varna.com; Primorski Park 4; adult/child 4/2 lv) Varna's retro planetarium is a beautiful building in its own right, though the nightly presentations are in Bulgarian only.
Natural History Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %052-610 243; www.nature.museumvarna.com; Primorski Park; adult/child 5/2 lv; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar; g8, 9, 109, 409) Flora and fauna of the Black Sea region.
Zoo Park ( GOOGLE MAP ; %052-820 612; www.varna-zoo.com; Primorski Park; adult/child 1.50/1 lv; h8am-8pm Jun-Aug, 8.30am-6.30pm Sep-May; g8, 9, 109, 409) Around 70 different types of animals, including some llamas and big cats.
2Activities
Varna has a long stretch of public beach ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-6pm), starting in the south, near the port, and stretching north some 4km. Generally, the quality of the sand and water improve and the crowds thin as you stroll north. The easiest way to access the beach is to walk south on bul Slivnitsa to Primorski Park and follow the stairs to the beach.
Running alongside the beach is the long coastal lane, Kraybrezhna. You'll find a stretch of clubs here that have beach access and offer daybeds and umbrellas for rent (5 lv to 10 lv).
Plateau CyclingCYCLING
(%0897478989; www.plateaucycling.com; tours from 90 lv)
Offers whole- or half-day guided cycling trips around Varna and the Black Sea coast, as well as longer bespoke tours around eastern Bulgaria and southern Romania. Tours include hybrid bikes and gear, as well as pick-ups, drop-offs, luggage transfers and cold drinks. See the website and the calendar for what's on offer; book by phone or email.
Baracuda Dive CenterDIVING
(%052-610 841; www.baracudadive.com; half-day beginning instruction from 110 lv)
Offers diving instruction for beginners and advanced divers, as well as guided diving excursions along the Black Sea coast. Rates include equipment.
Free Varna TourWALKING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-820 690; www.visit.varna.bg; pl Kiril & Metodii; hJun-Sep; g8, 9, 109, 409)F
The Varna Tourist Information Centre offers a free three-hour walking tour of Varna on select days from June to September. Tours leave at 10.30am in front of the centre offices. Tours leave almost daily in July and August, and less frequently in June and September. Consult the office for the dates and to book a place.
ROMAN BATHING
Like all self-respecting Roman cities, Odessos (modern-day Varna) was graced with the very best public bathing facilities, and the vast thermae here were a visible, powerful symbol of the fruits – and engineering skill – of Roman civilisation. Far from being simply a place in which to wash up, the baths were an integral part of civic life. They were a place to socialise, make business deals, eavesdrop on the latest gossip, snooze, read and eat. All classes were allowed, though men and women were admitted at different times.
Larger baths, such as the one in Odessos, had a palaestra, or exercise hall, where wrestling and other athletic activities took place, often accompanied by music. Bathers would then rub themselves down with oil and sweat for a while in the sudatorium (a kind of sauna) before scraping it off with a strigil, examples of which are on show in the Archaeological Museum. A plunge in the hot water of the caldarium would follow. They would then move on to the more bearable temperature of the tepidarium, finishing off with a dip in the icy frigidarium. The remains of these shallow pools can still be seen in Varna’s Thermae, as well as the furnace and hypocaust system that provided underfloor heating and hot water.
zFestivals & Events
Varna has a lively cultural calendar year round, culminating with the annual Varna Summer International Music Festival. The Varna city's Department of Culture maintains an excellent website (www.varnaculture.bg) of the year's festivals and major events.
Varna Summer International Music FestivalMUSIC
(www.varnasummerfest.org)
One of the country's leading festivals of orchestral and chamber music, as well as ballet, is held every year in June and July. Events are held at the Open-Air Theatre, the City Art Gallery and the Festival Hall.
4Sleeping
Varna has no shortage of accommodation, although the better (or at least more central) places get very busy during the summer months.
Private rooms are plentiful, and pensioners with spare rooms occasionally turn up at the train station to greet new arrivals. Prices tend to be from 15 lv to 20 lv per person, but make sure you don’t end up in some out-of-the-way suburb.
oYo Ho HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0884729144; www.yohohostel.com; ul Ruse 23; dm/s/d from 14/30/40 lv; iW; g8, 9, 109)
Shiver your timbers at this cheerful, pirate-themed place, with four- and 11-bed dorm rooms and private options. Staff offer free pick-ups and can organise camping and rafting trips. The location is an easy walk to the main sights.
Flag HostelHOSTEL$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0897408115; www.varnahostel.com; ul Bratya Shkorpil 13a, 4th fl; dm from 22 lv; pnW; g8, 9, 109, 409)
The Flag is a long-established, sociable spot with a party atmosphere. The three dorms are basic with comfortable single beds (no stacked bunks). Free pick-ups from the bus and train stations.
Hotel HiHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-657 777; www.hotel-hi.com; ul Han Asparuh 11; s/d/ste 80/120/200 lv; paiW)
In a quiet neighbourhood south of the main thoroughfare, Hi is a friendly place featuring stylish, cosy rooms – some very small – with TVs and minibars. Doubles come in 'standard' and 'lux' varieties, with the latter being slightly bigger and with a sofa seating area.
oGraffit Gallery HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-989 900; www.graffithotel.com; bul Knyaz Boris I 65; s/d from 160/190 lv; pnaWs; g8, 9, 109, 409)
With its own art gallery and themed rooms, this modern designer hotel is one of Varna's more colourful options. Super-efficient staff, a chic spa and gym, and a superb on-site restaurant (7.30am to midnight) make this a top option. Enter from ul Make
donia.
Grand Hotel LondonHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-664 100; www.londonhotel.bg; ul Musala 3; r/ste from 200/230 lv; pnaW)
Varna’s grandest and oldest hotel opened in 1912. Rooms come in 'standard' and 'deluxe', with the latter being larger and offering early 20th-century furniture. Both types are spacious and elegantly furnished, with carpets and print curtains and bedspreads. The bathrooms are clean and fully modernised. Discounts are offered for stays of at least five days.
Hotel CapitolHOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-688 000; www.capitol.bg; ul Petko Karavelov 40; s/d 100/130 lv; paiW; g8, 9, 109, 409)
This smallish, smart hotel, just a few blocks off central bul Slivnitsa, is popular with business travellers and is a nice top-end choice. The rooms are clean and quiet, especially those facing the back of the hotel. There's a tiny garage below the hotel if you're travelling by car.
5Eating
Varna has some of the best eating on the Black Sea coast, with everything from beachside shacks to fine dining.
Dom na ArkitektaBULGARIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Musala 10; mains 4-10 lv; h8am-9pm)
The Architect’s House is a fine old wooden National Revival–style building with a leafy courtyard that makes for a good-value lunch spot. Grills, steaks and salads are on the menu, plus more traditional 'delicacies' such as chicken gizzards with onions.
oStariya ChinarBULGARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0876520500; www.stariachinar.com; ul Preslav 11; mains 10-20 lv; h8am-midnight)
This is upmarket Balkan soul food at its best. Try the baked lamb, made to an old Bulgarian recipe, or the divine barbecue pork ribs; it also boasts some rather ornate salads. Outdoor seating is lovely in summer; park yourself in the traditional interior when the cooler weather strikes.
OrientTURKISH$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-602 380; www.orientbg.com; ul Tzaribrod; mains 9-16 lv; h9am-midnight)
The best place in Varna for Turkish food, including spicy kebabs, grilled meats, stews and salads. There's a nice range of appetisers, including favourites such as tabouli and hummus. Eat in or outside under the umbrellas.
Bistro DragomanSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-621 688; www.bistro-dragoman.net; ul Dragoman 43; mains 6-16 lv; h10am-11pm; g8, 9, 109, 409)
This welcoming little place specialises in delicious takes on seafood and locally caught fish. This being the Balkans, grilled meats are also on the menu.
Pri MonahiniteBULGARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-611 830; www.monahini.com; bul Primorski 47; mains 12-24 lv; h11am-10pm; W; g20)
Set in the courtyard of a little church, 'At the Nuns' is a good choice for roast lamb, grilled pork and other meaty offerings. It also has an extensive wine list.
oDi Wine Restaurant & Wine CellarMODERN EUROPEAN$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-606 050; www.diwine.bg; ul Bratya Shkorpil 2; mains 12-30 lv; h11am-11pm; g8, 9, 109, 409)
This formal but friendly restaurant is, in the eyes of many, Varna's best fine-dining spot, with a big menu of tempting dishes including rack of lamb, T-bone steaks, guinea fowl, salmon and trout, as well as cheaper barbecue dishes. There are plenty of very good wines to try, too.
Mr BabaSEAFOOD$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0896505050; www.mrbaba.net; bul Primorski; mains 15-30 lv; h8am-midnight; W; g20)
The coast-long trend for novelty ship restaurants has come to Varna, with this handsome, wooden-hulled venture stranded at the far southern end of the beach off bul Primorski, near the port. It features a pricey but tasty menu of steak and fish dishes, including sea bass, trout and bluefish. Indoor and outdoor seating. Reserve in advance.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Varna's trendiest bars are found along the beach on Kraybrezhna aleya, in Primorski Park, although many of these exist in the summer months only. To find the epicentre of this beach nightlife, enter the park at the southern end of bul Slivnitsa and walk down the stairs. Many places operate during the day as beach resorts and morph into clubs after sunset.
Makalali Beach BarCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0882828220; Kraybrezhna aleya; h8am-4am Jun-Sep)
Yet another bar along Kraybrezhna aleya in Primorski Park where you can lounge on the beach all day, and then drink and dance all night.
Palm BeachCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0889422553; www.facebook.com/PalmBeachVarna; Kraybrezhna aleya; h24hr)
By day, a great place to relax by the beach and enjoy coffee and drinks at the bar. By night, a beachside nightclub, with music and dancing that can go all the way till morning.
SundogsPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0988936630; www.sundogspub.com; ul Koloni 1; h9am-midnight; W)
Big with expats and locals, this very welcoming watering hole is a great place to make new friends, chase down excellent pub grub with a good selection of beers, or show off your smarts at regular pub quiz nights.
Pench'sCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-616 696; www.penchis.com; ul Dragoman 25; h2pm-2am; g8, 9, 109, 409)
Want cocktails? Oh, they've got cocktails: Pench's is a two-time world-record holder for having the largest number of cocktails available at a single bar. Choosing one may be the hardest decision you'll ever make.
3Entertainment
Festival Hall & Congress CentrePERFORMING ARTS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %052-685 214; www.fccvarna.bg; bul Slivnitsa 2; hbox office 10am-9pm)
This big, boxy concert hall at the entrance to Primorski Park hosts the film and music festivals as well as music and dance performances throughout the year. Consult the website for the program. Buy tickets at the venue box office.
Varna Opera TheatreOPERA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %box office 052-665 022; www.tmpcvarna.com; pl Nezavisimost 1; hticket office 10am-1pm & 2-7pm; g8, 9, 109, 409)
Varna's grand opera house hosts performances by the Varna Opera and Philharmonic Orchestra all year, except July and August, when some performances are staged at the Open-Air Theatre in Primorski Park.
8Information
There are numerous banks with ATMs around the city centre.
Internet Doom 7INTERNET
( GOOGLE MAP ; %052-612 043; bul Tsar Osvoboditel 20; per hr 2 lv; h24hr)
The most central of several branches around town.
Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %052-820 690; www.visit.varna.bg; pl Kiril & Metodii; h9am-7pm; g8, 9, 109, 409)
Plenty of free brochures and maps, and helpful multilingual staff. The Tourist Information Centre also operates free three-hour walking tours of the city on select days from June to September.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Varna’s international airport (VAR; %052-573 323; www.varna-airport.bg; Aksakovo; g409) has scheduled and charter flights from all over Europe, as well as regular flights to and from Sofia. From the centre, bus 409 goes to the airport.
Bus
Varna has two bus stations; the scruffy central bus station (Avtoexpress; GOOGLE MAP ; %information 052-757 044, tickets 052-748 349; www.bgrazpisanie.com; bul Vladislav Varenchik 158; h24hr; g148, 409) is about 2km northwest of the city centre. There are basic cafes and a left luggage office ( GOOGLE MAP ; per hour 1 lv; h7am-7pm).
The Mladost minibus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %052-500 039; www.bgrazpisanie.com; ul Dobrovoltsi 7; g148, 409) is 200m southwest of the central bus station and serves minibuses operating along the Black Sea coast, including to Balchik (5 lv, 50 minutes, hourly), Kavarna (7 lv, 1½ hours, hourly), Burgas (14 lv, 2½ hours, every 40 minutes to one hour) and Nesebâr (12 lv, 1½ hours, six daily) via Sunny Beach (11 lv, 1¼ hours).
The following buses leave from Varna Central bus station.
Destination Cost (lv) Duration (hr) Frequency (daily)
Burgas 14 2½ several daily
Kavarna 7 1½ 7
Plovdiv 26 7 5
Ruse 15 4 5
Silistra 10 2 2
Sofia 33 7 10
Veliko Târnovo 21 4 8
Istanbul 60 10 1
Train
Facilities at Varna's train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %052-662 3343; www.bdz.bg; pl Slaveikov; g8, 9, 109) include a left-luggage office and cafe. Rail destinations from Varna include Ruse (14 lv, four hours, two daily), Sofia (24 lv, seven to eight hours, seven daily), Plovdiv (24 lv, seven hours, three daily) and Shumen (7 lv, 1½ hours, 10 daily).
8Getting Around
The most useful bus for visitors is 409, which connects the airport to the heart of Varna, stopping near the Tourist Information Centre, before heading onward to the resort at Golden Sands (Zlatni Pyasâtsi). This bus also passes the central bus station in Varna and stops outside Sveti Konstantin. It runs about every 15 minutes between 6am and 11pm. Bus 109 runs between the train station and Golden Sands. Buy tickets from the driver.
If you need a rental car, Hertz (%052-510 250; www.hertz.bg; Varna Airport; h9am-6pm) and Sixt (%052-599 490; www.sixt.com; Varna Airport; h9am-9pm) have offices at the airport.
Sveti Konstantin СВЕТИ КОНСТАНТИН
Sveti Konstantin is a small, sedate beach resort about 9km northeast of Varna, with hotels attractively spaced out among parkland. Established in 1946 under the name of Druzhba (Friendship), it was later renamed Sveti Konstantin i Elena, but is now more commonly known simply as Sveti Konstantin. It’s less commercial than the other resorts and has long been popular with older holidaymakers; it still has a number of ‘rest homes’ for retired civil servants and trade-union members, and the resort is famous for its therapeutic mineral waters and health treatments.