Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria
Page 79
Ruse also became a centre for anti-Turkish agitation during the 19th-century uprisings when Bucharest, just a few hours to the north, was the headquarters of the Bulgarian Central Revolutionary Committee. By the end of the Russo-Turkish War (1877–78), Ruse was the largest, most prosperous city in Bulgaria; the legacy of those days lingers in the city's lovely turn-of-the-century architecture.
Ruse
1Sights
1Museum of the Urban Lifestyle in RuseC3
2National Transport MuseumE1
3Pantheon of the National RevivalE4
4Roman Fortress of Sexaginta PristaA5
5Ruse Regional Museum of HistoryB6
6Sveta Troitsa ChurchD5
4Sleeping
7Anna PalaceA5
8Charlino PlazaA6
9City Art HotelB4
10English Guest HouseC3
11Hotel RigaC3
5Eating
12ChiflikaB6
Garden RestaurantC3
13Happy Bar & GrillC5
14New HouseB5
6Drinking & Nightlife
15Club AdmiralA5
16Sofa Coffee TimeD3
3Entertainment
17Ruse Opera HouseD5
1Sights
Roman Fortress of Sexaginta PristaARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-825 002; www.museumruse.com; ul Tsar Kaloyan 2; adult/child 4/1 lv; h9am-noon & 12.30-5.30pm Tue-Sat)
Archaeological work is ongoing at this former Roman fortress at a high point along the Danube. Research attests to some 2000 years of continued military use, from an ancient Thracian settlement through the Roman period in the first centuries AD to the Slavs, Bulgarians and Turks. There are Roman fragments on display as well as older Thracian artefacts.
National Transport MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-803 516; ul Bratya Obretenovi 5; adult/child 4/2 lv; h9am-noon & 2-5.30pm Mon-Sat)
The country's only National Transport Museum is housed in the building of Bulgaria's first railway station. It exhibits vintage locomotives from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, as well as carriages that once belonged to Tsar Boris III, Tsar Ferdinand and Turkish sultan Abdul Aziz.
Ruse Regional Museum of HistoryMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-825 002; www.museumruse.com; pl Aleksandar Battenberg 3; adult/child 4/1 lv; h9am-6pm)
The 5th-century BC Borovo Treasure, consisting of silver cups and jugs adorned with Greek gods, is one of the highlights of Ruse's main history museum. Other artefacts on display include Thracian helmets, Roman statues and 19th-century costumes.
Sveta Troitsa ChurchCHURCH
(Holy Trinity; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pl Sveta Troitsa 9; h7am-6pm)
Built in 1632 below ground level – according to the Turkish stipulation that churches should be as unobtrusive as possible – Sveta Troitsa has a fine gilt wood iconostasis and wooden pillars painted to look like marble, as well as some well-preserved icons.
Pantheon of the National RevivalMONUMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-820 998; www.museumruse.com; Park na Vazrozhdentsite; adult/child 2/1 lv; h9am-noon & 12.30-5.30pm)
The gold-domed Pantheon of the National Revival was built in 1978 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the deaths of 453 local heroes who fought the Ottomans in the Russo-Turkish War. Inside, you can see the marble tombs of revolutionary leaders and a small collection of swords and rifles, but little is explained in English.
Museum of the Urban Lifestyle in RuseMUSEUM
(Kaliopa House; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-820 997; www.museumruse.com; ul Tsar Ferdinand 39; adult/child 4/1 lv; h9am-noon & 12.30-5.30pm)
Built in 1866 this elegant townhouse features some re-created period rooms, with 19th-century furniture, paintings and chandeliers upstairs. Downstairs there are changing exhibitions on social themes such as education, childhood and domestic life. During the mid-1800s the house served as the consulate of Prussia.
4Sleeping
Ruse has several excellent hotels, though most are aimed at business travellers and are priced accordingly. Budget travellers have the options of a guesthouse and a few older hotels.
English Guest HouseB&B$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-875 577; vysachko@abv.bg; ul Rayko Daskalov 34; s/d/tr from 40/60/70 lv; pai)
This centrally located guesthouse in a renovated townhouse has a selection of simple rooms, including pricier options with en suites. There's a common kitchen and living room with a TV and fireplace. Guests have use of the garden. The owners can advise on transport and offer sightseeing day trips.
oCity Art HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0885158403; www.cityarthotel.com; ul Veliko Târnovo 5; s/d 70/90 lv; aW)
City Art offers 19 artfully styled rooms with trendy colour schemes, giant headboards and upbeat philosophical quotations stencilled on the walls. The building is a renovated 19th-century hat-maker's shop on a quiet street near the centre. There's a Chinese restaurant, Bamboo, in the back courtyard.
Hotel RigaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-822 042; www.en.hotel-riga.com; bul Pridunavski 22; s 60-80 lv, d 90-110 lv; paiW)
This communist-era high-rise is trying hard to modernise and is worth serious consideration. The updated, slightly more expensive 'Executive' rooms sport cutting-edge design, superclean baths and comfortable beds. The garden restaurant overlooks the Danube, and the top-floor Panorama restaurant is one of the better restaurants in town. The garden merits a visit even if you're not staying here.
Charlino PlazaHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-825 707; www.charlino-plaza.com; ul Kaloyan 24, pl Dunav; s/d 50/70 lv; paW)
Twenty-two rooms, including a presidential suite, spread out over four floors at this grand Viennese-style mansion located on a central square. The rooms recall the late 19th and early 20th centuries, with richly textured carpets and curtains. There's also a restaurant, a bar and a garden.
Anna PalaceHOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-825 005; www.annapalace.com; ul Knyazheska 4; s/d/ste from 75/90/140 lv; pai)
In a bright-yellow neoclassical mansion just up from the river, the luxurious Anna Palace has large rooms done out in a fin de siècle style (think brocade curtains and richly printed wallpapers). Some of the front rooms have river views. There are smaller discounted attic singles.
5Eating
The centre of the city, around pl Svoboda, is filled with restaurants and pavement terraces.
oGarden RestaurantBULGARIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0886005658; www.hotel-riga.com; bul Pridunavski 22; mains 6-12 lv; h11am-1am Apr-Sep; W)
This outdoor restaurant is part of the Riga Hotel complex, and features a beautiful view out over the Danube, water fountains and lots of green. Choose from a long list of grilled meats and fish. The atmosphere borders on magical in the evening as the rakia (Bulgarian brandy) starts to flow and the last rays of sun glint over the river.
New HouseBULGARIAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0892000627; ul Hristo Danov 5; mains 5-10 lv; h11am-midnight)
The simple, no-frills interior hints at the owners' intention: to create a foodie destination in the centre of Ruse. The menu emphasises healthy choices, mixing the best of Bulgarian dishes such as tarator (cold cucumber and yoghurt soup) and moussaka, with a modern take on fresh ingredients and authentic preparation. Good-value lunch specials make this a winning choice at midday.
Happy Bar & GrillINTERNATIONAL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888154222; www.happy.bg; pl Svoboda 4; mains 7-14 lv; h11am-11pm; Wvc)
Don't be put off by the fast-food appearance of the exterior. This is actually a very good and well-run restaurant, with a menu that includes pizza and pasta, seafood, sushi, steaks and salads. The terrace is a festive option for a warm summer evening. At other times, choose a table in the handsome, contemporary interior.
ChiflikaBULGARIAN$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-828 222; ul Otets Paisii 2; mains 9-20 lv; h11am-2am Mon-
Sat, noon-1am Sun)
Set in several rooms following an old-world mehana (tavern) theme, with a good dollop of kitsch, Chiflika features wooden benches, rugs, fleeces on the walls, and waiters in pantaloons. This is one of the few places in Ruse where you can sample hearty traditional food. On the big menu are clay-pot meals, including an excellent chicken gyuvetch (overn-baked stew), soups, grills and more adventurous options.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Club AdmiralPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888002023; www.admiralruse.com; ul Slavyanska 5; h10am-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat; W)
Describing itself as a 'Scottish pub', Admiral is a big, lively place with a traditional pub, smarter piano bar and a summer garden where food is also served.
Sofa Coffee TimeCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Tsar Osvoboditel, cnr ul Aleksandrovska; h8am-2am; W)
This trendy little coffee bar with comfy sofas inside and seating outside is always busy. It also serves cocktails and light meals.
3Entertainment
The Ruse Opera House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %082-825 037; www.ruseopera.com; pl Sveta Troitsa 7) is known for hosting top productions. Buy tickets at the box office or online, or ask at the tourist information centre.
8Information
There are numerous banks with ATMs and foreign-exchange offices along ul Aleksandrovska and pl Svoboda.
Rusenski Lom Nature Park OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %082-872 397; www.lomea.org; ul General Skobelev 7; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
Provides camping and hiking information and maps; can arrange trips to the Ivanovo Rock Monastery.
Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %082-824 704; www.rusetourism.org; ul Aleksandrovska 61; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6pm Sat & Sun; W)
The helpful tourist information office hands out free city maps and leaflets. Can advise on day trips and transport options.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Yug bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %082-828 151; www.bgrazpisanie.com; ul Tsar Osvoboditel 156) The city's main bus station, located 2.5km south of the city centre. Most buses, including international services to Bucharest, depart from here. It's well laid out, with kiosks representing the various private bus companies. Look for destinations posted on company timetables, and buy tickets from windows or directly from the drivers.
Sample services:
ABurgas (18 lv, 4½ hours)
APleven (11 lv, 2½ hours)
ASilistra (12 lv, about two hours) Bus and minibus departures every hour or so.
ASofia (30 lv, five hours)
AVarna (15 lv, four hours)
AVeliko Târnovo (12 lv, two hours)
Pegasus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0877344747; www.pegasusbg.com; ul Tsar Osvoboditel 156, Yug Bus Station) runs four daily minibuses to central Bucharest (22/35 lv one way/return) and the city's international airport (29 lv) from Yug bus station, dropping off at Piaţa Unirii in the centre of the Bucharest, just outside the Hotel Horoscop (rather than the bus station).
Iztok bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %082-845 064; ul Ivan Vedar 10) Situated 4km east of the centre; has infrequent buses to nearby destinations such as Ivanovo and Cherven in the Rusenski Lom Nature Park.
Train
The grand but decaying train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %082-820 222; www.bdz.bg; pl Stamboliyski 1) is adjacent to the Yug bus station, about 2.5km south of the town centre. It has several daily trains to both Sofia (19 lv, six hours) and Veliko Târnovo (7.50 lv, two to three hours), and two more to Varna (12 lv, four hours).
For Romania, one daily train serves Bucharest (20 lv, 3½ hours). Show up at least 30 minutes before the train departure time for customs and passport checks.
In the station, the Rila Bureau ( GOOGLE MAP ; %082-828 016; Train Station; h9am-5.30pm) sells international train tickets. It’s best to buy a Bucharest ticket on the day of travel as there are sometimes delays.
DANUBE BRIDGE
Some 6km downstream from Ruse, a double-decker highway and railway bridge links the city with Giurgiu on the Romanian side of the Danube. Built in 1954, the Danube Bridge was originally called the Friendship Bridge, and at 2.3km in length and towering 30m above the water, it’s the longest steel bridge in Europe.
8Getting Around
Reliable local taxi company To4nite ( GOOGLE MAP ; %082-212 222; www.to4nite.com; bul Tsar Osvoboditel 156, Yug Bus Station) offers regional taxi service to attractions located in the nearby Rusenski Lom Nature Park, including to the Basarbovo Rock Monastery (26 lv return), Ivanovo Rock Monastery (37 lv) and Cherven Fortress (48 lv return). Offers package trips as well.
Rusenski Lom Nature Park ПРИРОДЕН ПАРК РУСЕНСКИ ЛОМ
This 32.6 sq km nature park, sprawling south of Ruse around the Rusenski Lom, Beli Lom and Malki Lom Rivers, is a superb spot for birdwatching; 172 species are recorded here, including Egyptian vultures, lesser kestrels and eagle owls. It’s also home to 67 species of mammals and 24 types of bats.
Most visitors, however, are drawn first to the park’s cliff churches. Around 40 medieval rock churches exist in and around some 300 local caves. A handful are accessible, the most famous of which are Basarbovo and Ivanovo. The park also contains the second-longest cave in Bulgaria, the Orlova Chuka Cave, between Tabachka and Pepelina villages. Thracian and Roman ruins are also found here.
1Sights
Basarbovo Rock MonasteryMONASTERY
(Sv Dimitar Bassarbovski; %082-800 765; Basarbovo; h9am-6pm)F
This towering monastery, about 12km south of Ruse near the village of Basarbovo, is the country's only working rock monastery. Established some time before the 15th century, the complex has been much restored and extended over time. Visitors can explore a rock-carved church with colourful icons and a little museum.
Cherven FortressFORTRESS
(Citadel; Cherven; adult/child 4/1 lv; h9am-noon & 1-6pm Mar-Nov)
Just outside the village of Cherven, about 30km south of Ruse, are the remains of a remarkably intact 6th-century hilltop citadel. Several streets, towers and churches have also been discovered, and there are great views of the river valleys and peaks from the top. Wear comfortable walking shoes because it's a long climb up from the car park to the citadel.
Ivanovo Rock MonasteryMONASTERY
(Sv Archangel Michael; %0889370006; Ivanovo; adult/child 4/1 lv; h9am-6pm Apr-Nov)
This nonworking monastery, a Unesco World Heritage site, is situated in a cave about 40m above ground at an isolated spot 4km from the village of Ivanovo. Built during the 13th century, it houses 14th-century murals, including a Last Supper scene, which are regarded as some of the finest in Bulgaria. It’s accessible by car, or on foot (30 minutes), from the village.
Orlova Chuka CaveCAVE
(Eagle Peak Cave; %0885500294; www.orlovachuka.eu; Pepelina; adult/child 6/2 lv; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct)
Lying 2km from Peplina village, the country's second-longest cave is accessible for around 3km of its length. Visitors pass through several chambers, the first called the 'Concert Hall' for its good acoustics. Entry is by guided tour only, taking place at even-numbered hours throughout the day. Guides rarely speak English, but anyway the real attraction here is the natural beauty of the cave.
4Sleeping & Eating
The tourist information office in Ruse and the information centre (%081-162 285; ul Olimpiiska 75, Ivanovo; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) in Ivanovo can provide information on accommodation. Restaurants are few and far between in the Rusenski Lom Nature Park; consider packing a lunch for your visit.
Art Villa Orlova ChukaGUESTHOUSE$
(%0899504756; www.artvillaorlovachuka.com; ul Orlova Chuka, Pepelina; r from 40 lv)
This comfortable guesthouse is located in the village of Pepelina, about 2km from the Orlova Chuka cave and 20km from the Ivanovo Rock Monastery in the Rusenski Lom Nature Park. Some rooms have en suites and balconies with mountain views. There's a shared kitchen and a garden.
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8Getting There & Away
Buses depart twice daily on weekdays from Iztok bus station in Ruse for Cherven, via Ivanovo and Koshov (4 lv, 45 minutes). The best way to get to Ivanovo from Ruse, however, is by the more-frequent train (3 lv, 30 minutes,seven daily).
Ask at the Ruse tourist information centre for details on getting to Basarbovo via local bus directly from the city centre. In summer buses depart hourly; in winter they are less frequent.
The Ruse-based taxi company To4nite offers return sightseeing outings from Ruse to the attractions in the Rusenski Lom Nature Park.
WORTH A TRIP
THE THRACIAN TOMB OF SVESHTARI
About 90km to the east of Ruse stands one of the country's most impressive archaeological sites: a former Thracian settlement with a nearly perfectly preserved three-chamber burial tomb. The Unesco-protected Sveshtari tomb ( GOOGLE MAP ; %084-735 279; http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/359; Sveshtari, near Isperih; adult/student 10/5 lv; h9.30am-4.30pm Wed-Sun) dates from about 300 BC and brilliantly shows off the advanced state of Thracian civilisation through its high-quality construction, fine artwork, and exquisite burial gifts. The highly detailed reliefs include carvings of 10 female figures on the walls of the central chamber, which are said to be unique among tombs so far discovered in the Thracian territories.