Lonely Planet Romania & Bulgaria

by Lonely Planet

  The Balkani Wildlife Society (www.balkani.org) is active in environmental conservation programs around the country and in raising public awareness of wildlife issues.

  Rock Climbing & Mountaineering

  The Rila, Pirin and Stara Planina mountain ranges each have numerous locations where you can rock climb and mountaineer. In these perilous peaks, and with snow and low temperatures persisting at higher levels into summer, a qualified guide is essential. Find local guides with mountaineering or rock and ice climbing expertise through www.bulguides.com (from 230 lv per day).

  The Bulgarian Climbing & Mountaineering Federation (www.bfka.org) has information, advice and links to regional clubs. The website www.climbingguidebg.com is also a good resource.

  Rila Mountains

  There are well over 200 peaks higher than 1000m in the alpine, lake-dappled Rila range. Malîovitsa village is home to the Central Mountain School, which offers rock-climbing activities and guides. Climbing here is only for the experienced. Mid-June to mid-September has the best conditions.

  Pirin Mountains

  This range features more than a hundred peaks above 2000m. The northern face of Mt Vihren (2915m) is the most popular climb in this region and can be accessed from Bansko, though it is extremely challenging; indeed most climbing routes in the Pirin Mountains are only suitable for experienced climbers. BTour ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0886205953, 0887243793; www.btour.org; ul Pirin 27; h10am-7pm) can arrange family-friendly and beginner-level rock climbing from Bansko (from 70 lv per person, minimum group of three). May to September has the best conditions, but ask about conditions locally.

  Stara Planina

  The 550km-long Stara Planina (Balkan Range) has more than 350 climbing routes from Vratsa. The most frequented section is the Vratsa Rocks in the far west, the largest limestone climbing area in Bulgaria. Mt Botev (2376m), inside the Central Balkan National Park, is a popular climb, with easy access from Karlovo. Learn more at the Natura Information Centre. Spring or autumn are the best times to climb.

  Skiing & Snowboarding

  Bansko is the number one skiing and snowboarding resort in the country, and it continues to expand rapidly, particularly with hotel developments encroaching on its mountainous horizon. It has the most modern facilities, the longest snow season and the biggest international profile. It boasts 75km of marked ski trails (from 900m to 2600m in elevation), and all abilities are catered for, plus there's a stunt park for experienced snowheads to leap and slalom. The ski season runs between mid-December and April, helped in part by the use of artificial snow cannons. It's at its best from January to March.

  Pamporovo, sited at 1650m in the Rodopi Mountains, and with 25km of trails, is a family-friendly place and great for beginners. The more experienced will be drawn to the giant slalom run and, most difficult of all, the infamous 1100m-long Wall.

  Nearby Chepelare is quieter and further from hotel developers' radars, but it has 30km of cross-country tracks and some of the longest runs in Bulgaria. Mechi Chal I (3150m long) is a black-level run used for international competitions, while Mechi Chal II (5250m) is a combined red/green slope with a 720m vertical drop.

  Borovets, in the Rila Mountains, has three main ski areas comprising 58km of pistes, many of them scenic and fringed with trees, plus well over 30km of cross-country runs.

  Just 10km from central Sofia, Vitosha is a convenient destination for weekending city folk and has slopes to suit all levels of skiers and snowboarders. Other, smaller (and cheaper) ski resorts such as Malîovitsa are mainly patronised by Bulgarian holidaymakers and there's little to detain visiting skiers beyond a day.

  See www.bulgariaski.com for comprehensive information about the country’s skiing resorts and snow reports.

  Water Sports

  During the summer, big Black Sea package resorts such as Sunny Beach (Slânchev Bryag) and Golden Sands (Zlatni Pyasâtsi), as well as some smaller seaside towns, offer organised water sports, including jet-skiing, waterskiing, parasailing and windsurfing. Often these are quite casual affairs set up at various points along the beaches.

  Scuba diving has become popular in recent years, and there are several places along the coast where you can try it. Popular tourist towns such as Varna, Sozopol and Nesebâr are the places to go, and there's a diving resort just north of Tsarevo. As well as standard training courses and boat dives, there’s also the opportunity to explore wrecks.

  MINERAL BATHS

  After all that cycling, skiing and hiking, soothe your muscles in nerve-ticklingly warm water at these spa hotspots and natural pools.

  Hisar Dating back to Roman times, the mineral-rich waters in Hisar are renowned whether you soak in or sip the stuff.

  Mud and Salt Baths Just north of Burgas, squelch around Atanasovsko Lake's mud pools and red-tinged waters.

  Devin Sink into healing waters at this Rodopi Mountains spa town, which has hotels for all budgets.

  Pomorie This coastal spot is well known for mud-bath treatments, offered by numerous hotels.

  Dobrinishte Only 6km from Bansko, the cheap and cheerful mineral baths here are an enjoyable way to relax after skiing.

  Birdwatching & Wildlife Watching

  Bulgaria is a haven for all kinds of wildlife, including such elusive creatures as brown bears and wolves, plus more than 400 species of birds (around 60% of the European total).

  Birdwatching is a popular hobby and several companies run birdwatching tours. The nesting period (May to June) and migration period (September to October) are the best times to come. The Via Pontica, which passes over Bulgaria, is one of Europe’s major migratory routes for birds. Top picks for birdwatchers include Lake Srebârna, home to Dalmatian pelicans and rare cormorants; Pomorie Lake, with more than 200 bird species; and Kaliakra Nature Reserve, frequented by migratory birds.

  WILDLIFE-WATCHING TOURS

  There are several companies that run interesting wildlife tours, led by English-speaking professionals.

  Neophron (www.neophron.com) Birdwatching, botany and other wildlife-spotting tours, with interesting focuses such as wolves, vultures and dragonflies.

  Via Pontica Tours (www.viapontica.com) Specialist birdwatching, butterfly, insect and botanical tours.

  Wild Echo (www.wildechotours.com) Birdwatching and bat-, butterfly-, wolf- and bear-viewing tours. Formerly known as Spatia Tours.

  Pelican Travel (www.pelican-travel.org) Wildlife and cultural tours of Bulgaria; also operates a guesthouse in twitcher's haven Lake Srebârna.

  Wildlife Photography (www.cometobg.com) Wildlife photography tours and workshops.

  Zig-Zag Holidays (www.zigzagbg.com) Birdwatching and botany tours.

  Cycling & Motorbiking

  Though not always advisable as a means of getting around cities, cycling is an excellent way of exploring some of the more off-the-beaten-track areas of Bulgaria’s wild and wonderful countryside.

  Malko Târnovo in southeastern Bulgaria has some enjoyable cycling trails, as does the coastal area around Varna. Inland, Veliko Târnovo's surrounds have good options for cyclists.

  There are surprisingly few businesses that rent out bikes. It’s a good idea to either bring your own or book a package or tour. Alternatively, seek out accommodation at a guesthouse or campground that offers bike rental, such as Camping Veliko Tarnovo or Guesthouse Djambazki (%0888573133; www.house-djambazki.com; bul Iskar 53, Govedartsi; s/d/tr from 70/100/150 lv; paWs).

  Motoroads (www.motoroads.com) has a good choice of mountain bikes (minimum five-day rental from 240 lv) and motorcycles (minimum five-day rental from 485 lv). Motoroads also organises a series of self-guided trips, including five-day motorcycle tours of the Black Sea coast and Bulgarian monasteries (each from 1270 lv).

  Odysseia-In runs mountain-biking trips through the Rodopis and along the coast. Its self-guided five-day cycling trip along the Black Sea coast costs around 1020 lv.

  Cycling Bulgaria (www.cyclingbulgaria.com) is another big outfit offering interesting excursions
, from a one-day Mt Vitosha ride from Sofia (66 lv) to eight-day tours of the Western Balkan mountain range (from around 960 lv).

  The reputable Plateau Cycling runs whole- or half-day guided cycling trips around Varna and the Black Sea coast, including bikes and pick-ups.

  Horse Riding

  Seeing the open countryside from atop a horse can be a magical experience, and there are several companies around the country offering horse-riding tours in some of the most spectacular areas such as Stara Planina, the Pirin Mountains and the Black Sea coast. Arbanasi is an especially good destination for equine enthusiasts, with a family-friendly riding school on the eastern edge of the sleepily scenic hilltop village; short rides cost from 25 lv.

  Nature & Wildlife

  Though small, Bulgaria packs in a huge and diverse array of flora and fauna, helped by the varied climate and topography, relatively sparse human population, and the fact that almost a third of the country is forested.

  NATIONAL PARKS

  The Bulgarian government has officially established three national parks – Rila, Pirin and Central Balkan – where the flora, fauna and environment are (in theory) protected. Bulgaria also has 11 ‘nature parks’ (unlike the national parks, they include permanent settlements) and nature reserves, which are unique managed ecosystems. The latter category receives the strictest protection, and access is often regulated or even prohibited.

  National park or reserve Features Activities Best time to visit

  Central Balkan National Park mountains, forests, waterfalls & canyons; wolves, otters, wildcats, rare birds & bats hiking, caving & horse riding May-Sep

  Pirin National Park mountains & lakes; bears & birds hiking, snowshoeing & skiing Jan, Feb & Jun-Sep

  Rila National Park alpine forests & pastures; deer, wild goats & eagles hiking May-Sep

  Ropotamo Nature Reserve marshes & sand dunes; rare birds boat trips & hiking Apr-Jul

  Rusenski Lom Nature Park rivers & valleys; rare birds; rock churches birdwatching & caving Jun-Sep

  Sinite Kamani (Blue Rocks) Nature Park hills & rock formations; haidouk caves hiking & birdwatching May-Sep

  Strandzha Nature Park varied forest & beaches; birds & mammals; archaeological ruins hiking & birdwatching Jun-Aug

  Vitosha Nature Park mountain trails hiking, skiing & snowboarding Jan, Apr-Aug & Dec

  Vrachanski Balkan Nature Park forest, varied tree life & caves hiking & caving Jun-Sep

  The Bulgarian Society for the Protection of Birds (www.bspb.org) is a good source of bird news and the latest conservation projects.

  Animals

  Bulgaria is home to some 56,000 kinds of animal, including over 400 species of birds, 38 types of reptile, over 200 species of freshwater and saltwater fish (of which about half are found along the Black Sea coast), and 27,000 types of insect.

  Many larger animals are elusive and live in the hills and mountains, away from urban centres, but if you are keen to see some natural fauna, join an organised tour. Alternatively, hike in the Strandzha Nature Park, the Rusenski Lom Nature Park (home to 66 species of mammal), the Rila National Park, or the Pirin National Park (where 45 species of mammal, such as European brown bears, deer and wild goats, thrive).

  Bird lovers can admire plenty of feathered friends at Burgas Lakes, the largest wetland complex in the country, and home to about 60% of all bird species in Bulgaria; the Ropotamo Nature Reserve, with more than 200 species of birds; Lake Srebârna, also with over 200 bird species; the Strandzha Nature Park, with almost 70% of all bird species found in Bulgaria; and the Rusenski Lom Nature Park, home to 170 species of water birds. White storks, black storks, Dalmatian pelicans, sandpipers, corncrakes and pygmy cormorants are some of the species that can be seen in these areas. Inland, Blue Rocks Nature Park near Sliven is home to the insect-spearing red-backed shrike, as well as golden eagles and vultures.

  Common and bottlenose dolphins and harbour porpoises live in the Black Sea – though, sadly, in decreasing numbers.

  ENDANGERED SPECIES

  Bulgaria has one of the largest brown bear populations in Europe. Rough estimates put the figure at anything from 400 to 700 individuals. There are thought to be around 300 to 500 bears in the southeastern Rodopis, and up to 200 in the Central Balkan National Park. However, unless you’re on a wildlife-spotting tour, you’re extremely unlikely to see a bear.

  Bulgaria is thought to have up to 1200 wolves, though sadly they are considered a threat to livestock and can be shot by farmers. Numbers of the critically endangered Eurasian lynx are uncertain. Again, you’ll be very lucky to see these animals in the wild.

  Rare insects include the Bulgarian emerald dragonfly, only discovered in 1999. It is thought only to inhabit a small area of the Eastern Rodopi Mountains and neighbouring areas of Greece and Turkey.

  Various species of rare birds, including Egyptian vultures, lesser kestrels and great eagle owls, are protected in the Rusenski Lom Nature Park, while small cormorants, ferruginous ducks and Dalmatian pelicans thrive in the Srebârna Nature Reserve. The imperial eagle is one of Bulgaria’s most threatened birds – only around 24 pairs are believed to exist in the wild today. Saker falcons have been brought close to extinction in Bulgaria due to the illegal falconry trade and egg collectors; after a 90% population reduction over a decade, conservation projects have been attempting to reverse the decline.

  Plants

  About 250 of Bulgaria's 10,000 or so plant species are endemic and many have indigenous names, such as Bulgarian blackberry and Rodopi tulip. The silivriak, with its pale pink flowers, grew all over Europe before the last Ice Age, but is now found only in southern Bulgaria, particularly in the Rodopi Mountains, where it’s reasonably abundant. The wonderfully named Splendid Tulip, with its large red flowers, is extremely rare, and was only discovered in 1976, near Yambol.

  The Unesco-protected Pirin National Park boasts more than 1300 species of flora, and the Central Balkan National Park encompasses ancient fir, spruce and hornbeam forests and mountain meadows, and supports some 2340 plant species, several of which are found nowhere else.

  The rare silivriak is also known as the Orpheus flower; legend says that its flowers were stained pink with the blood of the divine musician after he was hacked to pieces by the frenzied Bacchantes.

  Visual Arts, Craft & Music

  Bulgaria has an ancient tradition of icon painting and these religious images are still the most memorable examples of Bulgarian artistry. Five centuries of Turkish rule suppressed much of native Bulgarian culture, but the National Revival of the late 18th to 19th centuries saw a creative blossoming as writers and artists strove to reignite the national consciousness. During the communist era, however, the arts were tightly controlled and heavily influenced by Russia and socialist ideology. Today, artistic activity in Bulgaria is at an all-time high.

  Icons & Religious Art

  Most of Bulgaria’s earliest artists painted on the walls of homes, churches and monasteries. The works of these anonymous masters are considered national treasures, and rare surviving examples can be seen in churches and museums across the country, including the lovely Boyana Church, near Sofia.

  Throughout the Ottoman occupation, the tradition of icon painting endured, as a symbol of national culture and identity. The highpoint for Bulgarian icon painting came during the National Revival period, and the most famous artist of the time was Zahari Zograf (1810–53), who painted magnificent murals in the monasteries at Rila, Troyan and Bachkovo.

  Icon painting continues to be a highly regarded branch of the arts in Bulgaria, with artists such as Silvia Dimitrova creating luminous works for display not only in Sofia, but as far afield as London and Oxford, England. Hand-painted icons by contemporary artists are sold at galleries, churches and markets; Sofia, Veliko Târnovo and Oreshak are good places to shop.

  Get up to date on the artistic revival in Plovdiv, European Capital of Culture 2019, at www.plovdiv2019.eu.

  Painting & Sculpture

 
Bulgarian painting has had little exposure overseas, but well-regarded Bulgarian artists of the last 150 years include Georgi Mashev, who created probing portraits and historic scenes; modernist Tsanko Lavrenov; and painter of pastoral landscapes Zlatyu Boyadzhiev. Head and shoulders above them all is Vladimir Dimitrov (1882–1960), often referred to as the 'Master’. Dimitrov, who during his life was as famous for his asceticism as his art, is known for his colourful, sometimes psychedelic, images of 19th-century peasants, and you will see his work in galleries across Bulgaria.

  Contemporary Bulgarian artists include the sculptor Todor Todorov, abstract painter Kolyo Karamfilov, and Daria Vassilyanska, who paints luminous scenes of dances and villagers. However, the most widely recognised Bulgarian of recent times is Christo, of husband-and-wife duo Christo and Jeanne-Claude.

  Bulgarian sculpture developed in the 19th and 20th centuries, and one of the leading lights of the period was Andrey Nikolov (1878–1959), who was influenced by contemporary French styles. His home in Sofia is now a cultural centre and hotel. He designed the stone lion outside Sofia’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and more examples of his naturalistic sculptures are on show in the city’s National Art Gallery.

  CHRISTO & JEANNE-CLAUDE