No Reverse Gear
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below the tree. Some of the cubs are busy playing in the swamp. The leopard is high up on one of the top most branches. We are not hit by the thought that we could be easy prey for the leopard, sitting in an open roofed vehicle staring up at this shy creature.
Satisfied we head for an open area – far away from the lioness and leopard, to have our packed lunch. Our picnic venue is very close to the banks of the Mara River. Hippos can be spotted down below. On our way back we come across 2 more male cheetahs. They seem oblivious to our presence. We leave them behind and head back to the camp. Dust envelopes us all around. Simon stops the vehicle and both he and Masai stretch out the canvas over the top of the land cruiser. We roll up our windows and speed off.
Our plans for the next day are unsure. We opt out of an early morning game drive and decide to sleep in a little longer. When we reach the dining room for breakfast, we are told both Masai and Simon are out and since there is only one vehicle being used, we have no choice but to remain at the camp and wait for their return. We spend the rest of the day in our tent, only coming down for lunch. As we prepare to close up the tent for lunch, I notice a large grey cloud in the horizon. If it does rain, we have no hope of an evening game drive. Rian seeing my face inquires what is wrong. I point towards the cloud saying,
“no game drive for us today” then I quickly say “ but I think it will pass”.
She looks convinced
After lunch it is back to tent, as we wait for Masai to come back to the camp and pass our tent. It is 4 pm and we are getting restless. A few minutes later Masai arrives, asking us to make our way down to the parking area in 30 minutes time. We reach the parking lot a few minutes after 4:30pm. In “our’ vehicle and in “our” seats are seated two Italian gentleman – new arrivals. On the back seat, are an elderly German couple. We take the remaining middle seats and they set off. Simon has traveled, so we have another driver today.
Much of the game we see is much of what we have already seen. We pass another huge herd of Wildebeest closer to the camp, as they move across Mara. The noise they make is comparable to that of donkeys. We move further on and come across one of the lions we had seen on the second day. He yawns quite a number of times. Either he is hungry or fed up with all these strange creatures staring at him. Another memorable sight is that of two elephants sparring each other. It looks like a lost battle for one, as he is much smaller in size but that isn’t something he is aware of, as he charges in again. We notice that, as the wildebeest make their way further on, the elephants return. Just a few meters ahead we come to the Mara River, as we peer across the banks, we notice a wildebeest crouched down on the ground, down by the water. The bank itself is quite steep. This unfortunate gnu must have been trampled on as the herd made its way across the river. The sun is almost setting, in the distance large rain clouds threaten to come down. It is time to head back to the camp. En route to the camp we stop by some hyenas. I have always heard people say that the noise they make is like someone laughing. Today, I hear it for the first time. It sounds so amusing, Rian and myself can’t help but laugh. They are in the mating season and seem quite content bathing in the muddy water. Hyenas are not one of the most handsomest of creatures and are known for stealing a fresh kill from the other predators.
This is indeed our last night in Mara, and it is pouring Elephants and Hippos. On arrival at the camp, a small umbrella is given to us. This helps us to reach our tent dry. Tonight we decide to spoil ourselves and order for “room” service. It is just to wet to move out. We spend our last night looking through the photos we have both taken. Lots of memories will be taken away with us, both in the photos and in our hearts. The game drive the next morning is at 6:30am.
My alarm doesn’t go off and I open my eyes to see it is already light. I look at my mobile clock and it is 5 minutes past 6am. Jumping out of bed, I wake up Rian and we both rush around like headless chickens. We agree to finish packing when we get back. Her flight leaves Mara at 11am. We rush down to the waiting area, foregoing a cup of tea. Our Italian compatriots are already seated in their places. Upon inquiry we are told the German couple have arranged a separate game drive later. ‘Masai’ is also missing in action. He, as we are told, has gone to Talek town to follow up an issue regarding the camp. I wonder how my flight out of Mara will work out without him around.
We catch the sun rise towards the east, more memories to carry with us. Further on, two lionesses look restless. They have been up hunting, though we do not see any kill nearby. One of them roars and runs away from the car. We see our two pregnant giraffes far off in the greenery. It is farewell to them.
It is whilst we are on the game drive; the driver gets a call to say that Rians flight is arriving in Mara at 10am, an hour earlier. It is past 8am and we are forced to head back to the camp. Breakfast is eaten in a hurry and we both rush to our tent, pack our things and rush back to the reception area. I too have officially checked out of the tent, as I have no intention of coming back to it in the absence of my friend.
I leave my bag in the reception area and join Rian in the vehicle. We take the same route as we did on the day of our arrival. I had earlier talked to the manager at the camp and we agreed that when I come back, I together with the Italians will be taken on an en route game drive back to the airport. My “lift” is expected to be at either 1am or 2 am. The Italians are departing on a 2am flight. Ironically they are flying back to Malindi on the same plane that I should have been on.
Though I have a few more hours left in Mara, I am sad. Especially since my companion on this trip is leaving. How I wish, I too was flying out with her. We arrive at the Olkiombo airstrip to find the plane has already landed. She is their only passenger from this airstrip. There is no time for goodbyes. Mara has this effect on everyone; it makes such an impression, that leaving is so difficult. I know Rians heart is heavy to leave Mara. Soon her plane is taxing away and within minutes it is in the air. That is the end of Mara for her.
My heart too, is heavy as we make our way back. Arriving at the camp, I gather my bag and head right back to the vehicle. Whilst at the camp, I receive a text message from Rian to say that she has already arrived in Nairobi. This time I decide to sit on the front seat. I say my goodbyes to the manager and other staff. This will be my last game drive in Mara for 2008. We reach a point where all I can see in the distance is black dots in their thousands. They seem to be moving to the north. Some forming lines others just running. They are the wildebeest, continuing with their task of moving across the Mara. This is a sight to behold. It is next to impossible to count how many they are. What phenomenon is this that makes thousands of animals risk their lives crossing rivers and traveling over large areas of land? They are the lucky ones who do not need documents to cross the border!
We stop under a tree and driver removes our lunches, packed in white paper boxes. I have no appetite to eat. It is now nearing 1am and we head to Olkiombo Airstrip. I am still unsure if I will indeed fly out of Mara today or will I be forced to spend a night alone in one of Olares tents!
At the airstrip there is a lone plane parked at one side, the pilot having spent the night at the nearby Mara Intrepids. The driver decides to approach the pilot and inquire if she can spare one seat for me. He returns with the good news that I am flying out of Mara on that plane. The only dampener of the good news is that the aircraft lands in Mombasa and not Malindi. That means that I will have to travel by road from Mombasa to Malindi ( which is a 2 hour journey by car). But at least I will be back in the coast.
At this stop the pilot is scheduled to pick 4 people. We have 2 other stops to make before we leave Mara. Once the plane is full to its capacity we make our final accent. I bid farewell to Masai Mara from the air, envying those who are remaining behind. As I look down, I make out a large herd of elephants.
I personally will never get tired of visiting Mara. No matter how many times you see the same kind of animal, it still feels like it is the first time.
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