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Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al

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by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)


  them everything their parents had been deprived of for so long. Although

  many young women temporarily left the work force to begin families,

  overall, married women’s labor force participation continued to rise after

  the war and has been rising ever since.

  INTERNATIONAL DEVELOPMENTS

  Although Europe had been embroiled in WWII since 1939, the United

  States had remained neutral in the conflict through the early years of the

  conflict. By summer 1941 Poland, China, France, Denmark, Norway,

  Great Britain, and the Soviet Union had all become victims of German,

  Italian, and Japanese aggression. As the War escalated, the United States

  found it more difficult to remain neutral as other nations were devastated.

  FDR worked with the U.S. Congress to revise the neutrality act to allow

  the United States to sell millions of tons of war material to Britain under

  the Lend-Lease Act of 1941.

  By December 1941, the United States was provoked into the war

  when the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor, a U.S naval base. Germany

  declared war on the United States three days later. The U.S. entry into

  the war transformed it into a truly global conflict.

  By 1945, the war that had dominated the political, social, and eco-

  nomic worlds for the better part of five years began its close. The war had

  The 1940s

  49

  destroyed many of Europe’s cities, and both civilian and military casualties

  had mounted. In April 1945, after the Soviets invaded Germany, Adolph

  Hitler committed suicide in his bunker. Grand Admiral Karl D€onitz

  became the new leader of Germany, but German resolve evaporated with

  the loss of Hitler. The German forces in Berlin, Italy, northern Germany,

  Denmark, The Netherlands, and France surrendered in May 1945.

  Although the Germans had given up the fight, the Japanese continued

  their attacks. In August 1945, Harry Truman, who assumed the presi-

  dency after FDR’s death in April, ordered a decisive attack on the Japa-

  nese to try to bring about a swift end to the war. U.S. bombers dropped

  nuclear bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki in Japan, which devastated

  the cities and killed or injured 225,000 people. (Lenman 1995, pp. 420,

  650). In addition, tens of thousands suffered and later died from the radi-

  ation. The Japanese surrendered six days later.

  The closing year of the war also set the stage for the Cold War that

  would dominate world relations for the next few decades. British Prime

  Minister Winston Churchill, U.S. President Franklin Roosevelt, and Soviet

  Premier Joseph Stalin met in Yalta in February 1945. During the conference

  they agreed to give Stalin control of Eastern Europe, but he did not allow

  free elections in his newly acquired land. As a result, Americans and the

  British grew hostile toward Russia, and hostility grew into the Cold War.

  European economies were devastated as a result of WWII, so the

  leading allied countries considered various plans to restore order to inter-

  national monetary relations. Twenty-nine countries created the Interna-

  tional Money Fund (IMF) in December 1945. The institution was

  designed to oversee the international monetary system, promote the elimi-

  nation of exchange restrictions relating to trade in goods and services, and

  support the stability of exchange rates. It approved its first loan on May

  9, 1947, of $250 million to France for postwar reconstruction. (Yeager

  1976).

  The Nuremburg Trials, which were conducted from 1945 to 1949,

  attempted to serve justice in the crimes that Nazis inflicted on Jews,

  Catholics, homosexuals, and others they deemed as ‘ undesirable.’’ The

  media coverage of the trials brought the unspeakable crimes into public

  consciousness. Americans responded to the atrocities with a shift toward

  conservatism and patriotism.

  Postwar U.S. foreign policy marked a distinct break from the isolation-

  ism that characterized the country before the war. U.S. President Harry

  Truman described the new strategy as the Truman Doctrine in a speech

  on March 12, 1947. He defined it by casting the United States as the

  ‘ world’s policeman.’’

  50

  POLITICAL AND CULTURAL EVENTS

  Nearly four years after WWII many European countries, the United

  States, and Canada were still fearful of attacks from other countries. In

  April 1949, they created a military alliance called the North Atlantic

  Treaty Organization (NATO). The member countries agreed to come to

  the defense of any other member country that was being attacked by an

  outside country.

  ETHNICITY IN AMERICA

  Jim Crow laws, a set of state and local laws in the American South,

  allowed ‘ separate, but equal’ treatment and accommodation for African

  Americans and whites. ‘‘Separate, but equal’ meant that African Ameri-

  cans and whites had separate schools, public bathrooms, and entrances to

  buildings. Invariably, the accommodations for African Americans were in-

  ferior to those of whites. After WWII, the Civil Rights Movement to

  eliminate these laws began to gain momentum. The U.S. Supreme Court

  began to rule some of these laws as unconstitutional. For example, the

  courts deemed segregation in interstate transportation was unconstitu-

  tional in 1946 in Irene Morgan v. Virginia.

  The sacrifice of African Americans during WWII brought renewed

  scrutiny to their treatment. Section 4(a) of the 1940 Selective Service Act

  clearly banned discrimination based on race or color. Even though the

  U.S. military was fighting against a racist dictator, Hitler, President

  Roosevelt refused to integrate the armed forces, believing it would under-

  mine military discipline and morale during a time of national crisis. Dur-

  ing the war, the Marine Corps excluded African Americans, the Navy

  used them as servants, and the Army created separate regiments for them.

  In 1948, President Truman abolished racial segregation in the U.S. armed

  forces.

  African-American women fared better than their male counterparts

  in the military. The Federal Nurses Training Bill prohibited racial bias

  in selection of candidates for nurses training, which allowed thousands of

  African-American women to enroll in the Cadet Nurse Corps. Many of

  them reached officer ranks, and the remarkable contributions of the more

  than 59,000 women in the army nurse corps helped to keep the mortality

  rate among American military forces very low (Willever-Farr and Para-

  scandola, n.d.).

  Native Americans played a unique role during WWII: they became

  the secret weapon that assisted the Marines in taking key Pacific holdings

  from the Japanese. Their secret was the Navajo language; its complexity

  made it the perfect unbreakable code. Race friction was not commonplace

  The 1940s

  51

  in the Marine Corps. The men worked together and depended on each

  other (Paul 1973).

  The concept of racial purity espoused by the Nazis disturbed many

  Americans. Congress passed the Alien Registration Act of 1940, which

  encouraged noncitizens to become citizens. The initi
ative was a success,

  with almost 1 million people acquiring citizenship between 1943 and

  1944. The country’s ideal was to merge the ethnicities into a single Ameri-

  can society, but nonwhites were not welcomed into this ideal.

  Although Mexican Americans were encouraged to serve in the mili-

  tary during the war, they tended to be given menial positions. In 1943,

  racial tensions flared when a group of white soldiers heard a false report

  that a Mexican American had beaten a white sailor. The ensuing violence

  was named the Zoot Suit Riots, after the distinctive suits worn by young

  Mexican Americans and African Americans. When there was a labor

  shortage for field workers in 1942, the U.S. government allowed thou-

  sands of Mexican immigrants to cross the border to work on farms in the

  southwest.

  Regardless of ethnicity, anyone who served in the armed forces could

  take advantage of the G.I. Bill. The bill provided money for education,

  and 8 million veterans took advantage of the bill and went to school

  rather than return directly to work. Education and professional status

  were now available to all ethnicities and income levels, but many schools

  had admissions policies that discriminated against women and blacks.

  R E F E R E N C E S

  Abbott, B. 1973. Changing New York: New York in the Thirties. New York: Dover.

  Andrist, R. K., ed. 1970. The American Heritage History of the 20s & 30s. New

  York: American Heritage Publishing Co., Inc.

  Baker, P. 1992. Fashions of a Decade: The 1940s. New York: Facts on File.

  Barlow, A. L. 2003. Between Fear and Hope: Globalization and Race in the United

  States. Lanham, MD: Rowman and Littlefield.

  Berkin, C., Miller, C. L., Cherny, R. W., and Gormly, J. L. 1995. Making Amer-

  ica: A History of the United States. Boston: Houghton Mifflin.

  Gordon, L., and Gordon, A. 1987. American Chronicle. Kingsport, TN: Kingsport

  Press, Inc.

  Kurian, G. T. 1994. Datapedia of the United States, 1790–2000. Lanham, MD:

  Bernan Press.

  Matanle, I. 1994. History of WWII, 1939–1945. Little Rock, AR: Tiger Books

  International.

  McKay, J. P. 1999. A History of Western Society. New York: Hougton Mifflin.

  52

  POLITICAL AND CULTURAL EVENTS

  Murrin, J. M., Johnson, P. E., McPherson, J. M., Gerstle, G., Rosenberg, E. S.,

  and Rosenberg, N. 2004. Liberty, Equality, Power: A History of the American

  People, Vol. 2 since 1863. Belmont, CA: Thomson.

  Perrett, G. 1982. America in the Twenties, A History. New York: Simon and

  Schuster.

  Reeves, T. C. 2000. Twentieth Century America: A Brief History. Oxford: Oxford

  University Press.

  Zinn, H. 1995. A People’s History of the United States. New York: Harpers

  Perennial.

  3

  Art and Entertainment

  In the first decade of the 1900s, art and entertainment had more in

  common with the previous century that it did with the next decades.

  Technological advances had a profound effect on the first half of the

  twentieth century. Not only did it shape the media being used, but it

  shaped the artists as well.

  The artists working in the first decade used a realistic style and subject

  matter. They glorified American landscapes whether they were mountains,

  plains, or shining seas. They also used gritty urban life as subject matter

  and were subsequently scolded by critics who dubbed these compositions

  as ‘Ash Can’ art.

  Refinements in photographic technology allowed ordinary people to

  own and easily operate a camera. Americans captured their lives and the

  landscapes and people around them. Documentary photographers became

  more prevalent and captured images of the less-glamorous side of Ameri-

  can life.

  Literature in the 1900s often included a moral message or a reflection

  of societal values. Horatio Alger stories were a popular example of this

  type of literature. The hero would begin the story in a desperate position,

  but through his hard work and good values, he would achieve success.

  Reformers also used literature to disseminate their messages.

  Popular music in the first decade of the century was a break from

  the past. Ragtime music emerged, and dance halls became a favorite

  53

  54

  ART AND ENTERTAINMENT

  entertainment spot. Theater was a widespread pastime in urban areas,

  whereas traveling and regional groups frequented rural areas. Vaudeville,

  operettas, and comedies were popular genres.

  In the 1910s, realism was still a widely used artistic style, but cubism

  emerged on the scene. Its two-dimensional geometric compositions were a

  strong contrast to other styles. Photographic technology made additional

  advances, allowing advances in motion pictures. The first full-length pic-

  ture was released during this decade, and the concept of the ‘ movie star’’

  was created.

  The audiences for art widened over the decade. Musical theater drew

  large audiences, and literature became more widely available. In the case

  of literature, the wide dissemination drew criticism of literary subject mat-

  ter and a call for censorship. Ethnic music, although it had existed before,

  saw a wider distribution than in previous decades.

  The 1920s were fertile with artistic movements, including art deco,

  Bauhaus, cubism, Dadaism, and surrealism. These movements permeated

  nearly all art forms from paintings and sculpture to architecture and liter-

  ature. By the end of the decade, this generation of artists had thoroughly

  broken with the past.

  The Jazz Era began during the 1920s by starting in small clubs. By

  the end of the decade, the style had been incorporated into big bands and

  was on its way into mainstream popularity in the 1930s. Energetic danc-

  ing to this fast-tempo music dominated dance halls.

  Motion pictures made their leap to ‘‘talkies.’’ Although some actors

  saw their careers vanish because their voices did not fit their portrayals,

  the new technology set the stage for the popularity of musicals in subse-

  quent decades. Stars existed in every genre, and movie studios generated

  enormous publicity campaigns to keep their stars in the limelight.

  During the 1920s, radio had emerged from its infancy. More and

  more households acquired a radio, not just for newscasts but for concerts,

  comedy and drama programming, and the incredibly popular sporting

  events.

  Art deco and surrealism continued to remain popular in the 1930s.

  Art deco especially fit in with the minimalism brought on by the Great

  Depression. The Depression also renewed the artistic interest in rural

  America and regionalism. The United States witnessed an influx of Euro-

  pean artists who fled as Adolph Hitler’s aggressions intensified.

  By the mid 1930s, big band music was mainstream and requisite in

  dance halls. Technological innovations in music recording and radios

  helped publicize new music styles and new artists. By the end of the dec-

  ade, radio programming became stable, and advertisers were a staple in

  The 1900s

  55

/>   most popular programs. FDR reached out to Americans via the radio in

  his fireside chats.

  Despite the economic hardships of the decade, movies continued to be

  a popular attraction. American audiences visited the movie theater as of-

  ten as they could, often weekly. The demand and interest in stars kept the

  movie studios’ publicity machines going. The United States Motion Pic-

  ture Production Code was enacted during this decade and imposed tight

  moral restrictions on movie studios.

  In the 1940s, artists embraced Modernism, and some, such as Jackson

  Pollack, used Abstract Expressionism. The arts became more introspective

  and focused on the individual, whether it was created by a visual artist,

  musician, or writer.

  During WWII, big band music remained popular, and it served as a

  reminder of home to the troops abroad. Increasingly, vocalists were fea-

  tured in compositions and became popular in their own right. After the

  war, Bebop and Cool Jazz emerged as new musical styles.

  Radio matured and nearly every American household owned a set. By

  the end of the decade, the new medium of television had taken hold. Af-

  ter the war, Americans could afford to purchase these new entertainment

  luxuries. As more sets were purchased, programming increased.

  Movies were in their golden age during the 1940s. Movie stars gen-

  erated huge public interest, and high-caliber movies were being produced

  every year. Musicals became extremely popular, and the most bankable

  stars could sing, dance, and act. In addition, Hollywood generated numer-

  ous comedy shorts, serials, and animation shorts. At the beginning of the

  century, no one could anticipate the interest that movies would generate

  by the 1940s.

  T H E

  1900S

  ART MOVEMENTS

  One of the most famous artists of this period was Charles Dana Gibson.

  Arguably, his most famous creation was ‘‘the Gibson girl,’’ a young girl

  with her hair in curls, shirtwaist blouses, and simple skirts. She became a

  model for many young women in the first two decades of the twentieth

  century. The Gibson girl was an illustration of the ideal American

  woman, admired by working women as well as her wealthier sisters. She

  was not obviously a suffragette, nor a temperance advocate slinging an axe

  in a saloon.

 

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