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Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al

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by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)


  painting’s proper name. Most people recognize the painting as Whistler’s

  Mother.

  The 1910s represented a fertile period of new technologies in photog-

  raphy. In 1912, a process was developed that would allow color pictures to

  be developed. This led to what Kodak called ‘‘Kodachrome’’ and further

  revolutionized photography. Photography also contributed to the motion

  picture industry when it developed a way of making moving pictures.

  LITERATURE AND MUSIC

  The censoring of literature that emerged in the 1900s continued in the

  1910s. Authors such as F. Scott Fitzgerald were eager to create stories

  that the youths of America wanted to read, but they had to worry about

  censorship. This made creativity and innovation difficult. Many magazine

  articles, books, nickelodeons, films, and even newspapers were subject to

  censorship. What was permissible was different from community to com-

  munity, which made it hard for authors to appeal to a wide audience.

  Increased availability of transportation and a more reliable mail system

  allowed a variety of materials to be seen by anyone who wanted to see

  them. A person might have to travel to another city or county to do it,

  but they were available. Because the automobile was becoming increas-

  ingly popular, it was not difficult for anyone who really wanted to find a

  censored book to do so. Many popular authors of the time were Edith

  Wharton, Willa Cather, Jack London, Zane Grey, T. S. Eliot (who wrote

  The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock in 1915), Robert Frost, Carl Sandburg,

  and Edna St. Vincent Millay.

  Music, especially in New York City, started to cross cultures. Up to

  this point, most music stayed within the culture in which it was written.

  With the popularity of music produced in Tin Pan Alley and the spread

  of the phonograph, ethnic music became American music. Irish songs

  such as ‘‘My Wild Irish Rose’’ (1899), ‘ When Irish Eyes Are Smiling’’

  (1912), and ‘‘Danny Boy’ (1913) became popular throughout the country.

  Irish music was not the only popular ethnic music.

  African-American music entered the mainstream with the publication

  of the blues song ‘‘Memphis Blues’’ in 1912. The song was originally writ-

  ten to attract attention to a local election in Memphis, Tennessee. The

  sheet music for the song sold out in three days, but the store told the

  composer, William Christopher Handy, that the song was a failure.

  He sold the rights to the song for $50 (Handy 1991, 108). When he dis-

  covered that he had been swindled, Handy wrote several other songs that

  The 1910s

  63

  became at least as popular as his first song. The blues quickly became part

  of American music.

  The blues, a bit of ragtime, and other components of African-

  American music, combined with a touch of the classical music of Europe

  and the United States, would ultimately lead to the creation of jazz.

  Depending on one’s definition of jazz, the style began in the early 1900s

  or developed in the 1920s. The seeds, however, of what would become a

  distinctive musical style were mostly collected in the early years of the

  twentieth century.

  THEATER AND MOVIES

  The second decade of the new millennium also brought with it a won-

  drous form of entertainment: the movie theater. The first movies, starting

  in about 1902, were essentially short films of a variety of topics, but they

  were rapidly developing. The first feature-length motion picture

  was Queen Elizabeth, in 1912, staring Sarah Bernhardt. Some movies

  were serialized, as in The Perils of Pauline, or comedies with such stars as

  Charlie Chaplin.

  Mary Pickford became famous in 1901 and was one of the first movie

  stars. Called ‘America’s Sweetheart,’’ she seemed to be the kind of young

  woman everyone wanted young women to be. Her popularity grew along

  with the popularity of movies. Originally a minor actress on Broadway,

  she earned $25 a week until about 1910. That year, she was lured to Hol-

  lywood for the unheard-of salary of $175 per week. By 1915, her salary

  had been raised from $1,000 to $2,000 per week plus 50 percent of the

  profits (Lowrey 1920, 157), all without saying a word for the camera.

  In 1914, William Fox cast an actress named Theda Bara in a movie

  about a woman with an uninhibited (for the time) sexual appetite. Bara’s

  character led to the coining of the term ‘ vamp.’’ She had used the term to

  discuss a character in a vampire movie, but the term stuck to her. It came

  to mean a woman who had a mind of her own, actually enjoyed men and

  sex, and would do as she pleased.

  Almost overnight movies became popular, and the actors and actresses

  in these productions became household names. The concept of a movie

  star quickly emerged from this new medium. Actresses became very influ-

  ential in transforming fashion and attitudes. Women wanted to copy the

  dress, hair style, and opinions of their favorite star.

  Some stars, such as Lillian Russell, helped to change lifestyles in a

  slightly different way. She loved the freedom a bicycle gave her. She did

  not like the restrictions found in fancy clothes, corsets, and yards of

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  ART AND ENTERTAINMENT

  material in skirts. She adopted a simpler style of dress, and women every-

  where began to follow her lead. Russell was also willing to tell people

  what she thought of just about anything, and many people would copy

  her style, hoping to be like her.

  One of the reasons for the popularity of the early movies was one of

  its limitations: the movies had no sound. By today’s standards, that would

  be a problem. When many large cities had a large immigrant population,

  the action on the screen could be followed by anyone regardless of his or

  her native language. A Russian could be seated next to a Chinese immi-

  grant and both of them could understand the movie equally well. The

  movies were one of the most popular forms of entertainment for the poor

  who could not afford anything else. This egalitarianism was not deliber-

  ate, but it did encourage the growth of this form of entertainment.

  This popularity created a new industry. Hollywood learned quickly

  that sex sells, and it produced many movies that incited conservative

  groups. Many of these movies featured enticing temptresses like Theda

  Bara rather than ‘‘good girls’’ like Mary Pickford.

  Interestingly, Thomas Edison claimed that the movie studios had to

  pay him a royalty for using the cameras he invented. The studios found

  an easy way to dodge this expense. If a producer or movie studio was

  afraid of going over budget for a film, the film crew would leave and fin-

  ish the film in Mexico, only about one hundred miles away, to avoid pay-

  ing the royalty.

  During the 1910s, musical theater was a popular form of entertain-

  ment. As movies got longer and longer, musical theater productions were

  adapted for film. Florenz Ziegfeld created a group called the ‘‘Follies

  Girls,’’ which was made up of young women who would dance to some of<
br />
  the popular music. Although the Follies Girls debuted on Broadway, it

  made a very successful transition to film. What astounded many was the

  dress, or lack of it, of the young women. They were a hit and would

  remain so for many years. Many young women would dream of becoming

  a Follies Girl. Some of them wanted to be seen because many of the early

  ones married millionaires, but Follies Girls were also well paid. In a dec-

  ade when the average annual salary was $750, a Follies Girl could earn

  $75 a week (Mizejewski 1999).

  After the United States declared war in 1917, the young movie indus-

  try and the thriving theaters put their talent and energy into the war

  effort. Many productions were blatantly patriotic and served as propa-

  ganda. One production was named The Barbarous Hun and was meant to

  portray the Germans poorly. Other movies were used to get people

  involved in some form of help for the soldiers. At some point, just about

  all popular actors and actresses were selling Liberty Bonds. Many could

  sell thousands of dollars of bonds during one performance of a play. Other

  The 1910s

  65

  The Silent Screen Star. In the 1910s,

  biographies, letters to the editor, and

  silent movies became a national obses-

  popularity contests. Many times, the

  sion, and film actors and actresses such as

  content of these magazines were filled

  Theda Bara, Rudolph Valentino, and, in

  with stories manufactured by studios.

  1920, Clara Bow, became stars. Studios

  Even newspapers included tidbits about

  worked to promote their new stars by

  the upcoming roles of popular actors and

  blurring the lines between the character

  actresses.

  and actor. The movie studio transformed

  During the 1910s, movies were often

  the actress Theodosia Goodman, the

  called photo plays, and individual writers

  daughter of a Cincinnati tailor, into the

  were called on to write 100 150 stories

  exotic Theda Bara, the daughter of a

  a year. Usually, they created stories

  French artist and his Arabian mistress.

  ‘ made to order’’ to promote a certain

  Studios fueled the fixation on their

  actor or actress, but sometimes they

  stars by creating fan materials, including

  had to incorporate a specific locale or an

  lobby cards, trade photos, and even

  animal

  the

  studio

  had

  purchased

  Dixie cup tops. Fan magazines became

  (New York Times, August 3, 1913). The

  popular among movie goers. Two maga-

  obsession with movies and stars may

  zines, Motion Picture Story and Photoplay,

  have launched in the 1910s, but it would

  were founded in 1911. Fan magazines

  grow to new heights in the following

  were filled with plot synopses, star

  decades.

  Actress Clara Bow in a sultry pose. [Library of Congress]

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  ART AND ENTERTAINMENT

  stars could be seen rolling bandages or doing some form of activity to en-

  courage Americans to work toward the war effort. Many actors and musi-

  cians took to the road, volunteering their time and talent to raise money

  for the Red Cross.

  T H E

  1920S

  ART MOVEMENTS

  A number of art movements and artists continued from the previous dec-

  ade through the 1920s and beyond. Both Dadaism and cubism were

  movements of the previous decade, begun in response to WWI. They

  directly influenced the surrealist movement that began in the 1920s.

  The Wiener Werkstatte, an Arts and Crafts workshop in Vienna, was

  established in the early 1900s around the notion of the ‘‘Gesamt-

  kunstwerk,’’ a total work of art that integrates ‘ all of the various design

  elements in a single aesthetic environment’ (Kallie 1986). The craftspeo-

  ple and artists who contributed to the work created fabrics, clothing,

  ceramics, jewelry, and furniture. Gustav Klimt, Josef Hoffmann, and

  Dagobert Peche were all members of the group. In 1921, the Wiener

  Werstatte opened a branch in New York, although it faced difficulties by

  the 1920s and had disbanded by the early 1930s.

  DeStijl (meaning ‘‘the style’’) was a collective founded by Dutch artist

  Theo van Doesburg in 1917. Lasting through the twenties, this move-

  ment was also often referred to as Neo-Plasticism and incorporated the

  strict use of geometric shapes in architecture, painting, and sculpture. The

  most well-known DeStijl artist was painter Piet Mondrian. In the 1920s,

  Mondrian continued to develop his distinct geometric style.

  The most well-known painters of this era were generally moving from

  one style toward a new idiom. Henri Matisse, who had experimented with

  cubism early on, continued to explore a modernist style. Cubism origina-

  tor Pablo Picasso began to move towards surrealism during the 1920s,

  although his interest in a variety of interrelated styles makes him difficult

  to pin down (Cole and Gealt 1989). Georgia O’Keefe, who worked with

  photographer Alfred Stieglitz, developed a style that focused on female

  sexuality during this era.

  Many of the art movements to come out of the 1920s were based on

  grand exhibitions that encompassed a variety of disciplines. Art deco is

  one of the major styles to come out of the 1920s. A kind of geometric

  The 1920s

  67

  abstraction, this style was first introduced at the Arts Decoratifs et Indus-

  triels Moderns held in Paris in 1925. It is from this exhibit that the style

  derived its name. Architecture, industrial design, graphic arts, and fashion

  design of the 1920s frequently reflect the art deco aesthetic. The United

  States saw a rise in its popularity during the 1930s and into the 1940s.

  The Bauhaus, a modernist art school based in Germany, lasted from

  1919 to 1933. Architect Walter Gropius founded the school to teach

  architecture, arts, crafts, theater, typography, weaving, and other applied

  arts. His intention was to create functional, classic architecture that could

  be easily produced by machine. Professors included Paul Klee and Wassily

  Kandinsky, who would become more well known as artists in the 1930s.

  Architect and designer Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, who had been the

  head of the Deutscher Werkbund in the 1920s, was director of the Bau-

  haus from 1930 until it succumbed to political pressure from the Nazis

  and closed in 1933.

  Art and fashion frequently mingled during the 1920s, often with the

  artist choosing to branch out into fashion. Cubist painter Sonia Delaunay

  was one such individual, as were many of the Russian Constructivists,

  such as Varvara Stepanova. (Cole and Gealt 1989).

  Fashion photography also came into its own during this period, having

  largely replaced illustration in fashion magazines by 1925. The photo-

  graphs of Baron de Meyer, Edward Steichen, Man Ray, Cecil Beaton,

  and George Hoyningen-Huene were most often used in the pages of
>
  Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar to use avant-garde styles to display the fashions

  of the day (Mendes and De La Haye 1999).

  MUSIC AND LITERATURE

  Although the 1920s is most often recognized as the Jazz Era, classical

  music retained an avid following as well. Modernism extended into the

  musical world, and Claude Debussy was regarded as ‘ ultra-modern.’’

  Another ‘ modernist’ composer who came to the fore in the twenties was

  Igor Stravinsky, who took much inspiration from Bach. The French

  musician Erik Satie had become a major force in the classical world by

  1922. Another innovative French group of the twenties was Les Six and

  consisted of Louis Durey, Germaine Tailleferre, Francis Poulenc, Arthur

  Honneger, Darius Milhaud, and Geroges Auric. They worked with Jean

  Cocteau to develop their unique sound.

  Popular music of the twenties was dominated by jazz, at first limited

  to the African-American community and slowly branching out to the

  world at large. Although jazz is generally considered to be a U.S.

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  ART AND ENTERTAINMENT

  invention, it found audiences the world over, especially in Paris. Initially

  played in small clubs, especially in Chicago and Harlem, it eventually

  made its way to big bands and Broadway. Artists such as Jelly Roll

  Morton, Louis Armstrong, Duke Ellington, and Cab Calloway and blues

  chanteuses such as Bessie Smith and Ma Rainey have since become

  legends in the genre. Dancing was popular as an evening activity, and one

  of the most well known of the social dances was the Charleston, which

  was born when a song was published under this title (Andrist 1970).

  The 1920s saw the rise of some of the prominent American writers.

  ‘ The Lost Generation’ included Gertrude Stein, who coined the phrase,

  Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, John Dos Passos, and Sinclair

  Lewis, among others. During this time, expatriate Ernest Hemingway

  published The Sun Also Rises, which made the best-sellers list. F. Scott

  Fitzgerald, perhaps the voice of his generation, produced This Side of Par-

  adise. Both Hemingway and Fitzgerald focused on postwar youth. Sinclair

  Lewis’ Main Street and Babbitt, of the early twenties, were two of the

  most popular novels of the decade. Although he refused it, Lewis was

  awarded the Pulitzer Prize for Arrowsmith in 1925.

  A number of other prominent novelists developed during the decade.

 

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