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Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al

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by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)


  tablecloths.

  outside the home needed to become more acceptable for businesses to

  succeed. As more women worked, the accepted standards of morality

  began to change.

  In a minor way, President Theodore Roosevelt may have helped the

  cause of the ‘ new woman.’’ His daughter Alice was not a prim and proper

  example of Victorian womanhood. Alice had a mind of her own and felt

  no restrictions if she wanted to share her opinions. Alice enjoyed causing

  trouble in staid Washington, DC. People felt that if the president allowed

  his daughter to adopt a modern role, they should be able to treat their

  own daughters the same way.

  SEXUALITY AND MORALITY

  Sexuality at the beginning of the twentieth century was considered a mas-

  culine characteristic. It was common knowledge that men had sexual

  desires, and many men saw nothing wrong with satisfying those desires.

  Women were raised to be mothers, not sexual creatures. Sex was consid-

  ered a woman’s duty and necessary for the production of children, but

  women were not supposed to have sexual desires. They were to satisfy

  their husband’s desires and to produce children, especially boys who could

  carry on the family name.

  Men were considered to be far more passionate than women, so it was

  not uncommon for men to engage in sexual activities outside their home.

  In many situations, these extramarital affairs were frowned on only if the

  relationship was obvious. Sexual relations with women other than a man’s

  wife were accepted, provided they did not exceed the boundaries of a

  given community’s tolerance. In wealthy families, it was not uncommon

  for the wife to have a party or other social activity without her husband.

  Women, however, had little, if any, latitude regarding appropriate sex-

  ual behavior. It was totally unacceptable for any woman to display an

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  ‘ unnatural’ desire for sex simply for pleasure. Because women can get

  pregnant, many women who had sex outside of the boundaries of mar-

  riage were ostracized and considered to be somehow unfit and possibly

  even evil. A community’s reaction to a pregnant, unmarried woman, or a

  woman who was not pregnant with her husband’s child, could face a vari-

  ety of sanctions, depending on the size and location of the community.

  Many families would not allow their unmarried daughters to associate

  with a pregnant, unmarried woman for fear that the reputation of the

  ‘ innocent’ daughter would be damaged. That might mean that the

  daughter could not get a good husband, which was the primary goal for

  most young women.

  Most people expected to be married for life, because most marriages

  existed until one of the partners died. Divorce was rarely an option; at the

  beginning of the century, only about 5 percent of the entire population

  had been divorced (Chadwick and Heaton 1992). There were times when

  divorce would have been socially acceptable, usually when a man refused

  to support his wife and children, but many women would not divorce a

  husband because they had no skills to support a family without the hus-

  band’s presence. In some cases, women could return to their birth families,

  but many women did not have relatives who could support a woman with

  children. Whereas a divorced woman also found it difficult to remarry, a

  divorced man usually had no problem.

  This dual sense of morality existed in one form or another for centu-

  ries. It might have been modified somewhat in the frontier communities

  in the latter half of the nineteenth century. Some frontier communities

  had few women, and those women were allowed more freedoms than

  women in the more established rural communities of the east. It was not

  uncommon for a young woman to come west to live in a town with few

  other single women. A young girl could become a prostitute, earn a re-

  spectable amount of money, and then later make a good marriage. Once

  she was married, her past had little meaning. Once the community began

  to grow, however, and the number of men and women were more equal,

  this tolerance diminished. This change in behavior was attributable par-

  tially to the fact that many women from ‘ back east,’’ with their more con-

  servative expectations, were now living in what had been a more liberal

  community.

  Originally, families needed many children because the children could

  be put to work on the family farm. Many children also died before they

  grew to maturity, so families needed a high birth rate to partially compen-

  sate for the high child mortality rate. As the country grew and became

  urbanized and healthcare improved, large numbers of children were no

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  123

  longer a necessity. Some women wanted to limit the size of their families,

  for a variety of reasons, but birth control was not considered an appropri-

  ate topic for discussion or an appropriate choice for any woman.

  In the latter part of the 1800s, birth control and abortion became, if

  not popular topics of conversation, at least more available if one knew

  how to find information. Literature on birth control was easy to obtain

  through the mail. Accurate information, however, was harder to get. The

  birth rate was declining, but sex, menstruation, birth control, and abortion

  were considered inappropriate topics of conversation, even between a

  woman and her doctor.

  This was taken to such an extreme that it was not even wise for a male

  physician to look directly at a woman while she was giving birth. It was

  thought that the physician would develop ‘ impure’’ ideas if he actually

  saw his patient naked. Some women would not let their husbands see

  them naked and refused to visit a doctor because of their sense of mod-

  esty. Women began to get medical training, but women physicians were

  rare. Those women who did practice medicine were thought to be abor-

  tionists and were frequently ostracized.

  GROWING UP IN AMERICA

  Considering what is known in the twenty-first century about children and

  how to raise a child, it is somewhat surprising that so many children from

  earlier centuries actually survived childhood. The first obstacle was child-

  birth. Many children, or their mothers, did not survive childbirth in the

  early days of this century because little was known about infections and

  how to prevent excessive bleeding. Very little was known about miscar-

  riages or reasons for early births. If a woman was going into labor before

  the fetus had matured enough to live on its own, there was little a woman

  could do to help her child.

  Once born, infants in urban areas were often raised in less than sani-

  tary conditions because everyone lived in those conditions. Other than the

  wealthiest city dwellers, most urbanites dealt with inadequate sewer sys-

  tems, lack of clean water, and air pollution from factories. Because the

  general public did not understand germs, children’s diapers might not be

  washed thoroughly between uses. Many children would be wrapped so

  that
they could hardly move. They would be left like that for hours, if not

  an entire day. This practice continued even into the beginning of the

  twentieth century.

  Healthy children might be in contact with sick children or sick adults.

  Standard medications for childhood diseases did not exist. If a child

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  caught the measles, it was potentially fatal. If a child cried a lot, good

  parents were known to give their children alcohol or drugs to quiet them.

  Some children were even given laudanum, an opium derivative, to keep

  them calm and quiet.

  Because mothers had almost total supervision of their children, they

  were deemed responsible for the outcome of their children. If a child was

  too noisy, too lazy, or did not behave as the community expected, it was

  the mother’s fault. The Victorian ideal that the woman was responsible

  for the family’s morality continued in the first decade of the century.

  Unless a girl was born into a wealthy family, she was expected to help

  her mother with her younger siblings as well as the household chores.

  Depending on where the family lived, a girl might attend some school. If

  a school was available, some girls would attend only when they were not

  needed at home. Most families did not think that girls needed as much

  education as boys did. Many women, especially in rural areas, received

  very little education.

  Girls born into urban families might have no education at all. If they

  were old enough, some girls would stay at home and care for their siblings

  and keep house while their parents were working. In some cases, children

  could earn more than their parents did, so both girls and boys would get

  jobs as soon as they were able to do so. Most of these jobs lasted ten or

  more hours a day and consisted of difficult work that adults did not want

  to do or could not do.

  Generally speaking, most boys were raised with the belief that they

  needed to learn the skills necessary to be a wage earner. Some boys would

  become apprentices, some would work on farms or at unskilled labor, and

  some, if the family could afford it, would attend school. Girls, conversely,

  would learn the domestic skills they would need when they became wives

  and mothers. Many girls, however, would learn skills such as needlecraft

  or singing, but they rarely learned the skills necessary to run a household.

  Many marriages suffered when a young wife was suddenly faced with the

  need to cook, clean, and manage a household.

  Urban children of the working-class poor, which included most of the

  newly arrived immigrants, usually started working as soon as they were

  old enough. Many children worked in dirty, dangerous jobs that needed

  someone small or agile, and children were prime candidates. Many of

  these jobs were cleaning up after the older adult workers. Children, for

  example, would take away the used bobbin spools in mills and return with

  full bobbins so the adults could continue their work. They worked long

  hours and got little pay. What money they did earn they brought home to

  their families.

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  125

  Society was not making children work. Children started working

  because business owners became increasingly greedy. There were no rules

  or guidelines to protect workers from unscrupulous supervisors. If the na-

  ture of the work did not require an adult, many business owners simply

  hired children because children earned less money. In some communities,

  the parents could not find work because companies hired children. Thus,

  to have any money, a family would be forced to send the children to

  work.

  Some children, especially girls, did not work outside their home. They

  worked in their homes. Many mothers had to go to work because they

  had no husband or because their husband’s job did not pay enough to sup-

  port the family. These mothers would have to entrust the care of the chil-

  dren to the oldest children in the families. These children, if they were

  old enough, would actually remain at home and care for their smaller

  siblings. Some children would be sent to live with other relatives until

  the parents were able to obtain jobs that could keep the entire family

  together.

  Another option was for the mother and the children to work at home.

  This would allow the mother to be home with her children, but she

  would have to enlist the aid of her children in the job as well. Many

  times, the children would have little or no schooling, because they were

  needed to help supply income to the family. Poor families wanted their

  children to get educations because they viewed education as the way out

  of poverty.

  Initially, there were no laws that covered child labor. As the use of

  child labor grew unchecked, many practices got worse. Only in the 1900s

  did some of the advocates of the Progressive movement begin to push for

  change. One such demonstration was led by an Irish-born woman called

  ‘‘Mother Jones.’’ In 1903, in an attempt to gain recognition for the plight

  of child workers, she organized a march of children past President Theo-

  dore Roosevelt’s home in Long Island. Mother Jones also managed to

  have the march publicized. Her intent was to make a comparison between

  Roosevelt’s children and the child workers. Roosevelt did not acknowl-

  edge the children, but the publicity helped Mother Jones draw attention

  to the needs of children.

  African-American families wanted their children educated, but preju-

  dice kept the children in poorer schools. Their parents were not able to

  get jobs that would allow the children to attend a better school. In many

  cases, African-American women would have to take jobs as domestic

  workers, because that was the only job they could get. For many women,

  this meant that they would have to live in the home of their employer

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  THE INDIVIDUAL AND FAMILY

  and be ready to do any work that the employer wanted done at any time.

  Many African-American women rarely got to see their children, unless

  they quit their jobs.

  Children in the middle and upper classes were able to get some formal

  education. Children who did not live in urban areas might have to be sent

  away to school, but children in cities frequently had schools they could

  attend that were close to home. Boys would attend school to learn the

  skills necessary to acquire an occupation and earn the money necessary to

  maintain a family.

  T H E

  1910S

  MARRIAGE AND FAMILY

  Perhaps because parents had some idea of the restrictions place on married

  women, young, unmarried American women were allowed considerable

  freedom. This freedom, however, totally disappeared, for most women, the

  moment they married. Visitors to the United States were surprised at this

  sudden shift of behaviors. Over time, American women began to wonder

  about it themselves. Young women debated the benefits of a restricted

  married life versus a life as an unmarried spinster. Although most women

  ultimate
ly did marry, an increasing number of them believed that married

  women should have some of the freedoms of their unmarried sisters.

  At the end of the nineteenth century and the beginning of the twenti-

  eth, ‘ women’s causes’’ were varied. It was not unusual for a woman to

  want more freedom, but many of them were also anti-abortion and anti-

  suffrage. There were many women who wanted the right to vote but did

  not think women needed additional changes in their lives.

  There were just as many women who vocally opposed the changes that

  feminists proposed. They believed that the concepts of feminism and fam-

  ily were fundamentally at conflict. Like women’s rights activists, they saw

  feminism as the right to lead one’s own life as an individual. Anti-suffrage

  women saw the feminist as turning her back on society and family. They

  also saw it as deposing the man as the breadwinner of the family. These

  women held meetings and lectures at private houses and in public places

  to disseminate their opinions. These meetings were often covered in local

  newspapers.

  Young marriages continued to be frequent in the 1910s. The marriage

  of minors became a Supreme Court issue in 1910, when the court found

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  127

  a conflict in the Domestic Relations Act that governed marriages. One

  portion of the act allowed city clerks to issue marriage licenses to minors

  as long as there was parental permission. Another portion of the act gave

  courts the right to void marriages of minors. For a period, city clerks

  stopped issuing licenses to minors, which included men under 21 and

  women under 18, until the conflict in the law could be resolved (New York

  Times 1910).

  Once a woman married, she was expected to give up her job, stay at

  home, and take care of her husband. This belief remained prevalent in the

  1910s despite a Supreme Court ruling that made it illegal to dismiss a

  female employee because she was married. In 1913, many teachers in the

  New York public school system hid their marriages to continue working,

  because the school system opposed employing married women (New York

  Times March 23, 1913).

  WWI created a ‘ matrimonial drive’’ among many young men. When

  President Wilson announced in 1917 that the draft may be instituted for

  single men aged 19 to 25, many young couples rushed their wedding

 

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