Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al

by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)

  narrow or wide. V, round, or square necklines were common, as were

  Medici, fold-over, and sailor collars.

  Compared with the previous decade, the blouses of this period had

  simple embellishments. Necklines and cuffs were trimmed with ruffles or

  lace. Embroidery, pleating, and buttons were frequently used to decorate

  blouses.

  In 1918, a bohemian-style blouse became popular. This garment was

  loose fitting with full sleeves that gathered into a cuff. The yoke of the

  blouse was embroidered with bohemian designs. Sometimes this blouse

  was worn tucked in, whereas it was worn as a belted tunic at other times.

  Pants. When the United States joined WWI, overalls were marketed

  to women because they took up many of the jobs and chores of men who

  left to serve in the war. Made from heavyweight chambray, overalls were

  loose fitting and belted at the waist. The full, loose pants gathered into

  narrow, buttoned cuffs at the ankle. They were available in one- and two-

  piece versions. One style, which was worn with a blouse, had a round

  neck and two straps that crossed in the back. Other versions could be

  worn without a blouse. These came in a variety of styles, including long

  sleeves, short sleeves, V necks, and collared. Invariably, they had large

  patch pockets on the front of the pants. Solid blue and tan were popular

  colors, but many styles came in stripes and checks.

  Skirts. Skirts sat high on the waist and usually did not have a waist-

  band. The wideness of skirts at the hip was accentuated by overskirts that

  reached a variety of lengths from mid-thigh to mid-calf. Sometimes pleat-

  ing at lower leg was added for enhanced ease of movement. Commonly

  used as trim, rows of buttons were arranged in various places on the skirt,

  including the side, overskirt, underskirt, and near the waist.

  Other Separates. Sweaters gained popularity during this period.

  Although cardigan styles had been commonly worn for some time, pull-

  overs became popular in 1915. They had a straight fit, were belted at the

  hip, and had long sleeves. Coco Chanel is credited for popularizing pull-

  overs (Tortora and Eubank 2005).

  OUTERWEAR

  Coats

  In general, coats grew wider to accommodate wide skirts. As skirt hems

  began to flare out at the end of 1915, coat hems followed the trend. Most

  were cut full, but many had loose belts or belts along the back. Ankle-length

  coats were fashionable in 1914, but three-quarter-length coats became pop-

  ular in 1916. By 1918, sport-length coats were popular as well. These ended

  1914–1919, World War I

  193

  above the knee and flared out from the waistband. Fur coats followed the

  full-cut, loose silhouette, and they usually featured a straight hem.

  Raglan sleeves that ended in cuffs were fashionable throughout the

  decade. Shawl collars, collars with notched lapels, and square-back collars

  were all common. Silk embroidered with Asian designs was inlayed into

  the wide collars. Fur collars were fashionable as well. Velour, wool, fur,

  and corduroy were used to make fall and winter coats, while cotton, linen,

  silk moire, and satin were used for spring coats.

  The war’s military influence can be seen in the popular copy of mili-

  tary trench coat. It was full cut and belted. Its straight sleeves were embel-

  lished with straps and buttons like a typical men’s trench coat. Also, it

  had a large, stand-up collar and large patch pockets with pocket flaps.

  Epaulets were added to the shoulders of coats, too.

  Raincoats were much longer than other coats of this period. They

  were ankle length to protect the garments underneath. The back was cut

  full and belted. Usually, they had close-fitting sleeves with cuffs, but ki-

  mono, raglan, and cape sleeves were also available. Raincoats were made

  from a variety of fabrics, which were coated on the inside with rubber to

  make them waterproof.

  SWIMWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR

  Swimwear

  Women wore a variety of suit styles. Knit wool tank styles were worn by

  athletic women. These had round or V necklines, were sleeveless, and had

  shorts that extended to the mid-thigh. Generally, these were worn with

  long stockings. Most women wore woven silk or cotton swim dresses with

  knit wool undersuits. These suits had round or V necklines, and some-

  times they had a collar. They were sleeveless or had short sleeves. They

  often buttoned up the front and had a belt. The skirt of the dress

  extended to the mid-thigh. In between these two styles there were knit

  jersey swim dresses. These hugged the body like the tank style but then

  ended in a skirt instead of shorts.

  Golf

  Typically, women wore wide, calf-length skirts with a middy blouse or a

  pullover sweater to play golf.

  Tennis

  To play tennis, women would wear middy blouses and loose full skirts. A

  more casual style of blouse, the middy blouse, or middy coat, was a sturdy

  194

  WOMEN’S FASHIONS

  cotton, loose-fitting tunic. These blouses were worn with skirts for a wide

  variety of athletic pursuits. Usually, the collar was a sailor collar with a

  necktie beneath it, but sometimes stylized notched collars were used. The

  blouses had three-quarter-length or full-length loose sleeves. These func-

  tional garments usually had patch pockets on the front. By 1918, loose

  belts were added to the blouse.

  Skirts were full but narrower than everyday skirts. They were shorter,

  coming an inch or two higher than mid-calf. They usually had pockets

  but few other adornments.

  Skiwear

  American women were expected to wear skirts while skiing as a way to

  retain their modesty and femininity in an unfeminine sport. They usually

  wore long, full wool skirts with sweaters, although their European coun-

  terparts wore more sensible pants.

  Other Activewear

  For horseback riding or cycling, women wore dresses or skirts with di-

  vided skirts. Some styles obscured the skirt division with a flap that could

  be unbuttoned in the front. Norfolk-style jackets, middy blouses, and

  other blouse styles would be worn with the skirt.

  UNDERWEAR AND INTIMATE APPAREL

  Undergarments

  Most corsets ended below the bust, so a new garment had to be developed

  to support the breasts. The brassiere emerged to fill this purpose. As skirts

  became wider, fuller petticoats were needed to give them lift. A new combi-

  nation garment was created that merged together camisoles and drawers. It

  was called camiknickers and featured buttons at the crotch. Women still

  wore union suits, especially in the colder months. Union suits were mar-

  keted as health suits because they kept germs away from one’s body and

  perspiration off of one’s clothes.

  Sleepwear

  Nightgowns were cut with straight long waists. They were decorated with

  flat panels of lace, flat bows, and lace-edged sleeves and collars. Valenci-

  ennes lace was particularly popular. White and pink batiste, a lightweight

  cotton fabric, were popular for summer nightgowns. During the rest of


  the year, silks, cotton, cr^epe de Chine, georgette, and flannel were used.

  By 1916, flesh-colored gowns became popular.

  1914–1919, World War I

  195

  During the war, heavy duties had been placed on imported garments,

  and retailers tried to avoid having duties imposed on the goods they

  imported. Marshall Field and Company was no exception. They tried to

  skirt the duty on embroidered garments for a shipment of nightgowns,

  but a customs ruling found them dutiable at 50 percent (New York Times,

  December 4, 1915).

  HEADWEAR, HAIRSTYLES, AND COSMETICS

  Headwear

  By 1915, women’s headwear featured high, wide crowns with relatively

  narrow or upturned brims. The trimmings continued to be the focal point

  of the hat. Silk roses, feathers, wide ribbons, and artificial flowers were all

  piled along the crown of the hat. Face veils were fashionable during this

  period. Within a couple of years, brims widened and trimmings were usu-

  ally limited to a wide ribbon hatband with a large bow.

  Hairstyles

  During this period, hair was worn closer to the face as women moved

  away from the full pompadour style. By the end of the decade, women

  built height in the hair at the back of their head and arranged their hair

  forward over their ears on the sides. They continued to wear their hair up

  in a bun or chignon. Some women experimented with permanent waves.

  They used hairpins and decorative barrettes to secure their hairstyles.

  Mascara. Modern mascara has its origins

  preventing rust, polishing wood, and

  in another product: Vaseline. After learn-

  baking. Women, eager for an easy way

  ing about a waxy petroleum byproduct

  to darken their eyelashes, mixed Vase-

  that clogged oil-well heads, chemist

  line with coal dust or lamp black,

  Robert Augustus Chesebrough marketed

  which was acquired by holding a saucer

  a purified version of the substance under

  over a lit candle until it got sooty.

  the name Vaseline in 1872. By the end

  Thomas L. Williams learned of this

  of the nineteenth century, Vaseline was a

  trick and began selling the mixture

  common product in most American

  under the name ‘ Lash-Brow-Ine’’ in

  households.

  1913. It was immediately popular, and

  This versatile substance was used in

  he rechristened the product ‘ May-

  a variety of ways, including treating

  belline’’ after his sister Mabel. Maybel-

  cuts,

  softening

  hands

  and

  lips,

  line is now a subsidiary of L’Oreal.

  196

  WOMEN’S FASHIONS

  Cosmetics

  Women still wore pale face powder, but they began wearing peach-colored

  rouge instead of pink. During the war, cosmetics became more difficult to

  find. Women used the end of a burnt match to darken their eyebrows and

  beetroot juice to tint their lips.

  FOOTWEAR AND LEGWEAR

  Footwear

  During the last half of the 1910s, footwear became more visible with the

  rising hemlines. Although high button shoes kept feet warm in cold

  weather, low shoes became more widely worn. They were usually secured

  to the foot with a strap across the vamp that buttoned on the opposite

  side. By 1918, oxfords had become very popular, and low shoes without

  straps were widely available.

  Both blunt and pointed toes were common. Heels were made from a

  variety of materials, including wood, celluloid (an early plastic), and rub-

  ber. Evening shoes had elaborate lattice straps with decorative stitching or

  decorative buckles.

  Legwear

  As women had done in the previous decade, they wore dark cotton stock-

  ings during the day and light-colored silk ones for formal occasions.

  Rayon stocking were introduced as artificial silk.

  NECKWEAR AND OTHER ACCESSORIES

  Jewelry

  Women wore drop earrings and long necklaces made from chains and

  beads. Necklaces were often wrapped around the neck a few times. For

  formal occasions, women would wear tiaras. Hat pins and scarf pins were

  used to secure those accessories. Brooches were worn on blouses and jack-

  ets. Both pocket watches and bracelet-style wristwatches were worn.

  Handbags

  Handbags consisted of fabric or leather pouches attached to a metal or

  ivory frame, which had a clasp to keep the bag closed. Also attached to

  the frame was a short strap made from leather or fabric or a metal chain,

  which allowed the bag to be worn on the wrist. Most of the embellish-

  ment was on the metal frame. Some purses had beaded pouches that were

  finished with tassels.

  1920s, The Jazz Age

  197

  Around 1916, party boxes were sold as an evening alternative to hand-

  bags. Party bags were hard-sided rectangular metal cases that hung from

  short chains or a strap. Both sides of the case could open to reveal neatly

  organized compartments for a variety of essential items such as powder

  and puff, pins, coins, comb, mirror, lipstick, calling cards, nail file, and

  perfume.

  Other Accessories

  Women wore both flat and round fur muffs, along with animal-style boas,

  which included the animal’s head and tail. Plain fur scarves with fur tas-

  sels were fashionable later in the decade.

  Fabric sash-style belts were a common accessory. Elastic webbing usu-

  ally served as the base beneath the fabric, and the belt was secured with a

  buckle or hook fasteners. Bows, buttons, buckles, and silk flowers were

  used to adorn the front of the belt.

  Women carried umbrellas and wore fitted leather or fabric gloves.

  1920S,

  T H E J A Z Z AG E

  Aside from the transition from the WWI silhouette to the characteristic

  1920s silhouette, styles remained relatively consistent during the 1920s.

  The decade was dubbed the Jazz Age because of the popularity of the

  music style and the emphasis on parties and dancing during the decade.

  FORMALWEAR

  Silhouette

  The early 1920s silhouette focused on the romantic robe-de-style or

  ‘ picture dress.’’ Based on historical styles, features of this shape included a

  boned bodice, an ankle-length oval skirt supported by panniers, and a

  broad neckline (Laubner 1996). Resembling a romantic shepherdess, the

  gowns were frequently made in pastel colors and decorated with ribbons.

  Designers such as Lanvin and Lady Duff Gordon (Lucile) focused on this

  shape and created dresses using silk taffeta, organdy, velvet, or satin.

  Generally, however, evening gowns of the twenties were ankle-length,

  straight-cut sleeveless sheaths worn over colorful slips. They often had a

  dropped waist with geometric inserts, draping, and were low-cut in the

  front, the back, or both. Gowns were frequently cut on the bias and fea-

  tured asymmetrical piecing. This straightened and flattened silhouette was

  198

  WOMEN’S FASHIONS

  often referred to as the garc¸onne
or ‘‘flapper’ look and was associated with

  a boyish figure. Epitomized by Coco Chanel’s ‘ little black dress,’’ it was

  popular from 1926 through 1929 (Mendes to De La Haye 1999).

  Skirts

  During this time, hem lengths were the same for day and eveningwear

  but varied throughout the decade. In the early twenties, hems were two

  or three inches above the ankle, dropping to ankle length in 1923 and

  1924, and rising to the knee in 1925. Hems stayed high until 1929, when

  they suddenly dropped back down again.

  Although skirts were straight cut and tubular, interest was added

  through a variety of creative attachments. Panels, handkerchief squares,

  asymmetrical draping, and scallops all created the irregular hemlines that

  were popular throughout the decade.

  Bodices

  Complementing the romantic styles of the early 1920s, the waistline was

  placed slightly above the natural line but quickly moved down to the hips

  to complement the flapper look in 1922. Generally, unstructured blouson

  bodices were popular, and the waistline was trimmed with a wide sash

  and bow or with excess fabric draped and pinned on one side.

  Neckline

  For the romantic robe-de-style, the neckline was usually a shallow boat

  neck, often trimmed with lace. For the more iconic garc¸onne shape, eve-

  ningwear was typically very low cut in the front and/or the back in either

  a U or V shape. Designer Madeline Vionnet offered alternatives such as

  the halter or cowl neckline. Other alternatives included a square, untail-

  ored shape that cut across the top of the chest.

  Sleeves

  Picture dresses varied but frequently featured tight-fitting long sleeves of

  diaphanous material with a single ruffle at the cuff. Evening gowns with

  garc¸onne styling were sleeveless or had thin shoulder straps.

  Decorative Details

  For both the earlier and later silhouettes, high-quality materials and deco-

  rations epitomized formal eveningwear. Sparkling fabrics and decorations

  were particularly popular, especially beading and gold and silver lame.

  Metallic embroidery, diamante, and rhinestones were also favored trims.

  Luxurious fabrics such as brocaded silk, metallic lace, chiffon velvet, cr^epe

  1920s, The Jazz Age

  199

  de Chine, silk satin, and charmeuse were used throughout the 1920s for

  evening finery. Solid, quiet colors such as ivory and peach were preferred

  to show off the sparkling decorations and trims. When patterns were