Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al

by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)

  could crawl and was generally

  confined to the length of the

  skirt and style of the sleeve, col-

  lar, and trimming.

  Dresses for infants and

  babies varied during the twen-

  ties. One option was a long

  white dress of cotton lawn or

  nainsook, heavily decorated

  and worn with a matching

  bonnet and cape. This was

  available

  in

  sleeveless

  and

  long-sleeved forms. Typically,

  an extra petticoat was worn

  under the dress for added

  Boys playing sandlot baseball show some very casual clothes of the pe-

  warmth and modesty (when

  riod. [Library of Congress]

  the overdress was especially

  sheer). These petticoats were

  made of flannel cotton/wool/silk mixture or white muslin.

  Babies of crawling age were switched from dresses to rompers to

  allow greater movement for the legs. Another alternative was a three-

  piece, hand-knitted ensemble of a long-sleeved, double-breasted shirt,

  leggings, and a jersey. It was also recommended in newspapers and

  magazines that infants wear an abdominal band under their clothes to

  ‘ protect the abdomen and support the abdominal walls’’ (‘‘The Family

  Page’’ 1924) until the navel was dry. These were made of knitted silk or

  wool flannel.

  Infants’ clothing in the 1920s was typically decorated with ‘ bows, rib-

  bon rosettes, embroidery, pin tucks, shirring, and inserts of lace.’’ French

  embroidery, lace edging, elaborate hem stitching, smocking, and other

  fine needlework were popular as well. When not made of lawn or nain-

  sook, white dresses were made of old-fashioned dimity with checks and

  hairlines or plain muslin, handkerchief linen, batiste, and ninon.

  Children to Preteen

  Girls’ Ensembles. For younger girls, simplicity was preferred, and many

  clothes replicated versions of older children’s and adult styles. School

  310

  CHILDREN’S FASHIONS

  uniforms were also reflective of the modish silhouette, with bodices low

  and skirt hems short.

  Basic dresses for little girls included a bloomer-style dress of a matching

  smock and panty set, matching bib and little sister dresses, and a simple

  chemise-style dresses that could be slipped on over the head. One-piece

  smocked frocks were appropriate for all ages and included a yoke, girdle,

  and cuffs fitted through decorative smocking. Whereas simpler dresses were

  preferred for younger children, older girls’ frocks were more complex. A

  straight-cut jumper blouse was popular for young preteens in the 1920s.

  Low-waisted and bloused bodices were popular, although chemise

  dresses were typically cut loose and worn with simple string belts. Irregu-

  lar necklines were often shown for girls aged 8 to 10. These closed at one

  side and included a white linen collar. The Byron collar and raglan sleeves

  were also popular at this time.

  Skirt hems were generally quite short on smaller girls and grew longer

  with age. Bloomer dresses were short enough to show the matching pan-

  ties underneath. For slightly older girls, a popular element was to have

  skirt fullness gathered in the front. Box-pleated skirts and deep front

  pockets were used as well.

  An alternative to dresses for children’s daywear included two- and

  three-piece suits, with the blouse and skirt attached. Suitable for girls

  aged 2 to 6, these included a pleated skirt sewn to an undershirt-style top

  with a sweater worn over the top. Jumper styles were also popular. Sepa-

  rate sweaters were often made of jersey and featured ‘ modernistic’ bold,

  geometric designs in bright colors.

  Fine-weight woolens in check and plaids (especially Navajo and

  Yukon) were popular for children’s daywear. Overblouses for two-piece

  suits were made of crepe, linen, or muslin. Three-piece suits were made

  of contrasting colors. Jersey was worn by girls of all ages and was used

  heavily for toddlers. Velveteen was popular for winter. Handkerchief

  linen, silk, and crepe were especially popular in citron, lavender, and other

  pastel colors for summer wear. Taffeta was also popular in the summer.

  Plain or block patterns were popular for dresses. Stripes, plaids, dots,

  and conventional figures in bright colors were often used for summer,

  whereas rich, dark colors such as wood brown were modish in winter.

  Colors and materials were frequently combined for added effect, such as

  blue plaid with blue and tan striped jersey.

  Popular trimming included smocking, especially in conjunction with

  bright-colored threads. Embroidery, ribbons, and ribbon rosettes were

  popular, too. French embroidery, Italian drawn work, and other fine nee-

  dlework in simple patterns were preferred.

  1920s, The Jazz Age

  311

  Boys’ Ensembles. Boys basically wore miniature versions of adult clothing

  in the 1920s. Suits, rompers, and separates were most common for boys. A

  white, button-down shirt and a pair of short pants was the typical uniform.

  One-piece rompers consisted of a shirt and short pants combo with elastic

  cuffs on the pants. These were available plain or with sailor-style detailing.

  Older boys wore suits with short pants for sport. During this period, it was

  also common for boys to play ‘ dress up.’ Outfits that resembled cowboys,

  Indians, baseball uniforms, and aviator uniforms became common styles of

  playwear began appearing in the 1920s (Olian 2003).

  Teen to College

  Girls’ Ensembles. Teen and college-age casual wear differed very little from

  adult fashions. Although trends may have differed, the overall silhouette

  remained consistent. Marketing to teen and college-age girls was a rela-

  tively new phenomenon and was mostly focused on the college-aged girl

  preparing her wardrobe.

  Lowered waistlines and short hems were just as popular, if not more

  so, for the college and high school girl as for the full-grown woman.

  Dresses were typically cut loose and had a self-fabric belt at the hipline.

  Deep collars, a scarf, and a cape of matching material helped add interest

  to the otherwise simple tunic dress. Handkerchief linen, taffeta, and floral

  prints were popular in pastels for summer dresses, with heavier fabrics and

  darker colors for winter wear. Typically, less ostentatious trimming was

  used for these young ladies’ dresses than for children’s attire. Pleating was

  particularly popular on skirts, tunics, sleeves, collars, and edging in fabrics

  such as crepe, voile, and georgette. Smocking with bright threads was

  another conservative way in which young ladies’ dresses were trimmed.

  Generally, teen and college-age fashion, for both sexes, closely followed

  more general trends and silhouettes.

  Boys’ Ensembles. Young men typically wore sweaters or sweater vests

  over their soft-collared button-down shirts, because jackets were no longer

  required for casual occasion. V-neck patterned pullover sweaters were

  popular as well as cardigans. Norfolk jackets were worn by
college stu-

  dents. This sports jacket had inset panels and a belt. Knickers were com-

  monly worn by college students.

  OUTERWEAR

  Children to Preteen

  Coats. Babies and infants typically wore a ‘ long-coat,’’ a long, sleeved

  gown with a shoulder cape usually trimmed with embroidery or lace.

  312

  CHILDREN’S FASHIONS

  Six-month-olds to 2-year-olds wore a shorter, ‘ walking’’ version. Alterna-

  tives included high-collared baby capes and sailor-style pea coats.

  Girls’ Coats. Young girls also wore fur coats with high wrap-around

  collars. Girls’ cloth coats were made of plain or plaid wool and included

  fur collar and cuffs. A-line cut overcoats with a side button and tie closure

  and a short, knee-length hem were typical.

  For preteen and young girls, typical design elements for coats and

  capes included large collars, dropped and belted waists, patch pockets,

  large buttons, and sometimes an inverted pleat at the back. Hems usually

  fell at or above the dress hem. Capes were knee length and made of wool,

  although some were knit and lined with fleece. Decorations often focused

  on art deco themes.

  Boys’ Coats. Boys’ coats were based on men’s styles and included styles

  such as sailor or pilot coats or swagger coats. Double-breasted coats of

  mock raccoon or wool with fur collars were typical. Pocket varieties

  included patch, side flap, or envelop pockets at the chest. Both belted and

  unbelted styles were available.

  Teen to College

  Girls’ Coats. Jackets were cut on adult lines and again included fur trim at

  the collar and cuffs. Both tubular and flared coats were popular, worn

  belted or loose. Cloth coats were made of wool or velveteen and included

  patch pockets. Fur coats were also popular among college-age girls.

  Boys’ Coats. College-age men in the 1920s are well known to have

  worn raccoon coats, especially to sports events. They usually included

  wide lapels and were lined in plaids or tweeds.

  SWIMWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR

  Infant to Preteen

  Swimwear. One-piece, knitted tank-style suits with shorts were popular

  for both young boys and girls. Both buttoned up the center front,

  although girls usually had more upper-body coverage than boys. Suits

  were popular in a variety of colors, but wide horizontal stripes were a par-

  ticular favorite.

  Female Ensembles. Golf wear for young girls strongly resembled their

  casual wear. Typically, it included a pair of roomy trousers or pleated skirt,

  paired with a long- or short-sleeved button-down blouse. Young ladies’

  tennis attire was similar to that of adults and consisted of a full and long-

  ish pleated skirt and middy shirt ensemble in white or with a darker skirt

  and a white shirt.

  1920s, The Jazz Age

  313

  A middy shirt, a long-waisted, sailor-style shirt with a neck sash,

  paired with a knee-length pleated skirt was a general sportswear ensemble

  for young girls. Alternatives included tank-style dresses with pleated skirts

  or a knickers and tailored shirt combination. Materials frequently used

  included broadcloth, wool flannel, and other washable fabrics.

  For winter sports such as ice skating and winter hiking, preteen girls

  wore hip-length cardigans or pull-over V-neck sweaters in plain or argyle

  designs. These were available belted or loose with or without pockets.

  Collar varieties included shawl, pointed, and V neck. Young ladies usually

  wore these with wool pleated or straight knee-length skirts or knickers

  with knee-socks in a complementary pattern.

  Boys’ Ensembles. Boys’ golf wear had less variety than girls’ wear did.

  Young boys wore a tailored, button-down white cotton shirt with knee-

  length tweed knickers and a belt. The same ensembles were worn by young

  caddies, with the addition of a matching or complementary tailored jacket.

  General playwear for young boys included ‘ dress up’’ outfits, including

  cowboy and Indian outfits, aviator suits, and baseball uniforms in bright

  colors and ‘ authentic’ decoration. Plain playclothes included one-piece

  coveralls (complete with a drop seat) of heavy duty fabrics such as denim.

  They featured front patch pockets, button-up and zipper closures, and a

  variety of collar styles. Summer playclothes offered short-sleeve and short

  varieties, with button-up closures and belts.

  Preteen boys’ wear for outdoor sports such as ice hockey and cycling

  included V-neck and button-down argyle sweaters worn with knee-

  breeches or trousers.

  Teen to College

  Girls’ Ensembles. One-piece, knitted, and belted swimsuits with form-fit-

  ting short overskirts were popular among teen and college-age women.

  Less-functional swimwear of the early 1920s included frills and multiple

  layers for modesty. Necklines varied and were round, V neck, or cross

  over. Suits offered little to no chest support. Beach shoes were a necessity

  and resembled today’s lace-up kick-boxing boots. An early popular trend

  was to sunburn the name of a popular film star onto a leg or arm.

  Teen and college-age golfers wore long-waisted and belted knitted

  shirts and knickers bloused at the knee in somber colors. Tennis attire

  consisted of a roomy and longish pleated skirt and shirt ensemble in

  white. Alternatively, but in the same silhouette, sleeveless white boat-

  necked dresses with dropped waists and long skirts were popular.

  Boys’ Ensembles. One-piece, knitted and belted swimsuits with a tank

  top upper and form-fitting shorts were popular for both men and boys.

  314

  CHILDREN’S FASHIONS

  Teen and college-age men generally wore adult styles while golfing. This

  included argyle sweaters, plus fours, and argyle socks.

  For tennis, full-length white tailored trousers were worn with button-

  down white collared shirts by young men. In cooler weather, they wore a

  thin-knit, relatively plain white sweater as well.

  HEADWEAR, HAIRSTYLES, AND COSMETICS

  Infant to Preteen

  Headwear. Babies and infants wore bonnets or hats for protection from

  the elements. Generally, they matched the garment being worn and were

  made of cotton or silk with fine lace or white-work trim. Older infants

  also wore velvet bonnets with silk embroidery for more dressy occasions.

  Older girls wore headbands with ribbons and flowers, usually to match a

  particular dress. The fashion for hand-knitted accessories, including caps

  and hats for both boys and girls, had extended from the wartime trend of

  hand-knitted gifts for the troops.

  Teen to College

  Hairstyles. Teen and college-age girls of the 1920s wore their hair in much

  the same way adult women did. Bobbed hair, influenced by celebrities such

  as Irene Castle, was considered highly controversial among parents and

  teachers. Eventually, just getting a new haircut became the fashion. The lat-

  ter 1920s saw adolescent girls growing their hair long. The new permanent

  waves garnered attention, as did hair dyes. Thanks in part to Hollywood

  starlets, platinum blond was a
popular color (Schrum 2004).

  Cosmetics. Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, young women imitated

  the trends they saw at the movies, in magazines, and in advertising. Cos-

  metics advertising was not yet geared specifically to teens and college-age

  women, but they were more prone to use new products than their adult

  counterparts (Schrum 2004). Cream and face powder were novelty items

  in the early 1920s and were popular among teens in the form of compacts.

  In the late 1920s, lipstick and an eyebrow pencil became the focus for

  young women. Stars such as Clara Bow and Mae Murray had an impact

  on makeup trends with high school girls. First introduced in the early

  1920s, nail polish was considered vulgar through the 1930s. It was popu-

  lar among teens and college-age women.

  FOOTWEAR AND LEGWEAR

  Infant to Toddlers

  Footwear. There was little difference between footwear for boys and girls

  while in infancy. Newborns and infants wore bootees, often hand knitted

  1920s, The Jazz Age

  315

  or crocheted. These were usually white, with pastel colors used for accents

  and trim. Additionally, fine cotton or wool socks were worn in the winter,

  some that came with garters.

  Baby shoes were made of a variety of materials, including felted wool

  and soft kid leather. They were usually made in some variation of a T-bar

  shoe and were typically decorated with floral applique and/or embroidery.

  Moccasins were also popular and were often lined in a light-colored silk.

  Children to Preteen

  As children grew older, greater differentiation between styles for boys and

  girls became apparent. Into the 1920s, both genders frequently wore

  high-button boots with black woolen socks.

  However, as styles progressed, these boots began to be seen as a winter

  shoe for young girls. Round-toed patent leather and plain leather shoes

  with a single strap across the ankle or arch were popular at parties and

  other dressy occasions. These were sometimes decorated with a simple

  bow at the toe. The latter 1920s saw the increased use of long spats or

  leggings worn under dresses and over shoes for warmth.

  Boys’ shoes mimicked styles and shapes of their adult counterparts.

  Everyday shoes were white, black, red, or brown lace-up shoes of canvas

  and vulcanized rubber. They were most typically made in oxford style,

  either as a boot or shoe.

  Teen to College