by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)
their Peter Pan collars were trimmed with lace or embroidery.
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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS
Preteen and children’s coats became shorter and more fitted, especially
when worn with matching zippered leggings by younger children. Pea
coat styles with fur trim continued to be popular for both boys and girls.
Aviator-style leather or faux leather coats with shearling lining were avail-
able in a variety of styles as well. Both round and pointed collars were
available, as were double- or single-breasted coats of wool or wool chin-
chilla cloth.
Girls’ Coats. Toward the latter 1930s, shoulders became broader, and
coats flared from a nipped-in waist. Preteen coats also began to include cape-
lets, were belted at the natural waist, and had longer, knee-length hemlines.
Boys’ Coats. Coats for older boys included trench and ‘‘G-Man’ coat
styles. These styles continued into the teen and college markets.
SWIMWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR
Infant to Preteen
Swimwear. Both beach attire and snow clothing were similar for very
young boys and girls. Toddlers through preteens wore swimsuits or sun-
suits with a bib top and short pants. Available in seersucker, crepe, or
broadcloth, these suits could be worn with or without an undershirt.
Designers also began experimenting with fast-drying, form-fitting materi-
als such as Lastex and rayon. Older girls began to wear slacks or pajamas
over their suits for lounging at the beach.
Wool snow suits for toddlers and young children included a tight-
fitting, belted, button-down coat and a pair of trousers with rib-knit cuffs.
One-piece belted varieties were available for younger children. Darker
colors were popular for boys, lighter for girls.
Girls’ Ensembles. Tennis suits consisted of mid-calf-length shorts and
a sleeveless V-neck top of cotton linen. Gym suits for children through
college-age girls were usually a one-piece cotton ensemble consisting of a
sleeveless, V-neck top and loose bloomers with elastic at the knee and a
drop seat. It was also available with a pleated skirt. Separates including
the middy or sailor-style blouse and cotton knickers were also common.
Horseback riding gear typically included wide-hipped riding breeches
and jodhpurs with leather reinforcements and side button closures. Cotton
shirts and riding vests were also typical for young girls through high
school age.
Boys’ Ensembles. For golf, young boys wore tailored, button-down
white cotton shirts (short or long sleeved) with mid-calf-length tweed
trousers, with elastic at the hem. Boys’ tennis wear was remarkably similar
to girls’ and included shorts and a tailored shirt, in white sport-weight
1930s, The Great Depression
323
cotton. Boys’ snow clothing included printed double-breasted jackets with
coordinating bib overall pants in a solid color. Pant hems and jacket cuffs
were rib-knit to keep out the snow.
Boys remained interested in ‘ dress up’’ clothes, focusing on baseball,
aviator, cowboy, and Indian costumes. Sturdy playwear suits resembled
mechanics overalls, with heavy stitching.
Teen to College
Girls’ Ensembles. Golf wear for teenage and college-age women included a
hip-length round or V-neck sweater worn over a below-knee-length,
A-line skirt. A belt was often worn over the sweater at the natural waist.
Tennis clothing consisted of sleeveless button-up blouses, worn with
knee-length skirts, or above-the-knee-length shorts. Cardigan sweaters
were worn for added warmth.
Ski clothing included both all-in-one ski suits and separate jacket and
trousers combinations. They were available in solid colors and a variety of
prints and styles. Following the silhouette of the late 1930s, jackets had
square-ish shoulders and nipped-in waists. Trousers had rib knit at the lower
hem and bagged above thick socks. Designers such as Schiaparelli and Lelong
began creating sportswear in response to a general enthusiasm for sports.
Boys’ Ensembles. In the early 1930s, young men continued to wear
ankle-length pants that bagged at mid-calf with a tailored shirt or sweater.
Toward the end of the 1930s, full trousers replaced plus fours.
Young men’s tennis attire continued to follow adult designs. White
cotton trousers with pleated fronts and a light-colored collared polo shirt
were typically seen. Cable-knit V-neck sweaters with a single stripe
accenting the collar line were also worn.
HEADWEAR, HAIRSTYLES, AND COSMETICS
Infant to Preteen
Headwear. Baby bonnets had either projected brims or shirred ruffles to
protect the baby’s face. Unisex hats were made from a variety of materials,
including silk and rayon. They were frequently decorated with embroi-
dery, ribbon flowers, or picot edging. Winter hats were often made from
flannel wool.
Popular hats for young girls included sailor hats, straw hats, and bon-
nets for the spring and summer. Often, these were trimmed with flowers
or wide ribbons. Cloches were popular for warm and cold weather. Formal
occasions required fine materials such as angora, feathers, wool, and felt.
These were used for berets and Tyrolean hats.
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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS
Popular hats for boys included knit caps, jockey caps, and aviator-style
helmets of leather or wool that were worn outdoors in the winter. Differ-
ent headwear was available for different sports, such as hockey caps, golf
caps, and ski caps, complete with ear flaps.
Hairstyles. Shirley Temple had a strong effect on girls’ hairstyles, mak-
ing the bob with corkscrew curls or braids popular. Coordinating ribbons
were tied with a bow around the head, with the bow at the top.
Teen to College
Headwear. Teen hat and hair fashions were almost indistinguishable from
adult styles. Hat brims were dropped low over one eye.
Hairstyles. Popular trends included permanent waves and dyed plati-
num blond hair.
Cosmetics. In both the 1920s and 1930s, high schools typically forbade
the use of cosmetics at school but increasingly included beauty education
in their curriculum. The 1930s saw an increase in the use of makeup by
teen and adult women, with eye shadow, eyeliner, and nail polish becom-
ing popular and acceptable. Powder, lipstick, and eyebrow pencil contin-
ued to be used but were less novel. Makeup styles of teenage girls
continued to mimic those of adult women.
FOOTWEAR AND LEGWEAR
Infant to Toddlers
Newborns and infants wore hand-knitted or crocheted bootees, made of
cotton or rayon with tasseled drawstrings. Moccasins continued to be
popular. They were often made of silk crepe and trimmed with pastel em-
broidery. Both baby and children’s slippers were often trimmed with rabbit
fur during this time.
Children to Preteen
Young girls of the 1930s wore shoes based on adult designs but with
broad toes and low heels. Canvas shoes were worn for sports, ballet, or
gym and were made of leather and canvas. Dressier oc
casions called for
patent and plain leather Mary Janes or oxfords, with elongated and
rounded toes, buckles on the ankle strap, and rubber soles. Sandal styles
were based on Roman high tops, with as many as four straps.
These shoes were typically worn with ankle socks, which were also
becoming popular in adult fashion. In the winter, buttonless wool leggings
were worn by children through age 6.
Boys’ shoes continued to focus on styles worn by adult men. These
included saddle shoes and leather oxfords, now available in two-tone and
1930s, The Great Depression
325
moccasin styles. High-top boots continued to be worn in colder weather,
and T-strap sandals were worn in the summer.
Teen to College
Saddle shoes and T-strap sandals with heels were marketed directly to
teens. Loafers were another casual alternative, and high-heeled styles were
borrowed from adult fashions. Lace-up two-toned saddle shoes with
leather uppers and rubber soles worn with ankle socks were one of the
most popular looks worn by teenage girls.
Socks were an equally important part of the trend. In the early 1930s,
ankle socks were worn as a part of high school girls’ athletic uniforms. As
the decade progressed, girls experimented with sock decorations. Worn in
bold or muted shades, they were sometimes worn with gadgets, charms,
and boys’ garters. The shoes themselves were also altered and were painted
with various pictures, songs, or friends’ names (Schrum 2004).
Teen and college-age boys continued to wear styles dictated by adult
men. Although boys also wore saddle shoes, they also continued to wear
boots in the winter and T-strap sandals in the summer.
ACCESSORIES
Jewelry
Jewelry for young ladies also became more prominent during this period.
These included pearl necklaces, gold lockets, bangle bracelets, and charm
bracelets featuring nursery rhyme characters. Children’s rings often fea-
tured birthstones or engraved initials. Children’s watches and other jew-
elry also featured Mickey Mouse and Orphan Annie faces.
Boys’ watches featured Buck Rogers, Dick Tracy, and Boy Scout faces.
Neck-wear for young boys included ties featuring more masculine cartoon
characters such as Popeye, Dick Tracy, and Mickey Mouse.
In the 1930s, teens began to express their creativity through jewelry. They
made accessories out of everyday materials such as macaroni, Life Savers
Candy, sugar cubes, and nail polish brushes. This kind of jewelry remained
popular into the late 1930s. College-age women focused their attention on
more adult styles in fine materials. Teen and college-aged men began to show
interest in the adult style of wearing a watch on a chain, with a watch fob.
Gloves and Handbags
Little girls did carry miniature versions of purses worn by their mothers.
Popular decorations for children’s handbags included appliqued Scottie
dogs. Special-occasion bags often featured embroidered white seed beads.
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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS
Other Accessories
Layettes came in thirty-four- and forty-eight-piece sets and included all
the accoutrements a newborn needed, including cotton flannel vests, slips,
diapers, bibs, and even crib sheets. Bibs were traditionally decorated with
lace and embroidery, but, beginning in the 1930s, they began to be deco-
rated with the newly introduced Disney cartoon characters. Mickey
Mouse and Donald Duck were first used on bibs and feeders and eventu-
ally appeared on other clothing designed for children.
1940S,
W O R L D WA R I I
FORMALWEAR
Infant to Toddlers
Mothers and grandmothers would sew and crochet long, white christen-
ing gowns. White booties, bonnets, gowns, and blankets with delicate
embroidery, lace, and crochet swaddled the infant who was being shown
off to the church, family, and friends on its special day. White satin rib-
bon was used to tie the booties and bonnets, as well as provide tie strings
for over jackets. Both boys and girls still wore christening gowns for this
occasion.
Toddlers were often used in weddings as ring bearers and flower girls.
Little girls usually wore simple cotton, rayon, and satin dresses that had
very little adornment and flowered headbands. Layered petticoats added
some extra support for the full skirt. In addition, they wore white or black
patent leather shoes and white socks with crocheted tops. Little boys
dressed in suits with short pants with knee socks and leather tie shoes.
Children to Preteen
There were not many occasions for children to dress up in formal attire
during the forties. Emerging from the Depression followed by wartime
shortages and frugal use of resources, few children had a need to dress up.
Religious ceremonies were the exception. First communion for Catholic
children was a major event in grade school, and Jewish children celebrated
bar or bat mitzvah in middle school. Although the religious ceremonies
were quite special to the families, most clothing was handmade and
handed down from one child to another.
Girls’ Ensembles. Party dresses for girls would be made from left-over
fabric. Typically, girls wore dresses with a Peter Pan collar, short puffed
sleeves, fitted waist with tie in back, and a full skirt that extended just
1940s, World War II
327
above the knee. When restrictions were lifted after the war, dresses fell
below the knee and began carrying more ruffles and trims. Washable cot-
ton and rayon taffeta dresses with wide sweeping skirts and ruffled yokes
were popular.
Boys’ Ensembles. Some boys’ suits had jackets and pants that matched,
while others had twill, checked, or plaid jackets paired with dark shorts or
pants. Generally, suits were made from wool, rayon, corduroy, flannel, or
cotton. Jackets were available in both double-breasted and single-breasted
suit styles, and they usually sported a belt across the back, wide lapels,
and a handkerchief pocket.
Early in the decade, boys wore suits with knickers, but, after the war,
shorts and long pants were popular. Knickers came just below the knee
and were worn with matching socks and leather lace-up shoes. Tradition-
ally, a major step in a boy’s life was to move from knickers to long pants.
This transition was often delayed during the war because fabric was con-
served and money was tight. Long pants had wide legs with creases and
cuffs. By the end of the decade, knickers were replaced with shorts, and
young boys continued to look forward to getting their first ‘ longie suit’
with ankle-length pants.
Teen to College
Girls’ Ensembles. Teenage and college women aspired to look like the
glamorous movie stars of the 1940s. Formal dresses worn to weddings,
formal dances, and graduation had sweetheart necklines, slim waists, and
puffy short sleeves. During the war, however, there was not much occa-
sion for formalwear. Even debutante balls were on hiatus. Young men
were enlisted a
nd shipped overseas, so girls saved their nicest dresses for
furlough dates and the few boys who were able to stay behind and attend
college. When the boys were home again and regular dating resumed later
in the forties, styles for juniors were quite sophisticated. Mid-calf was the
new length for special-occasion dresses. Not as extreme as the New Look
for adults, young ladies’ dresses had a fitted waist with full or straight
skirt. Teenagers’ fashions assumed they did not have the ample curves of
women, so they did not create or emphasize an hourglass figure. The lines
were softer and more demure with capped sleeves and sweetheart or round
necklines.
Boys’ Ensembles. Boys’ suit styles early in the forties copied the glam-
our of Hollywood. Typically suits had either single- or double-breasted
jackets. The popular sports coat look featured a jacket, often made from a
textured material such as herringbone or tweed, and solid, dark-colored
pants. Jackets were longer and had wide lapels and flaps over the pockets.
Before the war, trousers had a high-rise waist, wide legs, and cuffs.
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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS
During the war, the pocket flaps were removed, lapels were narrowed, the
jacket length became shorter, trousers lost their pleats and cuffs, and pant
legs became narrower and straighter.
CASUAL WEAR
Infant to Toddlers
Babies were dressed in a matching jacket, bonnet or cap, and blanket
when going out. Sleep bags for infants had openings for arms and head,
and they tied at the bottom. One-piece sleeper sets had buttons on the
inseams to ease changing. Mothers favored baby clothes that were easy to
wash, quick to dry, required little or no ironing, and would retain white-
ness. Knitted booties with ribbons around the ankle to keep the booties in
place were made to match little bonnets or caps and jackets.
Toddlers, being quite active, often wore simple, functional garments,
such as one-piece rompers with snaps or buttons inside the legs for easy
changing. Both boys and girls wore rompers, but girls were dressed in
pink and yellow, whereas boys were dressed in blue and green. Little girls
had bunnies and other cute appliques, including the Walt Disney charac-
ters Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck, whereas little boys had cowboy
adornments such as horses and lassos. Pullover shirts were made with