by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)
snaps or buttons across one shoulder that made it easier to dress the child.
Children to Preteen
Girls’ Ensembles. During the 1940s, young girls wore dresses, jumpers,
separates, and playsuits for casual wear. During the summer, floral print
poplin dresses were commonly worn. They usually had short, puffed
sleeves and a Peter Pan collar. Elastic gathers or a sash nipped in the
waist, from which a full skirt extended to the knee or slightly longer.
Jumpers and separates were worn to school. Jumpers often had square
or sweetheart necklines and had full, knee-length skirts. Although many
girls wore solid-colored jumpers, patterns such as plaids and stripes were
popular. Jumpers were typically worn with short- or long-sleeved blouses
that had Peter Pan collars. Popular separates included the following: full
skirts that came with or without suspenders; short, fitted jackets with
puffed long sleeves; pullover sweaters; cardigan sweaters; and blouses with
short puffed sleeves and embroidery or smocking.
Playsuits consisted of long pants with an attached bodice. They
included the fashionable seen in dresses and blouses. A sash or waistband
cinched the waist, the sleeves were short and puffed, and playsuits usually
had lace-trimmed Peter Pan collars. Sometimes they were adorned with
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embroidery or appliques. Young girls also wore overalls or denim pants
with a short-sleeve, collared blouse or knit shirt.
Boys’ Ensembles. Young boys wore suits and a variety of playclothes.
Suits consisted of a jacket and either shorts or long pants. They were
worn with a collared shirt.
Playsuits were combined shirts and long pants. They usually had a
notched collar. Sometimes the shirt could be a contrasting color or it
would be embellished with embroidery or an applique.
Sweatshirts, pullover sweaters, and knit shirts were worn with denim
or corduroy pants. Button-down shirts had open-neck collars and either
short or long sleeves. They came in solids, checks, plaids, and novelty
prints such as western themes. Roy Rogers was the hero of most Ameri-
can boys, and western-style shirts were popular.
As the world entered the war and patriotism was on everyone’s mind,
copies of military uniforms were marketed for young children: naval, ma-
rine, and army officer suits for little boys, and Women’s Army Auxiliary
Corps and Women Accepted for Volunteer Emergency Service uniforms
for little girls. Sailor suits were especially popular with wide bell-bottom
slacks and pullover shirt with sailor collar. Military appearance remained
popular for children throughout the war years.
Teen to College
Girls’ Ensembles. Teenage and college girls wore a variety of dresses. Two-
piece full-skirted dresses were popular in cotton with bright plaids, stripes,
and gingham for summer. In the winter, they wore similar styles in wool
and corduroy. Dresses were fitted at the waist and had full, gored, knee-
length skirts. Long, straight sleeves, bishop sleeves, and short puffed
sleeves were popular. Typically, dresses had Peter Pan or pointed collars.
Often the waistline was accented with a sash or belt.
Sweater sets were especially popular among college girls to extend
their wardrobe. The same sweater could be worn with a plaid skirt, a pair
of tailored pants, or denim pants. Many girls mimicked the ‘ sweater girl’
look by wearing longer, tight-fitting sweaters made from soft wool or
spun cotton.
Girls’ trousers were fashioned after men’s wear with belted waist, wide
legs, and pleated fronts. Combined fabrics of wool, cotton, rayon, and
nylon, these comfortable and stylish slacks could be worn with a man-
tailored button-front blouse or sweater.
Durable denim pants, known as dungarees, were often purchased a
little long to accommodate growing children. The cuffs would be turned
up so as not to drag on the ground. Rolled-up denim pants became a
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popular fashion for teenage girls. Dungarees were rolled up to just below
the knee and worn with folded-over cotton ‘ bobby socks’’ and loafers or
saddle shoes.
Blue jeans designed for the female figure were advertised so girls no
longer had to wear boys’ pants that did not fit well. With two side pock-
ets, a tapered waist, and room for hips, these pants still had a side closure
because front zippers were still considered inappropriate for women.
Young women wore a variety of separates. Collared blouses were com-
mon in short- and long-sleeve styles. Short- and long-sleeved knit shirts
gained popularity. Casual, boxy, hip-length jackets were combined with
pants. Knee-length pleated skirts were worn with collared blouses. They
also wore large, loose sweaters called ‘ sloppy joes.’’
Boys’ Ensembles. Typically, teenage and college men wore trousers or
dungarees, which were also known as jeans. Trousers had pleats, creases,
and cuffs, whereas jeans usually had tall cuffs that exposed the lighter, back
side of the fabric. Both trousers and jeans were worn with a belt. Pants were
paired with open-collared, button-down shirts or knit shirts in either short-
or long-sleeve styles. In cooler weather, young men wore pullover sweat-
shirts or sweaters, which usually had a V or round neck and long sleeves.
They also wore sweater vests. Popular pullover sweater styles included cable
knits and jacquard knit-in designs: V neck or round neck, vest or long
sleeves, pullovers, and solids, cables, or designs. Letter or varsity sweaters
were popular among athletes. These cardigans were long, extending over
the hips, and had long sleeves, a V neck, pockets over the hips, and a button
closure. Typically, young men had the letter of their school’s name appliqued
onto the front of the sweater between the hip and chest.
OUTERWEAR
Infants and Toddlers
Infants were often bundled in hand-knitted or crocheted jacket, cap, and
bootees ensemble. A colored cotton blanket and quilted comforters were
placed over the baby on chilly days. Typically, overcoats were simple gray
or brown wool, gabardine, or corduroy with few embellishments. Coats
came in single- and double-breasted styles, and they had fold-down col-
lars and patch pockets. Wool snow pants or snowsuits, which combined
the coat and pants, were worn also.
Children to Preteen
Girls’ Coats. Girls’ coats were usually made from rayon, wool, or flannel.
Double- and single-breasted styles were popular, and sleeves usually
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puffed at the shoulder. Knee-length coats sometimes were fitted at the
waist and had a flared skirt. This silhouette was achieved with princess
seams. Peter Pan, notched, and convertible collars were common. Fur was
frequently used as trim, and fur collars were popular. Coats had patch or
slit pockets, and some coats were belted. Sometimes capes were worn over
dresses. They had convertible collars and often had embroidered designs.
Girls wore t
rouser style or bib-top snow pants that were loose fitting and
gathered into a knit cuff at the ankle.
Boys’ Coats. Rain gear for boys consisted of knee-length rain coats
with buttons down the front, raglan sleeves, slash pockets, and separate
hood and were made of a tightly woven cotton fabric impregnated with a
waterproof plastic substance (Olian 1992). Snowsuit jackets were short,
just below the waist, with slash pockets. They were made of wool or cot-
ton gabardine twill and sometimes had matching snow pants that were
roomy enough to accommodate the pants underneath.
Leather jackets were popular with older boys. Typically, they were hip
length, had a zip closure, a convertible collar, and slit pockets. Aviator-
style leather jackets had a lambskin collar, a horizontal seam across the
upper chest, and adjustable side and cuff straps.
Teen to College
Girls’ Coats. Women’s winter coats were made in camel’s hair, solid-colored
wool, tweeds, and herringbone. Reefer and polo styles were the most popu-
lar. The reefer style was either single or double breasted and had princess
seams to shape the waist and flare the skirt. The coat extended to the upper
calf and had a notched collar with wide lapels and flap pockets. The polo
coat had a straight silhouette, was double breasted, and extended to the knee.
Usually, it had a notched collar and patch pockets with flaps. Wool pea jack-
ets were also popular. They were double breasted, boxy, and were cut to just
below the hip. They had a wide convertible collar and nautical buttons.
Short play jackets or snow jackets were designed to be worn with snow
pants. They zipped or buttoned up the front and had either straight sleeves
or cuffed sleeves. The length of the jackets ranged from the waist to the
hip. Convertible collars were common on this type of jacket, but sometimes
they had hoods. Snow pants were cut full and gathered into knit cuffs at
the ankle. Often the cuffs had zippers to make it easier to get in and out of
the pants. Sometimes snow pants were reinforced at the knee.
Teenage girls adopted their brothers’ and boyfriends’ large, buffalo
plaid wool shirts as lightweight outerwear. These heavyweight shirts had
a mannish fit and patch pockets at the breast. This trend was so popular
that stores began to market the style to young women.
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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS
Rain capes were functional garments for young women. They
extended just below the knee, had slash pockets, and came with a hood,
which was finished with shirred elastic to frame the face to keep wind
and rain out.
Boys’ Coats. Flight or bomber jackets were popularized during the war.
Both styles had zippered fronts and long full sleeves that gathered into a
knit cuff. They also had a knit waistband. Most versions of the jacket had
a variety of flap and slit pockets at the waist and breast. Hip-length
leather jackets were popular among teenage boys. These zip-front gar-
ments had convertible collars and slit pockets at the hips.
The double-breasted trench coat remained popular among teenage and
college men, but it lost a few details during the war. To conserve materi-
als, the overlaid yoke, shoulder epaulets, and metal belt clasp were
removed. Rain coats and overcoats continued to follow a wide-shouldered
military style for several years. Another popular outer garment was the
gabardine raincoat. This three-quarter-length coat was cut straight and
had a notched collar and patch pockets with flaps.
SWIMWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR
Infant to Preteen
Girls’ Ensembles. Young girls usually wore one-piece swimsuits with low-
cut legs. Some girls wore swim dresses that had flared skirts. Sweetheart
necklines were popular, and sometimes the shoulder straps were embel-
lished with trims or braiding. Two-piece suits were worn also. They often
had halter-style bra tops and trunks that extended over the navel to the
natural waistline. Suits were made from rayon, cotton, wool, or a mix of
these fibers. Elastic around the legs helped to keep the suit in place.
Boys’ Ensembles. Boys’ swim trunks came in two different styles: tradi-
tional stretch knit and boxer shorts. The knit style was made of wool or a
wool and rayon blend. They fit snuggly and extended from just above the
natural waist to the hip. Sometimes they were worn with a web belt or draw-
string at the waist. The boxer short style was fuller and resembled shorts.
They had a drawstring waist and were made from satin, cotton, or rayon.
Sometimes boxer-style trunks were sold with matching cover-up shirts.
Teen to College
Girls’ Ensembles. Swimsuits came in three common styles: two piece, one-
piece swim dress, and one piece with half-skirt. Two-piece suits often had
halter-style bra tops that were shaped by darts. The bottoms consisted
of trunks or a skirt that extended slightly above the natural waistline.
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One-piece swim dresses had princess seams and extended to a short,
flared skirt that ended at just below the hip. The one piece with half-skirt
had a V neckline, shoulder straps, and fit close from the bodice to the
hem, which ended at the hip. Colorful prints made from rayon taffeta or
rayon jersey were popular for swimsuits.
Golf and tennis were popular sports for young women. Although
appropriate tennis attire remained all white, golf sweaters and shirts intro-
duced color. For both sports, teenage and college women wore similar gar-
ments. Knit, short-sleeved shirts and collared, woven shirts were typically
worn along with tailored, casual pants or full, skirt-like shorts. Long, boxy
pullover and cardigan sweaters were designed to be thin and comfortable
after players left the court.
Boys’ Ensembles. Teenage and college boys wore two styles of swim-
suits: wool knit trunks or boxer short trunks. Both styles had a drawstring
waist and were drawn up high on the natural waist. The knit style was
close fitting and extended to the hip. Sometimes this style had a belt. The
boxer short style resembled shorts and extended to the upper thigh. Both
styles usually came with a built-in supporter.
To play tennis, young men wore white trousers or shorts. Typically,
trousers had pleated fronts, creases, and cuffs. The shorts worn for sports
often had an elastic waistband. Short-sleeve knit shirts with or without
collars were worn, as well as sleeveless and long-sleeve pullover V-neck
sweaters.
HEADWEAR, HAIRSTYLES, AND COSMETICS
Infant to Preteen
Headwear. Young girls wore a variety of hats. Most had low crowns
and narrow brims. Berets and headscarves tied under the chin were popu-
lar as well.
Young boys wore the pork-pie hat and caps. Cold winter months
required more protection, so caps had flaps folded down over the ears and
snapped or buckled under the chin. Cowboy hats were worn for play.
Hairstyles. Most young girls had long hair during the 1940s. When it
was left loose, it was flipped up or under. It was styled away from the
or two braids. Bows were worn at the end of braids, on a ponytail, and at
the side of the head.
Young boys wore their hair short with a side part. It was styled away
from the face, and the front was left a little longer to enhance any wave
in the hair.
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Teen to College
Headwear. Bonnet styles and berets were popular among young women.
Most other hats had small crowns and narrow brims. They were embel-
lished with ribbon hat bands, feathers, and veils.
Young men wore caps, fedoras, and homburgs, which had tall crowns
with a crease and narrow brims.
Hairstyles. Teenage and college women wore their hair between chin
length and shoulder length. As the decade progressed, more women had
shorter hair. They styled their hair away from the sides and back from the
crown of the head. Side parts were very popular, and women used bobby
pins to gather and pin the hair back. Often they pinned a flower or bow
at the place where they pinned their hair back. In the back, women curled
their hair under.
Young men wore their hair short and slicked back with pomade.
Cosmetics. Young women wore face powder, lipstick, and rouge. Deep-
red lipstick was popular, but, by the end of the decade, new products
became available, and the emphasis began shifting from lips to eyes. With
the shortage of nylon during the war, young women wore leg makeup and
painted lines down the backs of their legs to give the illusion of seamed
nylon stockings. Leg makeup was available in the form of lotion, cream,
stick cake, and pancake.
FOOTWEAR AND LEGWEAR
Infant to Preteen
Infants wore knitted bootees. Once toddlers began to walk, their parents
would purchase a pair of white, soft leather, high-top baby shoes and cot-
ton ankle socks. With polio still a frightening possibility, children’s feet
were cared for with proper support from a very early age to keep the
arches and ankles healthy and strong. Little girls wore leather oxfords for
playing and Mary Janes for more formal occasions. Canvas high tops
became the play shoe of choice for little boys after the war. They were
inexpensive and could be washed. When restrictions were lifted after the
war, cowboy boots became a sought-after accessory for boys.