Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al

by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)

  snaps or buttons across one shoulder that made it easier to dress the child.

  Children to Preteen

  Girls’ Ensembles. During the 1940s, young girls wore dresses, jumpers,

  separates, and playsuits for casual wear. During the summer, floral print

  poplin dresses were commonly worn. They usually had short, puffed

  sleeves and a Peter Pan collar. Elastic gathers or a sash nipped in the

  waist, from which a full skirt extended to the knee or slightly longer.

  Jumpers and separates were worn to school. Jumpers often had square

  or sweetheart necklines and had full, knee-length skirts. Although many

  girls wore solid-colored jumpers, patterns such as plaids and stripes were

  popular. Jumpers were typically worn with short- or long-sleeved blouses

  that had Peter Pan collars. Popular separates included the following: full

  skirts that came with or without suspenders; short, fitted jackets with

  puffed long sleeves; pullover sweaters; cardigan sweaters; and blouses with

  short puffed sleeves and embroidery or smocking.

  Playsuits consisted of long pants with an attached bodice. They

  included the fashionable seen in dresses and blouses. A sash or waistband

  cinched the waist, the sleeves were short and puffed, and playsuits usually

  had lace-trimmed Peter Pan collars. Sometimes they were adorned with

  1940s, World War II

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  embroidery or appliques. Young girls also wore overalls or denim pants

  with a short-sleeve, collared blouse or knit shirt.

  Boys’ Ensembles. Young boys wore suits and a variety of playclothes.

  Suits consisted of a jacket and either shorts or long pants. They were

  worn with a collared shirt.

  Playsuits were combined shirts and long pants. They usually had a

  notched collar. Sometimes the shirt could be a contrasting color or it

  would be embellished with embroidery or an applique.

  Sweatshirts, pullover sweaters, and knit shirts were worn with denim

  or corduroy pants. Button-down shirts had open-neck collars and either

  short or long sleeves. They came in solids, checks, plaids, and novelty

  prints such as western themes. Roy Rogers was the hero of most Ameri-

  can boys, and western-style shirts were popular.

  As the world entered the war and patriotism was on everyone’s mind,

  copies of military uniforms were marketed for young children: naval, ma-

  rine, and army officer suits for little boys, and Women’s Army Auxiliary

  Corps and Women Accepted for Volunteer Emergency Service uniforms

  for little girls. Sailor suits were especially popular with wide bell-bottom

  slacks and pullover shirt with sailor collar. Military appearance remained

  popular for children throughout the war years.

  Teen to College

  Girls’ Ensembles. Teenage and college girls wore a variety of dresses. Two-

  piece full-skirted dresses were popular in cotton with bright plaids, stripes,

  and gingham for summer. In the winter, they wore similar styles in wool

  and corduroy. Dresses were fitted at the waist and had full, gored, knee-

  length skirts. Long, straight sleeves, bishop sleeves, and short puffed

  sleeves were popular. Typically, dresses had Peter Pan or pointed collars.

  Often the waistline was accented with a sash or belt.

  Sweater sets were especially popular among college girls to extend

  their wardrobe. The same sweater could be worn with a plaid skirt, a pair

  of tailored pants, or denim pants. Many girls mimicked the ‘ sweater girl’

  look by wearing longer, tight-fitting sweaters made from soft wool or

  spun cotton.

  Girls’ trousers were fashioned after men’s wear with belted waist, wide

  legs, and pleated fronts. Combined fabrics of wool, cotton, rayon, and

  nylon, these comfortable and stylish slacks could be worn with a man-

  tailored button-front blouse or sweater.

  Durable denim pants, known as dungarees, were often purchased a

  little long to accommodate growing children. The cuffs would be turned

  up so as not to drag on the ground. Rolled-up denim pants became a

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  CHILDREN’S FASHIONS

  popular fashion for teenage girls. Dungarees were rolled up to just below

  the knee and worn with folded-over cotton ‘ bobby socks’’ and loafers or

  saddle shoes.

  Blue jeans designed for the female figure were advertised so girls no

  longer had to wear boys’ pants that did not fit well. With two side pock-

  ets, a tapered waist, and room for hips, these pants still had a side closure

  because front zippers were still considered inappropriate for women.

  Young women wore a variety of separates. Collared blouses were com-

  mon in short- and long-sleeve styles. Short- and long-sleeved knit shirts

  gained popularity. Casual, boxy, hip-length jackets were combined with

  pants. Knee-length pleated skirts were worn with collared blouses. They

  also wore large, loose sweaters called ‘ sloppy joes.’’

  Boys’ Ensembles. Typically, teenage and college men wore trousers or

  dungarees, which were also known as jeans. Trousers had pleats, creases,

  and cuffs, whereas jeans usually had tall cuffs that exposed the lighter, back

  side of the fabric. Both trousers and jeans were worn with a belt. Pants were

  paired with open-collared, button-down shirts or knit shirts in either short-

  or long-sleeve styles. In cooler weather, young men wore pullover sweat-

  shirts or sweaters, which usually had a V or round neck and long sleeves.

  They also wore sweater vests. Popular pullover sweater styles included cable

  knits and jacquard knit-in designs: V neck or round neck, vest or long

  sleeves, pullovers, and solids, cables, or designs. Letter or varsity sweaters

  were popular among athletes. These cardigans were long, extending over

  the hips, and had long sleeves, a V neck, pockets over the hips, and a button

  closure. Typically, young men had the letter of their school’s name appliqued

  onto the front of the sweater between the hip and chest.

  OUTERWEAR

  Infants and Toddlers

  Infants were often bundled in hand-knitted or crocheted jacket, cap, and

  bootees ensemble. A colored cotton blanket and quilted comforters were

  placed over the baby on chilly days. Typically, overcoats were simple gray

  or brown wool, gabardine, or corduroy with few embellishments. Coats

  came in single- and double-breasted styles, and they had fold-down col-

  lars and patch pockets. Wool snow pants or snowsuits, which combined

  the coat and pants, were worn also.

  Children to Preteen

  Girls’ Coats. Girls’ coats were usually made from rayon, wool, or flannel.

  Double- and single-breasted styles were popular, and sleeves usually

  1940s, World War II

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  puffed at the shoulder. Knee-length coats sometimes were fitted at the

  waist and had a flared skirt. This silhouette was achieved with princess

  seams. Peter Pan, notched, and convertible collars were common. Fur was

  frequently used as trim, and fur collars were popular. Coats had patch or

  slit pockets, and some coats were belted. Sometimes capes were worn over

  dresses. They had convertible collars and often had embroidered designs.

  Girls wore t
rouser style or bib-top snow pants that were loose fitting and

  gathered into a knit cuff at the ankle.

  Boys’ Coats. Rain gear for boys consisted of knee-length rain coats

  with buttons down the front, raglan sleeves, slash pockets, and separate

  hood and were made of a tightly woven cotton fabric impregnated with a

  waterproof plastic substance (Olian 1992). Snowsuit jackets were short,

  just below the waist, with slash pockets. They were made of wool or cot-

  ton gabardine twill and sometimes had matching snow pants that were

  roomy enough to accommodate the pants underneath.

  Leather jackets were popular with older boys. Typically, they were hip

  length, had a zip closure, a convertible collar, and slit pockets. Aviator-

  style leather jackets had a lambskin collar, a horizontal seam across the

  upper chest, and adjustable side and cuff straps.

  Teen to College

  Girls’ Coats. Women’s winter coats were made in camel’s hair, solid-colored

  wool, tweeds, and herringbone. Reefer and polo styles were the most popu-

  lar. The reefer style was either single or double breasted and had princess

  seams to shape the waist and flare the skirt. The coat extended to the upper

  calf and had a notched collar with wide lapels and flap pockets. The polo

  coat had a straight silhouette, was double breasted, and extended to the knee.

  Usually, it had a notched collar and patch pockets with flaps. Wool pea jack-

  ets were also popular. They were double breasted, boxy, and were cut to just

  below the hip. They had a wide convertible collar and nautical buttons.

  Short play jackets or snow jackets were designed to be worn with snow

  pants. They zipped or buttoned up the front and had either straight sleeves

  or cuffed sleeves. The length of the jackets ranged from the waist to the

  hip. Convertible collars were common on this type of jacket, but sometimes

  they had hoods. Snow pants were cut full and gathered into knit cuffs at

  the ankle. Often the cuffs had zippers to make it easier to get in and out of

  the pants. Sometimes snow pants were reinforced at the knee.

  Teenage girls adopted their brothers’ and boyfriends’ large, buffalo

  plaid wool shirts as lightweight outerwear. These heavyweight shirts had

  a mannish fit and patch pockets at the breast. This trend was so popular

  that stores began to market the style to young women.

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  CHILDREN’S FASHIONS

  Rain capes were functional garments for young women. They

  extended just below the knee, had slash pockets, and came with a hood,

  which was finished with shirred elastic to frame the face to keep wind

  and rain out.

  Boys’ Coats. Flight or bomber jackets were popularized during the war.

  Both styles had zippered fronts and long full sleeves that gathered into a

  knit cuff. They also had a knit waistband. Most versions of the jacket had

  a variety of flap and slit pockets at the waist and breast. Hip-length

  leather jackets were popular among teenage boys. These zip-front gar-

  ments had convertible collars and slit pockets at the hips.

  The double-breasted trench coat remained popular among teenage and

  college men, but it lost a few details during the war. To conserve materi-

  als, the overlaid yoke, shoulder epaulets, and metal belt clasp were

  removed. Rain coats and overcoats continued to follow a wide-shouldered

  military style for several years. Another popular outer garment was the

  gabardine raincoat. This three-quarter-length coat was cut straight and

  had a notched collar and patch pockets with flaps.

  SWIMWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR

  Infant to Preteen

  Girls’ Ensembles. Young girls usually wore one-piece swimsuits with low-

  cut legs. Some girls wore swim dresses that had flared skirts. Sweetheart

  necklines were popular, and sometimes the shoulder straps were embel-

  lished with trims or braiding. Two-piece suits were worn also. They often

  had halter-style bra tops and trunks that extended over the navel to the

  natural waistline. Suits were made from rayon, cotton, wool, or a mix of

  these fibers. Elastic around the legs helped to keep the suit in place.

  Boys’ Ensembles. Boys’ swim trunks came in two different styles: tradi-

  tional stretch knit and boxer shorts. The knit style was made of wool or a

  wool and rayon blend. They fit snuggly and extended from just above the

  natural waist to the hip. Sometimes they were worn with a web belt or draw-

  string at the waist. The boxer short style was fuller and resembled shorts.

  They had a drawstring waist and were made from satin, cotton, or rayon.

  Sometimes boxer-style trunks were sold with matching cover-up shirts.

  Teen to College

  Girls’ Ensembles. Swimsuits came in three common styles: two piece, one-

  piece swim dress, and one piece with half-skirt. Two-piece suits often had

  halter-style bra tops that were shaped by darts. The bottoms consisted

  of trunks or a skirt that extended slightly above the natural waistline.

  1940s, World War II

  333

  One-piece swim dresses had princess seams and extended to a short,

  flared skirt that ended at just below the hip. The one piece with half-skirt

  had a V neckline, shoulder straps, and fit close from the bodice to the

  hem, which ended at the hip. Colorful prints made from rayon taffeta or

  rayon jersey were popular for swimsuits.

  Golf and tennis were popular sports for young women. Although

  appropriate tennis attire remained all white, golf sweaters and shirts intro-

  duced color. For both sports, teenage and college women wore similar gar-

  ments. Knit, short-sleeved shirts and collared, woven shirts were typically

  worn along with tailored, casual pants or full, skirt-like shorts. Long, boxy

  pullover and cardigan sweaters were designed to be thin and comfortable

  after players left the court.

  Boys’ Ensembles. Teenage and college boys wore two styles of swim-

  suits: wool knit trunks or boxer short trunks. Both styles had a drawstring

  waist and were drawn up high on the natural waist. The knit style was

  close fitting and extended to the hip. Sometimes this style had a belt. The

  boxer short style resembled shorts and extended to the upper thigh. Both

  styles usually came with a built-in supporter.

  To play tennis, young men wore white trousers or shorts. Typically,

  trousers had pleated fronts, creases, and cuffs. The shorts worn for sports

  often had an elastic waistband. Short-sleeve knit shirts with or without

  collars were worn, as well as sleeveless and long-sleeve pullover V-neck

  sweaters.

  HEADWEAR, HAIRSTYLES, AND COSMETICS

  Infant to Preteen

  Headwear. Young girls wore a variety of hats. Most had low crowns

  and narrow brims. Berets and headscarves tied under the chin were popu-

  lar as well.

  Young boys wore the pork-pie hat and caps. Cold winter months

  required more protection, so caps had flaps folded down over the ears and

  snapped or buckled under the chin. Cowboy hats were worn for play.

  Hairstyles. Most young girls had long hair during the 1940s. When it

  was left loose, it was flipped up or under. It was styled away from the
r />   face, and some styles had bangs. Many girls styled their hair into pigtails

  or two braids. Bows were worn at the end of braids, on a ponytail, and at

  the side of the head.

  Young boys wore their hair short with a side part. It was styled away

  from the face, and the front was left a little longer to enhance any wave

  in the hair.

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  CHILDREN’S FASHIONS

  Teen to College

  Headwear. Bonnet styles and berets were popular among young women.

  Most other hats had small crowns and narrow brims. They were embel-

  lished with ribbon hat bands, feathers, and veils.

  Young men wore caps, fedoras, and homburgs, which had tall crowns

  with a crease and narrow brims.

  Hairstyles. Teenage and college women wore their hair between chin

  length and shoulder length. As the decade progressed, more women had

  shorter hair. They styled their hair away from the sides and back from the

  crown of the head. Side parts were very popular, and women used bobby

  pins to gather and pin the hair back. Often they pinned a flower or bow

  at the place where they pinned their hair back. In the back, women curled

  their hair under.

  Young men wore their hair short and slicked back with pomade.

  Cosmetics. Young women wore face powder, lipstick, and rouge. Deep-

  red lipstick was popular, but, by the end of the decade, new products

  became available, and the emphasis began shifting from lips to eyes. With

  the shortage of nylon during the war, young women wore leg makeup and

  painted lines down the backs of their legs to give the illusion of seamed

  nylon stockings. Leg makeup was available in the form of lotion, cream,

  stick cake, and pancake.

  FOOTWEAR AND LEGWEAR

  Infant to Preteen

  Infants wore knitted bootees. Once toddlers began to walk, their parents

  would purchase a pair of white, soft leather, high-top baby shoes and cot-

  ton ankle socks. With polio still a frightening possibility, children’s feet

  were cared for with proper support from a very early age to keep the

  arches and ankles healthy and strong. Little girls wore leather oxfords for

  playing and Mary Janes for more formal occasions. Canvas high tops

  became the play shoe of choice for little boys after the war. They were

  inexpensive and could be washed. When restrictions were lifted after the

  war, cowboy boots became a sought-after accessory for boys.