Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al
Page 51
also known as bowlers.
dirndl: A slightly full skirt with a gathered waistline set into a waistband.
dog collar: A tall necklace that extended up from the base of the neck, usually
made of several strands of beads or jewels linked together at intervals by
bands.
dolman sleeve: A sleeve with a wide armscye (armhole) that may span from the
shoulder to the waist with a sleeve that tapers to a tight fit at the wrist.
Glossary, 1900–1949
343
duster: A long cotton or linen coat with long sleeves and a convertible collar.
empire waist: A waistline that is positioned just under the bustline. The name is
derived from the fashions popular during the reign of Napoleon Bonaparte,
emperor of France from 1804 to 1814.
epaulet: A tab or stripe of fabric that lies across the collar bone from the nape of
the neck to the shoulder cap. Epaulets may also be used on sleeves or pant
legs to position a rolled-up hem.
Eton crop: An exceptionally short women’s hairstyle that is closely cropped and
styled like a men’s 1920s hairstyle.
fez: A brimless conical hat with a flat top.
gabardine: A fabric that is twilled on one side into a fine diagonal weave.
gingham: A yarn-dyed cotton fabric that is usually woven into a check pattern.
godet (also known as a gore): A triangular piece of fabric inserted into a skirt
hem to add fullness.
gore: See godet.
guimpe: A chemise made of lightweight material that is used to fill in a low
neckline.
halter: A bodice style that is held up by a cord or straps around the neck. The
shoulders and upper back are left bare.
handkerchief hem: An uneven hem made with diagonally arranged fabric.
herringbone: See chevron.
hobble skirt: A long, narrow skirt that narrows further at the hem, creating a
limited stride for the wearer.
homburg: A felt hat with a soft creased crown and a narrow stiffened brim that
is turned up at the edge.
homespun: A coarse, loosely woven cloth.
inseam: The interior seam on the leg of a pant.
jabot: A frill or ruffle, usually made from lace, that is fastened to the neck and
extends down the front of the bodice.
jersey: A knit fabric.
jewel neckline: A round, shallow neckline that curves close to the nape of the neck.
kameeze or kameez: Long tunic with side vents.
kimono sleeve: A sleeve and bodice that was cut in one piece. The sleeve usually
widens as it reaches the wrist.
knickerbocker: A style of trousers that had loose, full legs that gathered into a
drawstring or band at the knee. They are also known as knickers.
lawn: A lightweight, cotton fabric that was somewhat sheer.
layette: A complete ensemble for a newborn infant consisting of garments, toi-
letries, and bedding.
leg-o-mutton sleeve: An extremely full, puffy sleeve that is created by gathering
fullness into the armscye (armhole) that tapers down the length of the
upper arm into a fitted, narrow cylinder covering the forearm, ending at the
wrist.
loafer: A simple slip-on, low-heeled shoe finished with a strap across the vamp
that may have a slit to hold a coin (see penny loafer) or tassels.
344
Glossary, 1900–1949
madras: A plaid or checked patterned lightweight cotton fabric originating from
Chennai, India.
maillot: A one-piece tank-style swimsuit with a variety of necklines and high-cut
or French-cut legs.
mandarin collar: See Chinese collar.
Mary Janes: A rounded-toe, medium-heeled shoe with strap across the vamp, of-
ten in black or white patent leather.
merry widow: See bustier.
monobosom: A bodice silhouette created by the S-bend corset, which forced a
woman’s hips back and her bosom forward. The bosom looked like one uni-
form, heavy ridge.
muff: A pillow-like accessory that has openings at each end for the hands. It is
used to keep hands warm.
mule: A slip-on shoe with either a high or low heel with either an open or closed
vamp but no back.
Norfolk jacket: A belted, hip-length sports jacket.
notched collar: A collar in which the seam between the lapel and collar forms a
notch.
Open-toe shoe (also known as a cut-away or peep toe): A shoe form that
enclosed the foot but leaves a small opening at the tip of the toe.
organza: A transparent, high-sheen fabric of silk, polyester, or nylon often used
in bridal and formal wear.
outseam: The seam that forms the outer edge of the pant leg.
oxford shoe: A basic shoe form with a closed vamp that usually has laces. The
women’s version has either a lace, buckle, zip, or button closing.
paletot: A loose, three-quarter-length coat with long, straight sleeves.
paniers: Attached undergarments or draped fabric that add extreme width to the
sides of the hip.
patch pocket: A pocket sewn to the outside of any garment with or without a
flap cover.
pea coat: A double-breasted coat of heavy felted wool or full melton with a notched
two-way collar that could be worn with the lapels flat or folded closed.
peau de soie: A medium- to heavyweight drapable fabric with a satin weave and
delustered finish.
peep-toe shoe: See open-toe shoe.
penny loafer: See loafer.
peplum: A short flounce or ruffle attached to the waist line of a blouse, jacket, or
dress.
Peter Pan collar: A narrow, flat collar with rounded edges.
petticoat: An underskirt, usually worn to give support or fullness to the
overskirt.
picot edging: A decoration consisting of small, thread-like loops at the edge of a
garment.
pinafore: A sleeveless garment, similar to an apron, that fastens in the back and
is worn over a dress.
Glossary, 1900–1949
345
plus fours: A fuller, more loose-fitting version of knickers, so named because they
draped four inches below the knee.
polo: A knit shirt with a two- or three-button placket, rib knit collar, and rib
knit-edged long or short sleeves.
polo coat: A double-breasted, six-button coat with a half belt in back and made
from tan camel’s hair.
pompadour: A men’s or women’s hairstyle whereby the hair is brushed into loose
rolls or waves around the face.
pr^et-a-porter: Ready-to-wear clothing.
princess seam: A structural seam that runs from the shoulder or armscye (arm-
hole) down the bottom edge of a shirt or dress or from the waist down to
the skirt hem that allows a garment to be form-fitted to the body.
raglan sleeve: A sleeve created in one piece with the bodice shoulder rather than
through an inset armscye (armhole).
rayon: An artificial fiber made by pressing a cellulose solution through fine holes
to produce filaments.
reefer coat: A loose, double-breasted coat with a notched collar and lapels.
reticule: A purse that is shaped like a pouch with drawstrings.
revers: Lapels.
robe-de-style: A modern interpretation of a period dress with crinolines.
Sabrina neckline: See bateau neckl
ine.
sailor collar: A collar style that extends from the lapels to a square cape in the
back. Usually, the collar would be trimmed with a loose necktie that was
knotted beneath the collar.
sarong: A rectangular piece of fabric wrapped around the body to form a skirt.
scoop neck: A deep, rounded neckline.
S-curve: A silhouette that was modeled after the figure of a mature woman. It
had a full, heavy monobosom; a narrow, corseted waist; a rounded hip and
bottom; and a trumpet-shaped skirt.
serge: A durable yet soft wool fabric.
shalwar or salwars: Trousers that have full, loose legs at the top and taper to
become narrow and fitted on the calf.
shearling: A tanned sheep hide with the wool left on.
sheath: A basic dress form, slightly fitted with darts or princess seams to create
shape.
shift: A basic dress form that skims but does not fit close to the body.
shingle: A short haircut that involved cutting the hair in the back very short.
shirtwaist: In the late nineteenth century until the 1920s, it meant, for women or
girls, a blouse with buttons down the front or tailoring like men’s shirts.
slingbacks: A shoe with no cover across the heel, just a thin strap fastening
around it to hold the shoe on.
stock neckline: See ascot.
surplice: A bodice style in which one side wraps over the other.
swagger coat: A coat with a flared back.
346
Glossary, 1900–1949
taffeta: A stiff, shiny fabric made from silk or synthetic fibers typically used in
bridal and formal wear.
tailor-made: A women’s suit that had masculine styling and was usually made by
a tailor.
T-bar shoes: Any shoe form with a T-shaped fastening across the vamp of the
shoe.
tulle: A net fabric typically used to stiffen and support garments.
tunic: A simple T-shaped garment with openings for the head and arms. This
type of garment is usually hip length or longer.
tweed: A twill weave fabric with slub or nubby yarns interspersed to create a tex-
tured surface. English, Harris, Scotch, and Donegal tweeds are popular
tweed variations.
U-neckline: A variation on the scoop neckline that plunges deeply across the
chest in the shape of a horseshoe.
vamp: The forward section of any shoe.
vent: One or more slits cut into the back or sides of men’s and women’s suit jack-
ets and blazers, or occasionally men’s and women’s shirts, from the bottom
edge of the hem up into the body of the garment approximately six inches
long.
wedge shoe: Any boot, shoe, or sandal with the sole and heel formed from one
continuous piece of material. It is typically thick at the heel and tapers to a
thin layer under the balls of the feet.
yoke: A structural element used on either the neck and shoulder or hip to provide
style lines and fit control.
zazous: A French anti-Nazi cultural youth movement influenced by jazz and
swing that preferred exaggerated clothing style similar to the American zoot
suit.
zoot suit: An exaggerated look composed of an oversized jacket that fell almost
at the knee, sporting wide lapels, exaggerated shoulders, and a contrasting
lining. The trousers had a three-inch waistband, were baggy, low crotched,
and full at the knees, had suspender buttons, and were tapered at the ankle.
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