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Amy T Peterson, Valerie Hewitt, Heather Vaughan, et al

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by The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing Through American History 1900 to the Present (pdf)

2:343 44; 1980s, 2:357; 1990s and

  1:223 24; 1947 1949, 1:237 38;

  2000s, 2:371 72

  1920s, 1:197 99; 1930s,

  Footwear (men): 1900s, 1:255; 1910s,

  1:211 13; 1950s, 2:180 82;

  1:262; 1920s, 1:271; 1930s, 1:278 79; 1960s, 2:192 93; 1970s, 2:204 6;

  1940s, 1:285; 1950s, 2:256; 1960s, 1980s, 2:215 16; 1990s, 2:227 28;

  2:265 66; 1970s, 2:275 76; 1980s, 2000s, 2:236 37

  2:284; 1990s, 2:294; 2000s, 2:302

  Fortuny, Mariano, 1:151

  Footwear (teen to college): 1950s,

  Frazier, Charles, 2:87

  2:317 18; 1960s, 2:330; 1970s, Freed, Alan, 2:52

  2:344 45; 1980s, 2:357 58; 1990s Freidan, Betty, 2:11

  and 2000s, 2:372

  Frissell, Toni, 1:73

  Footwear (women): 1900 1908, 1:179;

  Frost, Robert, 1:62

  1909 1914, 1:188; 1914 1919,

  Fundamentalist beliefs, 1920s, 1:38

  1:196; 1940 1946, 1:234 35;

  1947 1949, 1:243; 1920s, 1:209 10;

  Galanos, James, 2:35 36, 2:165

  1930s, 1:221 22; 1950s, 2:189 90;

  Gaming devices, entertainment for

  1960s, 2:201 2; 1970s, 2:213 14;

  teens and preteens, 2:10

  1980s, 2:223; 1990s, 2:224; 2000s, Garbo, Greta, 1:70; 1920s hairstyle,

  2:242

  1:209f

  Cumulative Index

  371

  Garment production: large-scale,

  1980s, 2:359; 1990s and 2000s,

  1:157; mass production, 1:157; for

  2:373 74

  soldiers, 1:157

  Gloves (women), 1950s, 2:191

  Gaultier, Jean Paul, underwear as

  Godfrey, Arthur, 1:83 84

  outerwear, 2:85

  Gold Standard Act of 1900, 1:23

  Gay Rights movement, 2:12 13,

  Golden, Arthur S., 2:87

  2:138, 2:152 53

  Golden Age of Hollywood: films of

  George, Grace, 1:68

  1930s, 1:75; films of 1940s, 1:82

  Germany: invasion of other countries,

  Goldman, James, 2:63

  1930s, 1:43; WWI, 1:19, 1:28, 1:31,

  Golf: men’s sportswear: 1900s, 1:252;

  1:36 37

  1910s, 1:260; 1920s, 1:268 69;

  Gershwin, George, 1:73, 1:74

  1930s, 1:277; 1940s, 1:283; 1950s, Gesture, 2:52

  2:253; 1960s, 2:263; 1970s, 2:273;

  GI Bill (Serviceman’s Readjustment

  1980s, 2:281 82; 1990s, 2:291;

  Act of 1944), 1:21, 1:46, 1:51, 2:23

  2000s, 2:300 301; women’s

  Gibson, Charles Dana, 1:55, 1:121

  sportswear: 1900 1908, 1:176;

  Gibson Girl, 1:55 56, 1:56f, 1:121

  1909 1914, 1:185; 1914 1919,

  Gimbels, 1:160

  1:193; 1940 1946, 1:231;

  Ginsburg, Allen, 2:102

  1947 1949, 1:241; 1920s, 1:205;

  Girl’s ensembles (children to preteen):

  1930s, 1:219; 1950s, 2:186 87;

  casual wear: 1950s, 2:309,

  1960s, 2:198; 1970s, 2:211; 1980s,

  2:311 12; 1960s, 2:322 23; 1970s,

  2:221; 1990s, 2:231; 2000s, 2:240

  2:335 36; 1980s, 2:350; 1990s and Goodman, Benny (King of Swing), 1:79

  2000s, 2:363 64; formalwear:

  Gorbachev, Mikhail, 2:38

  1950s, 2:306; 1960s, 2:320; 1970s, Gordon, Gary, Tick Tock Rhythm,

  2:332; 1980s, 2:347; 1990s and

  1:80

  2000s, 2:361

  Gordy, Barry, Motown Records, 1957,

  Girl’s ensembles (teen to college):

  2:54, 2:60

  casual wear: 1960s, 2:324 25; 1970s, Goth, alternative fashion, 2:235, 2:244,

  2:337 38; 1980s, 2:352 53; 1990s

  2:295

  and 2000s, 2:365 66; formalwear:

  Gotham Ball, 1:106

  1950s, 2:307 8; 1960s, 2:321; 1970s, Government and political movements:

  2:333 34; 1980s, 2:348 49; 1990s 1950s, 2:19 20; 1960s, 2:24 26;

  and 2000s, 2:362

  1970s, 2:30 31; 1980s, 2:35 37; the Givenchy, Hubert de, film-fashion,

  1900s, 1:21 22; the 1910s, 1:28; the 1960s, 2:65, 2:65f, 2:161 62

  1920s, 1:33 34; the 1930s, 1:39 41;

  Glamour (magazine), 1980s to present,

  the 1940s, 1:44 45; 1990s and

  2:173

  2000s, 2:40 41

  Glasnost, 2:38

  Graham, Martha, 1:75

  Glenn Miller’s Orchestra, 1:8

  Grand Ole Opry, radio broadcast,

  Glossary: 1900 1949, 1:341 46; 1950

  1925, 1:71

  to present, 2:375 79

  Great Depression, 1:6; American art,

  Gloves (children): 1950s, 2:318 19;

  1:72; children’s fashion, 1:316 26;

  1960s, 2:331; 1970s, 2:345 46;

  discrimination against ethnicity,

  372

  Cumulative Index

  Great Depression (Continued )

  Hairstyles (women): 1900 1908, 1:179;

  1:39, 1:44; eating habits, 1:106 7;

  1909 1914, 1:187; 1914 1919,

  effects on haute couture, 1:152 53;

  1:195; 1940 1946, 1:234;

  effects on minorities, 1:43 44; five 1947 1949, 1:242; 1920s, 1:207 8,

  & dime stores, 1:160; men’s fashion,

  1:208f; 1930s, 1:221; 1950s, 2:189;

  1:272 79; shape of the 1930s, 1:41;

  1960s, 2:200 201; 1970s, 2:213;

  strain on families, 1:13, 1:138;

  1980s, 2:222 23; 1990s, 2:233;

  women in the workforce and, 1:11;

  2000s, 2:241

  women’s fashion, 1:211 23

  Haley, Alex

  Greer, Howard, 1:77

  Halston, 2:24, 2:24f

  Grey, Zane, 1:62

  Handbags: 1900 1908, 1:179 80;

  Griffith, D. W., 1:70

  1909 19148, 1:188; 1914 1919,

  Gris, Juan, 1:61

  1:196 97; 1940 1946, 1:236;

  Grisham, John, 2:87

  1947 1949, 1:243; 1920s, 1:211;

  Growing up in America, 1:136 38,

  1930s, 1:222; children, 1:325 26;

  2:139 42, 2:146 48; 1900s, 1950s, 2:191; 1960s, 2:202; 1970s,

  1:123 26; 1950s, 2:124 26; 1960s,

  2:214; 1980s, 2:224; 1990s, 2:235;

  2:131 34; the 1910s, 1:129 30; the 2000s, 2:242

  1930s, 1:140; the 1940s, 1:142 44;

  Handbags (children): 1950s, 2:318 19;

  1990s and 2000s, 2:153 55; 1950s to 1960s, 2:331; 1970s, 2:345 46;

  present, 2:13 14

  1980s, 2:359; 1990s and 2000s,

  Grunge, alternative fashion, 2:86 87,

  2:373 74

  2:86f, 2:236, 2:295, 2:296f

  Handy, William Christopher,

  Guare, John, 2:78, 2:89

  1:62 63

  Guest Worker Plan, 2004, 2:45

  Hansberry, Lorraine, 2:55

  Gulf of Tonkin Resolution, 2:25, 2:28

  Hansen, Mark Victor, 2:88

  Guthrie, Woody, 1:81

  Hanson, Duane, 2:68

  Harding, Warren G.: return to

  Hairstyles (children): 1900s, 1:296;

  normalcy, 1920, 1:6; scandals, 1:20,

  1910s, 1:304 5; 1920s, 1:314; 1930s,

  1:33

  1:323 24; 1940s, 1:332 33

  Haring, Keith, 2:68

  Hairstyles (children to preteen): 1950s,

  Harlem Renaissance: 1920s, 1:39;

  2:315 16; 1960s, 2:328; 1970s, 1930s, 1:73 74

  2:342; 1980s, 2:356; 1990s and Harlow, Jean, 1:69

  2000s, 2:370

  Harper’s Bazaar (magazine): early

  Hairstyles (men): 1900s, 1:254; 1910s,

  1900s, 1:16; Holl
ywood stylists

  1:262; 1920s, 1:270; 1930s, 1:278;

  featured in 1920s and 1930s,

  1940s, 1:284 85; 1950s, 2:255;

  1:153; photography, 1:162;

  1960s, 2:265; 1970s, 2:275; 1980s, 1920s, 1:67; 1950s, 2:171; 1960s,

  2:283; 1990s, 2:293; 2000s, 2:302

  2:171

  Hairstyles (teen to college): 1950s,

  Harris, Roy, 1:73

  2:316; 1960s, 2:328 29; 1970s, Harrison Narcotics Act, 1914, 1:100

  2:343; 1980s, 2:356; 1990s and Hats: blocking, 1:167; during WWII,

  2000s, 2:370 71

  1:153 54. See also Headwear

  Cumulative Index

  373

  Haute couture, 1:149; collapse during

  Heat-molded seaming, 1980s to

  German occupation, 1:152; effects of

  present, 2:177

  Great Depression, 1:152 53; effort Hefner, Hugh, 2:12, 2:129 30

  to reestablish Paris after WWII,

  Held, Al, 2:59

  1:154; perception of, after WWII,

  Held, John, Jr., 1:101

  1:154; 1940s, 1:153 55; 1950s, Hemingway, Ernest, 1:68, 1:81

  2:160 61; 1980s, 2:37 38; 1960s Hemp, use in shoes, 1:167

  and 1970s, 2:161 62; the 1900s and Henri Bendel, 1:159

  1910s, 1:150 52; the 1920s and

  Hepburn, Audrey, Hubert de Givenchy

  1930s, 1:152 53; 1980s to present, collaboration, 1960s, 2:65, 2:65f

  2:162 64

  Herbert, Victor, 1:61

  Hawkins, Stephen, 2:78

  Heroin chic, mid-1990s, 2:117, 2:174

  Hayes, Helen, 1:60

  Hilfiger, Tommy, 2:166

  Head, Edith, 1:76, 1:77, 1:153

  Hip-Hop. see Rap and Hip-Hop

  Headwear (children): 1900s, 1:295 96;

  Hippies, alternative fashion, 2:203 4,

  1910s, 1:304 5; 1920s, 1:314; 1930s,

  2:266, 2:267f

  1:323 24; 1940s, 1:332 33

  Hiroshima and Nagasaki, 1945, 1:49

  Headwear (children to preteen): 1950s,

  Hispanic Americans: 1960s, 2:30;

  2:315; 1960s, 2:328; 1970s, 2:342;

  1990s and 200s, 2:46

  1980s, 2:355 56; 1990s and 2000s,

  Historic movies, 1990s, 2:89

  2:369

  Historicism, 1990s, 2:113

  Headwear (men): 1900s, 1:254; 1910s,

  Hitler, Adolf, 1:37, 1:49, 1:72

  1:261; 1920s, 1:270; 1930s, 1:278;

  Hoff, Carl, 1:80

  1940s, 1:284; 1950s, 2:255; 1960s, Hoffmann, Josef, 1:66

  2:265; 1970s, 2:275; 1980s, 2:283;

  Holliday, Billie, 1:39

  1990s, 2:293; 2000s, 2:302

  Hollywood: films of 1950s, 2:55 57;

  Headwear (teen to college): 1950s,

  influence during WWII, 1:164 65;

  2:316; 1960s, 2:328; 1970s, McCarthyism and, 2:9, 2:19; new

  2:342 43; 1980s, 2:356; 1990s and era in film, 1969, 2:9; worldwide

  2000s, 2:370

  market, 1980s, 2:9

  Headwear (women): 1900 1908,

  Hollywood stylists, challenging Paris,

  1:178 79; 1909 1914, 1:187;

  1920s and 1930s, 1:1534

  1914 1919, 1:195; 1940 1946,

  Home Shopping Network (HSN),

  1:233 34; 1947 1949, 1:242; 1920s,

  2:169

  1:207 9, 1:207f; 1930s, 1:220 21;

  Homelessness, 1980s, 2:146

  1950s, 2:188 89; 1960s, 2:200;

  Homeowners Loan Corporation, 1:42

  1970s, 2:212; 1980s, 2:212; 1990s, Homosexuality, 2:12 13, 2:138;

  2:233; 2000s, 2:241

  acceptance, 1980s, 2:145 46;

  Health and leisure: 1900s, 1:93 95;

  division regarding, 1990s, 2:151 53

  1910s, 1:99 100; 1920s, 1:103 5;

  Hoover, Herbert: attitude toward

  1930s, 1:106 7; 1940s, 1:109 12;

  Japan, 1:43; Great Depression, 1:6;

  1950s, 2:99 100; 1960s, 2:102 4;

  limited government policies, 1:34,

  1970s, 2:106 8; 1980s, 2:109 12;

  1:36, 1:41

  1990s and 2000s, 2:114 18

  Horst, Horst P., 1:73

  374

  Cumulative Index

  House of Dior, 2:160

  International Geophysical Year (IGY),

  House of Style (TV show), 2:82

  1955, 2:22

  House of Worth, 1:150 51

  International Ladies’ Garment

  Household innovations, in the

  Workers Union, 1:32

  1900 1949 period, 1:10

  International Money Fund (IMF), 1:49

  Housing, after WWII, 1:48

  Iranian hostage crisis, 2:33, 2:36

  Howard, Leslie, 1:68

  Iraq war, 2003, 2:43

  Hoyningen-Huene, 1:73

  Iribe, Paul, 1:161

  Hughes, Langston, 1:39, 1:74

  Irving, John, 2:70

  Human immunodeficiency virus

  Isolationism, 1:37

  (HIV), 2:13, 2:37; first case, 1981, Italy: after WWI, 1:36 37; invasion of

  2:111; 1980s, 2:146

  other countries, 1930s, 1:43

  Humphrey, Hubert, 2:25

  Hurston, Zora Neale, 1:74

  J. C. Penney, Golden Rule Stores,

  Hutton, Barbara, debutante in 1930,

  1913, 1:158

  1:106

  Jackets and vests: men’s business wear:

  Huxley, Aldous Leonard, 1:68

  19303, 1:272; 1900s, 1:249; 1910s, Hwang, David Henry, 2:78

  1:257; 1920s, 1:265; 1940s,

  1:280 81; 1950s, 2:250; 1960s, Ibsen, Henrik, 1:60

  2:260; 1970s, 2:270; 1980s, 2:278;

  Iman, 2:172

  1990s, 2:288; men’s casual wear:

  Immigration: into America,

  1900s, 1:250 51; 1910s, 1:258;

  1901 1910, 1:6 7, 1:20, 1:23,

  1920s, 1:266; 1930s, 1:274; 1940s,

  1:26 27, 1:31 33; debates in the

  1:282; 1950s, 2:251; 1960s, 2:261;

  1990s, 2:45; from Eastern Europe,

  1970s, 2:271; 1980s, 2:280; 1990s, 1920s, 1:38; marriage for immigrant

  2:289; 2000s, 2:299; men’s families, 1900s, 1:118 19; from

  formalwear: 1900s, 1:248 49; 1910s, Mexico, 1920s, 1:38

  1:256; 1920s, 1:263 64; 1930s, Immigration and Naturalization Act of

  1:272; 1940s, 1:280; 1950s, 2:249;

  1952, 2:20, 2:34

  1960s, 2:258 59; 1970s, 2:269;

  Immigration Reform and Control Act,

  1980s, 2:277; 1990s, 2:287; 2000s, 1986, 2:40

  2:297

  Indian Arts and Crafts Board, 1935, 1:44

  Jackson, Michael, 2:75 76, 2:76f Indian Reorganization Act, 1934, 1:44

  Jahn, Helmuth, 2:75

  Info-tainment television, 2:92

  James, Charles, 1:154

  International Council of Scientific

  Japan: becoming a world power, 1931,

  Unions, 2:22

  1:42 43; emergence as a world

  International developments: 1950s,

  superpower, 2:39; in WWII, 1:48 49

  2:21 23; 1960s, 2:27 28; 1970s, Japanese Americans, treatment during

  2:32 33; 1980s, 2:38 40; the 1900s, WWII, 1:45

  1:23 26; the 1910s, 1:30 31; the Jazz Age, 1920s, 1:8, 1:54, 1:67 68;

  1920s, 1:36 37; the 1930s, 1:42 43;

  children’s fashions, 1:307 16; men’s the 1940s, 1:48 50; 1990s and

  fashions, 1:263 72; women’s

  2000s, 2:43 44

  fashions, 1:197 211

  Cumulative Index

  375

  The Jazz Singer, first talkie, 1:69

  Keaton, Buster, 1:69

  Jeaneret-Gris, Charles Edouard (Le

  Kellerman, Annette, 1:177

&
nbsp; Corbusier), 1:72

  Kennedy, Jacqueline Bouvier, 2:24,

  Jewelry (children): 1930s, 1:325; 1950s,

  2:24f, 2:184f; social occasions, 2:101,

  2:318; 1960s, 2:330 31; 1970s,

  2:101f; source of fashion, 1960s,

  2:345; 1980s, 2:358 59; 1990s and

  2:171

  2000s, 2:373

  Kennedy, John Fitzgerald ( JFK), 2:4,

  Jewelry (men): 1900s, 1:256; 1910s,

  2:17, 2:24 25, 2:24f, 2:27 28, 2:60,

  1:263; 1920s, 1:271; 1930s,

  2:184f; impact on social occasions,

  1:279; 1940s, 1:286; 1950s, 2:257;

  2:100 101

  1960s, 2:266; 1970s, 2:276; 1980s, Kennedy, William, 2:77

  2:285; 1990s, 2:294 95; 2000s, Kent State University, 1970, 2:140

  2:303

  Kenzo, 2:39

  Jewelry (women): 1900 1908,

  Kern, Jerome, 1:60

  1:179 80; 1909 1914, 1:188;

  Kesey, Ken, 2:63, 2:134

  1914 1919, 1:196; 1940 1946,

  Kiminos (1909 1914), 1:187

  1:236; 1947 1949, 1:243; 1920s, King, Billie Jean, 2:106

  1:210 11; 1930s, 1:222; 1950s, King, Stephen, 2:70, 2:77 78

  2:190; 1960s, 2:202; 1970s, 2:214;

  King Tut, fashion inspiration, 1922,

  1980s, 2:224; 1990s, 2:234 35;

  1:203

  2000s, 2:242

  Kinsey Reports, sexual revolution,

  Jewish immigrants, Eastern Europe,

  2:129

  1:26 27

  Klee, Paul, 1:67

  Jim Crow laws, 1:7, 1:26, 1:50, 2:29

  Klein, Anne, 2:165

  Jitterbug, 1:110

  Klimt, Gustav, 1:66

  Jogging, 1970s, 2:106

  Korean Conflict, 2:22 23

  Johnson, Betsey, 2:164

  Kors, Michael, 2:164

  Johnson, Lyndon Baines (LBJ):

  Krushchev, Nikita, 2:27 28

  Great Society Program, 2:3, 2:18,

  Ku Klux Klan: after WWI, 1:37;

  2:25, 2:102 3; tax cuts, 1964, during WWI, 1:33

  2:26

  Kushner, Robert, 2:67

  Johnson, Philip, 2:75

  Kushner, Tony, 2:89

  Johnson, Spencer, 2:88

  Kyser, Kay, 1:80

  Johnson-Reed Act, 1924, 1:37

  Jolson, Al, 1:69

  La Belle Epoque (Edwardian) era,

  Joyce, James, 1:68

  1:171 80

  Juilliard School, 1:81

  Labor unions, 1:20, 1:40

  Junkie chic, mid-1990s, 2:117

  Lacroix, Christian, 2:38, 2:163

  Ladies Home Journal (magazine): early

  Kandinsky, Wassily, 1:67

  1900s, 1:16; 1950s, 2:171

  Kaprow, Allen, 2:59

  Lampshade tunic, 1:181f, 1:182

  Karan, Donna, 2:166

  Landscapes, 1:53

  KDKA, first commercial radio station,

  Lange, Dorothea, 1:72

  Pittsburgh, 1:70

  Lauren, Ralph, 2:163, 2:165, 2:166

 

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