Siberian Huskies For Dummies

by Diane Morgan

  Pet stores

  Buying your Siberian puppy from a private hobby breeder is really the best possible option, but if you see a pet store Siberian that you can’t resist, you are forgiven. However, because some pet stores get their dogs from commercial breeders, you need to be extra careful. Dogs from commercial breeders may have health or temperament problems that won’t become apparent for months.

  Pet stores should charge no more for their puppies than a hobby breeder does in your area.

  The pet store should be able to provide you with the contact information of the original breeder. Call that person up, and ask the same questions that you would of a hobby breeder. Be leery of anyone who will not forthrightly answer your questions. And be doubly wary if the puppies come from out of state. Your best bet is a pet store that deals only with local breeders. Ask for proof, and obtain the contact information. Then use it.

  The puppy should come with a pedigree, a health record, and a guarantee. Demand to see CERF and OFA records just as you would with a private breeder. If the pet store cannot supply these, you should know that your puppy is at risk for eye problems and hip dysplasia. At the very least, you should be able to bring the dog to your vet for a thorough checkup before the purchase is finalized.

  Because pet store puppies have already been weaned, you won’t see the mother, which can be a disadvantage. Take the time to play with each puppy and check to be sure that they are playful, but not too aggressive. Use the same criteria to evaluate the puppy that you would elsewhere.

  Although it may break your heart to walk away from a puppy, it hurts a lot worse if you make the wrong decision. Impulse buying is a very dangerous thing when it comes to dogs.

  It is true that some people can rescue a sick puppy from an unhealthy situation. If this is what your heart tells you to do, then do it. People often take dogs from the shelter for the same humanitarian reasons.

  Rescue organizations

  Rescue organizations are one of best sources for a first-rate Siberian. Siberian Husky Rescue (www.siberianrescue.org) specializes in the breed, and usually has many available for adoption. Most rescue groups are choosy about whom they adopt to. Expect to fill out an application and to pay an adoption fee, usually of about $150. A house check or vet references may also be required. Shelter groups will often lower this fee for older or special-needs dogs. You may be able to get a retired sled dog or one who just didn’t work out as a racer.

  There truly is a dog for everyone. My friend Peg Wheeler, who operates our local Siberian Rescue, adopted out a three-legged Husky named Thumper to a loving home. The couple who adopted her had already had two previous three-legged Huskies; they had been looking everywhere for another one. They also decided to adopt another of Peg’s rescues, thinking that Thumper needed some company. They named their new girl Bambi.

  Chapter 4

  Preparing for Your Puppy

  In This Chapter

  Buying all the supplies you need before your puppy arrives

  Finding ways to keep your puppy occupied

  Knowing what’s safe for your puppy to play with

  Don’t let your new Siberian come home to an empty house. You need to fill it with Husky paraphernalia. This chapter lets you know the basic necessities for life with a Siberian.

  Collars and Leashes

  Figure 4-1 shows a variety of collars that you may use for your Siberian Husky. You can buy either a rolled-leather buckle collar or the flat kind made of leather or nylon. The rolled collar leaves less wear on the neck. Some of these collars are adjustable, and many are equipped with a kind of quick-release system.

  You may also want to consider using one of the new head collars, like the Gentle Leader or Halti head collar in addition to, or in place of, a regular collar. See Chapter 9 for more details.

  I’m not a major advocate of the choke collar, to say the least. This collar can be useful at times, but if you train your dog correctly, right from the start, you probably won’t need one. Most people don’t know how to use a choke collar correctly. A choke collar works by putting pressure on a dog’s windpipe. If correctly adjusted, the pressure is not great and self-corrects quickly. However, choke collars do work by making dogs uncomfortable or possibly even causing them pain. Most choke collars also tear out fur, although a fur-saving choke collar is available. An incorrectly applied choke collar can cause trauma, a collapsed trachea, or even death. Is it worth it? I don’t think so. Besides, the best relationships are forged without applying pain. If you plan to use a choke collar, check out Figure 4-2 for the correct way to put the collar on your dog.

  Figure 4-1: Collars are an important safety measure when you own a dog.

  Figure 4-2: The correct way to put a choke collar on your Husky.

  You need a leash for taking your Husky on those long walks he’ll require. If a leash is an unfamiliar item to your dog, allow him to drag it around the house or yard for a while as he becomes accustomed to it. Don’t leave him unattended, however — your Siberian will certainly attempt to devour the thing. The leash may also get tangled up in the furniture or bushes and panic the dog.

  Leather leashes are easy on your hands, but they’re slippery when wet. Nylon leashes can give you rope burn if you’re not careful. Dogs seem to prefer to eat leather leashes, but Huskies are fairly omnivorous in this regard.

  The Flexi and other similar brands are great inventions. These leashes adjust to various lengths at the push of a button and come in lengths of up to 23 feet. They are perfect for long walks in the meadows.

  ID Tags

  Have your Siberian wear a collar with ID tags at all times. Some people fear that their dog’s collar will get caught, but the collar is a real lifesaver. My friend Debbie was out of the house when fire broke out in her home. Because her Tibetan Terrier, Dalai, was wearing a collar, it was easy for the firefighters to capture him and lead him to safety.

  Besides, any dog can escape or be lost, and Huskies are a lot better at this than most. A collar and some identification are the simplest way for you to be reunited with your delinquent pal. Even if you walk your Siberian on a choke collar, keep a buckle collar on him at the same time with his identification, license, and rabies tags. My dogs’ collars have their names and our phone number sewn on them in big letters (available from pet catalogs), but you can accomplish the same thing with a laundry marker.

  Don’t leave a choke collar on an unattended dog. These are more likely than regular collars to get caught on something and, unlike a regular collar, can do some damage to the dog’s neck.

  Huskies are just clever at pulling out of a collar; you don’t want to be caught standing with the leash and the collar in your hand. Ideally, collars with tags should be the reflective type; they help protect runaway dogs from cars.

  If your Husky runs away, check the local animal shelter personally to see if your dog is there. Do not rely on a phone call alone. Believe me, I have learned from personal experience that many shelter workers don’t know a Coonhound from a Cocker Spaniel. Go look yourself. Half the time, after you retrieve your Siberian, you’ll get an incredulous, “Huh, whaddya know? We thought that was a Rottweiler/Dachshund mix.”

  You can register your dog with a lost-pet service, which may provide for tattooing or microchipping your dog. These procedures don’t hurt and can be effective, but they should be used in conjunction with a collar, not as a replacement of one.

  Keep some clear and recent photos of your dog handy. If your Husky gets away, you will want to make flyers with his picture on them.

  Food and Water Dishes

  The best pet food dishes are made of stainless steel or chrome. (You can buy weighted ones that your Husky can’t push around so easily.) Some of them have tapered sides, to make cleanup easier. Stainless steel, dishwasher-safe bowls are much easier to keep clean than plastic ones. Plastic dishes can also develop tiny crevices from being chewed on by dogs. Heavy stoneware is usually acceptable, but even that can c
hip or develop minute cracks. These small fissures can become hiding places for all sorts of creatures you don’t want in your kitchen or in your dog’s digestive tract. There are enough awful things there anyway.

  Outdoor dogs should drink from plastic or ceramic bowls in the wintertime. Their tongues can stick to metal ones.

  If your Husky spends a lot of time outdoors in the winter, purchase a little immersible heater that will keep water temperature at 40 to 50 degrees. You can also get electrically heated food and water dishes. For bigger dogs, you can buy a heated 5-gallon flat-back bucket. Remember, too, that your outdoor dog needs more calories in the winter than in the summertime — up to twice as many.

  Pet Doors

  Although a pet door is not strictly necessary, it is a really desirable convenience. A high-quality pet door allows your dog to go from the yard to the porch or kitchen at will, and the best ones can be adjusted so they will let pets in but not out, or vice versa. If you’re a working owner of a Husky, or if you just keep up with letting your dog in and out of the house five times an hour, then a pet door is a necessity in your life!

  Outdoor Kennels

  A kennel with a run is a useful item for Siberians, especially if you have no fenced yard. The minimum size should be 6-x-12 feet and 6 feet high. If you have a choice of shape, the best kennels are long and narrow rather than square. The long run encourages a kenneled dog to run and get exercise.

  A concrete ground surface is easiest to clean, and it’s also impossible for your Husky to dig out of. However, concrete can be hard on a dog’s feet. Some people recommend filling the kennel area with pea gravel or sand, at least in the middle, in order to give the dog a digging spot. Make sure the run is shaded as well.

  Grooming Tools

  Grooming tools are a necessity for keeping your Husky healthy and beautiful. Here are the essentials:

  Rake. This is a wooden instrument with two rows of teeth. It removes dead hair and keeps the coat healthy.

  Wide-toothed metal comb (also called a Collie comb).

  Slicker brush.

  Pin brush (ones made for people are fine). See Figure 4-3 for an illustration.

  Dematting tool.

  Spray mist bottle with water.

  Grooming table. This item isn’t necessary, but it’s really nice.

  Dog Beds

  Your Siberian should have his own bed. More than most breeds, Siberians are content to sleep on the floor, but they deserve their own special place. I like dog beds with at least some cedar bedding inside; they smell nice and repel fleas. Unfortunately, a few dogs simply won’t go near a cedar bed. You may have to experiment a little.

  Figure 4-3: Brushes and a shedding rake will help you keep your Husky healthy and beautiful.

  The Pet Butler Company sells an outdoor dog bed. This bed is made of vinyl coated synthetic yarn in an open weave construction, designed to dry fast. It is non-odor-absorbing and contains a fungicide to prevent mildew.

  If you like making up your own dog beds from zippered liners and pillow cases, 25 pounds of cedar chips will make you about 7 Husky beds!

  Gates

  You can use a baby or doggy gate to keep certain rooms out of your dog’s domain while you are home. Gates come in flexible widths and various heights. Don’t use them as dog sitters, though. Some Siberians eat or jump over doggy gates with ease.

  Crates

  Unfortunately, some people who are not used to working with crates have an aversion to them. This may be because, to our human eyes, a crate looks like prison, and we do not generally acquire pets to keep them locked up. But this is looking through human eyes. For a dog, a crate is his den, a comfortable place to get away from it all. Dogs go into crates and dens naturally. Many people keep a crate, with the door open, in the house at all times, and when the dog turns up missing, there he is, snoozing peacefully away in his crate.

  Crates have many advantages:

  They are the ultimate house-training tool. (I talk more about this in Chapter 5.)

  They make transporting your pet safer and easier.

  Many motels will accept only dogs who are confined in crates.

  If your dog has an injury or any operation, it may be necessary for him to be kept quiet for a period. A crate makes this possible.

  So even if you don’t plan to use a crate on a regular, day-to-day basis, you’re doing a dog a tremendous favor by allowing him to have one. A crate is also an extremely useful tool for house-training, but it is only a tool. It should never become a prison — or a baby-sitter.

  A full-grown Siberian needs a crate measuring about 36 inches long by 24 inches wide by 26 inches high.

  Several types of crates are available:

  Heavy-gauge welded wire mesh. These crates allow excellent ventilation and provide better visibility for your dog, reducing the separation factor. I recommend them for Siberians, because Sibes, with their thick coats, need lots of ventilation.

  Heavy-duty plastic. These usually come in two pieces, with ventilation areas on the sides (see Figure 4-4). This is the kind airlines usually require. They are cozy and den-like. Make sure you get one that is very tough, because Siberians are addicted to chewing plastic.

  A lightweight, fabric, portable crate that folds up like a tent. Some kinds weigh under 6 pounds; you can stick them in your car or under your arm (as long as there’s not a Siberian in them). A Siberian should be supervised while he is in this type of crate; he can hop across the floor in it. These are best for shows, motels rooms, and other activities where you are there to supervise.

  Used correctly, your Husky will consider the crate his very own little den and go into it voluntarily when things get too much for him. Overuse of the crate, however, or using it for too long a period or as punishment, will not create the desired result. Make sure the crate has a water dish attached inside.

  Figure 4-4: A heavy-duty plastic crate is great for airline travel as well as everyday home use.

  New crates can be expensive, usually over a hundred dollars. See if you can buy a secondhand crate from the classifieds or local yard sales. Or check with friends. It’s amazing how many people have extra dog crates lying around their basements. You may even be able to borrow one, especially if you plan to use it only until your Husky is house-trained.

  Chew Toys

  If your Siberian is stuck in a barren house with little to entertain him, he’ll make his own fun. This is when tension chewing starts. And because your Husky has no stamp collection of his own, he may start working on yours. Try getting him some of his own toys, and alternate them frequently so that he doesn’t become bored with them. Use toys of different shapes, hardness, and textures.

  The days of the simple squeaky toy are past. Some very creative and interesting dog toys are now on the market. Some toys make a variety of noises: They bleep, baa, snarl, honk, and roar. Most dogs find these things fascinating. (I do, too!)

  Don’t give your Siberian rawhide bones; they can cause digestive upset, and even pancreatitis, especially in dogs who manage to chew the things up in huge chunks and then swallow them.

  Praise your dog for chewing appropriate toys. You can even play along with him when he chooses the right ones.

  Never give your dog an old shoe as a toy, unless there is some way he can particularly identify it as his. You cannot expect him to be able to distinguish between old shoes and new ones. It is difficult enough for a dog to learn exactly what are his toys and what aren’t, under the best of circumstances. Human toys are not acceptable for dogs either, because dogs are much rougher on toys than even the most destructive toddler. They simply won’t hold up.

  Socks never make good chew toys for dogs, because a dog can easily swallow a sock. The sock can become impacted in the digestive system, and the dog may require surgery to have it removed.

  The best stuffed animal toys are made of acrylic fur and 100 percent polyester filling that washes easily. You don’t have to
make a habit of it, but when the mood strikes you, you can put them in a mesh bag and throw them in the washer with some dog towels for balance.

  To entertain your Siberian in a handsome style, you may want to purchase a combination chew and toy in the form of Space Balls, Kongs, and related products. You can insert a treat in these bouncing toys, and your dog will have a delightful time, attacking and chewing the toy, rather than the furniture. Kongs are microwaveable, so for a special treat, you can melt a bit of cheese or peanut butter and dry dog food together inside it. It’ll take your greedy dog hours to get all of it out. Be careful of very hard toys, though. They are the major cause of tooth breakage among dogs. Use your best judgment.

  Never give your dog a ball so small that he can swallow it! (Siberians can crush and swallow tennis balls.) If a ball gets stuck in his throat, you’ll need to open his mouth and reach in with pliers to get it out. And if you don’t catch it soon enough, he could die.

  Some people recommend letting the dog chew real sticks; I think this is fine when he’s outside, but inside it’s too much to expect your pup to know the difference between an oak branch and your Windsor chair. I can’t always tell the difference myself.