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The Cloud Forest

Page 29

by Peter Matthiessen


  The kind people who gave me supper here and a drink there are too numerous to list, but for kindness, advice and assistance, and incidental hospitality I am especially indebted to the following: Captain Geoffrey Davis, Mr. Deslandes, Brian Starmer, Derek Johnson, and Mike Williamson (M.S.Venimos); Harry Haddad (Belém); Jack Henderson, Wayne Snell, Joseph Hocking (Yarina Cocha); Andrés Porras, Celeste Allen, Señor Rafael Larco Hoyle, Sir Berkeley and Lady Gage, Madeleine Vuillemin, Anna and John Timoney, Mr. Dum Tweedy, Señor Augusto Benavides, and Elizabeth and Ted Kiendl (Lima); Señora Estelle León de Peralta and her kind family, Señor Benjamino de la Torre, and Colonel Tooey (Cuzco); Peggy Cody (La Paz); Señores Fernando Menendez Behety, Jorge and Francisco Campos Menendez (Punta Arenas); Jaime Speroni, George Blackwell (Río Grande); Capitán Ernesto Campos, Señora and Señor Eduardo Menon (Ushuaia); T. L. Bridges (Viamonte); Peter de Rougemont, Roberto Corte Real (Rio de Janeiro); Otto Austel (Macauba).

  And finally, I would like very much to thank Andrés Porras and Wayne Snell, who have been good enough to inspect the finished journal which forms Chapter 6 of this volume for any errors or distortions.

  Index

  The page references in this index correspond to the printed edition from which this ebook was created. To find a specific word or phrase from the index, please use the search feature of your ebook reader.

  Acacia trees, 69

  Aconcagua, Mount, 82

  Agassiz, Louis, 33, 240

  Agostino, a boga, 195, 198, 201–202, 206, 209, 216, 258

  Agouti, 241

  Agriculture, 53, 62, 76, 134, 214

  Aguaruna Indians, 51

  Air plants, 44, 69, 159

  Alacalufe Indians, 91, 95, 105

  Albatross, 93–94

  Alder tree, 71

  Alejandro, a bearer, 181, 185, 187, 190–91, 193, 195, 198, 201–203, 205–207, 209, 215, 217, 221, 230, 244, 247, 254, 264–66

  Algae, 7–8, 110

  Allen, Celeste, 158

  Altiplano, 59, 73, 76, 80, 86

  Amahuaca Indians, 222, 227, 235, 239–40

  Amasisa tree, 229

  Amazon River, 22, 26, 142, 151, 228, 240; main channel of, 32; survey of, 29; temperature near, 28

  Amazonas, 23–24, 36, 46, 118; dangerous creatures of, 54; size of, 27; waters of, 24

  American Museum of Natural History, 261, 268

  Anaconda, 24–25, 32, 37, 53, 55

  Anápolis, Brazil, 119, 123, 128

  Anchoa, 116

  Andes, the, 204; Argentine, 80, 88; Bolivian, 80, 149; Chilean, 80–81, 86–89, 98; crossing of, 69; Peruvian, 51, 58–59, 65

  Angulo, Alejandro, 153

  Ani, 49, 168; groove-billed, 13

  Anta, Peru, 69

  Antilles Current, 7, 10

  Ant, 161; army, 165; biting, 165; black, 39, 135, 184; fire, 135; leaf-cutting, 186; stinging, 24; white, 40

  Ants’ nests, 40, 119

  Aracaras, Brazil, 142

  Araguarí River, 21

  Araguaya River, 120, 127–30, 140, 142

  Arara, 131

  Araucanian Indians, 113

  Arawak Indians, 16

  Architecture, modern, 117; South American, 115; Spanish, 62, 64

  Ardiles, Rudi, 181–84, 189–94, 197–98, 206, 211–14, 257, 260

  Argentina, 73, 79–81, 88–89, 97–98

  Argentino, Lake, 89

  Arrayolos furo, 32

  Artifacts, Inca, 114–15, 261; Indian, 91; pre-Inca, 114–15, 153, 261

  Ascensión, a boy, 170–71

  Atacama Desert, 60

  Atalaya, Peru, 56, 151, 154, 225, 227, 242–43

  Auca Indians, 48

  Austel, Otto, 131, 133, 137–39

  Ayahuasca, 262

  Ayesta, Fray Jaime, 211–12, 214, 217

  Aymara Indians, 73

  Ayoré Indians, 149

  Babassu tree, 131

  Bacanique, Peru, 187, 213

  Bahamas, the, 10

  Bahía Blanca, 113

  Bahía Grande, 112

  Bahía Negra, Paraguay, 146

  Balsa rafts, 164, 170, 174, 184, 193, 196, 207, 213

  Balsa tree, 184

  Bananal, Brazil, 138

  Bananas, 43, 125, 185, 214

  Banisteriopsis caapi, 262

  Barbados, 2, 4, 12–13, 18

  Barbasco plant, 48

  Barbet, 230

  Bariloche, Argentina, 85

  Basagoitia, Antonio, 221, 226, 262

  Basurco, Juan, 152, 254

  Bates, H. W., 29, 37, 40, 169, 193n., 251

  Bat, 43, 49, 225, 246–47; vampire, 24, 55

  Beagle Channel, 97, 105

  Beech tree, 92, 102, 109–10

  Belém, Brazil, 4, 21–24, 27, 119, 169

  Belén, Peru, 47

  Benjamin Constant, Brazil, 46

  Bermejo River, 81

  Bermuda, 2–3, 5–7

  Bignonia tree, 33

  Bingham, Hiram, 67, 70

  Birds, 3–7, 12–13, 15–16, 19, 119; of Argentina, 103, 109–10; of Bolivia, 74; of Brazil, 22, 27, 30, 33–36, 39–40, 43–46, 128, 130–132, 134–35, 140–42, 145; of Chile, 83–84, 91, 93–99; of Peru, 49, 53, 58, 61, 66–67, 71, 159, 163, 165, 168, 186, 188, 201, 204, 217–18, 220–21, 224–25, 227–30, 235–36, 245, 252

  Birds of La Plata, Hudson, 39, 228

  Black and Gold, 74

  Black Drunken River, see Yanatili River

  Blackwell, George, 102

  Blacque, Dorry and Ted, 77, 104

  Blue tang, 13

  Boa constrictor, 54

  Bogas, 195, 214–16, 258

  Bolaina tree, 218

  Bolivia, 31, 66, 71–72, 77, 80, 144, 146, 149

  Bolognesi, Peru, 246–47

  Bongoni maelstrom, 196

  Boobies, 18–19; piquero, 61–62; red-footed, 15

  Borora Indians, 143

  Borrachudo, 135

  Branco menor, 140

  Branco River, 193n.

  Brasilia, Brazil, 117–18, 121

  Brasilia-Belém highway, 119

  Brazil, 21, 23, 31, 46, 49, 55, 73–74, 145–47, 193n.; birds of, see Birds; forests of, 38; Indian Service, 137; interior of, 118–20; language of, 143

  Brazilian Adventure, Fleming, 136

  Brazilians, 115, 122, 126

  Brazilwood tree, 134

  Breadfruit tree, 17

  Bridges, Lucas, 101, 105, 108; quoted, 111

  Bridges, Oliver and Betsy, 103–105, 110

  Bridges, Thomas, 105, 108

  Bridges-Reynolds family, 100, 109

  British Guiana, 19

  Bromelia, 159

  Broom, Spanish, 66; yellow, 69

  Brown, John, 202

  Brunswick Peninsula, 94

  Buenos Aires, Argentina, 80–81, 110, 115

  Buenos Aires, Lake, 88–89

  Buenos Aires province, 81

  Bunch grass, 71

  Buriti palm, 141

  Burroughs, William, 262

  Bushmaster, 24, 54

  Butantan, Brazil, snake farm at, 116, 256

  Butterflies, 39, 168, 183–84, 186; helicon, 169; morpho, 49–50, 160, 168, 218, 229

  Button, Jemmy, 92, 105

  Cáceres, Brazil, 143

  Caco, Peru, 250

  Cacti, 69; Yucca, 66, 71

  Cahow, 6–7

  Caicos Islands, 10

  Caihaique, Chile, 87

  Caiman, 24, 37, 47, 53, 144, 146, 219–20, 234

  Calafate plant, 92, 97

  Callao, Peru, 51

  Calomito fruit, 50

  Camisea, Peru, 167, 256

  Camisea River, 219, 263

  Campa Indians, 230

  Campos, Captain Ernesto, 107

  Campos Geraes state, 34

  Campos-Menendez family, 92

  Camungo bird, 44

  Camus, Albert, 127

  Canaries Current, 7

  Candellaria del Gallardo, Señora, 96

  Candiru
, 24, 55

  Cannibalism, 91, 106

  Cannon-ball tree, 44

  Canoes, 131, 134, 150, 169–70, 174, 188, 211, 217, 228

  Canueira Indians, 140

  Canyons, 200

  Caoba tree, 239, 251

  Cape Horn Island, 106–107

  Capybara, 135, 234

  Caracara, 119, 130

  Caraja Indians, 127, 130–34, 136, 138

  Carancho, 103, 109

  Cardiel, Argentina, 89

  Carib Indians, 16

  Caribbean Sea, 15

  Cashibo Indians, 249

  Castelnau, Francis de, 267; quoted, 268

  Castries, Saint Lucia, 17

  Catfish, 227; piraiba, 32

  Catholic Church, 127, 258; see also Dominicans

  Cattle, 83, 119–20, 129, 134, 144, 227

  Cayenne, 21

  Cedro (cedar) tree, 134, 228, 239, 250–51

  Ceiba tree, 30, 33–34

  Céline, quoted, 18

  Centipo Indians, 51

  Century plant, 66, 125

  Cetico tree, 218

  Chama Indians, 249–50, 252

  Chapras Indians, 52

  Charapilla tree, 220

  Charlotte, Fort, 17

  Chesea River, 248

  Chicha, 66–67, 79

  Chico River, 112

  Children, Indian, 65, 71, 76–77, 131, 164

  Chile, 60, 73, 80–84, 88, 97, 113; see also Birds, of Chile

  Chilean Archipelago, 85–86

  Chilean Islands, 109

  Chiloé Channel, 86

  Chiloé Island, 82, 86

  Chimango, 83, 90, 103

  Cholo Indians, 66

  Chonta tree, 241

  Choqueyapu River, 77

  Christmas Day, 1959, 40–43

  Chubut River, 112

  Churches, 114–15

  Cinco Hermanos, 106

  Clam, 110

  Clark, Leonard, 37, 156–57, 210, 267

  Clothing, Indian, 65, 76–77, 139, 189, 195, 248–49

  Coboclo, 29, 34, 36, 40–41, 50

  Coca, 66, 160, 168, 187

  Cochabamba, Bolivia, 73–74, 114

  Coffee, 129, 160, 163, 188–89

  Coimbra, Fort, Brazil, 145–46

  Colbert, Edwin, 268

  Colombia, 26, 46

  Colorado River, 111, 113

  Comodoro Rivadavia province, 112

  Compleat Angler, The, Walton, 9

  Concepción province, 159

  Conibo Indians, 245, 248

  Conquest of Peru, Prescott, 64

  Conservation laws, 37

  Contraband, 21–23

  Cook, Frederick A., 106

  Coot, 67

  Copacabana Beach, 116

  Corcovado, Gulf of, 82, 85

  Corcovado, Mount, 86

  Cordilleras, 59, 83

  Coribene, Peru, 172, 175, 211–12, 260

  Coribene River, 171, 173

  Cormorant, 61–62, 93, 95–96, 107, 110; bigua, 30

  Corumbá, Brazil, 73, 143, 145, 147–148

  Cougar, 91

  Cox, Mrs. Bertha, 156

  Crocodile, 231, 234, 238, 251–52; white, 218, 229, 244

  Crocodilians, 24, 43, 48, 146, 234

  Cruz, César, 56, 151–52, 154–55, 161, 167, 171–73, 175, 205, 207, 210–11, 219, 222–23, 225–27, 230–31, 236–37, 241–44, 247–48, 251–55, 262, 268

  Cuba, 14

  Cuiaba, Brazil, 118, 143

  Culebra chicolillo, 165

  Curlew, eskimo, 91; Hudsonian, 96

  Cushma, 195, 214, 230

  Cuzco, Peru, 62–65, 69, 114, 153–155, 157–58, 162

  Dana, Richard Henry, 90

  Dances, 68, 71, 139

  Dandelions, 92, 97

  Darwin, Charles, 62, 90–92, 105–106; quoted, 86, 91–92, 104, 109, 113

  Darwin, Mount, 98

  Dawson Island, 94

  Deane, Peter, 99

  Deane, Jean and Tony, 116

  Deer, 130, 135, 140, 145, 204

  Demerara River, 19

  Deserts, Andean, 60, 82; Argentine, 89; Bolivian, 149; Patagonian, 112

  Devil’s Island, 21

  Diablotin, Mount, 16, 19

  Diez, Padre Manuel, 222, 224

  Diseases, 24, 105, 109, 153

  Dolphin, 93, 95; Commerson’s, 94; Geoffrey’s, 32, 35, 227; river, 246

  Domingo, Cape, 99

  Dominica, 16

  Dominican Republic, 15

  Dominicans, 171, 209–11, 213–14, 217, 221–22, 258–60

  Dove, 53, 66, 74, 168

  Dragon’s Mouth, 18

  Drunkenness, 57, 67–68, 79, 137–138, 178, 262

  Duck, 67, 93, 98, 130, 145, 204; Antarctic, 110; pintail, 109; sea, 107; “steamboat,” 96

  Duguid, Julian, 148–49

  Ecuador, 26, 48, 60

  Eel, 9; electric, 24, 55

  Ega, Brazil, 37

  Eginereu Teixera, Brazil, 128

  Egret, 30, 43, 49, 130, 132, 140, 145; cattle, 12; snowy, 33; white, 27, 34, 71, 145, 225

  El Encuentro, Peru, 154–55, 159–164, 226

  Emu, 128

  Encuentros, 196, 235, 242

  Equatorial Current, 7

  Estancia José Menendez, 100

  Estancia María Behety, 99–102

  Estancia Viamonte, 100, 104, 109

  Eucalyptus trees, 64–65, 69, 74

  Fagnano, Lake, 103, 107–108, 111

  Falcon, 229

  Falkland Islands, 111

  Fawcett, Colonel P. H., 37, 53, 55, 64, 122, 148; quoted, 31–32, 54, 269

  Fer-de-lance, 24, 54

  Fig tree, 33, 69

  Finch, 53, 168; cardinal, 228

  Fish, 9, 11, 13–14, 17–18, 22, 24, 32, 37, 43, 50, 102, 110, 116, 134, 220, 227, 240

  Fitz Roy, Captain, 92

  Flamingo, 71, 132

  Fleming, Peter, 136

  Flowers, 44, 49, 69–71, 84, 92, 96–97, 145, 159, 184, 204

  Flycatcher, 19, 39, 97, 135, 220

  Flying fish, 5, 9, 15

  Fordlandia, 34

  Forests, 86, 103; Bolivian, 146–47; Brazilian, 129

  Fossil jaw, 56, 150–52, 154, 223, 226–27, 231, 236–38, 248, 252, 254, 260–62, 268–69

  Fox, 101

  Frigate bird, 15, 19

  Frog, 57, 165–66

  Fruit, 50, 53, 108, 164

  Fuegian Indians, 91–92

  Fulmar, giant, 107

  Gallegas River, 112

  Gannet, 15

  Gaviota, sloop, 93–96

  Geese, 99; Caiquen, 101, 109; Magellan rock, 93; upland, 98

  Georgetown, British Guiana, 19

  Germans, 47–48, 83, 95

  Gibbon, Lardner, 267

  Ginsberg, Allen, 262, 269

  Giordia, Padre, 171–72, 175–76, 212

  Glaciers, 86, 103–104

  Glass, George, 128, 130–31, 138–142

  Goiania, Brazil, 118–20, 123, 142

  Goiás state, 117–18, 120–21, 130, 134, 141–42

  Golfo Nuevo, 112

  Golfo San Jorge, 112

  Gonaïves Gulf, 14

  Gonave Island, 14

  Gran Chaco, 81, 146

  Grease Creek, 237

  Great Inagua, 11

  Grebe, 67

  Green Hell, Duguid, 148, 166

  Gregorio, 163, 169

  Gregory, Professor, 210

  Grenada, 16–17

  Grenadine Islands, 17

  Groen, Mr., 12

  Grouper, 13

  Guabo fruit, 50

  Guacamayo, 220

  Guadaloupe, 16

  Guanaco, 89, 102

  Guano, 60–61, 101

  Guan, 181, 218

  Guaqui, Bolivia, 72

  Guaratinga, Brazil, 142

  Guianas, the, 21

  Gulf Stream, 3–5, 7

  Gull, 3–4, 19; Andean, 66; Belcher’s, 61; brown-hooded, 93; Franklin’s, 61; gray, 61; he
rring, 3, 5–6; kelp, 61, 93, 98; laughing, 19; serranita, 71

  Gurupí, Brazil, 140

  Haciendas, 159–60, 165, 173, 175, 188, 193, 207, 221, 225–26, 247, 251

  Haiti, 4, 11, 14

  Hambre River, 107

  Handbook of South American Indians, Herndon, 49

  Happy Days raft, 194, 197, 200–205, 209, 216–17, 266

  Harberton, Argentina, 100

  Hawk, 30, 34, 43, 46, 71, 83, 168, 218, 224, 229; black-breasted, 99; carrion, 98

  Henderson, Jack, 52

  Hermite Islands, 82, 85, 97, 106

  Herndon, Lieutenant William, 267; quoted, 29, 49

  Heron, 12, 43, 145, 224

  Hidden Lake, 107

  Hispaniola, 15

  Hoatzin, 30, 228, 239

  Hocking, Joseph, 53–56

  Horn, Cape, 82, 85, 97

  Hornets, 24, 135; nests of, 40

  Horse Latitudes, 8

  Horses, 102, 113; wild, 89, 98, 109

  Hoste Island, 106

  Hoyle, Rafael Larco, 153

  Huadquina hacienda, 159

  Huallaga River, 55, 169, 200, 212

  Huambisa Indians, 51

  Huayna Picchu, 70

  Hudson, W. H., 39; quoted, 228

  Humboldt Current, 60–61

  Hunting, 133, 234–35

  Ibis, 83, 97, 145

  Iguana, 57

  Illimani, Mount, 73

  Imbauba tree, 33

  Inca, steamer, 72

  Inca flower, 69

  Incas, 62–64, 67, 69, 114, 151

  Indian medicines, 50

  Indian villages, 76, 130–31, 136, 171–73

  Indians, 24, 31, 37, 40, 47, 52, 60, 62, 65–66, 71, 75, 77, 79, 127, 130-31, 133, 136–37, 139–41, 143, 145–46, 149–50, 153, 156, 171–73, 182, 187–89, 193, 195–197, 200–210, 214, 216–19, 221–222, 227–28, 230, 245, 248–50, 252, 257–60, 262, 268; ferocity of, 48, 91–92; horse, 113; hostile, 51, 56, 74, 105–106, 140–41, 157, 210, 235, 239–40, 263; killing of, 137; treachery of, 108

  Inias, 32, 35, 227

  Insects, 24, 55, 135, 144, 168, 220, 247, 251

  Inuya River, 56, 151, 154, 227–28, 235

  Ipé tree, 119, 141

  Iquitos, Peru, 21, 31, 46–47, 52

  Isla Bananal, 129–30

  Isla de Lobos, 116

  Islands, 60–61, 82, 85–86, 106–107, 111, 113, 142

  Jabiru, 130

  Jacaranda tree, 119

  Jacare, 146

  Jacoba tree, 134

  Jaegers, 4, 15; pomarine, 5, 11

  Jaguars, 24, 55, 135, 144, 160, 165

  Jararaca, 24, 54

  Jariuba Point, 32

  Javahe Indians, 130, 133, 140–41

  Javarí River, 46

  Jawbone, see Fossil jaw

  Jay, 221

  Jivaro Indians, 48, 50–51

  Jolly, Stratford, 155–56, 267; quoted, 191, 199

 

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