Preserves

by Pam Corbin

  The fruit and veg chopping is reasonably time-consuming, but important. Whizzing everything up in a food processor would give a very different, sloppy-textured result. From start to finish, the chutney takes about 4 hours to make.

  Makes 10–11 x 340g jars

  1kg marrows or overgrown courgettes, peeled (if using marrows) and diced

  1kg green tomatoes or tomatilloes, peeled and diced

  500g cooking apples, peeled, cored and diced

  500g onions, peeled and diced

  500g sultanas

  500g light soft brown sugar

  600ml cider vinegar or white wine vinegar

  2 tsp dried chilli flakes (optional)

  Pinch of salt

  For the spice bag

  50g fresh root ginger, bruised

  12 cloves

  2 tsp black peppercorns

  1 tsp coriander seeds

  Make your spice bag by tying up the spices in a 20cm square of muslin. Put this into a preserving pan with all the other ingredients and bring slowly to the boil, stirring occasionally. This will take a while as there will be lots in the pan, but don’t hurry it.

  Let the mixture simmer, uncovered, for 2½–3 hours – maybe even a bit more. You do not have to hover, hawk-eyed, over the pan, but do keep an eye on it and stir regularly to ensure it doesn’t burn. It’s ready when it is glossy, thick, rich in colour and well reduced – but with the chunks of fruit and veg still clearly discernible. It is thick enough if, when you draw a wooden spoon through it, the chutney parts to reveal the base of the pan for a few seconds.

  Pot the chutney while warm in sterilised jars. Pack down with the back of a spoon to remove any air pockets. Seal with vinegar-proof lids. Store in a cool, dark place and leave for a couple of months to mature before using. Use within 2 years.

  Variations

  For each, use 500g light soft brown sugar, 600ml cider vinegar or white wine vinegar, a pinch of salt and 2 tsp dried chilli flakes (if liked); follow the basic method (left).

  Gingered rhubarb and fig (spring)

  1.5kg rhubarb, trimmed and chopped

  1kg cooking apples, peeled, cored and diced

  500g onions, peeled and diced

  300g dried figs, chopped and soaked overnight in the juice of 3 large oranges with the grated zest of 2

  100g crystallised ginger, chopped

  For the spice bag

  2 tsp mustard seeds

  2 tsp black peppercorns

  50g fresh root ginger, bruised

  Plum and pear (late summer)

  1kg plums, quartered and stoned

  750g pears, peeled, cored and diced

  750g cooking apples, peeled, cored and diced

  500g shallots, peeled and diced

  250g stoned prunes, roughly chopped

  For the spice bag

  50g fresh root ginger, bruised

  2 tsp mustard seeds

  2 tsp black peppercorns

  Apricot and date (late summer)

  500g unsulphured dried apricots, chopped, soaked overnight, drained

  1kg marrow or courgettes, diced

  500g cooking apples, peeled, cored and diced

  500g onions, peeled and diced

  250g stoned dates, chopped

  250g raisins

  For the spice bag

  50g fresh root ginger, bruised

  1 tsp cloves

  1 tsp cumin seeds

  1 tsp coriander seeds

  2 tsp black peppercorns

  Pumpkin and quince (early autumn)

  1kg peeled, deseeded pumpkin, diced

  1kg quince, peeled, cored and diced

  500g cooking apples, peeled, cored and diced

  500g red onions, peeled and diced

  500g raisins

  50g freshly grated horseradish root

  For the spice bag

  2 tsp peppercorns

  12 cloves

  2 cinnamon sticks

  Nasturtium ‘capers’

  Season: late July to September

  After the vibrant trumpets of nasturtium flowers fade, you’ll find underneath the foliage the knobbly green seed pods of the plant. They have a hot, peppery flavour and, when pickled, develop a taste very similar to that of true capers (the pickled flowerbuds of the Mediterranean Capparis plant). Collect the seed pods on a warm, dry day when all the flowers have wilted away. Gather only the green ones (sometimes they are red-blushed) and avoid any that are yellowing, as these will be dull and dry. The pods can also be used fresh to spice up salads, or as an ingredient in piccalilli.

  These feisty little pickled nasturtium seed pods are great in fish dishes and in herby, garlicky sauces. Try them in tartare sauce, or add to salads, especially with tomatoes. In fact, use them just as you would capers.

  Makes 2 x 115g jars

  15g salt

  100g nasturtium seed pods

  A few peppercorns (optional)

  Herbs, such as dill or tarragon sprigs, or bay leaves (optional)

  200ml white wine vinegar

  Make a light brine by dissolving the salt in 300ml water. Put the nasturtium seed pods into a bowl and cover with the cold brine. Leave for 24 hours.

  Drain the seed pods and dry well. Pack them into small, sterilised jars with, if you like, a few peppercorns and herbs of your choice. Leave room for 1cm of vinegar at the top. Cover the pods with vinegar and seal the jars with vinegar-proof lids. Store in a cool, dark place and leave for a few weeks before eating. Use within a year.

  P.S. To make nasturtium tartare sauce, simply mix 100g mayonnaise with 2–3 finely chopped spring onions or 30g finely chopped white part of a leek, 1 tbsp coarsely chopped nasturtium capers, 1 heaped tbsp finely chopped parsley, a squeeze of lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve the sauce with simple grilled or fried white fish, hot or cold salmon or trout, or a salad of freshly cooked baby beetroot, young broad beans and rocket or other leaves.

  Nasturtium ‘capers’

  Sweet cucumber pickle

  Season: July to September

  This is a wonderful way to use up an abundance of cucumbers, be they long and uniform green, or the short, knobbly-skinned ridge type. It’s also very quick and easy to make if you use a food processor. This is not a true preserve, as the cucumbers are not brined and the pickle is very light, but it will keep well in the fridge for a couple of weeks in a sealed container.

  I love this sweet condiment with all manner of salads, and in sandwiches, but it’s especially delectable with hot-smoked trout or salmon.

  Makes 2 x 450g jars

  1kg cucumbers

  3 small onions, red or white

  1 tbsp chopped dill (optional)

  250g granulated sugar

  1 level tbsp salt

  200ml cider vinegar

  Using the slicing blade of a food processor or a very sharp knife, very finely slice the cucumbers. Peel the onions and slice them very thinly too. Combine the cucumber, onion and dill, if using, in a large bowl.

  Mix the sugar, salt and vinegar and pour over the cucumber and onion. Leave overnight for the sweet and sour flavours to mix and mingle or, if this isn’t possible, leave for at least 3 hours before serving. Pack into a large airtight container or wide-necked jam jars. Store in the fridge and use within 2 weeks.

  Variation

  Creamy-white English winter celery makes a lovely sweet pickle, or you can use the more common green celery. Follow the recipe above, replacing the cucumber with 1kg celery. Run a potato peeler lightly down the stalks to remove any tough ribs, then cut into 6–7cm sticks (for crudités or dips) or chop into 1–2cm chunks. Use sweet, mild red onions and season the pickle with celery salt and 1 tsp caraway seeds. As celery does not contain as much water as cucumber, add 200ml water to the vinegar and sugar mixture.

  Piccalilli

  Season: August

  This traditional sweet vegetable pickle, Indian in origin, is the ultimate August preserve for me. The time to make it is when
garden produce is at its peak and there is ample to spare. You can use almost any vegetable in the mix but make sure you include plenty of things which are green and crisp. The secret of a really successful piccalilli is to use very fresh vegetables and to take the time to cut them into small, similar-sized pieces.

  The recipe first treats the vegetables to a dry-brining, which helps to keep them really firm and crunchy, then bathes them in a smooth, hot mustard sauce.

  Makes 3 x 340g jars

  1kg washed, peeled vegetables – select 5 or 6 from the following: cauliflower or romanesco cauliflower; green beans; cucumbers; courgettes; green or yellow tomatoes; tomatilloes; carrots; small silver-skinned onions or shallots; peppers; nasturtium seed pods

  50g fine salt

  30g cornflour

  10g ground turmeric

  10g English mustard powder

  15g yellow mustard seeds

  1 tsp crushed cumin seeds

  1 tsp crushed coriander seeds

  600ml cider vinegar

  150g granulated sugar

  50g honey

  Cut the vegetables into small, even bite-sized pieces. Place in a large bowl and sprinkle with the salt. Mix well, cover the bowl with a tea towel and leave in a cool place for 24 hours, then rinse the veg with ice-cold water and drain thoroughly.

  Blend the cornflour, turmeric, mustard powder, mustard seeds, cumin and coriander to a smooth paste with a little of the vinegar. Put the rest of the vinegar into a saucepan with the sugar and honey and bring to the boil. Pour a little of the hot vinegar over the blended spice paste, stir well and return to the pan. Bring gently to the boil. Boil for 3–4 minutes to allow the spices to release their flavours into the thickening sauce.

  Remove the pan from the heat and carefully fold the well-drained vegetables into the hot, spicy sauce. Pack the pickle into warm, sterilised jars and seal immediately with vinegar-proof lids. Leave (if you can) for 4–6 weeks before opening. Use within a year.

  Runner bean pickle

  Season: August to September

  Runner beans are a bit of a love-or-hate vegetable and are often scorned in favour of other green beans. I do sympathise with those that don’t eat them – we’ve all been served rubbery, greying old runners at some time or another and they’re no fun at all. However, young tender green runner beans are altogether different and this recipe is just perfect for these guys. It has been eaten and enjoyed by just about everyone who has walked into my kitchen, so I hope that reproducing it here will convert a few more bean-haters.

  I see the pickled beans as a preserved vegetable rather than a mere tracklement, and I think they’re great alongside cold meats and salads.

  Use a couple of jars that are at least 12cm high – taller, if possible – so that the beans can show off their length.

  Makes 2 x 450g jars

  1kg young runner beans

  Salt

  300ml cider vinegar or white wine vinegar

  300g granulated sugar

  1 tsp ground allspice

  1 tsp coarsely ground black pepper

  6 juniper berries (optional)

  Start by trimming the ends off the runner beans. If the beans are young and tender, there should be no need to string them. Cut the beans into lengths about 5mm less than the height of the jar you are using.

  Bring a pan of lightly salted water to the boil. Add the beans and cook until tender; this should take 5–8 minutes.

  Meanwhile, put the vinegar, sugar, 100ml water, allspice, ground pepper and juniper berries, if using, into a pan over a low heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil and boil for a couple of minutes. Drain the runner beans, add them immediately to the spiced vinegar and simmer for 4–5 minutes. Strain the vinegar mixture into a small saucepan.

  Pack the beans, upright, into warm, sterilised jars; kitchen tongs and a knife are useful for doing this. Return the spiced vinegar to the boil then pour it over the tightly packed beans. Cap immediately with vinegar-proof lids.

  Store in a cool, dark place and leave for several weeks to allow the pickle to mature. Use within 12 months.

  Sweet pickled damsons

  Season: late August to September

  Dark-skinned, with a bluish bloom, small oval damsons are very tart and well flavoured, which makes them wonderful for preserving. This is a straightforward recipe that keeps the fruit whole and tender. I love warming cinnamon and allspice in the mix, but you can use any spices you fancy, or even a good tablespoonful of ready-made pickling spice. These sweet spiced damsons are a lovely addition to any buffet table and splendid with cold poultry.

  Makes 4 x 450g jars

  600ml cider vinegar

  5cm piece cinnamon stick

  1 tsp allspice berries

  Finely grated zest and juice of 1 orange

  1kg firm, ripe damsons

  750g granulated sugar

  Put the vinegar, cinnamon, allspice berries, orange zest and juice into a pan and bring to the boil. Boil for 4–5 minutes then strain and allow to cool.

  Prick each damson with a needle or skewer (this will prevent them splitting). Add the fruit to the cold spiced vinegar in a clean pan. Bring slowly to simmering point, then simmer very, very gently for 10–15 minutes until the damsons are just tender. Using a slotted spoon, lift out the damsons and pack them into warm, sterilised jars.

  Return the spiced vinegar to the heat, add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Boil for several minutes to reduce and thicken. Pour this hot spiced syrup over the damsons and seal immediately with vinegar-proof lids. Store in a cool, dark place. These pickled damsons are best kept for 6–8 weeks before eating.

  Variations

  You can use the same method to pickle firm green gooseberries or cherries. Rhubarb, cut into 5cm chunks, can also be dealt with in this way – but add the sugar with the rhubarb as it will help keep it whole.

  Spiced pickled pears

  Season: August to December

  I love pickled fruits and always look forward to opening a jar to serve with cold poultry and ham. Small, hard pears such as ‘Conference’ are ideal for use in this recipe, and it’s a very good way to deal with a barrel-load of them. If you stick with the basic quantities of sugar and vinegar, this recipe can easily be adapted for use with other fruits and different spices (see the variations below).

  Makes 2 x 680g jars

  300ml cider vinegar or white wine vinegar

  400g granulated sugar

  25g fresh root ginger, bruised

  5cm piece cinnamon stick

  1 tsp allspice berries

  1kg small, firm pears

  1 tsp cloves

  Put the vinegar, sugar, ginger, cinnamon and allspice berries into a large pan over a low heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved, then bring to the boil. Turn down the heat to a simmer.

  Meanwhile, start peeling the pears, keeping them whole and with stalks attached. Stud each pear with 2 or 3 cloves and add to the hot vinegar. Simmer the pears very gently until they are tender but not too soft. Remove with a slotted spoon and pack them into warm, sterilised jars.

  Bring the spiced vinegar syrup to the boil and boil for 5 minutes, then strain it over the pears. Cover the jars with vinegar-proof lids. Keep for at least a month before using. Consume within a year.

  Variations

  Different spices can be used – try cardamom and coriander, with a flake or two of dried chilli.

  Pickled peaches Plunge 1kg peaches into a pan of boiling water for 1 minute, then remove. Immerse them in cold water briefly, then peel. Proceed as for the pear recipe, but simmer the peaches for only 3–4 minutes.

  Pickled crab apples Prick 1kg crab apples all over with a needle or skewer (this will prevent the skins bursting). Use well-coloured ornamental varieties such as ‘Harry Baker’, ‘John Downie’ or ‘Pink Glow’.

  Pickled onions

  Season: September to November

  A good pickled onion is perhaps the doyen of the pres
erves cupboard – but how do you like yours? Crisp or soft, sweet or sour, mildly spiced or chilli hot? The beauty of this recipe is that it can be used to make your onions (or shallots) just the way you like them. I like mine sweet, so use honey in this recipe, but you could dispense with honey or sugar altogether if you like a really sharp pickle. I also go for cider vinegar, rather than the more traditional malt, because the flavour is less aggressive. The blend of spices used here suits me nicely, but you could also use coriander, cumin or celery seeds – or any other spice you fancy. If you want crisp onions, use cold vinegar; if you like them soft, heat the vinegar first.

  Makes 1 x 900g jar

  1kg small pickling onions

  50g fine salt

  600ml vinegar (cider, malt or wine)

  150g honey or sugar

  15g fresh root ginger, lightly bruised

  2 tsp allspice berries

  2–3 mace blades

  2 tsp mustard seeds

  1 tsp black or white peppercorns

  1 cinnamon stick

  2 dried chillies (optional)

  2 bay leaves

  Using scissors, snip the top and the rooty bottom off the onions. Place in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Count steadily to 20 (no more). Drain the onions and plunge into cold water. You will then find the skins will peel off easily.

  Put the peeled onions into a shallow dish. Sprinkle with the salt, cover and leave overnight. Meanwhile, pour the vinegar into a pan and add the honey or sugar, ginger and spices (not the bay leaves). Cover and bring to boiling point. Remove from the heat and leave to infuse overnight.

  Strain the spiced vinegar. Rinse the onions in very cold water, then drain and pack into a sterilised jar, adding the bay leaves as you go. Pour over the vinegar (reheating it first, if you want softer onions) and seal with a vinegar-proof lid. Mature for 6–8 weeks before using. Use within 12 months.

  Variation

  Use shallots instead of onions and 300ml each red wine vinegar and white wine vinegar. Prepare as above, then pack the shallots into the jar along with 25g sliced fresh root ginger, 1 tsp coriander seeds and a couple of fresh mint sprigs.

  Pickled onions