Wellington Against Massena

by David Buttery

  The motorway continues past Setúbal and Évora and changes name several times as it progresses. By the time it reaches the fortress town of Elvas it has become the A6-IP7 E90. Choose any of junctions 9 to 12 to leave the motorway and drive down to Elvas. Elvas is largely unspoilt and its bastions and gatehouse are built on an impressive scale. Some of the surrounding hills show signs of supporting fortifications, with straight lines and levelled areas at their summits, though most have a few modern houses built upon them. The town is extremely photogenic, although, from a historian’s point of view, it is disappointing that no major incidents occurred here during the Peninsular War, as it was never besieged.

  Rejoining the motorway, the drive into Spain towards Badajoz, constructed to counter Elvas, is easier now there are no longer customs controls to contend with. Badajoz is the ideal place for booking the second hotel on this trip, but if you wish to visit the battlefield of Albuera it is advisable to drive straight through and leave sightseeing until your return if you plan to do it in a day.

  The town of La Albuera is south-east of Badajoz and simple to find by following the N432 out of the city. There are few identifying features for this battlefield and it is intriguing to speculate about why Beresford chose to fight in this area. There is a small monument to the slain that is worth a visit. The area itself is fairly open, with sloping ground rather than clearly defined hills and ridges, and it is easy to see why the French superiority in cavalry was such an advantage during this controversial action. There are two nearly identical monuments in the village of La Albuera at either end of the main street. Both have colour depictions of Spanish, Portuguese, British and French soldiers and they are worth stopping for. Interestingly, they both include a quotation from Lord Byron’s poem about Albuera in each relevant language.

  Retracing the route back to Badajoz it is possible to undertake a brief inspection of its defences, though you have to be economical with the time in Elvas and Albuera in order to do so in just one day. Entering the old city, the best course is to walk the entire circumference of the defences, starting at the castle. Badajoz was built on a vast scale, but the fortifications are neither as complete nor as photogenic as its rival across the border. The city is expanding and many structures have been demolished for improved road access, though all of the main bastions remain. The castle walls are largely intact and efforts are being made to reconstruct various areas on the town side of the structure. The walls Picton’s men attempted to scale with ladders in the siege of 1812 are still intact and well preserved. Badajoz was besieged several times during the war and its possession was considered vital strategically. Sadly it is the least photogenic of the border fortresses due to modern development.

  FUENTES DE ONORO AND CIUDAD RODRIGO – SPAIN

  As a general rule, Spain is far better for road signs than Portugal, although you have to keep your wits about you as you may get only a single warning for some exits. Follow the EX100 out of Badajoz and, changing to the N630, skirt around Cáceres heading north. There are several medieval castles on the route to Ciudad Rodrigo, but it is inadvisable to stop unless you have planned for this in your itinerary. It is important to be highly selective with so many interesting sites separated by considerable distances. Just after the River Tajo and the major lake it flows into, turn on to the EX109 going past Coria and Moraleja. Heading towards Ciudad Rodrigo, the road changes into the CL526 and the town should be found with no difficulty. Depending on time constraints it may be wise to visit Fuentes de Oñoro before Ciudad Rodrigo. Again the fortress town is ideally placed for booking a hotel.

  Be warned that there are two places called Fuentes de Oñro, the old village being the one of historical interest. They are separated by about half a mile. Driving along the N620 E80 you will see the old village on your left before entering into the new village which is right on the Portuguese border. There is a turning into the old village on a bend, which will save enormous time but is not signposted and is consequently easy to miss. It may be difficult to turn into considering the speed and level of traffic here. If you fail to see this turning, the new village centre is easy to find, being on the main road and surrounded by a cluster of souvenir shops. It is just before the old border station, which is now inactive. It is possible to turn left and then proceed parallel with the route you came along and find the village by instinct using country lanes. Alternatively, you can retrace your route and search for the turning again.

  The streets of old Fuentes are very narrow and winding, making it easy to see how French units strayed and found themselves trapped in dead ends during the bitter street fighting. Depending on the season, the stream of Dos Casas may well be completely dry, except for the odd stagnant pool here and there. The streambed makes a useful reference point and it can be followed to the old footbridge, which marks the centre and the point of many of the French attacks. The road here winds uphill towards the church, which approximately marks the centre of the British line that the French came so near to breaking. The churchyard no longer exists and there is a newer graveyard on the east bank of the Dos Casas, where the French would have deployed. A small memorial stands near the church and just above this location is the vantage point that Wellington used as a command post for much of the battle.

  Retracing the route back to Ciudad Rodrigo, the city is impressive from a distance. Ciudad is smaller than Badajoz, but saw many sieges, its possession being vital for the French invasion of Portugal and the later British incursion into Spain. The glacis and the double lines of ditches still exist virtually unchanged and it is possible to walk the entire circuit of the walls in an hour or two. The bastions are in better condition than those at Badajoz and are constructed using better quality stone. The cathedral tower is a dominant feature and still bears the marks of cannon fire. Though the breaches that the British pounded into the defences in 1812 were repaired by Wellington, a plaque marks the approximate spot where General Craufurd was killed in the storming and can be found on the reverse side of the fortress wall near the cathedral. The bridge across the River Agueda still exists and the city is very beautiful, making it easy to see why Ciudad Rodrigo attracts so many tourists. The Hotel Paradores in the castle itself is recommended both for its facilities and the marvellous view over the river and city. Of all the frontier fortresses, Ciudad Rodrigo is the most impressive visually and is very photogenic. Try to spend a second day here if possible.

  OUTLYING VILLAGES FOR FUENTES – SPAIN AND PORTUGAL, ALMEIDA – PORTUGAL

  Driving back through Fuentes de Oñoro you can visit the villages of Poço Velho and Nave de Haver on the British right flank. Follow the N332 south along the border and though Nave de Haver appears in road atlases, Poço Velho is too small for most maps. Luckily both are well signposted and easy to find. The battle was very much a border incident and this area of the field is mostly in Portugal. The small church in Pogo Velho is worth a photograph, along with the general lie of the land around both villages, but the houses are fairly modern and little exists from the time of the battle. It is easy to see how the French superiority in cavalry proved so decisive on this flank due to the open nature of the landscape here. A visit to Freneda, which marks the furthest extent of the British withdrawal, is worthwhile since an old house next to the church is where Wellington reputedly stayed before the battle. There is a plaque on the wall proclaiming this fact. The land also changes along the route of the British retreat. There are plenty of rocky outcrops where riflemen stationed themselves during the fighting withdrawal and the land becomes progressively more rugged, beginning to slope upwards. The French cavalry would still have been able to press the retreat, but their use would not have been quite so effective here and you can easily understand why they kept pausing to wait for infantry support.

  Turning back, head north along the N332 and drive directly to the old fortress town of Almeida. Finding the town should be no problem, but although the town is built on a slight eminence, it is set far lower down than the other fortr
esses. This was by design, since its lower silhouette presented a harder target to besieging artillery. The defences are virtually complete and their appearance benefits from the red and yellow lichen on the dressed stonework. The gateways are impressive and the main entrance contains the local tourist office, which provides good maps of the fortress. It is the smallest of the frontier strongholds and walking the entire circumference of the structure should not take much more than an hour. The ruins of the castle near where the disaster occurred in 1810 are easily found and testify to the power of the monstrous explosion.

  Take the N340 out of Almeida towards the Côa, where Craufurd fought his controversial action against Ney’s vanguard. A modern road bridge now spans the gorge, but fortunately the Portuguese road builders decided to retain the old bridge underneath the structure. However, the positioning of the new bridge means that from most angles the old bridge cannot be seen from the road. It is possible to park on the road above and walk down to the river. Examining the Côa at this point you realise how difficult an obstacle it presented to an army, making possession of this bridge particularly vital. The old bridge has a very pleasant aspect, quite out of keeping with the terrible slaughter that took place around it. A stone monument and a cross stand in the centre of the bridge and on the western bank. Its three-point span would have handicapped a direct charge across it and it is easy to imagine British and Portuguese sharpshooters firing down from the steep banks of the gorge above it.

  Continuing on into central Portugal, the journey to Coimbra is relatively easy along the N324 and then the A25-IP5. Joining the E80, which skirts around Guarda, be aware that you may only get one warning for motorway exits and that you are suddenly offered a choice between a northern and southern route. The northern route is the one required for Busaço and Coimbra. Depending on how much time you have spent touring the sites it is probably best to leave an examination of the battlefield until the next day.

  BUSAÇO – PORTUGAL

  If approaching the battlefield from Coimbra, take the IC2 and then the N1 northwards. You need to drive through the park and the grounds of the Busaço Palace Hotel in order to get to the battlefield, and the museum here is excellent. The Portuguese Army runs this museum and many of the exhibits were picked up from the battlefield itself. A small but useful map of Busaço Ridge is provided on their leaflets. The long ridge, though layered, is incredibly steep and this cannot be truly appreciated until you actually stand on the ground itself. Unfortunately, the area is now heavily wooded, which was not the case in 1810, and this obscures much of the field. Nevertheless, it is impossible not to marvel at the courage and determination of the Frenchmen who toiled up the slopes to face a prepared enemy. Likewise, it is difficult to understand why Massena failed to try a flanking move as soon as he saw this formidable natural obstacle in his path.

  The commemorative obelisk is easy to find, signposts directing you straight from the museum. It is an impressive monument to the fallen and the posts of the encircling fence are in fact small cannon barrels sunk into the ground. Behind the obelisk the convent wall that was incorporated into the Allied defence still exists, though you may encounter some trouble finding Wellington’s command post without the museum leaflet. This lies at the end of a very narrow forest track only just wide enough for a vehicle. It is worth the effort for the stone plaque, but forestry almost completely conceals the view Wellington would have had from this point.

  Heading downhill from the obelisk, Craufurd’s command post near the village of Sula can be viewed from the road by the old windmill marking the spot. The cluster of rocks that Craufurd stationed himself behind is marked with a plaque and is slightly more photogenic than Wellington’s command post, since this place is not so heavily wooded. Sadly the road that led to the point of Reynier’s attack no longer exists and extensive woods and lack of footpaths suggest that it would be difficult to pinpoint accurately and not worth the effort to seek out. However, it is worth driving into the valley to observe the ridge from the road where Ney deployed his VI Corps. The area where VI Corps attacked is obvious, but determining the point of Reynier’s assault is more of a challenge.

  Returning to Coimbra, the next destination is the battlefield of Roliça, one of Wellington’s earliest battles in the Peninsula. Travelling along the A1-IP1 motorway, it is advisable to change to the IC2 at junction 10 near Pombal in order to avoid driving through Leira, where several road changes would be required. You then join the A8-IC1 and head towards Nazaré on the Portuguese coast. Driving past Caldas da Rainha and the impressive medieval castle at Obidos, be prepared to leave the motorway at junction 13.

  Roliça is impressive, with a high observation platform marked with a cross on top of an extremely steep hillside. From the point of view of the British it is easy to see how an assault would have been difficult, even when using the gullies to the left of the gorge you are likely to drive through. The gorge is very obvious, being flanked by two large jutting hills, and you drive onward to the small village of Columbeira, which is unlikely to appear on many maps. Go past the old church and uphill along the farm tracks, where brown signs direct you to the viewpoints of this popular beauty spot. The area is studded with windmills and planted with numerous vineyards and orchards. Once you have located the viewing point with the cross, work your way along the tracks to its right and you should come across the iron-fenced gravestone of Colonel Lake. Lake had pressed forward up the gully at the head of the 29th Regiment, encountering overwhelming numbers and taking fire from both flanks. You understand how this occurred when you see the nature of the ground; the strength of Delaborde’s skilfully chosen position becoming immediately apparent. He had left himself an easy line of retreat and you can imagine Wellington being dismayed afterwards following Delaborde’s masterful performance. Luckily for the British, not all his French opponents would fight so well.

  The battlefield of Vimiero is also close by and after rejoining the motorway can be found by leaving at exit 10 and heading towards the village of Campelos. However, bearing in mind the length of this journey it may be preferable to drive straight back to Lisbon via the A8 and attempt it on another day if you want enough light for decent photographs. Throughout this kind of journey it is wise to be ruthless about your priorities and, if in doubt, leave sites for another time. Remember that these routes involve considerable distances and that drivers are likely to have had enough by the end of the afternoon.

  THE LINES OF TORRES VEDRAS – PORTUGAL

  If staying in Lisbon itself, set out as early as possible to avoid the heavy traffic and follow the coastal road westwards past the enormous city road-bridge. The road is signposted for the town of Cascais and if you keep the ocean in sight on your left it is unlikely that you will stray from the route. There are several old military bases and fort-like structures along the coast, but the fort in question is the São Julião, which will appear on your left just as you reach Oeiras. The fort was protected by a string of small batteries and redoubts, though little evidence of them remains. This was intended as the embarkation point for the British Army if they were forced to abandon Lisbon, and several jetties used to extend from the beach under cover of the fort’s guns. The fort itself is worth photographing, but bear in mind that it is still an active army base and if you approach it too closely the military police may take exception.

  Just before Cascais, turn north towards Sintra and on to the town of Mafra. Mafra contains an impressive convent built on a palatial scale, which is truly magnificent and difficult to miss in the centre. During the first invasion of 1807, General Junot used this appealing building as his headquarters and it is easy to see why. Next to the convent stands a modern war memorial depicting three Portuguese soldiers from medieval, Napoleonic and twentieth-century wars. There are plaques naming a variety of campaigns and battles, along with some of the regiments involved. It is unusual and worth closer scrutiny.

  Leaving the N116 after Sintra, travel by minor roads through the villages of M
urgeira and Gradil. This area is part of the second line of defences in the lines of Torres Vedras. Scanning the surrounding hillsides and peaks, you see levelled areas and altered hill scarps, but few fortifications are obvious here. The Royal Park of Tapada contains the remains of four redoubts and the large wall skirting the park was used as part of the defences. Continuing along minor roads heading for Sobral, the route should take you under the motorway and on to join the N374 and subsequently the N115 into the town. The Great Redoubt stood on Monte Agraço to the east of Sobral, which is sign-posted ‘Forte de Alqueidão’. Its remains are impressive but it is difficult to find. The Portuguese have made great efforts to preserve this structure, its walls and ditch being well maintained.

  The small village of Pero Negro, where Wellington kept his headquarters during the siege period, is easier to find, being posted and marked on most maps, unlike the Great Redoubt. If you turn left just before the railway station and the small level crossing, you should discover Wellington’s house, which is marked with a plaque and currently used as a schoolhouse. Every morning Wellington would ride from the property to survey the lines and receive reports on enemy movements.

  Take the N248 north-west from Sobral to find the old town of Torres Vedras. The town is dominated by the old Moorish castle, included in the lines as fort number twenty-seven. It is worth navigating the tiny streets uphill to the castle, which provides a good view of the surrounding area. A relatively short way out of town is fort Sao Vicente, which has been restored to something approaching its former glory. It contains earth traverses, some of which were later faced with stone, revetted banquettes for infantry and strategically placed gun embrasures.