Chronicles of Old Los Angeles

by James Roman

  1. Start at the corner of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street. This is where the Walk of Fame begins, extending for many blocks to the east and west across Hollywood Blvd. and north-south on Vine Street. This corner is dedicated to real out-of-this-world stars— the first American astronauts to land on the moon, who also accomplished one of the most significant feats in the history of television.

  Stay in the right lane; head north on Vine Street.

  2. Across Vine Street, on the left (west), notice Avalon (1735 Vine Street), a dance club today, but known for decades as the Palace Theater. Built in 1927 for live radio broadcasts, it was converted to a television studio for the Jerry Lewis Show, then Live from the Hollywood Palace, the Sammy Davis Jr. Show, and many more. It was here that Richard Nixon aired his infamous “Checkers” speech.

  3. On the right, you’ll pass the Capitol Records Building, resembling a stack of vinyl records on a spindle. The biggest stars in the music industry continue to record in its underground studios. Artists who recorded here include Frank Sinatra, the Foo Fighters, The Beatles, The Beach Boys, Nat King Cole, Duran Duran, Aretha Franklin and many, many more.

  Continue north to the intersection. Turn right onto Franklin Avenue and navigate into the center lane.

  4. Head east on Franklin Avenue, passing the Hollywood Tower Apartments on the right. Built by actor George Raft in 1929, it’s now a National Landmark, and home to decades of entertainment luminaries. Brazilian actress Carmen Miranda, famous for introducing the samba and her “tutti-frutti hat” to the world, was married here in 1947.

  5. Continuing east, navigate into the left-turning lane; prepare to turn left at Beechwood Drive. With a left turn onto Beechwood Drive, the famous Hollywood sign comes into view. Continue north toward the sign. Drive north on Beechwood Drive for approximately one mile to the stone gates that mark the entrance to Hollywoodland.

  6. Turn right, just past the eastern tower, to view the original Hollywoodland Realty office on the left (north; officially 2700 Beechwood Drive), where the original tracts were sold.

  7. Pass the realty office, and turn left onto Woodhaven Drive for a view of some original Hollywoodland houses. Though not protected as landmarks, it’s easy to spot the original houses that first comprised this enclave. At the intersection of Beechwood Drive, turn right and continue up the hill for approximately 3/4 mile. Continue on Beechwood Drive (past the billboard for the Sunset Ranch), then park on the dirt shoulder. The tour continues on foot, with a visit to the famous Hollywood sign. Note that the park closes at sunset.

  The road to the Hollywood sign is a broad and well-maintained dirt path (fire road). Proceed up the hill—a visit up the hill for a photo of the Hollywood sign and then back down takes about a half hour.

  For hikers, there are multiple paths that wind through the canyon and provide some extraordinary views of Hollywood, Griffith Park, the Observatory and Downtown LA.

  After capturing your photos, return to the car. The tour continues on wheels through historic Hollywoodland. Drive back down the hill on Beechwood Drive for ¼ mile to Rodgerton Drive. Bear right onto Rodgerton Drive for a view of Hollywoodland and one of its historic stone walls.

  8. Travel about 1/5 mile on Rodgerton Drive, then park on the right shoulder briefly for a glimpse of the historic houses built into the canyon cliffs.

  Travel about 1/10 mile farther on Rodgerton Drive to a long, curving stone wall created by European stonemasons in the 1920s. It has supported houses on the street above for 100 years. Continue on Rodgerton’s circuitous route heading downhill. Another 1/5 mile is the intersection of Rodgerton, Ledgewood and Deronda drives. Make a sharp left onto Ledgewood Drive and down the steep hill.

  Enjoy the scenery on Ledgewood Drive as you continue downhill for approximately 1/4 mile to the intersection of Beechwood Drive. Turn right onto Beechwood Drive to exit from Hollywoodland, heading south.

  Stay in the right lane.

  At the intersection of Franklin Boulevard and Beechwood Drive, turn right onto Franklin Blvd., then immediately navigate into the left-turning lane at the Gower Street traffic light. Make a left turn onto Gower Street, continuing south.

  9. Continue down the hill to Sunset Boulevard. At the corner of Gower Street and Sunset Boulevard, turn left onto Sunset Boulevard. On the right, you’ll pass Sunset-Gower Studios, famous for most of the twentieth century as Columbia Pictures.

  As Columbia Pictures, this comparatively small studio generated some of Hollywood’s most enduring hits, including Mr. Smith Goes To Washington, Golden Boy, Suddenly Last Summer, Dr. Strangelove, Bye Bye Birdie, Lost Horizon, Funny Girl, Tootsie and many more. As Sunset-Gower Studios, it’s been home to television hits including The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air, Saved By The Bell, The Golden Girls, That’s So Raven, Six Feet Under, Dexter and many more. General Hospital was filmed here for 24 years. Sunset-Gower Studios is not open to the public.

  10. Continue east to the corner of Gordon Street. Turn right onto Gordon Street, then continue south to Santa Monica Boulevard. At the intersection of Gordon Street and Santa Monica Boulevard, continue straight ahead into the driveway for the Hollywood Forever Cemetery.

  The final resting place for some of the biggest names in the entertainment industry, Hollywood Forever Cemetery first opened in 1899. The site of many special events, the cemetery is open for free to visitors on most days from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

  A map of notable graves is available from the office to the right of the entrance. Or follow the video tour online at hollywoodforever.com.

  Early film stars, like actor Douglas Fairbanks Sr., built spectacular monuments for themselves. Fairbanks is buried here facing a reflecting pond. His family crypt also includes his son, actor Douglas Fairbanks Jr. Other famous names entombed here include Mel Blanc, Rudolph Valentino, Cecil B. DeMille, Peter Lorre, Jayne Mansfield, Tyrone Power, Nelson Riddle, Carl “Alfalfa” Switzer, Faye Wray, Vampira and many more. Railroad scion William Clark Jr. is buried in a replica of a Greek temple, surrounded by a pond, seen at left, with the grave of rock star Johnny Ramone in the foreground.

  Exit through the same entrance gates.

  At the exit, turn right onto Santa Monica Boulevard. Travel east for two traffic lights to Van Ness Avenue. Turn right onto Van Ness Avenue and drive south, passing the eastern wall of the Hollywood Forever Cemetery.

  Continue south on Van Ness Avenue and navigate into the right lane, preparing to turn right at Melrose Avenue.

  11. Before turning onto Melrose Avenue, notice Raleigh Studios, across the street, on both sides of Van Ness Avenue. Founded in 1915, Raleigh is not the largest Hollywood studio, but it is the oldest continually running studio in the world. Silent films were made here for more than decade; the first starred Mary Pickford. Classic films made here include In The Heat Of The Night, The Best Years Of Our Lives, What Ever Happened To Baby Jane? and A Star Is Born. It was here that Ronald Reagan hosted the television series Death Valley Days. Other TV series include The Adventures of Superman, Gunsmoke, Perry Mason and Whose Line Is It Anyway?

  12. Raleigh Studios is not open to the public. From Van Ness Avenue, turn right onto Melrose Avenue. Immediately on the right is Paramount Studios.

  Continue west on Melrose Avenue. At Bronson Avenue, see the original Paramount gate; continue west for another block, navigating into the left lane. At the next corner, Windsor Boulevard, see the newer, larger main gate for Paramount.

  More than 6,000 feature films and television episodes have been filmed on this lot. A sample includes Forrest Gump, Rear Window, Sunset Boulevard, Transformers, Ghost, Airplane!, The Ten Commandments, Vertigo, Top Hat and Ordinary People. Television series filmed here include Glee, Star Trek, Frasier, Cheers, Happy Days, Shogun, The Odd Couple, Mork & Mindy, Bonanza, Entourage, MacGyver and The Brady Bunch. Paramount Studios is not open to the public.

  13. From the left lane on Melrose Avenue, turn left onto Windsor Boulevard, heading south. The final destination is Windsor Square, an enclave of
mansions built for the movie stars and robber barons of old Hollywood. Continue south on Windsor Boulevard.

  Cross the intersection at Beverly Boulevard. It’s the avenue that divides north and south street numbers throughout LA. Windsor Boulevard also marks the beginning of the historic Windsor Square neighborhood.

  These are private residences. Some former residents of this neighborhood include actors John Barrymore, Ethel Barrymore, Cliff Robertson, Anne Heche and Ellen DeGeneres, silent screen star Dolores Costello, opera star Lawrence Tibbett, oil tycoon J. Paul Getty’s son, and newspaper baron Norman Chandler.

  14. At the corner of Windsor Boulevard and Second Street, turn left onto Second Street. Travel east for one block to Lorraine Boulevard. Turn right onto Lorraine Boulevard. Continue south, past the historic mansions on Lorraine Boulevard. House numbers are painted on the curbs near each driveway. 455 South Lorraine Boulevard, the former home of Norman Chandler, was dubbed “the Western White House,” for the Chandlers made it available to visiting presidents Eisenhower, Kennedy, Johnson and Nixon.

  15. Turn left onto Fifth Street, heading east for one block. From Fifth Street, turn right onto Irving Boulevard, and continue to drive south across the 6th Street intersection. Just past the corner stands 605 South Irving Boulevard, the former home of George Getty II, son of oil baron J. Paul Getty. To provide a residence for LA’s mayor, Getty donated his house to the city. However, mayors rarely sleep here. The house is ceremonial, used to receive heads of state, or for meetings with government officials.

  Travel south to the end of the block at Wilshire Boulevard. Turn right, heading west. Continue west for three short blocks to Plymouth Boulevard, then turn right, past a final row of grand residences in Windsor Square.

  The Windsor Square neighborhood has few palm trees, making it an ideal location for feature films, since it can substitute as almost any location. From silent movies featuring the Keystone Kops to War Games, The Artist, and countless television commercials, you’ve seen these streets in many other guises.

  16. Continue north on Plymouth Boulevard to First Street. Turn left on First Street and follow its tree-lined curves to the corner of Larchmont Boulevard, known to locals as Larchmont

  Village. Turn right, onto Larchmont Boulevard.

  Here you’ll find boutiques, restaurants and shopping destinations—the ideal place to end this tour.

  No alcohol is served in this residentially-zoned district, but everyone is welcome to buy a bottle of wine at Larchmont Village Wine, Spirits & Cheese. Most Larchmont restaurants will provide glasses and uncork your wine for a small fee.

  Larchmont Village is a favorite hangout for working actors (it’s off the radar for most tourists), as well as local residents.

  HOLLYWOOD HEIGHTS WALKING TOUR

  Unlike the drive through historic, residential Hollywoodland, you don’t need a car to visit the congested, honky-tonk section of Hollywood that’s fun for visitors and locals alike.

  There’s more to do on Hollywood Boulevard than can be accomplished in one day. This tour focuses on the historic stops, then strays into Hollywood Heights to visit landmarks that are off many tourist’s itineraries. The route covers a few miles with an uphill stroll. Wear walking shoes, sunscreen, and casual clothing. While all is free, we’ll visit two stops that require a (well-justified) entrance fee.

  Hollywood and Highland Center

  The Hollywood Museum

  Hollywood Boulevard

  Egyptian Theatre

  Musso & Frank

  Frederick’s of Hollywood

  Hollywood United Methodist Church

  El Capitan Theater

  Chinese Theatre

  Roosevelt Hotel

  Magic Castle

  The Freeman House

  View point

  High Tower

  Hollywood Bowl

  Hollywood Heritage Museum

  2000 North Highland Avenue

  START:

  Hollywood and Highland Center

  END:

  Hollywood and Highland Center

  TOUR TIME:

  About 4 hours

  CHAPTERS:

  9, 22

  Take the Red Line (the underground LA Metro) to the Hollywood Blvd./Highland Avenue Station. Take the escalator up to Hollywood Boulevard, then step into the Hollywood and Highland complex.

  1. The Hollywood and Highland Center is the site of the Dolby Theatre, which is the home of the annual Academy Award telecasts. From Hollywood Boulevard, step inside and ascend the glamorous staircase. Illuminated along the sides, you’ll see the names of every film to win an Academy Award for Best Picture, arranged in chronological order.

  The design is based on scenery in D.W. Griffith’s film Intolerance, one of the most elaborate spectacles in the history of silent movies.

  On Oscar night, Loews Hollywood Hotel on the adjacent property is filled with hair stylists, make-up artists and dressers to assist Oscar nominees and guests before making their entrances in front of the cameras and entering the Dolby Theatre.

  Take the elevators to the third or fourth floors, then use the crosswalk that faces to the north. Hollywood and Highland provides one of the best views of the Hollywood sign, and is a fun place to take a photo.

  Next, navigate to street level, and head to the left (east) toward the corner of Highland Avenue. Our first stop is on the diagonal corner of Highland Avenue and Hollywood Boulevard. You’ll see many attractions aimed at tourists. Our destination is the most authentic attraction on the block:

  2. The historic Max Factor studio, now called The Hollywood Museum.

  Cross the street to the east and again to the south. Head to 1660 North Highland Avenue. This is the first stop that requires an admission fee. Take the elevator to the top floor, then work your way down. The Studio opened in 1928. See where make-up magician Max Factor hosted all of Hollywood’s performers, where he invented new technology for the burgeoning film industry, and for retail sales, too.

  The museum is filled with costumes and props from your favorite movies, old and recent. You will gain insight into the art of filmmaking, and how it evolved. See: thehollywoodmuseum.com

  3. Hollywood Boulevard.

  From the front door of the museum, turn right (north). At the corner, turn right again, onto Hollywood Boulevard. (Turn the corner, but don’t cross the street just yet.)

  Amidst the attractions (and the crowds), notice the 1920s architecture from the days when Hollywood Boulevard was an important shopping street for the show biz elite.

  While exploring Hollywood Boulevard: look up, and look down.

  Look up to see signs about the significance of where you’re standing. Follow the signs, if you’d like, to take a tour of this historic street. The red signs disclose interesting facts, famous names, and vintage photos. The tour continues on both sides of Hollywood Boulevard.

  Look down to see the Hollywood Walk of Fame beneath your feet. Names are honored in five categories, indicated by the brass medallion in the center of the star. See if you can spot them all. They are:

  Film (designated with an old-fashioned movie camera)

  Stage (designated by the masks of comedy and tragedy, the hardest ones to find!)

  Music (honored with a vinyl record and stylus)

  Radio (honored with a classic ribbon microphone)

  Television (indicated by an old TV with rabbit-ear antennae)

  There are several commemorative stars interspersed on the sidewalk too, to celebrate special accomplishments that affected the entertainment industry.

  Want to snap your photo beside your favorite celebrity’s star? For a list and the address for each one, see: www.walkoffame.com/starfinder Two new stars are added each month. Unveilings start at 11:3o a.m., always attended by celebrity guest speakers. Check online to see who will receive the star treatment next, and where the ceremony will take place. Star ceremonies are free (no tickets required).

  There are two notable landmarks to visi
t as you head east on Hollywood Boulevard:

  4. At 6712 Hollywood Blvd., notice the Egyptian Theatre, built in 1922, years before the invention of sound movies. That year, King Tutankhamen’s tomb was discovered in Egypt, and an Egyptian craze swept the nation, inspiring this remarkable structure. Now a National Landmark both inside and out, the Egyptian was developed by Charles E. Toberman, who would gain even greater fame five years later with his Chinese Theatre. The Egyptian originally cost $800,000 to build; the renovation, completed in 1998, cost $12.9 million. The Egyptian is famous for the openings of silent film classics, including Robin Hood and The Ten Commandments. Owned today by the nonprofit American Cinematheque, the theater is open for screenings of movie classics (from many countries), now featuring state-of-the-art sound. For a schedule, see www.americancinemathequecalendar.com

  5. Cross to the north side of Hollywood Boulevard, where you’ll find the oldest restaurant in Hollywood. Built in 1919, Musso & Frank, at 6667 Hollywood Boulevard, was the place to be seen in the days when Hollywood was first being built. It’s where some of the first movie deals were made—because Musso & Frank installed the town’s first pay phone. Regular customers were Hollywood’s A-List: including Charlie Chaplin, Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks. Years later, it’s where Joe DiMaggio wooed Marilyn Monroe, where Humphrey Bogart dated Lauren Bacall, where Greta Garbo had breakfast with Gary Cooper.