Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat
Page 20
Avocado
Hass avocados are the most widely available variety. They’re also one of my favorites, with their silky texture and rich, nutty flavor. While a little less common, Fuerte, Pinkerton, and Bacon avocados are also delightful, with much milder flavor and creamier texture. Use any variety you like, as long as it’s perfectly ripe: the avocado is ready when it’s tender to the touch.
A friend who’s been a hand surgeon for nearly forty years told me that avocados and bagels are the two most common causes of hand injuries. So please, please, please put the avocado down on the board when you whack at the pit with your knife to remove it.
Use one avocado for this salad, and wait until the last minute to cut into it, because it will oxidize quickly, changing in both flavor and color. Once you’ve halved the avocado and removed the pit, use a spoon to scoop out rustic spoonfuls and place them directly onto the platter. Season each bite of avocado with flaky salt and drizzle with vinaigrette. If you have any mild pepper flakes, such as Marash or Aleppo, on hand, sprinkle them on top for a little hint of spice and a welcome color contrast.
Beets
Use 2 to 3 small beets, tops and ends trimmed and rinsed. I’ve found that red beets are the most consistently delicious, but gold beets and the candy cane–striped variety called Chioggia lend stunning beauty to the plate. Even someone like me, who is obsessed with flavor, can make an exception for these varieties from time to time.
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place the beets in a baking dish in a single layer and fill the pan with 1/4-inch water—just enough to create steam in the pan without simmering the beets. Lay a piece of parchment paper over the beets and cover the dish tightly with foil. Roast for an hour, or until completely tender when pierced with a paring knife—there are few things less appetizing than undercooked beets. Pay attention to the aromas emitted from the oven—if you smell sugars caramelizing, it means all the water has evaporated, and you’ll need to add more to prevent the beets from burning.
Let the beets cool just enough so you can handle them, and then peel by rubbing with a paper towel. The skins will slip right off. Cut into bite-size wedges and toss in a bowl along with 1 1/2 teaspoons wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, and salt. Let sit for 10 minutes, then taste and adjust seasoning as needed—remember that the right amount of Acid and Salt will amplify the beets’ natural sweetness.
To serve, arrange the wedges on the platter—the rule when plating beets is: put them down confidently, and do not move them or they will stain, leaving a messy trail in their wake.
Citrus
Use 2 to 3 citrus fruits of any variety, including grapefruits, pomelos, oranges, blood or Cara Cara oranges, even mandarins. Combine a couple different varieties of citrus to enhance the flavor and aesthetics of the dish.
Cut off the tops and bottoms of the fruits. Place on a cutting board, then remove the peel and the pith in strips with a sharp knife. Carefully slice oranges and mandarins crosswise, about 1/4-inch thick, removing seeds as you encounter them. To supreme—or segment—grapefruits and pomelos, hold the peeled fruit over a bowl in one hand. Carefully use a knife with a sharp, thin blade to cut along the membrane down to the center of the orange. Continue cutting along both sides of each membrane to release every segment. When you’re done, squeeze all of the remaining juice from the fruit into a separate bowl and use it to make Citrus Vinaigrette, Granita, or just drink it! Season the slices or segments lightly with salt as you place them on the platter.
Tomatoes
Use 2 to 3 tomatoes when they’re ripe and in season during the summer months. A few contrasting slices of heirloom tomatoes—try Green Zebra, Great White, a yellow variety such as Marvel Stripe or Hawaiian Pineapple, a pink one such as Brandywine, or a dark one such as Cherokee Purple—will likewise enhance how the salad looks and tastes.
Core the tomatoes with a paring knife, then carefully slice them horizontally, about 1/4-inch thick. Season the slices with salt as you place them on the platter. As with the beets or citrus, arrange with an eye toward beauty, alternating colors of tomatoes with the other elements of the salad.
Cucumbers
While almost all of the other ingredients in this matrix are soft in texture and rich in flavor, cucumbers are crisp and light. Use about 1/2 pound of any flavorful, thin-skinned variety. This works out to about two Persian, Japanese, or lemon cucumbers, or one small Armenian cucumber. Remove the peel in alternating strips. This is what I call a stripey peel, and I use it for all sorts of produce when I want to remove some but not all of the skin (leaving some peel behind is both a handy aesthetic trick and a technical one, since it provides structure and prevents delicate vegetables such as eggplant and asparagus from completely disintegrating as they cook). Halve the cucumbers lengthwise, and if the seeds are bigger than a peppercorn, use a teaspoon to scrape them out. Slice the cucumbers on the bias for a longer, more elegant, half-moon shape. Toss with salt and vinaigrette before spreading out onto the salad.
Macerated Onion
Place half a red onion down on the cutting board and cut it in half, parallel to the root end. Holding the two quarters together, slice the onion thinly to yield quarter slices. Place the slices in a bowl and dress with 2 tablespoons wine vinegar or citrus juice. Toss to coat. Let the onions sit in the acid, or macerate (see page 118), for at least 15 minutes before using. This process tones down their acrid bite. Keep in mind that as onions macerate, they’ll absorb the acid, so as you incorporate them into the salad they’ll add both tartness and a pleasant oniony crunch. If you like, drain the macerating acid and use it to build the vinaigrette.
Optional Additions
• Gently tear Slow-Roasted Salmon or Tuna Confit into two-bite-size pieces, then arrange atop the salad. Drizzle with vinaigrette and sprinkle with flaky salt.
• Halve 2 Eight-Minute Eggs (page 304) and sprinkle them with flaky salt and freshly ground black pepper. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil, and if you like, lay an anchovy filet over each half. Arrange atop the salad.
Bright Cabbage Slaw
Serves 4 generously
* * *
I know that some people hate coleslaw. But I’ve converted even the most fervent among them with this version, which bears no resemblance to the cloying stuff many of us grew up eating. Light and clean, it’ll lend crunch and brightness to any plate. Serve the Mexican variation with Beer-Battered Fish and tortillas for delicious fish tacos. Make Classic Southern Slaw to serve alongside Spicy Fried Chicken. And remember, the richer the food you plan to serve with it, the more acidic the slaw should be.
1/2 medium head of red or green cabbage (about 1 1/2 pounds)
1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
1/4 cup lemon juice
Salt
1/2 cup coarsely chopped parsley leaves
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Quarter the cabbage through the core. Use a sharp knife to cut the core out at an angle. Thinly slice the cabbage crosswise and place in a colander set inside a large salad bowl. Season with two generous pinches of salt to help draw out water, toss the slices, and set aside.
In a small bowl, toss the sliced onion with the lemon juice and let it sit for 20 minutes to macerate (see page 118). Set aside.
After 20 minutes, drain any water the cabbage may have given off (it’s fine if there’s nothing to drain—sometimes cabbage isn’t very watery). Place the cabbage in the bowl and add the parsley and the macerated onions (but not their lemony juices, yet). Dress the slaw with the vinegar and olive oil. Toss very well to combine.
Taste and adjust, adding the remaining macerating lemon juice and salt as needed. When your palate zings with pleasure, it’s ready. Serve chilled or at room temperature.
Store leftover slaw covered, in the fridge, for up to two days.
Variations
• If you don’t have cabbage on hand, or simply want to try something new, make an Alterna-s
law, using 1 large bunch raw kale, 1 1/2 pounds raw Brussels sprouts, or 1 1/2 pounds raw kohlrabi instead.
• For Mexi-Slaw, substitute a neutral-tasting oil for the olive oil, lime juice for the lemon juice, and cilantro for the parsley. Add 1 sliced jalapeño pepper to the cabbage along with the macerated onions. Taste and adjust seasoning with the macerating lime juice and salt.
• To make Asian Slaw, toss the cabbage with just one generous pinch of salt and add 2 teaspoons soy sauce. Substitute lime juice for the lemon juice. Skip the parsley and add 1 small garlic clove, finely grated or pounded; 2 thinly sliced scallions; 1 teaspoon finely grated ginger; and 1/4 cup chopped, toasted peanuts to the cabbage along with the macerated onions. Skip the red wine vinegar and olive oil and dress with Rice Wine Vinaigrette. Taste and adjust seasoning with the macerating lime juice and salt.
• To make Classic Southern Slaw, substitute 1/2 cup stiff Classic Sandwich Mayo for the olive oil and vinegar. Add 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 cup julienned or grated carrots, and 1 julienned or grated tart apple, such as Honeycrisp or Fuji, to the cabbage along with the macerated onions.
Three Classic Shaved Salads
I inherited my fondness for shaved salads from my friend Cal Peternell, the chef who taught me exactly how much salt it takes to season a pot of polenta (hint: a lot) during my early days at Chez Panisse. One out of three salads I eat at Cal’s house is shaved. While I can’t speculate on why he seems to have such a soft spot for them, my own reasons are clear: they’re easy to make and lend crunch and brightness to any meal.
Vietnamese Cucumber Salad
Serves 4 to 6
* * *
2 pounds (about 8) Persian or Japanese cucumbers, stripey peeled (see page 220)
1 large jalapeño, seeds and veins removed if desired, thinly sliced
3 scallions, finely sliced
1 garlic clove, finely grated or pounded with a pinch of salt
1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves
16 large mint leaves, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup toasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup neutral-tasting oil
4 to 5 tablespoons lime juice
4 teaspoons seasoned rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
Pinch of salt
Using either a Japanese mandoline or a sharp knife, thinly slice the cucumbers into coins, discarding the ends. In a large bowl, combine the cucumbers, jalapeño, scallions, garlic, cilantro, mint, and peanuts. In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, 4 tablespoons lime juice, the vinegar, fish sauce, sugar, and a small pinch of salt. Dress the salad with the vinaigrette and toss to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and more lime juice as needed. Serve immediately.
Shaved Carrot Salad with Ginger and Lime
Serves 6
* * *
1 1/4 cups golden or black raisins
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
2 pounds carrots
4 teaspoons finely grated ginger
1 garlic clove, finely grated or pounded with a pinch of salt
1 to 2 large jalapeños, seeds and veins removed if desired, minced
2 cups coarsely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems, plus a few sprigs for garnish
Salt
Lime Vinaigrette
In a small bowl, submerge the raisins in boiling water. Let them sit for 15 minutes to rehydrate and plump up. Drain and set aside.
Place the cumin seeds in a small, dry skillet and set over medium heat. Swirl the pan constantly to ensure even toasting. Toast until the first few seeds begin to pop and emit a savory aroma, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Immediately dump the seeds into the bowl of a mortar or a spice grinder. Grind finely with a pinch of salt. Set aside.
Trim and peel the carrots. Using either a Japanese mandoline or a sharp knife, thinly slice the carrots lengthwise. Use a sharp knife to cut the slices into matchsticks. If that seems too troublesome, you can use a vegetable peeler to make thin ribbons or just slice the carrots into thin coins.
Combine carrots, ginger, garlic, jalapeño, cilantro, cumin, and raisins in a large bowl. Season with three generous pinches of salt and dress with lime vinaigrette. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and more lime juice as needed. Refrigerate the salad for 30 minutes to allow flavors to come together. To serve, toss to distribute seasonings, heap onto a large platter, and garnish with a few sprigs of cilantro.
Shaved Fennel and Radishes
Serves 4 to 6
* * *
3 medium fennel bulbs (about 1 1/2 pounds)
1 bunch radishes, trimmed and washed (about 8 radishes)
1 cup parsley leaves, loosely packed
Optional: 1-ounce chunk of Parmesan
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
About 1/3 cup Lemon Vinaigrette
Trim the fennel by removing any stalks and the very tip of the bottom end, leaving the bulb intact. Halve the bulbs through the root and remove any fibrous outer layers. Using either a Japanese mandoline or a sharp knife, cut the fennel bulbs crosswise into paper-thin slices, discarding the cores. Reserve the discarded fennel for another use, or sneak it into Tuscan Kale and Bean Soup (page 275). Slice the radishes just a hair thicker, about 1/8 inch, discarding the ends.
In a large bowl, combine the fennel, radishes, and parsley leaves. If using Parmesan, use a vegetable peeler to shave shards directly into the bowl. Just before serving, season with two generous pinches of salt and a small pinch of pepper. Dress with vinaigrette. Taste and adjust, adding more salt and vinaigrette as needed, then arrange on a serving platter. Serve immediately.
Summer Tomato and Herb Salad
Serves 4 to 6
* * *
Is there anything more refreshing to eat than a perfect tomato salad showered with herbs? If there is, I can’t think of it. Add this salad to your summer repertoire, changing the tomatoes and the herbs with each passing week. If you grow tired of green basil, look for less common herbs such as anise hyssop, also known as licorice mint, or opal or piccolo fino basil at the farmers’ market. Indian, Mexican, and Asian grocery stores are also great places to find special herbs including all sorts of mint, shiso, Thai basil, and Vietnamese coriander, any one of which will work nicely in this salad.
2 to 3 mixed heirloom tomatoes, such as Marvel Stripe, Cherokee Purple, or Brandywine, cored and sliced into 1/4-inch slices
Flaky salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup Tomato Vinaigrette. Hint: use the cores and end slices of the salad tomatoes
1 pint cherry tomatoes, rinsed, stemmed, and halved
2 cups any combination of freshly picked leaves of basil, parsley, anise hyssop, chervil, tarragon, or 1-inch pieces of chives
Just before serving, lay out the heirloom tomato slices on a serving platter in a single layer and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle lightly with vinaigrette. In a separate bowl, combine the cherry tomatoes and season liberally with salt and pepper. Dress with vinaigrette, taste and adjust salt as needed, and carefully mound the cherry tomatoes over the tomato slices.
Place the fresh herbs in the salad bowl and dress lightly with vinaigrette, salt, and pepper to taste. Pile herb salad over the tomatoes and serve immediately.
Variations
• To make Caprese Salad, alternate heirloom tomato slices with 1/2-inch slices of fresh mozzarella or burrata cheese before seasoning and dressing. Skip the herb salad. Instead, when seasoning the cherry tomatoes in a separate bowl, add 12 torn basil leaves. Mound the cherry tomatoes over the tomato slices. Serve with warm, crusty bread.
• To make Ricotta and Tomato Salad Toasts, whip together 1 1/2 cups fresh ricotta cheese with extra-virgin olive oil, flaky salt, and freshly ground black pepper. Brush 4 1-inch slices of crusty bread with extra-virgin olive oil and toast until golden brown in a 400°F oven or toaster oven, about 10 minutes. Rub each toast lightly with a raw garlic clove on one si
de. Spread 5 tablespoons ricotta onto the garlic side of each toast. Lay slices of heirloom tomatoes over the ricotta and then pile sliced heirloom tomatoes on top. Divide 1 cup herb salad atop the toasts and serve immediately.
• To make Persian Shirazi Salad, toss 1/2 thinly sliced red onion in 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar in a small bowl and let sit for 15 minutes. Stripey peel 4 Persian cucumbers, cut into 1/2-inch slices, and place in a large bowl. Add cherry tomatoes and 1 pounded or finely grated garlic clove to the cucumbers. Mix in the onions (but not their vinegar, yet). Season with salt and pepper and dress with Lime Vinaigrette. Taste the mixture and add some of the reserved vinegar if needed, then continue as above, mounding the mixture atop the sliced tomatoes. Top with an herb salad of dill, cilantro, parsley, and mint, also dressed with Lime Vinaigrette.
• To make Greek Salad, toss 1/2 thinly sliced red onion in 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar in a small bowl and let sit for 15 minutes. Stripey peel 4 Persian cucumbers, cut into 1/2-inch slices, and place in a large bowl. Add cherry tomatoes, 1 pounded or finely grated garlic clove, 1 cup rinsed, pitted black olives, and 4 ounces rinsed and crumbled feta cheese to the cucumbers. Mix in the onions (but not their vinegar, yet). Season with salt and pepper and dress with Red Wine Vinaigrette. Taste the mixture and add some of the reserved vinegar if needed, then continue as above, mounding the mixture atop the sliced tomatoes. Skip the herb salad.