Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat
Page 22
Variation
• To add a little heat, add 1 teaspoon minced jalapeño.
Any-Other-Citrus Vinaigrette
Makes about 2/3 cup
* * *
1 tablespoon finely diced shallot
4 teaspoons white wine vinegar
1/4 cup citrus juice
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon finely grated zest
Salt
In a small bowl or jar, let the shallot sit in the vinegar for 15 minutes to macerate (see page 118), then add the citrus juice, olive oil, zest, and a generous pinch of salt. Stir or shake to combine, then taste with a leaf of lettuce and adjust salt and acid as needed.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
Ideal for garden lettuces, romaine and Little Gem lettuce, blanched asparagus, and for Avocado Salad, Slow-Roasted Salmon, Grilled Artichokes.
Variation
• To make a sweet-tart Kumquat Vinaigrette, add 3 tablespoons finely diced kumquats to the shallots and continue as above.
Tomato Vinaigrette
Makes about 1 cup
* * *
Make this dressing with the ripest tomatoes, or better yet, with the cores and ends from the tomatoes you plan to use in your salad. You’ll know a tomato is ripe when it smells woody and sweet at the stem, and feels firm when pressed, with just a little bit of give.
2 tablespoons diced shallots
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar
1 large or two small very ripe tomatoes (about 8 ounces)
4 basil leaves, torn into large pieces
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove
Salt
In a small bowl or jar, let the shallot sit in the vinegars for 15 minutes to macerate (see page 118).
Halve the tomato crosswise. Grate on the largest hole of a box grater and discard the skin. You should be left with 1/2 cup grated tomato. Add it to the shallot. Add the basil leaves, olive oil, and a generous pinch of salt. Smash the garlic against the counter with the palm of your hand and add to the dressing. Shake or stir to combine. Taste with a crouton or slice of tomato and adjust salt and acid as needed. Let sit for at least 10 minutes, and remove the garlic before using.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 2 days.
Ideal for sliced tomatoes, and for Avocado Salad, Caprese Salad, Summer Panzanella, Ricotta and Tomato Salad Toasts, Summer Tomato and Herb Salad.
Rice Wine Vinaigrette
Makes about 1/3 cup
* * *
2 tablespoons seasoned rice wine vinegar
4 tablespoons neutral-tasting oil
1 garlic clove
Salt
Pour the vinegar and olive oil into a small bowl or jar. Smash the garlic clove against the counter with the palm of your hand and add to the dressing. Stir or shake to combine, then taste with a leaf of lettuce and adjust salt and acid as needed. Let sit for at least 10 minutes, then remove garlic before using dressing.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 3 days.
Ideal for garden lettuces, romaine and Little Gem lettuce, shaved daikon radish, carrots, or cucumbers, and for any Avocado Salad.
Variations
• To add a little heat, add 1 teaspoon minced jalapeño.
• To evoke the flavors of Korea or Japan, add a few drops of toasted sesame oil.
Caesar Dressing
Makes about 1 1/2 cups
* * *
4 salt-packed anchovies (or 8 filets), soaked and fileted
3/4 cup stiff Basic Mayonnaise
1 garlic clove, finely grated or pounded with a pinch of salt
3 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
3-ounce chunk of Parmesan, finely grated (about 1 cup), plus more for serving
3/4 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Freshly ground black pepper
Salt
Coarsely chop the anchovies and then pound them into a fine paste in a mortar and pestle. The more you break them down, the better the dressing will be.
In a medium bowl, stir together the anchovies, mayonnaise, garlic, lemon juice, vinegar, Parmesan, Worcestershire sauce, and pepper. Taste with a leaf of lettuce, then add salt and adjust acid as needed. Or, practicing what you learned about Layering Salt, add a little bit of each salty ingredient to the mayonnaise, bit by bit. Adjust the acid, then taste and adjust the salty ingredients until you reach the ideal balance of Salt, Fat, and Acid. Has putting a lesson you read in a book into practice ever been this delicious? I doubt it.
To make the salad, use your hands to toss the greens and Torn Croutons with an abundant amount of dressing in a large bowl to coat evenly. Garnish with Parmesan and freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately.
Refrigerate leftover dressing, covered, for up to 3 days.
Ideal for romaine and Little Gem lettuce, chicories, raw or blanched Kale, shaved Brussels sprouts, Belgian endive.
Creamy Herb Dressing
Makes about 1 1/4 cups
* * *
1 tablespoon finely diced shallot
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 cup crème fraîche (page 113), heavy cream, sour cream, or plain yogurt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small garlic clove, finely grated or pounded with a pinch of salt
1 scallion, white and green part finely chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped soft herbs, in whatever proportions you like. Use any combination of parsley, cilantro, dill, chives, chervil, basil, and tarragon
1/2 teaspoon sugar
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
In a small bowl, let the shallot sit in the vinegar for 15 minutes to macerate (see page 118). In a large bowl, whisk together the shallot and macerating vinegar with the crème fraîche, olive oil, garlic, scallion, herbs, sugar, a generous pinch of salt, and a pinch of black pepper. Taste with a leaf of lettuce, then adjust salt and acid as needed.
Refrigerate leftovers, covered, for up to 3 days.
Ideal for romaine, Iceberg wedges, Little Gem lettuce, beets, cucumbers, Belgian endive, and for serving with grilled fish or roast chicken, dipping crudités, serving alongside fried foods.
Blue Cheese Dressing
Makes 1 1/4 cups
* * *
5 ounces creamy blue cheese, such as Roquefort, Bleu d’Auvergne, or Maytag Blue, crumbled
1/2 cup crème fraîche (page 113), sour cream, or heavy cream
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 small garlic clove, finely grated or pounded with a pinch of salt
Salt
In a medium bowl, use a whisk to thoroughly combine the cheese, crème fraîche, olive oil, vinegar, and garlic. Alternatively, place everything into a jar, seal the lid, and shake vigorously to combine. Taste with a leaf of lettuce, then add salt and adjust acid as needed.
Refrigerate leftovers, covered, for up to 3 days.
Ideal for Belgian endive, chicories, Iceberg wedges, Little Gem and romaine lettuce. This dressing also works beautifully as sauce for steak or dip for carrots and cucumbers.
Green Goddess Dressing
Makes about 2 cups
* * *
3 salt-packed anchovies (or 6 filets), soaked and fileted
1 ripe medium avocado, halved and pitted
1 garlic clove, sliced
4 teaspoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon finely chopped chives
1 tablespoon finely chopped chervil
1 teaspoon finely chopped tarragon
1/2 cup stiff Basic Mayonnaise
Salt
Coarsely chop the anchovies and then pound th
em into a fine paste in a mortar and pestle. The more you break them down, the better the dressing will be.
Place the anchovies, avocado, garlic, vinegar, lemon juice, herbs, and mayonnaise in a blender or food processor with a generous pinch of salt and blend until creamy, thick, and smooth. Taste and adjust salt and acid as needed. Leave the Green Goddess thick to use as a dip, or thin with water to desired consistency for a salad dressing.
Refrigerate leftovers, covered, for up to 3 days.
Ideal for romaine, Iceberg wedges, Little Gem lettuce, beets, cucumbers, Belgian endive, for serving with grilled fish or roast chicken, dipping crudités, and for Avocado Salad.
Tahini Dressing
Makes about 1 cup
* * *
1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds, or 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
Salt
1/2 cup tahini
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, finely grated or pounded with a pinch of salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
2 to 4 tablespoons ice water
Place the cumin seeds in a small, dry skillet and set over medium heat. Swirl the pan constantly to ensure even toasting. Toast until the first few seeds begin to pop and emit a savory aroma, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Immediately dump the seeds into the bowl of a mortar or a spice grinder. Grind finely with a pinch of salt.
Place the cumin, tahini, lemon juice, oil, garlic, cayenne, 2 tablespoons ice water, and a generous pinch of salt in a medium bowl and whisk to combine. Alternatively, blend everything together in a food processor. The mixture might look broken at first, but trust that it’ll come together into a smooth, creamy emulsion with stirring. Add water as needed to thin it out to desired consistency—leave it thick to use as a dip, and thin it out to dress salads, vegetables, or meat. Taste with a leaf of lettuce, then adjust salt and acid as needed.
Refrigerate leftovers, covered, for up to 3 days.
Variation
• To make Goma-Ae (Japanese sesame seed dressing) substitute 1/4 cup seasoned rice wine vinegar for the lemon juice. Omit the cumin, salt, olive oil, and cayenne and add 2 teaspoons of soy sauce, a few drops of toasted sesame oil, and 1 teaspoon mirin (rice wine). Whisk together with garlic as directed above. Taste and adjust salt and acid as needed.
Ideal for drizzling over roasted vegetables, grilled fish, or chicken; tossing with blanched broccoli, kale, green beans, or spinach; or serving as a dipping sauce with cucumbers and carrots.
Miso-Mustard Dressing
Makes 3/4 cup
* * *
4 tablespoons white or yellow miso paste
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
4 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon finely grated ginger
In a medium bowl, use a whisk to thoroughly combine everything until smooth. Alternatively, place all the ingredients in a jar, seal the lid, and shake vigorously to combine. Taste with a leaf of lettuce, then adjust acid as needed.
Ideal for tossing with sliced, raw cabbage or kale, garden lettuces, romaine and Little Gem lettuce, Belgian endive, and drizzling over grilled fish, leftover roast chicken, or roasted vegetables.
Peanut-Lime Dressing
Makes about 1 3/4 cups
* * *
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon finely grated ginger
1/4 cup peanut butter
1/2 jalapeño pepper, stemmed and sliced
3 tablespoons neutral-tasting oil
1 garlic clove, sliced
Optional: 1/4 cup coarsely chopped cilantro leaves
Place all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Thin with water to desired consistency—leave it thick to use as a dip, and thin it out to dress salads, vegetables, or meat. Taste with a leaf of lettuce, then adjust salt and acid as needed.
Refrigerate leftovers, covered, for up to 3 days.
Ideal for cucumbers, rice or soba noodles, romaine, and serving alongside grilled or roasted chicken, steak, or pork.
VEGETABLES
Cooking Onions
The longer you cook onions, the deeper their flavor will be. But you don’t need to caramelize every onion you cook. In general, cook all onions, no matter how you intend to use them, at least until they’ve lost their crunch. Only when they’ve reached this point will they truly deliver sweetness to a dish.
Blond onions are cooked until they’re soft, remaining translucent. Cook them over medium-low heat to keep them from taking on color. If you notice them starting to stick, discourage browning by splashing a little water into the pan. Use blond onions for Silky Sweet Corn Soup or any recipe where retaining the light color of a dish is a priority.
Browned onions are cooked until they take on some color, and begin to deepen in flavor as a result. They’re ideal for pasta sauces, Chicken with Lentil Rice, and as the base for countless braises and soups.
Caramelized onions are taken to the edge of browning and hence boast the deepest flavor. Use them to make a Caramelized Onion Tart (page 127), toss them with blanched broccoli or green beans, pile them atop burgers and steak sandwiches, or chop them finely and stir into crème fraîche for an unbelievable onion dip.
Though their name may be a misnomer (Maillarded onions just doesn’t sound right!), there’s nothing wrong about caramelized onions. Since they take so long to make, and since they are so good, make more caramelized onions than you’ll need for a single meal. Use them over the course of four or five days as the base of any of the many dishes that benefit from deeply flavored onions.
Start with at least 8 thinly sliced onions. Set your largest skillet, or a large Dutch oven, over medium-high heat. Add enough butter, olive oil, or some of each, to generously coat the bottom of the pan. Let the fat heat up until it shimmers, then add the onions and season lightly with salt. Though this will draw water out and delay browning initially, it will also soften the onions and lead to more even browning in the long run. Reduce the heat to medium, and keep an eye on the onions, stirring as necessary to keep from burning, or from browning too quickly in any one spot of the pan. It’ll take a while for them to cook all the way through—at least 45 minutes, and up to an hour.
When the onions are done cooking, taste and adjust seasoning with salt and a rumor of red wine vinegar to balance out their sweetness.
Cherry Tomato Confit
Makes about 4 cups
* * *
At the height of summer, make cherry tomato confit once a week and use it as a quick pasta sauce, spoon it over grilled fish or chicken, or serve it alongside fresh ricotta and grilled croutons rubbed with garlic. Use the sweetest, most flavorful tomatoes you can find—they’ll explode on your tongue.
Strain, save, and reuse the confit oil for a second batch, or use it to make Tomato Vinaigrette.
4 cups cherry tomatoes, stemmed (about 1 1/2 dry pints)
Small handful basil leaves or stems (the stems are packed with flavor!)
4 garlic cloves, peeled
Salt
2 cups extra-virgin olive oil
Preheat the oven to 300°F.
Lay the cherry tomatoes in a single layer into a shallow roasting dish over a bed of basil leaves and/or stems and garlic cloves. Cover with about 2 cups of olive oil. While the tomatoes don’t have to be totally submerged, they should all be in contact with the oil. Season them liberally with salt, give them a stir, and then stick them in the oven for about 35 to 40 minutes. At no time should the dish ever boil—a simmer, at most, is fine.
You’ll know they’re done when they are tender all the way through when pierced with a skewer and the first skins start to split. Pull them from the oven and let them cool a bit. Discard the basil before using.
Serve war
m, or at room temperature. Keep tomatoes refrigerated, in their oil, for up to 5 days.
Variations
• To confit large tomatoes, peel them first. Use the tip of a small, sharp knife to core 12 Early Girls or tomatoes of similar size, then turn them over and make a small X at the base. Blanch in boiling water for 30 seconds, or just until the skin starts to loosen. Drop them into an ice bath to prevent them from cooking further, then remove the skins. Cook as directed above, in a single layer, with enough oil to go two-thirds of the way up the sides. Adjust cooking time to about 45 minutes, or until the tomatoes are soft all the way through.
• For artichoke confit, remove the tough outer leaves of 6 large or 12 baby artichokes. Use a vegetable peeler or sharp paring knife to peel away the dark green, fibrous skin at the base and along the stem of each artichoke. Halve the artichokes and use a spoon to scoop out the hairy chokes (refer to page 267 for an illustrated guide to preparing artichokes). Cook as directed above, in a single layer, with enough oil to go two-thirds of the way up the sides, until they are completely tender when pricked with a fork or paring knife, about 40 minutes. Toss with pasta, lemon zest, and pecorino cheese; chop up with a few mint leaves, a clove of pounded garlic, and a squeeze of lemon juice to spread atop crostini; or serve room temperature as an antipasto alongside cured meats and cheeses.
Six Ways to Cook Vegetables
Every time I sat down to narrow the recipes for this section, the cracks in my heart deepened a bit. Vegetables are my favorite things to eat and cook. For example, I love broccoli, broccoli rabe, and Romanesco broccoli (that fractal wonder) in equal measure. But with room for only a handful of recipes in each section, there was no way I could include one for each variety. And choosing between them felt like choosing a single album to listen to for the rest of my life: impossible.