Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat
Page 37
• For a Meringue Fool, layer crushed meringues into glasses with berry Compote (page 407) or lemon curd, and Vanilla Cream (page 423).
• To make a Chocolate-Caramel Meringue Fool, swirl 2 ounces melted, cooled bittersweet chocolate into the meringue just before baking. Continue as above. Layer crushed meringues into glasses with chocolate ice cream, Salted Caramel Sauce, and Caramel Cream (page 425).
Scented Cream
Makes about 2 cups
* * *
Both light and rich, whipped cream is a most delicious contradiction in terms. Cream has a unique ability to entrap air and change from its liquid form into a billowy solid (see page 423 for more).
When you’re shopping, look for plain, unadulterated heavy cream—many brands have stabilizers added, such as carrageenan, or are put through extreme Ultra-High Temperature (UHT) pasteurization that affects how the cream will whip. For the most heavenly whipped cream, buy pure cream whenever possible.
Steep and spike it with any of the flavors listed below to customize it as you like. Pair caramel cream with apple pie, spoon bay leaf cream atop roasted peaches, and combine Toasted Coconut Cream with Bittersweet Chocolate Pudding. For frosting in a hurry, whip Scented Cream just past soft peaks to stiff, and spread it all over a baked, cooled cake. You’ll see, there’s not much that Scented Cream won’t improve.
1 cup heavy cream, chilled
1 1/2 teaspoons granulated sugar
Any one of the flavor options on the next page
Chill a large, deep metal bowl (or the bowl of your standing mixer) and the whisk (or whisk attachment) in the freezer for at least 20 minutes before you begin. When the bowl is chilled, prepare the cream with your chosen flavoring as directed below, then add the sugar.
I prefer to whip cream by hand because it gives me more control, so I’m less likely to overwhip it and end up with butter. If you’d like to use a mixer, run it at a low speed. Whisk until the first soft peaks appear. If using a machine, switch to a handheld whisk and continue to whisk until all the liquid cream has been incorporated and the texture of the cream is uniformly soft and billowy. Taste and adjust sweetness and flavoring as desired. Keep chilled until serving.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 2 days. Use a whisk to bring deflated cream back to soft peaks as needed.
Flavor Options
Add into cream just before whipping:
• For Spiced Cream, add 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom, cinnamon, or nutmeg
• For Vanilla Cream, add scraped seeds from 1/4 vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• For Lemon Cream, add 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest and 1 tablespoon Limoncello liqueur, if desired
• For Orange Cream, add 1/2 teaspoon finely grated orange or mandarin zest and 1 tablespoon Grand Marnier, if desired
• For Rose Cream, add 1 teaspoon rosewater
• For Orange-Flower Cream, add 1/2 teaspoon orange flower water
• For Boozy Cream, add 1 tablespoon Grand Marnier, amaretto, bourbon, framboise, Kahlúa, brandy, or rum
• For Almond Cream, add 1/2 teaspoon almond extract
• For Coffee Cream, add 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder and 1 tablespoon Kahlúa, if desired
Bring half of the cream to a simmer (but no hotter) with any of the below. Steep for the indicated amount of time. Strain, chill, add remaining cream, and then whip as directed on the previous page.
• For Peach Leaf Cream (peach leaves have a heavenly almondlike flavor!), steep 12 gently torn peach leaves for 15 minutes
• For Earl Grey Cream, steep 2 tablespoons Earl Grey tea leaves for 10 minutes
• For Bay Leaf Cream, steep 6 gently torn bay leaves for 15 minutes
Steep 2 hours to overnight in the chilled cream, then strain before whipping as directed on the previous page:
• For Noyau (apricot kernel) Cream, steep 12 apricot kernels, cracked and lightly toasted
• For Toasted Almond or Toasted Hazelnut Cream, steep 1/4 cup (1 1/4 ounces) coarsely chopped nuts
• For Toasted Coconut Cream, steep 1/3 cup (1 1/2 ounces) toasted shredded unsweetened coconut. The coconut will absorb some of the cream, so squeeze out as much cream as you can when straining
• To make Chocolate Cream, scald 1/2 cup of heavy cream with 1 tablespoon sugar in a small saucepot over medium-low heat until you start to see steam, then pour into a bowl over 2 ounces finely chopped bittersweet chocolate. Stir to melt the chocolate and combine. Chill in the fridge until very cold, then combine with 1/2 cup chilled heavy cream and whisk to soft peaks. Serve with Lori’s Chocolate Midnight Cake, Marshmallowy Meringues, Coffee Granita (page 405), or vanilla ice cream.
• To make Caramel Cream, cook 1/4 cup (1 3/4 ounces) sugar and 3 tablespoons water to a dark amber color and stop with 1/2 cup heavy cream (follow the method described on page 423). Add a pinch of salt. Chill in the fridge until very cold, then combine with 1/2 cup chilled heavy cream and whip as directed above. Serve with Apple and Frangipane Tart, Classic Apple Pie, Coffee Granita (page 405), Lori’s Chocolate Midnight Cake, or ice cream.
• To make Tangy Whipped Cream, combine 1/2 cup chilled heavy cream with 3 tablespoons sugar and 1/4 cup sour cream, Greek full-fat yogurt, or crème fraîche (page 113) before whipping as directed above. Serve with Apple and Frangipane Tart, Fresh Ginger and Molasses Cake, or Pumpkin Pie.
• To make dairy-free Coconut Cream, scoop out the solid fat from two cans of coconut milk. Chill and whip as directed above. Save the coconut milk for cooking Jasmine Rice (page 282). Serve the cream with Lori’s Chocolate Midnight Cake, Bittersweet Chocolate Pudding, Chocolate Pudding Pie (page 391), or ice cream.
Salted Caramel Sauce
Makes about 1 1/2 cups
* * *
It’s only fitting to end this book right where it began, with salt making all of the difference. And in caramel sauce, it does. By reducing its bitterness and creating a welcome contrast to its sweetness, a little salt will turn a caramel sauce from something tasty into something inexplicably, mouthwateringly delicious. The only way to know how much salt to add is to add it incrementally, allow it to dissolve, and to taste, again and again. If you get to a point where you can’t tell if the sauce needs more salt or not, then simply remove a spoonful of the caramel from the entire batch, sprinkle a little salt on it, and taste that. If it’s too salty, then you’ll know you’ve reached the limit. If it tastes even better, then go for it and add a little more to the whole batch. You don’t ever have to risk ruining the entire batch if you’re unsure.
6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter
3/4 cup sugar (5 1/4 ounces)
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Salt
Melt the butter in a deep, heavy-duty saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the sugar and increase the heat to high. Don’t worry if the mixture separates and looks broken. Keep the faith—it’ll come back together. Stir until the mixture comes back to a boil, then stop stirring. As the caramel starts to take on color, carefully swirl the pan to encourage even browning. Cook until the sugar is a deep golden brown (i.e., the “smoke alarm” stage illustrated on page 115) and it just barely starts to smoke, about 10 to 12 minutes.
Remove from the heat and immediately whisk in the cream. Take care, because the very hot mixture will bubble up furiously and may splatter. If any lumps of caramel remain, whisk the sauce gently over low heat until they dissolve.
Cool the caramel to lukewarm, then season it with the vanilla and a big pinch of salt. Stir, taste, and adjust the salt as needed. The caramel will thicken as it cools, and I like to serve it closer to room temperature rather than hot off the stove, as it sticks to ice cream and whatever else you want to serve it on better that way. But I can’t lie—it’s pretty darned tasty straight out of the fridge, too.
Cover and refrigerate leftovers for up to 2 weeks. Reheat gently in the microwave or by stirring in a saucepan over very low h
eat.
Serve alongside: Classic Apple Pie, Classic Pumpkin Pie, Apple and Frangipane Tart, Lori’s Chocolate Midnight Cake, Fresh Ginger and Molasses Cake, in a Chocolate-Caramel Meringue Fool, or on top of ice cream.
COOKING LESSONS
Now it’s time to put the lessons of Salt, Fat, Acid, and Heat into daily practice. If you’re not entirely sure where to start, choose a recipe that applies a specific lesson from Part One that intrigued you.
Salt Lessons
Seasoning from Within
Simmered Beans
Any Pasta recipe (pages 288 to 302)
Sage- and Honey-Smoked Chicken
Buttermilk-Marinated Roast Chicken
Spicy Brined Turkey Breast
Layering Salt
Greek Salad (page 230)
Caesar Dressing
Pasta alla Puttanesca (page 294)
Pasta all’Amatriciana (page 294)
Glazed Five-Spice Chicken
Fat Lessons
Emulsions
Tahini Dressing
Pasta Cacio e Pepe
Pasta Alfredo (page 291)
Chicken with Vinegar
Mayonnaise and all of its wonderful variations
Almond and Cardamom Tea Cake
Layering Fat
Blue Cheese Dressing
Beer-Battered Fish with Tartar Sauce
Bittersweet Chocolate Pudding with Scented Cream
Acid Lessons
Layering Acid
Bright Cabbage Slaw
Balsamic Vinaigrette
Any-Other-Citrus Vinaigrette
Caesar Dressing
Blue Cheese Dressing
Pasta alle Vongole
Chicken with Vinegar
Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Wine-Poached Fruit
Heat Lessons
Layering Heat
Grilled Artichokes
Persian-ish Rice
Chicken with Lentil Rice
Roasted Butternut Squash and Brussels Sprouts in Agrodolce
Browning
On the grill: Crispiest Spatchcocked Chicken, Thin or Thick Rib Eye Steak
On the stove: Finger-Lickin’ Pan-Fried Chicken, Chicken with Lentil Rice, Pork Braised with Chilies
In the oven: Roasted Butternut Squash and Brussels Sprouts in Agrodolce, Glazed Five-Spice Chicken
Preserving Tenderness
Scrambled Eggs
Slow-Roasted Salmon
Tuna Confit
Finger-Lickin’ Pan-Fried Chicken
Turning Tough into Tender
Long-Cooked Broccoli Rabe
Simmered Beans
Chicken Confit
Pork Braised with Chilies
A Few Other Lessons
Precise Timing
Boiled Eggs (page 304)
Scrambled Eggs (page 147)
Tuna Confit
Skirt and Rib Eye Steaks
Marshmallowy Meringues
Salted Caramel Sauce
Imprecise Timing
Caramelized Onions (page 254)
Chicken Stock
Simmered Beans
Pasta al Ragù
Pork Braised with Chilies
Knife Skills
Caramelized Onions—slicing (page 254)
Tuscan Bean and Kale Soup—slicing and dicing
Sicilian Chicken Salad—dicing
Kuku Sabzi—chopping greens and herbs
Spatchcocked Chicken—basic butchery
Conveyor Belt Chicken—basic butchery
Herb Salsa—finely chopping herbs and fine dicing
Improvising with Leftovers
Avocado Salad Matrix
Blanched Greens with Goma-Ae Dressing (pages 251 and 258)
Pasta with Broccoli and Bread Crumbs Variations
Kuku Sabzi
Any Tart You Can Dream Up! (page 407)
SUGGESTED MENUS
A Light Persian Lunch:
Crumbled Feta, Sliced Cucumbers, and Warm Pita Bread
Shaved Fennel and Radishes
Kuku Sabzi with Persian Beet Yogurt
Lunch on a Hot Summer Day:
Summer Tomato and Herb Salad
Tuna Confit with Simmered White Beans
Classic Sandwich-and-Salad Situation:
Romaine Lettuce with Creamy Herb Dressing
Sandwiches with Spicy Brined Turkey Breast and Aïoli
Conjuring Hanoi:
Vietnamese Cucumber Salad
Pho Gà (page 333)
Pack-It-Ahead Picnic:
Kale Salad with Parmesan Vinaigrette (page 241)
Sicilian Chicken Salad Sandwiches
Almond and Cardamom Tea Cake
Even Better than Teriyaki:
Asian Slaw (page 225)
Glazed Five-Spice Chicken
Steamed Jasmine Rice (page 282)
Hump Day Pick-Me-Up:
Little Gem Lettuce with Honey-Mustard Vinaigrette (page 240)
Chicken Pot Pie
Garlicky Green Beans
Warming Winter Dinner Party:
Winter Panzanella
Brined Roasted Pork Loin (page 347)
Roasted Parsnips and Carrots (use roasting method on page 263)
Meyer Lemon Salsa
Buttermilk Panna Cotta
Wine-Poached Quince (page 405)
Not-Too-Indian:
Indian-Spiced Salmon (page 311)
Saffron Rice (page 284)
Indian Carrot Raita (page 370)
Indian Garlicky Green Beans
Summer Supper:
Arugula with Lemon Viniagrette
Conveyor Belt Chicken—try cooking it on the grill!
Cherry Tomato Confit
Grilled Corn on the Cob (use grilling method on pages 266 and 267—parboiling is not necessary)
Strawberry Shortcakes (page 393)
Feeling French:
Garden Lettuces with Red Wine Vinaigrette
Finger-Lickin’ Pan-Fried Chicken
Sautéed Asparagus (use sautéing method on page 260)
Classic French Herb Salsa
Rhubarb and Frangipane Tart with Vanilla Cream (pages 400 and 423)
Flavorful Moroccan Feast:
Shaved Carrot Salad with Ginger and Lime
Chickpeas Simmered with Moroccan Spices (page 280 and consult The World of Flavor)
Moroccan Kofta Kebabs (page 357)
Harissa, Charmoula and Herbed Yogurt
Kinda, Sorta, Izakaya:
Blanched Spinach (page 259) with Goma-Ae Dressing
Crispiest Spatchcocked Chicken
Japanese-ish Herb Salsa
Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner:
Bright Cabbage Slaw
Spicy Fried Chicken
Light and Flaky Buttermilk Biscuits
Simmered Black-Eyed Peas
Long-Cooked Collard Greens with Bacon (use long-cooking method)
Bittersweet Chocolate Pudding
A Perfectly Balanced Thanksgiving:
Spatchcocked Thanksgiving Turkey (page 347)
Garlicky Green Beans
Winter Chicories with Balsamic Vinaigrette (page 251)
Roasted Butternut Squash and Brussels Sprouts in Agrodolce
Fried Sage Salsa Verde
Apple and Frangipane Tart with Salted Caramel Sauce
Pumpkin Pie with Tangy Whipped Cream (page 425)
Make-Your-Own-Taco Party:
Avocado and Citrus Salad with Macerated Onions and Cilantro (page 217)
Pork Braised with Chilies and Warm Tortillas
Mexican-ish Herb Salsa and crema
Simmered Beans
And Some Suggestions for Dessert . . .
• Apple and Frangipane Tart with Whipped Crème Fraîche (page 113)
• Classic Pumpkin Pie with Tangy Whipped Cream (page 425)
• Apple Pie with Caramel Cream (page 425)
• Almond Milk Granita (page 404) with Toasted Almond Cream (page 424)
•
Coffee Granita (page 405) with Chocolate Cream (page 424)
• Blood Orange Granita (page 404) with Earl Grey Cream (page 424)
• Roasted Apricots (page 406) with Noyau Cream (page 424)
• Poached Pears (page 405) with Salted Caramel Sauce (page 426)
• Peach Compote with Peach Leaf Cream (page 424)
• Lori’s Chocolate Midnight Cake with Coffee Cream (page 423)
• Fresh Ginger and Molasses Cake with Tangy Whipped Cream (page 425)
• Almond and Cardamom Tea Cake with Nectarine Compote
• Mexican Chocolate Pudding (page 417) with Spiced Cream (page 423)
• Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Peach and Vanilla Bean Compote (page 407)
• Cardamom Panna Cotta (page 419) with Rose-Scented Berries (page 407)
• Citrus Panna Cotta (page 419) with Kumquat Compote (page 407)
TIPS FOR FURTHER READING
Once you become familiar with a writer or chef, and know that his or her recipes work, add her to your database of trusted sources. These are the chefs and writers I look to when searching for new recipes online or in books.
For dishes from around the world: Cecilia Chiang and Fuschia Dunlop (China), Julia Child and Richard Olney (France), Madhur Jaffrey and Niloufer Ichaporia King (Indian Subcontinent), Najmieh Batmanglij (Iran), Ada Boni and Marcella Hazan (Italy), Nancy Singleton Hachisu and Shizuo Tsuji (Japan), Yotam Ottolenghi, Claudia Roden, and Paula Wolfert (Mediterranean), Diana Kennedy and Maricel Presilla (Mexico), Andy Ricker and David Thompson (Thailand), Andrea Nguyen and Charles Phan (Vietnam).