Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat
Page 39
Tender Beans, 348
Tuscan Bean and Kale Soup, 228, 232, 274–75
Tuscan Bread, Bean, and Kale Soup (Ribollita), 258, 275, 281
Tuscan Pasta and Bean Soup (Pasta e Fagioli), 275, 281
Beard, James, 21, 131
Beef:
basic braising times, 351
beef fat, 69
Beef Stock, 271
best braising cuts, 350
Pasta al Ragö, 297–99
Steak, 354–55
Beer-Battered Fish, 140, 224, 312–13
Beets:
Avocado Salad with Heirloom Tomato and Cucumber, 218–23
Persian Beet Yogurt (Mast-o-Laboo), 373
Bitterness, 26, 124, 152
Bittersweet Chocolate Pudding, 178, 391, 416–17, 422
Blanching, 37, 156, 168–69, 258–59, 302
Blond onions, 254, 255
Blue Cheese Dressing, 113, 249
Blumenthal, Heston, 312
Boiled meat, 158
Boiling eggs, 303–5, 314, 378
Boiling water, 137, 156, 157, 160, 168, 284
Boneless Pork Loin, 347
Boozy Cream, 423
Borani Esfenaj (Persian Spinach Yogurt), 372
Braising, 37, 148, 156, 163–67
from around world, 350
basic times for, 350
best cuts for, 350
Bread Crumb Salsa, 360
Bread Tahdig, 287
Breaded Fish or Shrimp, 329
Bright Cabbage Slaw, 119, 128, 178, 224, 240, 348
Brining, 31, 185
Broccoli:
Pasta with Beans and Broccoli, 296
Pasta with Broccoli and Bread Crumbs, 295–96
Pasta with Sausage and Broccoli, 296
Broccoli Rabe, Spicy, with Ricotta Salata, 264–65
Broiling, 156, 177–78
Brothy soups, 272–74
Brown butter, 67
Brown Butter Vinaigrette, 67, 232, 234, 241
Brown rice, 283
Browned onions, 254, 255, 259
Browning, 64, 115, 126, 142, 146–47, 149–50, 154, 156, 164, 173, 175, 176, 180, 183, 184, 430
Brussels sprouts:
Butternut Squash and Brussels Sprouts in Agrodolce, 262–63
Butter, 67–68, 78, 83–84, 88, 90, 92, 94–97, 140. (see also Doughs and batters)
Butter cakes, 95–96
Butter sauce, 83–84
Buttermilk:
Buttermilk Biscuits, 392–93
Buttermilk-Marinated Roast Chicken, 321, 340–41
Buttermilk Panna Cotta, 406, 407, 418–19
Butternut Squash and Brussels Sprouts in Agrodolce, 262–63
Cabbage:
Bright Cabbage Slaw, 119, 128, 178, 224, 240, 348
Caesar Dressing, 50, 198, 247, 374
Caesar Salad, 48–49, 119
Cakes, 187
Almond and Cardamom Tea Cake, 407, 414–15
butter cakes, 95–96
Chocolate Midnight Cake, 94, 98
Fresh Ginger and Molasses Cake, 94, 407
Lori’s Chocolate Midnight Cake, 180, 410–11, 424
Calcium sulfate, 25
Canola oil, 78
Caprese Salad, 229
Caramel:
caramel candy, 142–43
Caramel Cream, 389–92, 421, 425
Salted Caramel Sauce, 126, 150, 421, 426–27
Caramelization, 115, 116, 138, 143, 262
Caramelized Onion Tart, 127, 254
Caramelized onions, 254, 255, 399
Cardamom Panna Cotta, 419
Carrots:
Indian Carrot Raita, 370–71
Shaved Carrot Salad with Ginger and Lime, 226–27, 357
Carryover, 151–52, 162, 168, 178
Casein, 113
Catalan Pepper Sauce (Romesco), 379–81
Cecchini, Dario, 10, 131, 344
Cellulose, 112, 141
Cervantes, 124
Chard, 141, 258–69
Persian Herb and Greens Frittata (Kuku Sabzi), 101, 258, 286, 304, 306–9, 356
Charmoula, 281, 367
Cheese (see specific recipes)
Cheesy Torn Croutons, 237
Chemical reaction, 136
Chez Panisse, Berkeley, 17–18, 30, 52, 57, 88, 102–3, 131, 132, 163, 165, 177, 192, 199, 215, 336, 338, 412
Chicken, 316–43
basic braising times, 351
best braising cuts, 350
breaking down whole, 318–19
Buttermilk-Marinated Roast Chicken, 321, 340–41
Chicken and Garlic Soup, 332–33
Chicken Confit, 140, 271, 277, 326–27
chicken fat, 69, 70
Chicken Pot Pie, 322–24, 386
Chicken Stock, 26, 207, 271, 320, 322, 323, 332, 334, 336, 338, 359
Chicken with Lentil Rice (Adas Polo o Morgh), 254, 281, 334–35
Chicken with Vinegar, 113, 117, 336–37
Classic Fried Chicken, 321
Conveyor Belt Chicken, 325, 359
cooking methods, 148, 151, 155, 174, 175, 176, 188
Crispiest Spatchcocked Chicken, 186, 316–17, 382
Curried Chicken Salad, 343
Finger-Lickin’ Pan-Fried Chicken, 99, 174, 328–29
Glazed Five-Spice Chicken, 73, 117, 178, 259, 338–39
Indian-Spiced Fried Chicken, 321
Persian Roast Chicken, 286, 287, 341
Personal Pot Pies, 324
Poultry Ragö, 299
recipes, 316–43
Sage- and Honey-Smoked Chicken, 140, 178, 330–31, 343
seasoning, 38
Sicilian Chicken Salad, 342–43
Spicy Fried Chicken, 224, 259, 320–21
Spring Garlic Soup, 333
Vietnamese Chicken Soup (Pho Gà), 159, 333
Chickpeas, 141
Child, Julia, 83
Chipotle Mayonnaise, 377
Chocolate, 126
Bittersweet Chocolate Pudding, 178, 391, 416–17, 422
Chocolate-Caramel Meringue Fool, 421
Chocolate-Cardamom Pudding, 417
Chocolate Cream, 424
Chocolate Midnight Cake, 94, 98, 180, 407
Chocolate Pudding Pie, 195, 386, 391, 417
Lori’s Chocolate Midnight Cake, 180, 410–11, 424
Mexican Chocolate Pudding, 417
Chunky soups, 272, 274–75
Chutney, Indian Coconut-Cilantro, 277, 368
Citrus Panna Cotta, 419
Citrus Salmon, 311
Citrus Vinaigrette, 118, 219
Clams:
Pasta alle Vongole, 120–24, 160, 171, 258, 300–302
White and Red Clam Sauce, 302
Clarified butter, 68, 328, 329
Classic Apple Pie, 386, 388–89
Classic Egg Drop Soup, 274
Classic French Herb Salsa, 362
Classic Fried Chicken, 321
Classic Italian Salsa Verde, 361
Classic Pumpkin Pie, 390
Classic Sandwich Mayo, 225, 374, 375
Classic Southern Slaw, 224, 225, 375
Classic Torn Croutons, 237
Coagulation, 31, 112–13, 147, 148, 162
Coconut:
Coconut Cream, 424, 425
coconut oil, 68
Indian Coconut-Cilantro Chutney, 277, 368
Coddling, 156, 161
Coffee, 126
Coffee Cream, 423–24
Coffee Granita, 405, 424
Collagen, 114, 148, 159
Collard greens, 258
Color, acid and, 111
Compote, 407, 415, 419, 421
Conduction, 182, 183
Confit, 140, 156, 172
Artichoke Confit, 257
Cherry Tomato Confit, 256–57
Chicken Confit, 140, 271, 277, 326–27
Duck Confit, 327
Pork Confit, 327
Tomato Confit, 140
Tuna
Confit, 82, 140, 221, 314–15, 359, 379
Turkey Confit, 327
Convection oven, 182, 183
Conveyor Belt Chicken, 325, 359
Cooking acids, 117–18
Cooking methods:
bain-marie (water bath), 156, 161–62
baking, 154–55, 156, 179–81
blanching, 37, 156, 168–69, 258–59, 302
boiling, 137, 156, 157, 160, 168, 284, 303–5, 314, 378
braising (see Braising)
broiling, 156, 177–78
coddling, 156, 161
confit (see Confit)
deep-frying, 75, 78, 156, 173–76, 188
frying, 173–76, 312–13
grilling, 156, 177–78, 266–67, 354
pan-frying, 75, 76, 173–75
poaching (see Poaching)
reducing, 156, 169–70
roasting, 156, 182–86, 262–63, 406
sautéing, 75, 76, 156, 173–75, 260–61
searing, 75, 156, 176, 186
shallow-frying, 75, 76, 156, 173–75
simmering, 37, 156, 157–60, 165
smoking, 330–31
steaming, 156, 170–71, 282
stewing, 148, 156, 163–65
sweating, 138, 156, 172–73
toasting, 156, 181
Corn:
Silky Sweet Corn Soup, 138, 173, 254, 276–77, 359
Cream biscuits, 90
Cream of tartar, 113
Creaming, 95
Creamy Asparagus and Mint Pasta, 291
Creamy Herb Dressings, 248
Creamy salad dressings, 239, 247–53
Creamy texture, 62, 80–87
Crème fraîche, 113, 248, 249, 294, 341, 406, 407
Crisco, 92
Crisp texture, 61, 74, 75–79
Crispiest Spatchcocked Chicken, 186, 316–17, 382
Croutons, 231, 232, 234–37
Cucumbers:
Avocado Salad with Heirloom Tomato and Cucumber, 215–23
Tomato, Basil, and Cucumber Salad, 231
Vietnamese Cucumber Salad, 227
Cumin, 46
Curried Chicken Salad, 343
David, Elizabeth, 41
Davis, Nekisia, 402
Deep-frying, 75, 78, 156, 173–76, 188
Dehydrating, 137, 156, 180–81
Denaturation, 31, 113–14
Desserts (see Sweets)
Dextrose, 22
Diamond Crystal Kosher salt, 24, 25, 206
Diffusion, 29–30, 36, 39
Direct heat, 178
Doughs and batters, 385–99
Aaron’s Tart Dough, 93, 180, 395–96
acid and, 113
All-Butter Pie Dough, 83, 322, 386–87
Apple and Frangipane Tart, 397–99
Bittersweet Chocolate Pudding, 391
Buttermilk Biscuits, 392–93
Chocolate Pudding Pie, 195, 386, 391
Classic Apple Pie, 386, 388–89
Classic Pumpkin Pie, 390
fat and, 70, 88–93
Frito Misto, 313, 329
Fruit Cobbler, 393–94
Gluten-Free Batter, 313
recipes, 385–99
salt and, 34
Shortcakes, 393
Duck, 77
cooking methods, 172
Duck Confit, 327
duck fat, 70
Dutch ovens, 205
Earl Grey Cream, 424
Earthiness, 64
Eggs, 303–9
acid and, 112–13
Classic Egg Drop Soup, 274
cooking methods, 161, 303–4
Eight-Minute Eggs, 221
recipes, 303–9
Roman Egg Drop Soup (Stracciatella), 273, 304
salt and, 33
scrambled, 147
Emulsions, 80–83, 429
breaking and fixing, 84–85
Equipment, kitchen, 205
Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking (Hazan), 42
Everyday olive oils, 66
Fat, 55, 56–99, 193, 196, 200
balancing, 98
butter, 67–68, 78, 83–84, 88, 90, 92, 94–97, 140
cooking with, 172–76
defined, 60
doughs and batters and, 70, 88–93
emulsions, 80–85, 429
flavor and, 64–71
heat and, 76, 140
improvising with, 99, 128–29, 190
layering, 98, 429
limiting consumption of, 60
olive oil, 57–59, 65–67, 73, 78
pan surfaces, 74
roles of, 61–62
salt and, 32
smoke points, 78
sources of, 61, 63
texture and (see Texture)
World of Fat, 72–73, 99
Fattoush, 232, 240
Fava Bean and Dill Rice, 287
Feel, measuring heat and, 189
Fennel:
Shaved Fennel and Radishes Salad, 228, 242, 311
Fermentation, 115–16
Feta:
Asparagus and Feta with Mint Salad, 235
Meyer Lemon and Feta Relish, 366
Finger-Lickin’ Pan-Fried Chicken, 99, 174, 328–29
Finishing olive oils, 66
Fish and seafood, 310–15
Beer-Battered Fish, 140, 224, 312–13
Breaded Fish or Shrimp, 329
Citrus Salmon, 311
cooking methods, 174, 176, 181–82, 187
Indian-Spiced Slow Roasted Salmon, 259, 311
Pasta alle Vongole, 120–24, 160, 171, 258, 300–302
Pasta with Clams and Sausage, 301
Pasta with Mussels, 301
recipes, 310–15
salt and, 32
Slow-Roasted Salmon, 140, 221, 238, 242, 286, 287, 310–11
Soy-Glazed Salmon, 311
Tuna Confit, 82, 221, 314–15, 359, 379
Flaky texture, 62, 74, 88–93, 385
Flavor:
acid and, 106–8
aromatic flavor bases of the World, 352–53
defined, 26
fat and, 64–71
heat and, 151–52
salt and, 21, 22, 26, 27, 164
World of Flavor, 46, 159, 164, 192, 194
Flavored olive oils, 66
Fleming, Claudia, 418
Fleur de sel, 23, 25
Folding, 96
Freezer burn, 137
Fresh Ginger and Molasses Cake, 94, 407, 412–13
Fried Sage Salsa Verde, 331, 361
Frittata:
Persian Herb and Greens Frittata (Kuku Sabzi), 101, 258, 286, 304, 306–9, 356
Fritto Misto, 313, 329
Fruits, 33, 404–9
Fruit Cobbler, 393–94
Fruit Compote, 407, 415, 419, 421
Granita, 404–5
poaching in wine, 405–6
roasting, 406
Frying, 173–76, 312–13
Frying eggs, 303
Frying pans, 205
Garlic:
Aïoli (Garlic Mayonnaise), 267, 314, 374, 376
Chicken and Garlic Soup, 332–33
Garlicky Green Beans, 73, 259, 261
Spring Garlic Soup, 333
turning into paste, 210
Gelatin, 148, 159
Gentle heat, 156, 344
Ginger:
Fresh Ginger and Molasses Cake, 94, 407, 412–13
Shaved Carrot Salad with Ginger and Lime, 226–27, 357
Glazed Five-Spice Chicken, 73, 117, 178, 259, 338–39
Gliadin, 88
Glutamates, 124
Gluten, 34, 88, 385
Gluten development, 88, 90, 92, 94
Gluten-Free Batter, 313
Glutenin, 88
Goma-Ae (Japanese sesame seed dressing), 251, 259
Goose fat, 70
Grains, 141
cooking, 169, 188, 282–84
Grain Salad, 232, 240, 241
recipes, 280–302<
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Granita, 219, 404–5
Granola:
Nekisia’s Olive Oil and Sea Salt Granola, 402–3
Grapeseed oil, 78
Greek Salad, 230, 240
Green beans, 35
Garlicky Green Beans, 73, 259, 261
Green Goddess Dressing, 238, 250
Grigson, Jane, 131
Grilled cheese sandwich, 134, 135
Grilling, 156, 177–78, 266–67, 354
Grits, 283, 284
Ground (milled) grains, 141
Harissa (North African Pepper Sauce), 281, 379, 380
Hazan, Marcella, 42, 131
Hazelnut oil, 68
Heaney, Seamus, 83
Hearing, measuring heat and, 189
Heat, 37, 55, 130–90, 193, 200
browning, 64, 115, 126, 142, 146–47, 149–50, 154, 156, 164, 173, 175, 176, 180, 183, 184, 430
carbohydrates and, 141–43, 146
defined, 134
fat and, 76, 140
flavor and, 151–52
gentle versus intense, 156
improvising with, 190
layering, 186–87, 430
measuring, 187–89
ovens, 154–56
power of steam, 138–39
proteins and, 147–48
science of, 136
sensory cues and, 187–89
water and, 137
Herb Mayonnaise, 374, 376
Herb Salsa, 65, 68, 111, 262, 280, 281, 325, 326, 359–66
Herbed Rice, 287
Herbed Yogurt, 287
High-heat baking, 156, 180
Honey-Mustard Vinaigrette, 240, 267, 326
Hyman, Aaron, 93, 395
Improvising:
with acid, 128–29, 190
with fat, 99, 128–29, 190
with heat, 190
with salt, 55, 99, 128–29, 190
Indian Carrot Raita, 370–71
Indian Coconut-Cilantro Chutney, 277, 368
Indian-Spiced Fried Chicken, 321
Indian-Spiced Slow-Roasted Salmon, 259, 311
Indirect heat, 178, 330, 331
Intense heat, 156, 344
Iodine, 22
Japanese-ish Herb Salsa, 365
Jasmine rice, 282, 283, 338
Kale, 141, 258
Tuscan Bean and Kale Soup, 228, 232, 274–75
Tuscan Bread, Bean, and Kale Soup (Ribollita), 258, 275
Kitchen basics, 204–13
Kitchen tools, 205
Knife cuts, 212
Knives, 205
Kosher salt, 23–25, 206
Kufte Kebabs, 286, 287, 356–57, 379
Kuku Sabzi (Persian Herb and Greens Frittata), 101, 258, 286, 304, 306–9, 356
Kumquats:
Kumquat Salsa, 311
Kumquat Vinaigrette, 244
Lamb:
basic braising times, 351
best braising cuts, 350
Kufte Kebabs, 286, 287, 356–57, 379
lamb fat, 70
Laminated doughs, 90
Lard, 69, 70, 140
Larding, 69
Last Course, The (Fleming), 418
Layering, 196
acid, 117–23
fat, 98
heat, 186–87
salt, 48–49, 50
Leavenings, 95, 96, 112
Lebanese Pepper and Walnut Spread (Muhammara), 379, 381