by Samin Nosrat
Lecithin, 82
Lee, Chris, 18, 155, 336
Legumes, 33–34, 141
Lemon, 105
Lemon-Anchovy Vinaigrette, 242
Lemon Cream, 423
Lemon Vinaigrette, 228, 242
Meyer Lemon and Feta Relish, 366
Meyer Lemon and Olive Relish, 366
Meyer Lemon Salsa, 311, 366
Lentils:
Chicken with Lentil Rice (Adas Polo o Morgh), 281, 334–35
Lewis, Edna, 344
Light salad dressings, 239, 240–46
Light texture, 62, 74, 95–96
Lime:
Lime Vinaigrette, 226, 230, 243
Peanut-Lime Dressing, 253
Shaved Carrot Salad with Ginger and Lime, 226–27, 357
Long cooking, 264–65
Lori’s Chocolate Midnight Cake, 180, 410–11, 424
Low-heat baking, 156, 179–81
Macerate, 118, 224, 238
Magic Dust, 399
Magnesium chloride, 25
Maillard, Louis Camille, 115
Maillard reaction, 115, 116, 138, 149, 164, 171, 176, 177, 181, 184, 262
Maldon salt, 23, 25
Marbling, 71
Marmalade, 146
Marshmallowy Meringues, 179, 420–21
Mast-o-Laboo (Persian Beet Yogurt), 373
Mayonnaise, 82, 84–85, 374
Aïoli (Garlic Mayonnaise), 267, 314, 374, 376
Basic Mayonnaise, 303, 367, 375
Chipotle Mayonnaise, 377
Classic Sandwich Mayo, 374, 375
fixing broken, 87, 375
Herb Mayonnaise, 374, 376
making, 86
Rouille (Pepper Mayonnaise), 374, 377, 379
McGee, Harold, 147, 404
McPhee, John, 107
Meat, 344–57
cooking methods, 156, 158–59, 163–65, 165–67, 172, 173, 176–79, 181, 183, 185–86, 354–55
ground meat, 345
heat and, 148, 149, 151, 344, 354–55
recipes, 344–57
recipes (see Beef: Pork; Lamb)
resting meat, 178–79, 355
salt and, 30–32
Meatiness, 64
Meats
simmering, 158–59
Menu suggestions, 432–35
Meringues:
Marshmallowy Meringues, 179, 420–21, 424
Meringue Fool, 421
Mexi Slaw, 225
Mexican Chocolate Pudding, 417
Mexican-ish Herb Salsa, 277, 348, 349, 363
Meyer Lemon and Feta Relish, 366
Meyer Lemon and Olive Relish, 366
Meyer Lemon Salsa, 311, 366
Mint:
Asparagus and Feta with Mint Salad, 235
Mint Salsa Verde, 267, 361
Snap Peas with Chilies and Mint, 260
Mirepoix, 352
Miso-Mustard Dressing, 252
Moroccan Kofta, 357
Morton iodized salt, 22
Morton Kosher salt, 24, 206
MSG (monosodium glutamate), 124
Muhammara (Lebanese Pepper and Walnut Spread), 379, 381
Mushrooms, 33
Mussels:
Pasta with Mussels, 301
Nekisia’s Olive Oil and Sea Salt Granola, 402–3
Niman, Bill, 346
Noodles (see Pasta)
North African Charmoula, 367
Noyau (apricot kernel) Cream, 424
Nut oils, 68
Nuttiness, 64
Oils (see Fat)
Olive oil, 57–59, 65–67, 73, 78
Oliver, Mary, 187
Onions, 112, 118, 123
cooking, 254–55
macerated, 221, 263
slicing and dicing, 208–9
Oranges:
Orange Cream, 423
Orange-Flower Cream, 423
Orange Granita, 405
Oranges (McPhee), 107
Osmosis, 29–30, 33, 139
Oven spring, 180
Ovens, 154–56
Oxidation, 111
Palmful of salt, 44
Pan-frying, 75, 76, 173–75
Pan surfaces, 74
Pancetta, 69
Panko, 328
Pantry items, 207
Panzanella (see Salads)
Parchment paper, 170, 171, 173
Parmesan, 123, 124
Parmesan Vinaigrette, 241
Parsley, chopping, 211, 213
Pasta, 288–302
cooking methods, 160, 169
Creamy Asparagus and Mint Pasta, 291
five classic, 288–302
Pasta al Ragö, 157, 297–99
Pasta Alfredo, 195, 291
Pasta alla Pomarola, 293–94
Pasta alla Puttanesca, 294
Pasta all’Amatriciana, 99, 294
Pasta alle Vongole, 120–24, 160, 171, 258, 300–302
Pasta Cacio e Pepe, 46, 55, 84, 290–91
Pasta e Fagioli (Tuscan Pasta and Bean Soup), 275, 281
Pasta with Beans and Broccoli, 296
Pasta with Broccoli and Bread Crumbs, 295–96
Pasta with Clams and Sausage, 301
Pasta with Mussels, 301
Pasta with Sausage and Broccoli, 296
recipes, 280–302
Pavlovas, 420, 421
Peaches:
Peach and Vanilla Bean Compote, 407
Peach Leaf Cream, 424
Peanut-Lime Dressing, 253
Peanut oil, 78
Pectin, 33, 112, 141, 146
Pépin, Jacques, 215, 340
Pepper, 46–47
Pepper Mayonnaise (Rouille), 374, 377, 379
Pepper Paste, 377, 379, 380
Pepper Sauce, 379–81
Persian Beet Yogurt (Mast-o-Laboo), 373
Persian Herb and Cucumber Yogurt, 334, 335, 357, 371
Persian Herb and Greens Frittata (Kuku Sabzi), 101, 258, 286, 304, 306–9, 356
Persian-ish Rice, 168, 285–86, 325, 357
Persian Pavlovas, 421
Persian Roast Chicken, 286, 287, 341
Persian Shirazi Salad, 215, 230
Persian Spinach Yogurt (Borani Esfenaj), 372
Personal Pot Pies, 324
Pesto, 288, 382–84
Peternell, Cal, 18–19, 54, 124
pH scale, 105, 106, 108–9
Pho Gà (Vietnamese Chicken Soup), 159, 333
Pie dough, 90–93
Pies (see Sweets)
Pinch of salt, 45
Plant anatomy, 141, 144–45
Poaching, 37, 156, 160, 161, 165
eggs, 161, 304
fruits, 405–6
Podraza, Lori, 410
Polenta, 283, 284
Pollan, Michael, 82, 178, 330
Pork, 344–45
basic braising times, 351
best braising cuts, 350
Boneless Pork Loin, 347
Pasta al Ragö, 297–99
Pork Braised with Chilies, 118, 348–49
Pork Confit, 327
pork fat, 59, 69
Pork Schnitzel, 329
Porridges, 159
“Pot Roast” (Strand), 163
Potatoes, 141, 143
Poultry (see Chicken; Turkey)
Poultry Ragö, 117, 299
Pound cake, 95
Preserves, 146
Prosciutto, 32
Puddings (see Sweets)
Pumpkin seed oil, 68
Pumpkin Seed Salsa, 363
Purtill, Tom, 392
Quinoa, 283
Radiant heat, 182, 183
Radicchio, Roasted, and Roquefort Salad, 234
Radishes:
Shaved Fennel and Radishes Salad, 228, 242, 311
Recaito, 353
Recipes, 198–200, 214–427
beans, grains, and pasta, 280–302
chicken, 316–43
doughs and batters, 385–99
eggs, 303–9
/> fish and seafood, 310–15
meat, 344–57
salad dressings, 238–53
salads, 215–37 (see also Slaw)
sauces, 358–84
soups, 272–79
stock, 270–72
sweets, 402–27
vegetables, 254–69
Red Wine Vinaigrette, 230, 232, 235, 240
Reducing, 156, 169–70
Rendering, 77–78, 140, 185
Resting meat, 178–79, 355
Reverse osmosis, 30
Rib eye steak, 354
Ribollita (Tuscan Bread, Bean, and Kale Soup), 258, 275, 281
Rice:
Chicken with Lentil Rice (Adas Polo o Morgh), 254, 281, 334–35
cooking, 282–83
Fava Bean and Dill Rice, 287
Herbed Rice, 287
Persian-ish Rice, 168, 285–86, 325, 357
Saffron Rice, 287
Steamed Jasmine Rice, 338
Rice Wine Vinaigrette, 225, 246
Ricotta:
Ricotta and Tomato Salad Toasts, 195, 230, 382
Spicy Broccoli Rabe with Ricotta Salata, 264–65
Risotto, 160, 282, 284
Roasted Radicchio and Roquefort Salad, 234
Roasted Squash, Sage, and Hazelnut Salad, 232–33
Roasting, 156, 182–86, 262–63, 406
Robertson, Chad, 115–16
Rock salt, 20, 22
Rodgers, Judy, 27, 198
Rolled oats, 282, 284
Roman Egg Drop Soup (Stracciatella), 273, 304
Romesco (Catalan Pepper Sauce), 379–81
Rose Cream, 423
Rose-Scented Berries, 407, 421
Rouille (Pepper Mayonnaise), 374, 377, 379
Saffron Rice, 287
Saffron tea, 287, 356
Sage- and Honey-Smoked Chicken, 140, 178, 330–31, 343
Salad dressings, 238–53. (see also Vinaigrette dressings)
Blue Cheese Dressing, 113, 249
Caesar Dressing, 50, 198, 247
creamy, 239, 247–53
Creamy Herb Dressing, 248
Goma-Ae (Japanese sesame seed dressing), 251, 259
Green Goddess Dressing, 238, 250
light, 239, 240–46
Miso-Mustard Dressing, 252
Peanut-Line Dressing, 253
recipes, 238–53
Tahini Dressing, 251
Salads, 127, 215–37 (see also Slaw)
Asparagus and Feta with Mint Salad, 235
Avocado and Citrus Salad, 118, 242, 311
Avocado with Heirloom Tomato and Cucumber Salad, 215–23
Bean Salad, 232, 240, 241
Caesar Salad, 48–49, 119
Caprese Salad, 229
croutons, 231, 232, 234–37
Curried Chicken Salad, 343
dressings (see Salad dressings)
Fattoush, 232, 240
Grain Salad, 232, 240, 241
Greek Salad, 230, 240
ideal, 216
Persian Shirazi Salad, 215, 230
recipes, 215–37 (see also Slaw)
Ricotta and Tomato Salad Toasts, 195, 230, 382
Roasted Radicchio and Roquefort Salad, 234
Roasted Squash, Sage, and Hazelnut Salad, 232–33
Shaved Carrot Salad with Ginger and Lime, 226–27, 357
Shaved Fennel and Radishes Salad, 228, 242, 311
Shirazi Salad, 215
Sicilian Chicken Salad, 342–43
Summer Tomato and Herb Salad, 229
Tomato, Basil, and Cucumber Salad, 231
Vietnamese Cucumber Salad, 227, 338
Saliva, 106
Salmon:
Citrus Salmon, 311
Indian-Spiced Slow Roasted Salmon, 259, 311
Slow-Roasted Salmon, 140, 221, 238, 242, 286, 287, 310–11
Soy-Glazed Salmon, 311
Salmoriglio (Sicilian Oregano Sauce), 369
Salsa (see Salsa Verde; Sauces)
Salsa Verde:
Basic, 360–61
Classic Italian Salsa Verde, 361
Fried Sage Salsa Verde, 331, 361
Mint Salsa Verde, 361
Salt, 16–55, 193, 196, 200
balancing, 52–54
basic salting guidelines, 43, 206
calendar of salting, 40
cooking water and, 35–37
defined, 20
doughs and batters and, 34
eggs and, 33
fat and, 32
fish and seafood and, 32
flavor and, 21, 22, 26, 27, 164
improvising with, 55, 99, 128–29, 190
iodized, 22
Kosher salt, 23–25, 206
layering, 48–49, 50, 247, 428
legumes and grains and, 33–34
limiting consumption of, 20
measuring, 41–42
meat and, 30–32
osmosis and diffusion and, 29–30, 33, 36, 39, 139
pepper and, 46–47
recipe examples, 428
salting techniques, 44–45
sea salt, 20, 22, 23, 25, 206
sources of, 51
sugar and, 47
in sweets, 47
table salt, 22, 23
types of, 21–25
vegetables and, 33
Salted Caramel Sauce, 126, 150, 421, 426–27
Saltiness, 26, 124
Sauces, 358–84
Argentinian Chimichurri, 369
Basic Salsa Verde, 360–61
Bread Crumb Salsa, 360
Catalan Pepper Sauce (Romesco), 379–81
Charmoula, 281, 367
Classic French Herb Salsa, 362
Classic Italian Salsa Verde, 361
cooking, 157–58, 162
Fried Sage Salsa Verde, 331, 361
Herb Salsa, 65, 68, 111, 262, 280, 281, 325, 326, 359–66
Indian Carrot Raita, 370–71
Indian Coconut-Cilantro Chutney, 277, 368
Japanese-ish Herb Salsa, 365
Kumquat Salsa, 311
Lebanese Pepper and Walnut Spread (Muhammara), 379, 381
mayonnaise (see Mayonnaise), 82, 84–85, 374
Mexican-ish Herb Salsa, 277, 348, 349, 363
Meyer Lemon and Feta Relish, 366
Meyer Lemon and Olive Relish, 366
Meyer Lemon Salsa, 311, 366
Mint Salsa Verde, 361
North African Pepper Sauce (Harissa), 281, 379, 380
Pepper Paste, 377, 379
Pepper Sauce, 379–81
Persian Beet Yogurt (Mast-o-Laboo), 373
Persian Herb and Cucumber Yogurt, 334, 335, 357, 371
Persian Spinach Yogurt (Borani Esfenaj), 372
Pesto, 288, 382–84
Pumpkin Seed Salsa, 363
recipes, 358–84
Salted Caramel Sauce, 126, 150, 421, 426–27
Sicilian Oregano Sauce (Salmoriglio), 369
Southeast Asian ish Herb Salsa, 364
Tartar Sauce, 313, 329, 374, 378
White and Red Clam Sauce, 302
Yogurt Sauce, 262, 281, 370
Sausage:
Pasta with Clams and Sausage, 301
Pasta with Sausage and Broccoli, 296
Sausage Ragö, 299
Sautéing, 75, 76, 156, 173–75, 260–61
Scented Cream, 399, 405–7, 417, 421, 422–25
Schmaltz, 70
Scrambled eggs, 147, 304
Sea salt, 20, 22, 23, 25, 206
Seafood (see Fish and seafood)
Searing, 75, 156, 176, 186
Seasoning:
in advance, 30, 31, 37
chicken, 38
fat as, 62
food from within, 27, 30, 37, 164, 428
salt (see Salt)
to taste, 28
Seawater, 22, 36
Seed oils, 68
Seeds, 141
Sel gris, 23, 25
Senses, five, 132
Sesame oil, 68
Shallow-frying, 75, 76, 156, 173–75
Shaved Carrot Salad with Ginger and Lime, 226–27, 357
Shaved Fennel and Radishes Salad, 228, 242, 311
Short doughs, 88
Shortbread, 94
Shortbread cookies, 90
Shortcakes, 393
Shortening, 88, 92
Sicilian Chicken Salad, 342–43
Siew-Chin, 420
Sight, measuring heat and, 187–88
Silky Sweet Corn Soup, 138, 173, 254, 276–77, 359
Simmering, 37, 156, 157–160, 165
Skirt steak, 354
Slaw:
Alterna-Slaw, 225
Asian Slaw, 225
Bright Cabbage Slaw, 119, 128, 178, 224, 240, 348
Classic Southern Slaw, 224, 225, 375
Mexi-Slaw, 225
Slow-Roasted Salmon, 140, 221, 238, 242, 286, 287, 310–11
Slow roasting, 148, 156, 181–82
Smell, measuring heat and, 188
Smoke, flavor of, 153
Smoke points, 78, 185
Smoking, 330–31
Smooth (puréed) soups, 272–73, 276–79
Snap Peas with Chilies and Mint, 260
Sodium chloride, 20
Soffritto, 352
Sofregit, 352
Solar sea salts, 25
Soups:
categories of, 272–73
Chicken and Garlic Soup, 332–33
Classic Egg Drop Soup, 274
recipes, 272–79
Roman Egg Drop Soup (Stracciatella), 273
Silky Sweet Corn Soup, 138, 173, 254, 276–77, 359
Spring Garlic Soup, 333
Tuscan Bean and Kale Soup, 228, 232, 274–75
Tuscan Bread, Bean, and Kale Soup (Ribollita), 258, 275, 281
Tuscan Pasta and Bean Soup (Pasta e Fagioli), 275, 281
Vietnamese Chicken Soup (Pho Gà), 159, 333
Sourness, 26, 101, 107, 124
Southeast Asian-ish Herb Salsa, 364
Soy-Glazed Salmon, 311
Spatchcocked Thanksgiving Turkey, 347
Spatchcocking, 270, 316
Spiced Cream, 423
Spices, 46–47
Spicy-Brined Turkey Breast, 31, 346–47, 375
Spicy Broccoli Rabe with Ricotta Salata, 264–65
Spicy Fried Chicken, 224, 259, 320–21
Spinach:
Persian Spinach Yogurt (Borani Esfenaj), 372
Spit-roasting, 155, 182
Sponge cake, 95
Spoons, 205
Spring Garlic Soup, 333
Spring Panzanella, 235, 240
Sprinkling Crumbs, 237, 281, 295, 302, 360, 380
Squash, Roasted, Sage, and Hazelnut Salad, 232–33
Starches, 141–42, 159–60
Steak, 354–55
Steam, power of, 138–39
Steamed Jasmine Rice, 338
Steaming, 156, 170–71, 282
Steamy sauté, 171
Steel-cut oats, 283, 284
Stewing, 148, 156, 163–65
Stews:
from around world, 350
Stir-frying, 78, 173
Stock, 270–72
Stracciatella (Roman Egg Drop Soup), 273, 304
Strand, Mark, 163, 164
Strawberry Compote, 393
Stripey peel, 220, 227, 231
Suet, 69, 70