Get Cooking
Page 16
½ pound firm tofu, cut into ½-inch cubes
1/3 cup minced fresh cilantro
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GET CREATIVE
Add 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger to the sauce along with the curry paste. Or add two slices of ginger (about ¼-inch-thick; no need to peel it) along with the curry paste; remove and discard the ginger slices just before serving.
Add a handful of fresh basil leaves (regular or Thai basil), roughly chopped or sliced into strips, instead of, or in addition to, the cilantro.
Top each serving with whole or chopped toasted cashews or roasted peanuts.
Add other vegetables—for example, unpeeled slices of a long, thin eggplant, or some small chunks of peeled butternut squash or sweet potato.
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1. Put the curry paste in a medium-large saucepan, add the coconut milk and broth or bouillon, and whisk until smooth. Add the lemon slice.
2. Set the pan over high heat and bring the mixture to a boil. Then turn the heat all the way down to the lowest possible setting and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. Between stirrings, keep the pan partially covered. About 10 minutes into the simmering, remove and discard the lemon slice.
3. Stir in the fish sauce or soy sauce, along with all the vegetables and the tofu. Bring it back to a boil. Then once again turn the heat all the way down to the lowest possible setting. Simmer, partially covered, for about 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are just tender. Stir in the cilantro at the very last minute, and serve hot, over rice.
vegetable-tofu stir-fry with orange-ginger glaze
Makes 4 servings
Stir-fry is about very high heat and cooking things quickly in a specific order so that every component ends up at just the right degree of doneness at the same time. There are two keys to this. First, have all of your ingredients prepped and close at hand. Second, read the recipe carefully and get a thorough sense of it before you start. The idea is that once you start cooking, it’s continuous—you should never have to stop to search for something or read about what to do next. This beautiful, colorful, and gratifying dish was designed to give you the hang of stir-fry, and it will make you feel like an accomplished cook. There’s a fair amount of preparation—mostly cutting vegetables, which is fun and quick if your knife is good and sharp. But you can do this prep a good hour ahead of time, and you can make the glaze up to several days in advance (store it in a tightly lidded jar in the refrigerator). Once all that’s done, the actual cooking time is just a matter of minutes.
A nice large wok and a metal wok spatula (the kind that looks like a shovel) are best for stir-frying, but a large deep skillet and a serving spoon will work well, too. The first step of this recipe, simmering the tofu for 10 minutes, is optional. I always do it because I like how it firms up the tofu, making it sturdier for stir-frying and a bit more satisfying to bite into. If you like softer tofu and/or want to save a step, just cut it into cubes, skip the simmering, and add it in as directed. Start some rice (see Chapter 7: Sides) before you begin, so it will be ready to eat when the stir-fry is done.
the glaze
This recipe is vegan.
½ cup orange juice (from 1 medium orange)
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon light brown sugar or honey
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 teaspoons minced garlic (2 good-sized cloves)
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon cornstarch
the stir-fry
1 pound firm tofu, cut into ¾-inch cubes
2 tablespoons canola, soy, or peanut oil
1 medium red or yellow onion, cut into large (1½-inch) square pieces
¾ teaspoon salt
2 medium carrots, sliced ¼-inch thick on the diagonal
3 heaping cups cauliflower florets
3 heaping cups chopped broccoli
About 15 mushrooms, stems trimmed if necessary, quartered
2 small zucchini (preferably 1 yellow, 1 green), chopped or diced
1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1-inch squares
1. Combine all the glaze ingredients except the cornstarch in a liquid measuring cup with a spout, and whisk until blended. Place the cornstarch in a small bowl and drizzle in about ¼ cup of the glaze, whisking constantly until the cornstarch is dissolved. (The mixture will be cloudy.) Pour this solution back into the measuring cup, whisking it in. Set aside, leaving the whisk in the cup.
2. Put a large pot of cold water to boil over high heat, and place a colander in the sink. When the water boils, add the tofu and reduce the heat to medium-low. Simmer the tofu for 10 minutes, then gently pour it into the colander and let it drain. Set aside.
3. Have all the cut-up vegetables and the simmered tofu in bowls or containers near the stove. Place a wok or a large, deep skillet over medium heat. After about a minute, add 1 tablespoon of the oil and swirl to coat the pan (or just push the oil around with a wok spatula or serving spoon). Turn the heat to high, add the onion and ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, the carrots, cauliflower, and broccoli, and another ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Keeping the heat high and the vegetables moving, stir-fry for approximately 2 minutes, or until the broccoli turns bright green and shiny.
4. Add the mushrooms and tofu, and the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Keeping the heat high, continue to stir-fry for another minute, stirring all the vegetables up from the bottom of the pan. Add the zucchini and bell pepper, and cook for 1 minute more.
5. Whisk the glaze to reincorporate the cornstarch (it will have settled to the bottom), and then quickly pour the whole cupful into the wok or skillet. Cook, stirring, over high heat for just about 1 minute. The glaze will coat everything and thicken a little. Serve immediately, over rice.
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GET CREATIVE
Garnish with whole or chopped toasted cashews or roasted peanuts.
Scatter some scallion greens, thinly sliced on the diagonal, over the finished dish.
Throw in a handful of snow peas or sugar snap peas along with the bell pepper.
Add up to ½ cup fresh or drained canned pineapple chunks along with the bell pepper.
Add up to 1 tablespoon grated orange zest to the glaze (zest the orange before juicing it).
You can fry the tofu until crisp after it’s simmered: Pat it dry with towels. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat for about a minute, then add 1 tablespoon canola, soy, or peanut oil and swirl to coat the pan. Fry the tofu, turning it occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until it’s brown on all sides. Sprinkle ¼ teaspoon garlic powder and 1 tablespoon soy sauce over the tofu, stir to coat evenly, and cook for another minute.
Pass shaker bottles of soy sauce, chile oil, and toasted sesame oil at the table.
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burgers.
EXCELLENT HOMEMADE HAMBURGERS
TURKEY BURGERS
SALMON BURGERS
TUNA BURGERS
VERY CRISP PANKO-COATED EGGPLANT CUTLETS
BLACK BEAN BURGERS
PORTOBELLO FAUX BURGERS
SPICE-CRUSTED TOFU CUTLETS
How to Build a Burger
It’s no accident that burgers have become the great American default meal. They’re tasty, fast, portable, satisfying, inexpensive, and these days, whether you’re eating out or grocery shopping, you can find a burger form and flavor for every style of eating, from ground beef to turkey to a wider range of meatless options than you might have imagined. If you love burgers and eat them often, over time, you’ll save lots of money by making your own at home.
For the purposes of this chapter, I’m defining burgers as patties or cutlets that are cooked in a skillet and are perfect on a bun with the classic condiments—ketchup, mustard, mayo, pickles, relish, and the like. All of these recipes work well without the bun, too, simply served as an entré
e with or without any of the suggested toppings.
TWO TOOLS FOR BURGER SUCCESS
A good heavy skillet is essential for making burgers. Avoid thin, lightweight frying pans, as they’re likely to char the outside of the burger well before the inside is cooked. The perfect choice? A cast-iron skillet: heavy-bottomed, indestructible, and affordable.
A thin-bladed metal spatula will also make life easier (and your burgers better). Whether you go with a long curved-tip one (with a blade about the shape of a large tongue depressor) or a fish spatula (which has slots running up and down the blade), thin is the operative word. The narrower the blade, the easier it will be to maneuver the spatula around and under the burgers for checking doneness and flipping, as well as for scraping up the good stuff that sticks to the pan.
THE FIRE DRILL
Think of the heat at which you cook burgers—or any food—as part of the seasoning. It really does affect flavor and texture. So pay close attention to the heat level called for in these recipes, just as you would the amount of any ingredient. Keep an eye on the burgers and the burner, and adjust the heat if it looks like the browning is happening too quickly or too slowly.
For most burgers, it’s a good idea to turn on the fan over the stove if you have one, and/or to open the nearest window, so you don’t set off the smoke alarm.
If you have a gas or charcoal grill, by all means use it to cook the Excellent Homemade Hamburgers, the Turkey Burgers, and the Portobello Faux Burgers. Preheat the grill on high (or build a hot charcoal fire—meaning you can hold your hand a few inches above the grill grate for only 2 or 3 seconds, max), and cook the burgers or mushrooms for 4 to 5 minutes on each side. The rest of the burgers in this chapter are best made in a skillet as directed.
The beauty of burgers is that they’re straightforward, simple, and self-contained. Experiment with seasonings, condiments, and different kinds of buns. You really can’t go wrong. So, with that in mind, let’s get flipping.
excellent homemade hamburgers
Makes 4 burgers
These are generous, juicy burgers. Dress them up right with a good roll and condiments, and you’ll eat way better than you would at most burger joints. Keep some uncooked patties, well wrapped, in the freezer so you’ll always have a fall-back plan for dinner. Look for chuck labeled 80/20 or 20% fat. It makes the juiciest, tastiest burgers. Any leaner and you’ll be compromising the flavor. The onion is added for flavor more than texture and should be minced quite fine so it cooks at the same speed as the meat. Ground beef should be cooked all the way through until no longer pink inside. You can check by cutting into a patty with a sharp knife, or if you want to be absolutely sure, use an instant-read thermometer, slid several inches into the burger from the side (not the top). For beef burgers, it should register 160°F.
1 pound ground beef chuck
1/3 cup very finely minced red or yellow onion
½ teaspoon salt (plus extra for the pan)
Freshly ground black pepper
4 burger buns (optional)
Your favorite condiments (any combination of mayonnaise, mustard, ketchup, lettuce, onion, tomato, pickles)
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F or preheat the broiler (this is for the buns).
2. In a large bowl, combine the beef, onion, salt, and about 1/8 teaspoon black pepper. Use your hands to mix gently—just enough to combine. (Don’t squeeze the mixture through your fingers. It will toughen the burgers.) Rinse your hands, wet your hands with cold water, and gently form 4 patties, each about ½-inch thick.
3. Place a large (10-to 12-inch) heavy skillet over medium heat. After about a minute, turn the heat to medium-high, sprinkle a little salt into the pan to make a light, even layer, and add the patties directly on top of the salt. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes on the first side, until deeply browned on the bottom (use a metal spatula to peek, disturbing the burgers as little as possible). If the burgers appear to be browning too quickly, reduce the heat to medium.
4. Use the metal spatula to carefully loosen each burger and flip it over. Cook on the second side for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the meat is no longer pink in the middle and the bottom surfaces are nicely browned.
5. Meanwhile, split the buns, put them on a baking sheet, cut side up, and heat them in the oven or slide them under the broiler to toast the cut sides. Watch carefully so they don’t burn.
6. Spread the cut sides of the buns with some of your chosen condiments (the spreadable ones), put a burger patty on each bun bottom, and top with your other selected condiments (the sliced items) and a bun top. Serve right away.
BURGER BASICS
When making burgers, curb your enthusiasm. Handle the meat as little as possible, mixing it just until everything is combined. The more you work it, the tougher it will be. Shape burgers by forming flat disks, rather than making balls and smashing them down.
Resist the temptation to fiddle with burgers as they cook. They’ll form a beautiful crust when simply left alone, so avoid moving them around in the pan. Peek at the undersides as un-invasively and infrequently as possible. And despite what you see short-order cooks doing, never press patties down with a spatula in the pan. That’s a technique used to speed up cooking, but it toughens and compacts the meat, and squeezes out moisture you don’t want to lose.
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GET CREATIVE
Add 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce to the mixture for a tangier, “steakier” taste.
If you’re craving Asian flavor, add 2 tablespoons bottled teriyaki sauce to the meat and replace the onion with finely minced scallions.
For cheeseburgers, lay a slice of cheese over each patty as soon as you flip it. You can cover the skillet with a lid for a minute toward the end of cooking to help the cheese melt.
Top with any of the classic restaurant add-ons, like bacon, crumbled bleu cheese, sautéed mushrooms, thinly sliced red onions (raw or sautéed), avocado, guacamole (store-bought or homemade—see Chapter 8: Party Snacks), salsa, or pesto (store-bought or homemade—see Chapter 8: Party Snacks).
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turkey burgers
Makes 4 burgers
Ground turkey (white meat alone, or a combination of white and dark) is easy to find and very reasonably priced. You can keep it in the freezer until ready to use, so stock up, and you’ll have this great dinner option on hand for when you need something simple and quick. (Defrost the meat thoroughly in the refrigerator, beginning a day ahead of time, before making the burgers.) Ground turkey cooks to a softer, more delicate texture than red meat, so egg is often added to help firm the patties up. Turkey burgers should be cooked all the way through until no longer pink inside. Check for doneness by cutting into a patty with a sharp knife, or if you want to be absolutely sure, use an instant-read thermometer, slid several inches into the burger from the side (not the top). For turkey burgers, it should register 170°F.
These patties freeze and reheat well after they’ve been cooked. Once you’ve cooked them, let them cool and then freeze them in a heavyweight resealable plastic bag. Reheat them in the microwave or in a small skillet over low heat.
1 large egg
½ cup very finely minced red or yellow onion
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 pound ground turkey
1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil
4 burger buns (optional)
Your favorite condiments (any combination of mayonnaise, mustard, ketchup, lettuce, onion, tomato, pickles)
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F or preheat the broiler (this is for the buns).
2. Break the egg into a medium-large bowl and beat lightly with a fork. Add the onion, salt, and about 1/8 teaspoon pepper, and mix well. Add the turkey and mix lightly but thoroughly, using your hands. Rinse your hands, wet them with cold water, and gently form 4 patties, each about ½-inch thick.