1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
½ cup olive oil
1½ teaspoons minced garlic (about 2 medium-sized cloves)
½ teaspoon dried rosemary, or 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
½ teaspoon dried thyme, or 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 portobello mushrooms (4 to 5 inches in diameter)
1. In a small bowl, or in a jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine the vinegar, oil, garlic, rosemary, thyme, salt, and pepper; whisk or shake to combine.
2. Carefully (so as not to tear the mushroom caps) pull off and discard the mushroom stems. Place the mushroom caps in a large flat dish (a medium-sized baking pan will work well) with their tops facing up. Pour about a tablespoon of the marinade over each top to cover them. Turn the mushrooms over and divide the rest of the marinade evenly among them. Let the mushrooms sit at room temperature for at least an hour, or cover the dish tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
3. Shortly before serving time, preheat the boiler.
4. Lift the mushrooms out of their marinating dish (leave the marinade behind) and without turning them over, transfer them to a foil-lined ovenproof dish or rimmed baking tray. Broil for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the mushrooms are heated through and the tops are nicely browned. (You don’t need to flip them.) Serve right away.
GET CREATIVE
About halfway through the broiling process, sprinkle the tops with a little grated mozzarella and/or Parmesan cheese, and then continue broiling until the cheese melts and turns a light golden brown.
Instead of broiling, you can cook the mushrooms in the microwave. This will take only about 1 minute. The flavor will be less toasty and intense, and the texture will be moist, but they’ll still be very good.
You can serve these just like burgers—on toasted buns or soft rolls with lettuce, tomato, and the classic toppings.
Leftover broiled mushrooms make a great room-temperature sandwich for tomorrow’s bag lunch.
Top with a thick slice of red onion, also broiled or seared quickly on both sides in a little olive oil in a skillet over very high heat.
spice-crusted tofu cutlets
Makes 4 cutlets
Unlike packaged tofu burgers, which are often a mysterious mélange of beige ingredients, these cutlets are slabs of pure tofu, coated heavily with spice and cooked in the Cajun “blackened” way by searing them in a hot pan with no oil. The result is a terrific contrast between a smoky, crisp flavorful outer surface and a creamy pure interior. (Note that they won’t actually turn black, but more of a deep, dark golden brown.) I like to make this with a spice mix called za’atar, which is a Middle Eastern blend. You can make your own or buy it ready-made at some specialty foods stores and supermarkets. You can also use a store-bought Cajun spice blend, or work up your own secret mix, using the za-atar recipe below as a starting point.
I always simmer firm tofu before cooking with it. This firms up its proteins and cooks out excess water (similar to pressing it under weights overnight, as many recipes suggest, but quicker—and I like the texture better this way).
This recipe is vegan.
1 pound very firm tofu, cut into 4 slices, each about ¾-inch thick
za-atar spice mix
3 tablespoons sesame seeds
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried marjoram or oregano
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¾ teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1. Put a medium-large pot of water to boil over high heat, and place a colander in the sink. When the water boils, turn the heat to low and add the 4 slices of tofu. Simmer for 10 minutes. Then gently slip the tofu into the colander to drain, being careful not to break the slices.
2. Meanwhile, combine the spice mix ingredients in a small bowl. Pour the mix into a pie pan and spread it out.
3. Turn on the stove fan and/or open the kitchen window (this process can create a fair amount of smoke). Place a large (10-to 12-inch) heavy skillet over medium heat and wait for about a minute.
4. While the pan is heating, carefully place one of the tofu slices in the spice mix, patting it down to coat one side; then sprinkle the mix on top and pat it on with your fingers to coat the surface evenly. Transfer the slice to a plate and repeat with the other 3 slices. Some of the coating may fall off; try to sprinkle as much of it as you can back onto the tofu, using up all of the mixture.
5. Gently transfer the tofu slices to the hot pan, and let them cook, undisturbed, for about 2 minutes, or until they are golden underneath.
6. Use a thin-bladed metal spatula to carefully loosen each cutlet and gently flip it over. Cook on the second side for 2 minutes, or until the undersides are nicely browned. (If some of the spice mix falls off, scoop it up with the spatula and put it back on. Most of it will stick. You can also push some of the fallen spice mix onto the sides of the tofu slices.)
7. Transfer the cooked cutlets to serving plates, and serve right away.
* * *
GET CREATIVE
There will be a lot of flavor left in the pan. You can retrieve it (this is called deglazing) by pouring in 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil (be very careful pouring it in—it will sizzle) and stirring it so the oil picks up all the leftover spice mix. Spoon this over the tops of the cutlets for a delightful finish.
You can serve these on toasted burger buns or soft rolls with lettuce, tomato, and mayonnaise.
They’re also wonderful on toasted split baguettes with a thick layer of hummus (store-bought or homemade—see Chapter 8: Party Snacks). Garnish with parsley, sliced cucumbers, and cherry tomatoes. (NOTE: The reddish spread under the cutlet in the photo is hummus blended with tomatoes.)
Use the cutlets just as you would use a grilled chicken breast—sliced into strips to top a Caesar Salad (Chapter 2: Salads) or a green salad, rolled in a tortilla with rice and beans to make a wrap, or in a bag-lunch sandwich.
* * *
chicken, fish, and meat.
BAKED CUT-UP CHICKEN WITH FRUIT
PAN-GRILLED BONELESS CHICKEN BREASTS
SIMPLEST (AND BEST) ROAST CHICKEN
TERIYAKI CHICKEN THIGHS
POACHED SALMON
CRISPY PAN-FRIED FISH FILLETS
PAN-SEARED GARLIC PRAWNS
PEPERONI E SALSICCIA (ITALIAN-STYLE PEPPERS AND SAUSAGES)
STIR-FRIED BROCCOLI BEEF
OLD-FASHIONED BEEF STEW
GRANDMA BETTY’S BRISKET
STEAK FAJITAS
Chicken, Fish, Meat, and You
When it comes to pure protein, we’ve all got our favorite sources. This chapter is for those of you who enjoy chicken, fish, shrimp, and red meat.
Now, most of you who love animal-based proteins, I’m guessing, also love this planet and want to live in a way that respects the environment. And no doubt you’ve heard about the links between livestock raising and global warming. Well, there are two things you can do about this without giving up meat altogether. You can eat it less often (and eat smaller servings of it when you do), and you can also do your best to purchase meat that has been responsibly, sustainably, and, if possible, locally raised.
Find a good meat, poultry, and seafood market with a knowledgeable staff whom you can trust for recommendations. The prices may be a bit higher than what you’d find at the supermarket, but for good reason. You’re getting what you pay for, and this will help you make a new pledge to yourself: “Self, from now on, quality will always trump quantity when it comes to meat (and all food choices, for that matter).” And that said, small butchers tend to feature great specials on whatever they’re trying to sell quickly, so keep your eyes peeled.
HERE’S THE (GRASS-FED) BEEF
If you secretly love a few bites of a good steak but avoid it for fear that it is bad for you (or that you will be stigmatized for th
is weakness of character), here is some good news. Grass-fed beef can be a very clean and healthy choice, and assuming you are willing to shop carefully and spend a little more on the meat that comes from pasture-raised, grass-fed cattle, you are in for a treat. It tastes really good, and when eaten in modest amounts it can provide you with a much lower dose of both overall fat and saturated fat compared with other beef, and—surprise!—it also delivers a significant amount of healthy omega-3 fatty acids (the terrific-for-you kind found in wild salmon and flax seed) and a nice hit of vitamins A and E as well. Why does this kind of beef stack up so well? Because unlike the starchy, low-fiber corn and soybeans that are the mainstay of feedlot cattle (and are accompanied by frightening doses of antibiotics that help Bossie assimilate this otherwise indigestible-to-her stuff), grass provides a low-starch, high-protein, high-fiber diet that translates into healthier cows. They are also likely to be happier, because they get to wander around outside, rather than being cooped up for months in a tightly packed, unclean confinement. And they tend not to become afflicted with E. coli and other toxicity, because they are eating their original pre-industrial-age diet, and they stay healthier and in better balance (and better immunity) this way.
BUYING MEAT
Shop at a busy market to get the freshest product. Raw meat should be moist but not wet or sticky, and should have no off-putting odor. Avoid anything with extra liquid in the package. The meat should be bright red, with white fat on the edge and running though the meat. (Some fat running around the edge of a steak is a good thing; it helps hold the meat together and flavors it. If you don’t want to eat it, cut it off with a sharp paring knife after the meat is cooked. Marbling, the fat that runs across the interior of a cut of meat in thin lines, is also a good thing, adding juiciness, tenderness, and flavor.)
For your basic pan-cooked, broiled, or grilled steak, you want cuts that are tender and have good flavor, the best of which come from the rib and the loin. The New York strip and rib-eye are good one-person steaks. Tenderloin steaks (filet mignons) are pricy and very tender but don’t have as much flavor as a strip or rib-eye. The T-bone and porterhouse are big luxury cuts with a T-shaped bone that separates what are actually two steaks: on one side of the bone is a New York strip, on the other, a tenderloin (the porterhouse has a bigger tenderloin piece). The bone gives T-bones (and any bone-in steak or chop) more flavor during cooking.
On the somewhat tougher but very flavorful side, flank steak and skirt steak (both best when marinated) are good choices, as is the large, thick London broil, which is very lean and should be cooked rare and sliced very thin.
“Prime” is the top USDA grade for meat, then “Choice,” then “Select.” The lower the grade, the less marbling the meat will have, and thus the less flavor and tenderness. “Select” is typical supermarket meat-case fare, but it can be delicious, especially if you marinate it.
BUYING FISH AND SEAFOOD
Buy fish from a reputable store where they can tell you its source and how it was caught. Check out seafoodwatch.org for guidelines on buying sustainable seafood—there’s even an iPhone application, so you can get a read on what you’re buying while you’re at the store.
Really fresh fish will never smell fishy. Rather, it should smell like the ocean. The flesh should be glossy and firm with no dark spots, mushiness, or separation. Your best bet is always simply to start by asking, “What’s fresh?”
BUYING POULTRY
Here again, go with a trusted source—a good market committed to offering sustainable/organic local options. Try to get poultry that has been pasture-raised, which means the chickens get to walk—or whatever they do—around outside, pecking their food. And ideally, that food they’re pecking at is healthy, organic, and hormone-free. Your purveyor will tell you, so always ask. Or, if you shop in a supermarket, check out specialty brands that are sustainably produced. Look for poultry that is plump, with creamy-yellow skin and no strong odors.
STORING
There’s a reason your refrigerator has a meat compartment: It’s generally colder in there, and that’s where meat, seafood, and poultry fare best. If you don’t have one, go with the coldest part of refrigerator, which is usually toward the bottom. Keep meat and poultry in the refrigerator for no more than 3 to 4 days, seafood for only a day or two. Or wrap meat or poultry very well, put it in a resealable freezer bag, mark the date on the outside, and freeze it for up to 3 months.
HANDLING
When handling raw meat, seafood, and poultry, you want to keep things cold and clean to avoid any possibility of bacterial contamination. It’s a good idea to designate a separate cutting board (preferably not made from wood) just for meat, poultry, and seafood (you can even mark one side for just seafood and poultry and the other for meat). Wash the board well in hot soapy water (or, even better, in the dishwasher if the cutting board is dishwasher-safe), and be careful to clean up well after you finish your prep. That means washing your hands thoroughly, as well as the countertop, your knives, and any other implements you’ve used.
MENU PLANNING
Menu planning around a main dish of meat, poultry, or fish generally means giving some thought to side dishes—a potato, rice, or grain dish, plus a vegetable or two and maybe a salad—so check out the recipes in those chapters and plan accordingly. You may need to get potatoes or rice cooked ahead of time, and you want to factor in your vegetable preparation as well in putting together the meal. Don’t stress about the timing, though. Most things that are good hot are also good mostly hot or even warm, so do your best to coordinate (sit down and think it through first)—but beyond that, just do what works and enjoy.
EASY MEETS TASTY AND AFFORDABLE
My choice of recipes for this chapter was based first and foremost on their high simplicity-to-deliciousness ratio, with an eye toward keeping things affordable. We’re working with reasonably priced cuts of meat and types of fish here, not the high-end stuff. But the good news is, some of the best flavor lives at that low end of the price spectrum. “Give me a brisket over a filet mignon any day,” say my meat-appreciating friends, and I know they’re talking about the meat itself and not just the price.
Many of these recipes work well as tonight’s dinner plus leftovers to be chilled and turned into other meals, and you’ll find lots of suggestions along those lines. So even if you’re cooking for one, prepare the full recipe and you can “bank” a second or third meal while you’re at it. Leftover meat and chicken are great added to other things, like salads (lay thin strips or chunks on top), soups, rice and grains (cut the meat into small pieces and stir it in toward the end of cooking), tacos, omelets, and quesadillas.
COOKING IT RIGHT
Most of the meat and fish included here is cooked in a skillet on the stovetop. Find and adopt a favorite “meat skillet”—a big, wide frying pan made out of heavy material. I vote for cast iron, which is indestructible and remarkably inexpensive, especially when purchased at a garage sale or a thrift store. Some people insist that a cast-iron pan needs to be seasoned—a process involving heating it with oil. Others, including me, believe that all you need to do is dry it very thoroughly after each use, so it doesn’t rust. A good way to do this is to heat the clean, well-rinsed, wiped-dry pan for a few minutes over low heat on the stove. Just don’t walk away and forget to take it off the heat.
Avoid thin-bottomed pans for cooking meat. You’ll end up browning the outside long before the inside is done. Heavier pans, on the other hand, distribute the heat more evenly and gradually.
You’ll sometimes need a lid for your meat skillet, but it doesn’t have to actually match. Any lid that’s a reasonably snug fit is fine.
CHECKING DONENESS
These recipes all include ways to check for doneness. The most reliable of these is using an instant-read thermometer. If you’re new to meat cooking, do yourself a favor and buy one. You can find an inexpensive version in the cooking supplies section of any supermarket. Just make sure what you’re buyi
ng is an instant-read thermometer—a needle-like probe with a point at one end and a dial or digital readout at the other. Most measure temperatures from 0° to 220°F. (What you’re not looking for here is a candy/deep-frying thermometer, which will have a bigger probe and measures higher temperatures, typically up to 400°F; a meat thermometer, which gets inserted in the raw meat and stays in throughout the cooking process; or an oven thermometer, which is a dial with no probe that sits or hangs in your oven.)
The concept with an instant-read thermometer, as the name suggests, is that you use it to take the temperature of cooked meat simply by inserting it, waiting a few seconds, reading the dial, and then removing it. Always insert the probe lengthwise so you get as much of it into the meat as you can; aim for the center of the thickest part of the meat and avoid any bones, which can give you a false reading. If, after you read the temperature, you find that whatever you’re preparing needs more cooking time (see “When Is It Done?” on the following page), take the thermometer out and reinsert it when you’re ready to check for doneness again.
Get Cooking Page 18