GIVE IT A REST
When you cook meat, there’s an important step that happens after it comes out of the pan or off the grill. It’s called “resting,” and it simply means letting the meat sit (on a plate with a rim to catch any juices) for 5 to 10 minutes before you serve it. During cooking, the outer surface of the meat dries out and tightens up, and the juices migrate toward the center. Cut the meat open the minute it’s cooked, and it’ll gush juices from the center—not a good thing. Let it rest, and the outer surfaces will “relax” and reabsorb their juices, making the meat juicier and more tender throughout. Note that during resting, even at room temperature, the meat will continue to cook a bit and the internal temperature is likely to rise by around 5°F, so factor that in when you first check the temperature for doneness.
Okay, omnivores, carnivores, piscivores, and “poultrivores.” Let’s get meating!
WHEN IS IT DONE?
Note that for food-safety reasons, most sources recommend cooking meat to at least 145°F.
STEAK
120°–125°F = rare
130°–135°F = medium-rare
140°F = medium
150°F = medium-well or well-done
GROUND MEAT
Cook to 160°F
CHICKEN AND TURKEY
Cook to 165°F for white meat
170°F for dark meat
PORK
Cook to at least 140°F
FISH
Cook to 140°F
baked cut-up chicken with fruit
Makes 4 to 5 servings
I recommend this recipe for absolute beginners. Very little cutting or fussing is required, and the fruit, onion, garlic, and chicken juices come together on their own to create a sweet, succulent dish. It takes some time to bake, so plan accordingly. But there’s no work involved during that time, except occasionally basting the chicken. Try to get an organic orange for this—a particularly good idea when a recipe includes the peel. A blood orange, which is dark sangria-red on the inside, looks especially lovely. The various dried fruits are negotiable. If you can’t find (or don’t love) any of them, you can swap in more of the ones you prefer. That said, I have to tell you that the combination as written is delicious, and worth trying once. You’ll be surprised at how everything gets transformed as it all bakes together. And if you adore fruit and want to add more, don’t hold back. You can really pack it into the pan!
One 3-to 4-pound cut-up chicken
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon mild paprika
1 medium red or yellow onion
8 to 10 good-sized cloves garlic, peeled (left whole)
Approximately 20 of each:
-Dried apricots
-Pitted dried plums (prunes)
-Dried figs (stems trimmed off and discarded)
1 blood orange or navel orange
1. Adjust the oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 375°F.
2. Rinse the chicken pieces under cold running water, then pat dry with paper towels. If there is any extraneous fat here or there, you can trim it off with scissors and throw it away. Arrange the chicken pieces, skin side up, in a 9-by 13-inch baking pan.
3. Combine the salt, pepper, and paprika in a small bowl, and then sprinkle this mixture over the chicken. Use your fingers to rub it into the skin on as much surface area as possible.
4. Cut the ends off the onion, peel it, and cut it in half lengthwise (from root end to stem end). Lay each half, cut side down, on a cutting board, and cut it lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick slices. Scatter the onion and the garlic cloves over the chicken, and then scatter the dried fruit over the chicken, packing it into the spaces between the pieces and letting some of it land on top.
5. Leaving the peel on, cut the orange in half lengthwise (from top to bottom). Lay each half on the cutting board and cut it crosswise into ¼-inch-thick half-moons. Scatter the orange slices over the chicken, and cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil. Bake, undisturbed, for 1 hour.
6. Remove the pan from the oven, and very carefully lift the foil (the accumulated steam can be hot enough to burn you). Flip the chicken pieces over, using tongs or a fork. Using a mitt or a pot holder, tilt the pan slightly with one hand, and using a baster or a large spoon, baste the juices over both chicken and fruit with the other hand. This distributes and mingles the flavors as well as the moisture, yielding delicious results. If any of the fruit looks dry at this point, or at subsequent bastings, just push it down into the juices.
7. Cover the pan tightly with the foil again, and return it to the oven for another 20 minutes of undisturbed baking.
8. Repeat the basting procedure, and then flip the chicken pieces back to skin-side-up position. Return the pan to the oven (without covering it this time) and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, or until the chicken is golden on top.
9. Remove the pan from the oven, baste the chicken and fruit a few more times, and then tent it loosely with foil. Let it rest for about 10 minutes.
10. Serve hot or warm, being sure to include a generous portion of fruit with each serving.
A CUT-UP CHICKEN
Buying chicken already cut into individual pieces saves time and makes cooking easier. Look for cut-up chickens in the poultry case of the supermarket, or better yet, go to a butcher shop or a market with working butchers, where you can buy a whole chicken and get it cut up to order. If you go this route, ask the butcher to cut each breast half into two pieces, which makes for easier serving and eating.
HOW ABOUT THOSE GIBLETS?
Whole chickens are often sold with the giblets (the liver, heart, and gizzards) and neck stuffed inside the bird in a little plastic bag. You can cook the liver in a hot skillet with a little olive oil, sprinkle it with salt and pepper, and enjoy it as a snack. As for the rest, you can make a simple broth by simmering them in a small pot in water to cover. This broth can then be combined with the pan juices after cooking to make a light sauce. Or simply toss the giblets and neck in the roasting pan and let them cook along with the chicken so they add some flavor to the pan juices. Then discard them when you collect and skim the juices.
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GET CREATIVE
For a more exotic Middle Eastern flavor, you can add either a tablespoon of za’atar spice mix (see Chapter 5: Burgers), or 2 teaspoons ground cumin plus ½ teaspoon cinnamon.
Serve with additional fresh orange slices, plus a few lemon wedges so you can squeeze fresh lemon juice on each portion.
If you like things spicy, serve with a bit of harissa, a delicious Middle Eastern chili sauce sold in jars in Middle Eastern groceries and in the ethnic foods section of some supermarkets.
This dish goes well with couscous (see Chapter 7: Sides) and Absolutely the Best Broccoli (Chapter 7: Sides). You can cook them both while the chicken is in the oven.
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pan-grilled boneless chicken breasts
Makes 2 main-dish servings or enough to top 4 main-dish salads
The boneless, skinless chicken breast fillet (which is actually one half of a whole chicken breast) has become the go-to protein for home cooks for a reason. It’s quick to cook and super-versatile because its flavor goes with just about anything. So if you love chicken, this simple preparation is an essential building block for cooking. If you have a grill pan (with raised ridges), by all means use it here. It will give the chicken a bit more charred flavor and attractive grill marks. You can eat these chicken breasts right away as an entrée or salad topping, or refrigerate them for up to 4 days in a resealable plastic bag or airtight container and use them later in salads, sandwiches, stir-fries, and countless other wonderful ways. You can reheat the cooked fillets briefly in the microwave (don’t overdo it, or they’ll turn rubbery), or warm them in a covered skillet over low heat with a little water to keep them moist.
2 boneless, skinless chicken breast fillets (about 8 ounces each)
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
1/8 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil (possibly a little more)
1. Pat the fillets dry with paper towels, and season on both sides with the garlic powder, salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Set aside.
2. Place a small heavy-bottomed skillet (just large enough to hold the fillets in a single layer) over medium heat. After about a minute, add the olive oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the chicken and cook, undisturbed, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until golden brown on the bottom.
3. Use a metal spatula to carefully loosen each fillet and flip it over, adding a little more oil if the pan seems dry. Cook on the second side for 3 minutes or so, or until the bottom surface matches the top. You may need to lower the heat if the chicken begins to burn, or raise it if it is not browning quickly. To check for doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer lengthwise into the thickest part of the breast. It should register 165°F. You can also poke the tip of a sharp knife into the thickest part of the breast; the meat should be opaque white throughout.
4. Transfer the chicken to a plate, and let it rest for about 5 minutes before serving. Serve hot, cold, or at room temperature.
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GET CREATIVE
Make a big green salad and top with warm slices of the chicken.
Top a Caesar Salad (Chapter 2: Salads) with warm slices or cubes of the chicken.
Serve with any vegetable side dish.
To make a chicken club, slice warm fillets and layer the slices on a soft roll with mayo, lettuce, tomato, avocado, and a strip of bacon (see Chapter 8: Party Snacks).
Slice the chicken, fan the slices out on plates, squeeze some fresh lime juice over them, and top them with a dollop of guacamole (store-bought or homemade—see Chapter 8: Party Snacks) and/or salsa. Serve with sizzling Fajita-Style Peppers and Onions (Chapter 7: Sides) and warm tortillas.
Use the chilled leftovers to make Chinese Chicken Salad (Chapter 2: Salads) or a chicken sandwich.
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simplest (and best) roast chicken
Makes 3 to 4 servings
This stellar, ultra-easy method of roasting chicken uses an ancient, brilliant seasoning: high heat. That and a large amount of salt produce a bird with crisp skin and very juicy meat. It’s a technique simplified from renowned chef Thomas Keller’s already simple one (brought to my attention by my son, Sam, who has become quite a master of it). Salt and pepper are the only flavor accents until the very end of roasting, when you can opt to add an herb or two to the juices and baste with them for a final touch. If you have the time and the refrigerator space, season the raw chicken with the salt and pepper, and then let it sit, uncovered, on a deep plate in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours. This will dry the skin out a bit and make for crisper results.
Any reasonably heavy roasting or baking pan (or even a cast-iron skillet) that is large enough to hold the chicken will work. There’s no need for a rack. This method does make a fair amount of smoke, so don’t forget to turn on your kitchen fan and/or open the window.
1 whole chicken (3 to 4 pounds)
1 tablespoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Adjust the oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 450°F.
2. Rinse the chicken (inside and out) under cold running water and pat it completely dry (inside and out) with paper towels.
3. Combine the salt and pepper in a small bowl. Place the chicken, breast side up, in a roasting pan. Season both the outside and the inside of the chicken with the salt and pepper, rubbing the mixture into the skin. (I usually put about a teaspoon of the mixture inside and the rest all over the outside, but it’s not an exact science.)
4. Turn on the stovetop fan and/or open the window. Place the pan in the oven, and leave the chicken alone for a good 50 minutes, or until the skin is becoming nicely browned. At that point, start checking for doneness with an instant-read thermometer. To do so, remove the chicken from the oven, insert the thermometer under the leg where it joins the thigh (avoiding the bone), and watch the temperature register. It should stop at 170°F. If you stick the thermometer into the breast meat (again avoiding the bone, and sliding the thermometer in lengthwise along the breast, starting at the top), it should register 160°F. If not, return the chicken to the oven for another 10 minutes and check again. When the chicken has reached 170°F in the leg/thigh area, remove it from the oven.
5. Use a baster or a spoon to suction or scoop up the juices that have gathered in the bottom of the pan (and inside the chicken itself), and gently squirt or dribble them over the entire chicken. Do this about ten times in a row to coat the chicken. When you’re finished basting, let the chicken sit in the roasting pan at room temperature for 15 minutes.
6. Hold the chicken upright (drumsticks down) over the pan to drain off any juices that have collected inside it. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board. Skim off and discard as much of the clear yellow fat that has floated to the top of the pan juices as you can, leaving the dark stuff to use as a sauce.
7. Use a knife or poultry shears to cut the chicken into pieces. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature, with the roasting juices spooned over each serving.
GET CREATIVE
Add up to 1 tablespoon dried thyme, sage, or rosemary (or a combination) to the pan when you take the chicken out of the oven for basting. The herbs will infuse the basting juices.
Carve or pull apart some of the warm meat and toss it into a green salad to make a light one-dish meal.
Prepared mustard (especially Dijon) makes a nice table condiment for this, as does a sauce made from equal parts mustard and mayo.
Warm a baguette in the oven, cut it into 4-inch lengths, split them open, leaving them hinged, drizzle pan juices on the bread, and pile in some warm sliced or shredded chicken, along with a little mayo and some baby spinach, watercress, or lettuce.
Serve with a green salad, any cooked vegetable (or several), rice (see Chapter 7: Sides), Mashed Potatoes (Chapter 7: Sides), and/or some good bread to soak up the delicious juices.
teriyaki chicken thighs
Makes 4 servings (2 thighs apiece)
Chicken teriyaki is about as easy as whisking together a quick no-cook sauce, pouring it over some chicken in a pan, and sliding it in the oven. The chicken comes out juicy and moist, with a beautiful mahogany glaze. Don’t worry about overcooking these. You want to err on the side of their being well-done. With all the sauce surrounding them, they’ll just get more and more tender, and there’s very little danger of their drying out. Once they’re baked, the thighs and their sauce can be stored in a tightly covered container or a resealable plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week. Reheat them briefly in the microwave, or enjoy them at room temperature.
½ cup soy sauce
½ cup water
1 tablespoon minced garlic (about 3 good-sized cloves)
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon honey
8 chicken thighs (6 to 8 ounces each)
1. Adjust the oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. In a medium bowl or a jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine the soy sauce, water, garlic, ginger, brown sugar, and honey. Whisk or shake to mix well.
3. Rinse the chicken thighs under cold water, pat them dry with paper towels, and arrange them, skin side up, in a single layer in a 9-by 13-inch baking pan. Pour the sauce over the chicken. Bake in the center of the oven for 30 minutes, uncovered and undisturbed.
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