The House of Gucci

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The House of Gucci Page 48

by Sara G Forden


  Spencer Davidson, “Design,” Avenue, October 1980, pp. 99–101.

  Ian Dear, “200 Years of Yachting History,” Camper & Nicholson’s Ltd. 1782–1982, as reprinted in Yachting Monthly, August 1982.

  Denise Demong, “Gucci: The Poetic Approach to Business,” Women’s Wear Daily, December 22, 1972, p. 1.

  E. J. Dionne, “Repairing the House of Gucci,” The New York Times, August 11, 1985, III, 5:1.

  Carrie Donovan, “Fashion’s Leading Edge: Bergdorf Goodman, Resplendent in Crystal and Cloaked with Tradition, Strikes a New and Unexpected Pose as the Fashionable Women’s Mecca,” The New York Times Magazine, September 14, 1986, p. 103.

  Hebe Dorsey, “Gucci Seeking a New Image,” International Herald Tribune, October 21, 1982, p. 7.

  ———, “Gucci Puts an Even Better Foot Forward—in New Moccasin,” International Herald Tribune, July 26, 1968, p. 6.

  Victoria Everett, “Move over Dallas: Behind the Glittering Facade, a Family Feud Rocks the House of Gucci,” People, September 6, 1982, pp. 36–38.

  Camilla Fiorina, “Sergio Bassi,” YD Yacht Design by Yacht Capital, December 1988, pp. 82–86.

  Bridget Foley, “Gucci’s Mod Age,” W, May 1995, p. 106.

  ———, “Ford Drives,” W, August, 1996, p. 162.

  Sara Gay Forden, “Gucci Is Expecting Break-Even Results Despite Sales Drop,” The Wall Street Journal, November, 14, 1991, second section, p. 2.

  ———, “Banks Putting Big Squeeze on Gucci Chief,” Women’s Wear Daily, April 26, 1993, p. 1.

  ———, “Gucci Denies Financial Straits,” Women’s Wear Daily, April 27, 1993, p. 2.

  ———, “Bringing Back Gucci,” Women’s Wear Daily, December 12, 1994, p. 24.

  ———, “Gucci on Wall Street: Launching Pad for Worldwide Growth,” Women’s Wear Daily, November 2, 1995, p. 11.

  ———, “Gucci’s Turnaround: From the Precipice to the Peak in 3 Years,” Women’s Wear Daily, May 2, 1996, p. 1.

  ———, “Prada Using Star Status to Expand on the Global Stage,” Women’s Wear Daily, February 15, 1996, p. 1.

  Robin Givhan, “Gucci’s Strong Suit,” The Washington Post, May 5, 1999, C1.

  Lauren Goldstein, “Prada Goes Shopping,” Fortune, September 27, 1999, pp. 83–85.

  Adriana Grassi, “The Gucci Look,” Footwear News, April 28, 1966.

  Robert Heller, “Gucci’s $4 Billion Man,” Forbes Global, February 8, 1999, pp. 36–39.

  Lynn Hirschberg, “Next. Next. What’s Next?” The New York Times Magazine, April 7, 1996, pp. 22–25.

  Thomas Kamm, “Art of the Deal: François Pinault Snatches Away Gucci from Rival LVMH,” The Wall Street Journal, March 2, 1999, p. 1.

  Sarah Laurenedie, “Le Grand Seigneur,” W, January 2000.

  Suzy Menkes, “Fashion’s Shiniest Trophy, Gucci Buys House of YSL for $1 Billion,” International Herald Tribune, November 16, 1999, p. 1.

  Russell Miller, “Gucci Coup,” The Sunday Times, p. 16.

  Sarah Mower, “Give Me Gucci,” Harper’s Bazaar, May 1995, p. 142.

  John Rossant, “At Gucci, La Vita Is No Longer So Dolce,” Business Week, November 23, 1992, p. 60.

  Barbara Rudolph, “Makeover in Milan,” Time, December 3, 1990, p. 56.

  Galeazzo Santini, “Come Salire al Trono di Famiglia,” Capital, December 1982, pp. 12–20.

  Eugenia Sheppard, “Sporting the Gucci Look,” International Herald Tribune, July 25, 1969, p. 12.

  Mimi Sheraton, “The Rudest Store in New York,” New York, November 10, 1975, pp. 44–47.

  Michael Shnayerson, “The Ford That Drives Gucci,” Vanity Fair, March 1998, pp. 136–52.

  Amy Spindler “A Retreat from Retro Glamour,” The New York Times, March 7, 1995, p. B9.

  Angela Taylor, “But at Gucci You’d Think People Had Money to Burn,” The New York Times, December 21, 1974, 12:1.

  Lucia van der Post, “Is This the Most Delicious Man in the World?” How to Spend It, The Financial Times, issue 35, April 1999, p. 6.

  Constance C. R. White, “Patterns: How LVMH May Make Its Presence Felt at Gucci, Now That It Controls 34.4% of the Stock,” The New York Times, January 26, 1999, fashion section, p. 1.

  : SELECTED READINGS :

  Teri Agins. The End of Fashion: The Mass Marketing of the Clothing Business. New York: William Morrow and Company, Inc., 1999.

  Salvatore Ferragamo. Salvatore Ferragamo, Shoemaker of Dreams. Florence: Centro Della Edifini Srl., 1985 (from original publication, 1957).

  Nadège Forestier and Nazanine Ravai. Bernard Arnault: Ou le gout du Pouvoir. Paris: Olivier Orban, 1990.

  Gerald McKnight. Gucci: A House Divided. London: Sidgwick & Jackson, 1987, and New York: Donald I. Fine, Inc., 1987.

  Angelo Pergolini and Maurizio Tortorella. L’Ultimo dei Gucci: Splendori e Miserie di una Grande Famiglia Fiorentina. Milan: Marco Tropea Editore, 1997.

  Marie-France Pochna. Christian Dior. New York: Arcade Publishing, 1996.

  Stefania Ricci. “Firenze Anni Cinquanta: Nasce La Moda Italiana,” in La Stanza delle Meraviglie: L’Arte del Commercio a Firenze dagli sporti medioevali al negozio virtuale. Florence: Le Lettere, 1998, pp. 78–87.

  Hugh Sebag-Montefiore. Kings of the Catwalk: The Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessy Affair. London: Chapman, 1992.

  : OTHER SOURCES :

  Britain’s Channel Five documentary produced by Studio Zeta: Fashion Victim: The Last of the Guccis, November 1998.

  Charlie Rose, PBS, interview with Tom Ford on December 28, 1999.

  60 Minutes, CBS, “Gucci,” May 22, 1988.

  Today, NBC, “Gucci Murder,” NBC Network, June 24, 1998.

  Robert Gucci, “Il Cinema nella Mia Vita.” Private documentary production, November, 1982.

  Searchable Terms

  The pagination of this electronic edition does not match the edition from which it was created. To locate a specific passage, please use the search feature of your e-book reader.

  Abraham, Lee, 154

  Accornero, Vittorio, 37, 38

  Adriana (cook), 228, 240, 241

  Aga Khan, Shah Karim, 47, 108

  Agnelli, Gianni, 47, 188, 191–92

  AIDS Project Los Angeles benefit, 267

  Alberti, Barbara, 231

  Alexis Barthelay, 67

  Alioto, Joseph, 95

  Allied Bank International, 137

  Alt, Carol, 98

  Altman, Miriam, 145

  American Express, 68

  America’s Cup, 108, 112–13, 126, 131, 188

  Amsterdam, 307, 318, 320–21, 324, 325, 326

  Anglo American Manufacturing Research, 69, 126

  Anselmi, Maddalena, 229

  Antonio (butler), 203, 211, 215

  Argenti, Filippo, 8

  Armani, Giorgio, 3, 14, 95–96, 157, 158, 165, 167, 173, 313, 316

  Armstrong, Penny, 89, 90

  Arnault, Bernard, 249, 257, 269, 309–26, 328

  Arno River, flooding of, 36–37

  Artemis SA, 327

  Auletta, Cosimo, 237–38, 242

  Auriemma, Pina, 116, 233, 239, 275, 280, 282–84

  murder trial and, 288, 290–302, 304–5

  Avon Products, Inc., 138

  Azario, Brenda, 158

  Azienda Individuale Guccio Gucci, 10–14

  Azzurra (boat), 112, 113

  Bacci, Carlo, 21

  bags, Gucci, 11, 14, 17, 21, 23, 24, 29, 39–40, 41, 75, 155, 163, 167, 200

  bamboo-handle (0633), 22, 37, 72, 76, 164–65, 167, 256

  canvas, 70–71, 165–66, 194, 205

  for Gucci Boutique, 32

  hobo, 165, 167

  bags, Prada, 165, 309

  Bahrain, 138, 159–60, 182

  Ballerini, Alberta, 96, 97, 113, 248, 254

  B. Altman & Company, 135, 152, 154, 155, 204

  Bamber, David, 157–58, 178

  Banca della Svizzera Italiana, 198, 208

  Barbieri, Silvana, s
ee Reggiani, Silvana Barbieri

  Barbizet, Patricia, 322

  Bardon, John, 189–90, 191

  Bassi, Sergio, 225, 226, 227

  Batti, Salvatore, 274

  Beene, Geoffrey, 154, 157

  belts, 39, 41

  Bergdorf, Herman, 152

  Bergdorf Goodman, 151–53, 155, 254

  Bergé, Pierre, 268, 326, 327, 328

  Berlusconi, Silvio, 209, 287

  Berry, Robert, 109

  Bertelli, Patrizio, 209, 308–9, 317, 328

  Beverly Hills, Calif., Gucci store in, 35–36, 39–40

  Bianchi, Graziano, 146–47

  Biuzzi family, 20

  Blass, Bill, 154

  Blort, 50, 54, 55

  bombings, 2–3, 210

  Boussac, 311

  Braghetta, Signore, 47

  Branchini, Armando, 327

  Bridgestone, 133

  Broderick, Vincent, 123, 124

  Brown, Tina, 176

  Brunei, Sultan of, 205, 208, 257

  Bruno, Carlo, 222, 242, 244

  Brussels, Gucci franchise in, 31, 41

  Bucciol, Antonello, 8

  Buckley, Richard, 171, 174–78, 258, 321

  Bulgari, 3, 18, 266, 328

  Buora, Carlo, 159, 160

  Buscombe, Philip, 138, 199

  Byblos, 157

  Caffè Giacosa, 11

  Caffè Italia, 113

  Cafferelli, Drusilla, see Gucci, Drusilla Cafferelli

  Callaghan, 152

  Calvelli, Aida, see Gucci, Aida Calvelli

  Camerini, Mario, 16

  Camper & Nicholson, 60

  canapa (hemp), 17, 20, 40

  Cantini, Giorgio, 118, 162–63

  canvas business, 70–71, 165–66, 194, 205, 211

  Capital, 98

  Caracciolo, Marcella, 191

  Carcelle, Yves, 310, 311, 317

  Cardin, Pierre, 105

  Carpanese, Gabriele, 278–82, 298

  Carter-Hawley–Hale, 152

  Cartier, 64, 67, 99, 257

  Caruso, Enrico, 169

  Casa Grande, 20–21

  Casella, Mario, 139

  Cassol, Roberta, 100, 101, 105–6, 117–18, 162

  Ceraulo, Benedetto, 275, 280, 284

  murder trial and, 288, 290–91, 295, 304–5

  Cesmig, Cem, 138, 140

  Chanel, 152, 154, 259

  Chaney, William R., 138

  Chase Manhattan, 137–38, 198–99, 247

  Cherry Blossom Farm, 59

  Chesa D’Ancora, 47

  Chesa Murézzan (“Maurizio’s house”), 47, 92, 121, 139

  Chicago, Ill., Gucci store in, 63

  Chloé, 173

  Christian Dior, 105, 311, 312, 313

  Christian Lacroix, 311

  Christie, Agatha, 97–98

  Churchill, Winston, 18

  Cicala, Orazio, 275, 280, 284

  murder trial and, 288, 290, 291, 293–96, 304–5

  Cimino, Rita, 98, 158, 248

  Cinema nella Mia Vita, Il (Film in My Life) (film), 46, 91–93

  Cinzano, 112

  Citibank, 198, 199–200, 204, 208

  Citicorp, 239

  Cleary, Gottlieb, Steen & Hamilton, 317

  Cleaver, Alan, 157

  Cochran, Alexander, 60

  Collenghi, Carlo (“Carlos”), 281–85

  Colombo, Charly, 222, 224, 225, 226, 239, 243, 334

  Colombo, Giorgio, 222, 239

  Colombo, Giovanni, 55–56

  Colombo, Liliana, 52, 100, 102, 118, 162, 168, 219, 226, 230, 231, 236–37, 239, 240, 243

  Colombo, Paola, see Franchi, Paola

  Compagnie Financière Richemont, 257

  Conner, William C., 87–88

  Conti, Anthony R., 135

  Corriere della Sera, 86, 130, 244–45

  counterfeiting, 71, 78, 79

  Court of Appeals, Milan, 161–63

  Covington and Burlings, 81

  Crédit Suisse, 108, 120, 208

  Crédit Suisse First Boston, 263

  Creole (formerly Vira) (boat), 60–61, 122, 126, 130, 139, 146, 188–92, 197, 228, 229, 233, 235, 236, 334

  Crespi, Pilar, 159, 169, 194, 235–36

  Cucchiani, Enrico, 132, 134

  Cucci, Enrico, 18

  cuoio grasso, 17, 21

  Cuomo, Antonietta, 209, 228, 236, 240, 241, 242, 297

  D’Aiello, Vittorio, 161–62

  Daily Express (London), 119

  “D’Ancora, Maurizio,” see Gucci, Rodolfo

  Dante Alighieri, 8, 20

  Dati, Gregorio, 8–9

  Dedola, Gianni, 287, 292, 293, 302, 304

  de Gaulle, Charles, 18

  Degl’Innocenti, Claudio, 125, 165, 201–2, 205, 219, 252–53, 256

  Designs by Paolo Gucci, 88–89, 90, 123–24

  De Sole, Domenico, 34, 80–87, 100, 103, 106–9, 111–14, 123, 235, 240, 248, 249, 307–12

  background of, 80–81

  as Gucci America CEO, 119, 135, 140, 145, 156–57, 166, 200, 206–7, 214–17, 235

  in Gucci turnaround, 249, 251–53, 255–56, 258–66, 268, 269

  LVMH takeover attempt and, 310–12, 314–28

  Maurizio’s loans from, 204, 215, 217–18, 252

  De Sole, Eleanore Leavitt, 81, 107, 111, 204, 307, 308, 310, 314, 317–18

  Diageo, 312

  DIGOS (Italian political police), 3

  Dimitruk, Paul, 136–37, 140, 142, 143, 144, 148, 150, 159, 195, 196, 254

  Divine Comedy (Dante), 8, 20

  Dolce & Gabbana, 167

  Dorsey, Hebe, 38, 97–98

  Dorso, Betty, 154

  dresses, 40

  drug trade, 273, 274, 276, 279, 281

  Duchin, Peter, 76

  Dugan, Frank, 27

  Duty Free Shops (DFS), 269, 312, 313

  Eglin Air Force Base, 124–25

  Elbaz, Alber, 327

  Emilia-Romagna, 49, 97

  England, 11, 20, 183, 318

  Aldo in, 15, 18, 22, 23

  Guccio in, 9–10

  in World War II, 19, 60

  see also London

  Envy perfume, launch of, 267–68

  Epaminonda, Angelo, 291–92

  ESOP (employee stock ownership plan), 319–21, 325

  Esperienza, 333

  Ethiopia, Italian invasion of, 17

  European Community, 330

  Extra Beat (boat), 191–92

  eyewear, 140

  Fairchild Publications, 174–75, 176

  Falchi, Giuseppe, 274

  Falcone, Giovanni, 3

  Falconer, Ian, 172

  Fascist Party, Italian (Partito Nazionale Fascista), 13, 19

  fashion shows, 40, 75, 154, 167, 174, 175, 251, 255, 259, 266, 268, 329

  in Florence, 25, 39, 95, 165, 258

  Federated Department Stores, 71

  Fendi, 96, 152, 317, 327–28, 332

  Fendi, Adele, 327

  Fendi, Carla, 177

  Ferragamo, 3, 157, 332

  Ferragamo, Salvatore, 17

  Ferrari, Dante, 21–22, 23

  Ferré, Gianfranco, 95, 249, 254

  Fiat, 112

  Fidinam, 208, 211

  Finalmente Soli (film), 16

  Financial Times, 159, 321

  Fiorentini, Aurora, 22, 24

  Fiorio, 38

  Firestone, 72, 133

  Flanz, William, 187, 194, 198–99, 201–5, 208, 211–14, 217, 218, 246–48, 250–54, 261

  Flora scarf, 37–38

  Florence, 3, 7–25, 57, 72–74, 78, 84, 110, 117–18, 125, 134, 146, 159, 167, 247, 250–53, 308, 332, 333

  fashion shows in, 25, 39, 95, 165, 258

  flood in, 36–37

  Gucci base in, 3, 7, 8, 9, 251, 254, 307

  Gucci factory in, 22, 29, 30, 37

  Gucci stores in, 10–11, 14, 19–20, 36, 74, 85, 141

  Gucci workshops in, 11, 20–21

  Hotel de la Ville in, 30, 1
40

  merchant class in, 8–9

  Oltrarno in, 11–12, 20–23

  tourists in, 11, 20

  Via delle Caldaie in, 20–23, 37, 258

  Via Tornabuoni in, 10–11, 20, 30, 36, 74, 333

  Florida, 124–25

  see also Palm Beach, Fla.

  Forbes, 315, 322

  Ford, Ruth, 171

  Ford, Tom, 171–79, 206–7, 251, 254–63, 265–69, 307–8, 309, 311, 320–31, 332

  LVMH takeover attempt and, 314, 316, 318, 320–25

  Forte, Gabriella, 177

  France, 18, 24, 218, 311–13, 318

  see also Paris

  Franchi, Paola, 221–29, 234–43, 245, 297–98, 300, 334

  Franchini, Fabio, 6–7, 197–98, 203, 204, 209–11, 213, 217, 219, 229, 235, 240, 244

  as Maurizio defender, 249–50

  Paola’s relationship contract and, 238, 243

  Patrizia’s threats and, 229, 232, 238, 242

  Franzi, 10

  Frida (psychic), 61, 169

  Galeotti, Sergio, 249

  Gallo, Carmine, 274–75

  Gardini, Raul, 188

  Geneva, 122, 149–50

  Paolo-Maurizio meetings in, 107–8, 120–21

  Genny SpA, 157

  Gerani family, 157

  Germany, 11, 19, 50, 318

  GG monogrammed fabric, 40, 70, 72

  Giacomini, Silvia, 97

  Giammetti, Giancarlo, 249

  Giorgini, Giovan Battisti, 25, 39

  Giorgio Armani, 177, 249

  Gittardi, Francesco, 29, 30, 33, 47, 65, 92, 100

  Givenchy, 311, 313

  Glaser, Robert, 138, 182–87, 212–16, 252

  Godé, Pierre, 249, 310–13, 317, 320, 324–26

  Goldman Sachs, 138

  Goodman, Andrew, 152

  Goodman, Edwin, 152

  Gould, Milton, 109, 124

  Grace, Princess of Monaco, 37–38

  Grand Met, 312, 313

  Guardia di Finanza, 7, 104, 126, 127–30

  Gucci (company), 10–41, 62–220, 307–36

  artisans of, 11, 14, 21–22, 72, 331

  Asian crisis and, 269, 309, 330

  autocratic customer relations of, 64–66

 

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