The House of Gucci

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The House of Gucci Page 49

by Sara G Forden


  Bertelli’s attack on, 309

  board of directors of, 62–63, 69, 71, 73, 78, 84–85, 104–5, 107–10, 118, 120–23, 139–40, 145, 203, 247–48, 318, 319, 325

  buyout plan for, 132–50

  cheapening of, 156, 166

  court-appointed custodians for, 130, 132, 139–40, 197

  designs at, 22, 29, 30, 32, 37–38, 40, 71, 74, 96

  elegance and style associated with, 3, 24–25, 38, 40, 63, 76, 96, 155, 156

  embargo-induced innovations of, 17–18, 22

  factories of, 22, 29, 30, 37;

  see also Scandicci factory

  fashion at, 40, 57, 95–99;

  see also Ford, Tom

  females excluded from inheritance of, 28

  Florentine base of, 3, 7, 8, 9, 251, 254, 307

  founding of, 10

  franchises of, 27, 31, 33, 41, 63, 64, 70, 112, 116

  growth of, 62–64, 66–76

  hiring practices of, 65–66

  Investcorp and, see Investcorp

  job security at, 21

  lack of profits of, 73, 74, 194, 195, 198, 251

  in litigation, 71, 78, 79, 85–89, 112, 117–21, 139, 213, 214, 216, 332

  logo of, 24

  LVMH’s attempted takeover of, 269, 310–26, 330

  Maurizio’s ambitions for, 104, 105, 107–11, 117, 126, 133–35, 141–42, 151–53, 155–60, 163–71, 181–88, 190–96, 199, 248–50, 255, 330, 331, 332

  Maurizio’s attempted buyback of, 182–85

  Maurizio’s lack of strong partner at, 248–50

  Maurizio’s sale of, 4, 219–20, 233, 235

  men’s line of, 39–40, 76, 258, 267

  movie stars and, 22–25, 32, 39–40, 76, 260, 267

  myths and legends about, 24, 34, 66, 86

  Paolo-Maurizio alliance and, 107–10, 120–21

  personal relationships established by, 22, 23, 33

  Pinault alliance with, 321–26

  promotion of, 77, 98, 165, 169–70, 251

  public offering of, 262–67

  Recamier deal and, 187–88, 193–94, 195

  restructuring agreement of, 83–84

  sales decline of, 194, 195, 199–200

  sales staff uniforms of, 36

  stock of, 63, 69, 78, 83, 105, 123–24, 128, 130, 134–36, 143–50, 162–63, 262–67, 269, 309–11, 313, 314, 316–21, 324, 325

  Swanson’s memorandum on, 182–84

  trademarks of, 17, 18, 23, 24, 27, 213, 216

  turnaround of, 246–69, 313, 332

  uneven pricing of, 163

  unsold inventory of, 201–2

  worker identification numbers at, 21–22

  Zorzi distribution rights for, 211

  Gucci, Aida Calvelli, 10, 12, 15, 28, 31, 45, 92

  Gucci, Aldo, 9–12, 14–15, 16, 35, 39, 92, 96, 116–26, 145–60, 303

  business role of, 14, 15, 17–19, 20, 23–24, 26–37, 40, 41, 48, 57, 62–71, 73–80, 82–87, 94–95, 98, 102–12, 119, 121, 122–23, 125, 140, 141, 146, 153, 195, 235, 330

  buyout of, 145, 147–50

  clothing of, 35, 148

  death of, 180–82

  De Sole’s standing up to, 80, 82

  divorce of, 29, 180–81

  as father, 30–33, 52, 57, 76–78, 148, 149

  Guccio’s relationship with, 18, 23–24, 26, 27

  health problems of, 97

  house and apartments of, 29, 30, 33, 58

  imprisonment of, 124–25

  marketing genius of, 18, 23–24, 33, 35, 94, 111

  marriages of, 15, 29, 181

  Maurizio charged with forgery by, 117–18, 126, 128

  Maurizio-Rodolfo rupture and, 55, 57–58, 59

  Maurizio’s relationship with, 48, 57–58, 76, 93–94, 102–7, 109, 116–19, 122–23, 125, 128, 140, 145, 148–49, 181–82, 193, 250, 299

  Paolo’s relationship with, 31–33, 74, 76–80, 82–87, 120, 124, 125, 331

  personality of, 14–15, 31–35

  Rodolfo’s death and, 100

  Sheraton’s interview with, 66

  tax liabilities of, 87, 104, 106–7, 120, 123–25

  Wunderman’s relationship with, 67–68

  Gucci, Alessandra (granddaughter), 60, 91, 92, 102, 114, 115, 121, 122, 126, 130–31, 168, 191, 224, 226–33, 237–40, 242, 250, 333–34

  Maurizio’s death and, 242, 243, 244

  murder trial and, 293, 298–304, 306

  Patrizia’s arrest and, 270–72, 274, 289–90

  Gucci, Alessandra Winklehaussen (“Sandra Ravel”) (grandmother), 16–17, 19, 46, 60, 103, 168, 219

  death of, 43, 45, 46, 55, 92

  Gucci, Alessandro, 31, 147, 333

  Gucci, Allegra, 60, 91, 92, 102, 114, 115, 121, 122, 126, 130–31, 168, 191, 224, 226–33, 250, 333–34

  Maurizio’s death and, 243, 244

  murder trial and, 293, 298–304, 306

  Patrizia’s arrest and, 271, 272, 274, 289–90

  Gucci, Bruna Palumbo, 29, 33, 83, 94, 106–7, 119, 181, 333

  Gucci, Cosimo, 31, 140, 333

  Gucci, Domitilla, 31, 333

  Gucci, Drusilla Cafferelli, 31, 57, 333

  Gucci, Elisabetta, 32, 71, 333

  Gucci, Enzo, 10

  Gucci, Filippo, 31, 333

  Gucci, Francesco, 31, 333

  Gucci, Gemma, 72, 89

  Gucci, Giorgio, 15, 18, 19, 235, 244, 303, 332–333

  at Aldo’s funeral, 181, 182

  Aldo’s secret pact with, 120

  buyout of, 145–49

  in family business, 27, 31, 32, 57, 69, 73, 78, 84, 85, 98, 104, 105, 107, 109, 110, 112, 121, 123, 139, 140, 141–42, 165

  Gucci Boutique opened by, 32

  marriages of, 31, 32

  Maurizio charged with forgery by, 117–18, 128

  Maurizio’s deals with, 121, 123, 139

  Gucci, Grimalda, see Vitali, Grimalda Gucci

  Gucci, Guccio (grandfather), 9–20, 26–32, 45, 63, 92, 102, 109, 141, 168

  Aldo compared with, 30–32, 35

  Aldo’s relationship with, 18, 23–24, 26, 27

  death of, 28–29

  embargo-induced innovations of, 17–18

  financial problems of, 13–14, 28

  foreign jobs and travels of, 9–10, 14

  leather trade learned by, 10

  marriage of, 10

  workshops opened by, 11, 20–21

  Gucci, Guccio (great-great grandson), 31, 244, 332

  Gucci, Jennifer Puddefoot, 72, 73, 74, 76, 83, 85, 89–90, 125

  Gucci, Maria, 69

  Gucci, Maria-Olympia, 31, 333

  Gucci, Maria Pia, 32, 165, 244, 332

  Gucci, Maurizio, 42–62, 90–171, 181–255, 330–36

  ambitions and visions of, 104, 105, 107–11, 117, 126, 133–35, 141–42, 151–53, 155–60, 163–71, 181–88, 190–96, 199, 248–50, 255, 330, 331, 332

  America’s Cup and, 108, 112–13, 126, 131

  birth of, 17, 45

  cars and driving of, 47–48

  childhood of, 19, 28, 45–47, 52, 92, 235

  China transaction of, 202

  confrontation avoided by, 105–6, 114–15, 193

  court appearance of, 146, 161–63

  death of, see Gucci murder

  disinheritance of, 43, 53

  divorce of, 229, 231, 233, 237, 238, 298, 299, 300, 305

  education of, 48, 54, 56, 93

  family background of, 9–20, 26–35

  in family business, 3, 47, 52, 76, 78, 80, 84, 85, 90, 91, 93–99, 102–14, 116–60, 163–71, 181–96

  finances of, 47–48, 58–59, 101, 102, 104–5, 134, 135, 139, 187, 197–220, 224, 226–29, 231, 235, 248

  financing agreement of, 146

  in flight from Milan, 127–30, 139

  forgery charges against, 105, 117–19, 126, 128, 145–46, 161–63

  freedom of, 115, 235, 238

  girlfriends of, 131, 191, 221–29, 234–43, 297–98, 300

  Guc
ci buyback attempted by, 182–85

  Gucci sold by, 4, 219–20, 233, 235

  inheritance of, 102, 104–5, 139, 197

  legal problems of, 104, 117–19, 121, 126, 139, 161–63, 189, 197, 217–18

  management style of, 190–96, 199, 201, 204

  marital problems of, 113–16, 121–22, 130–31, 193, 222, 227–33

  marriage of, 49, 54–57, 101, 259

  new projects of, 236–37, 239, 240, 277

  personal debts of, 197–98, 200, 204, 208, 211, 215, 217–18, 219, 235

  physical appearance of, 43, 44, 114, 131, 141, 209, 236, 237, 240, 250

  principles violated by, 205, 211

  product review by, 98, 167

  ready-to-wear and, 96–99, 170, 171

  sequestering of assets of, 208

  stock of, 105, 107–8, 110, 117–18, 128, 130, 139, 140, 145–46, 162–63, 187

  Swiss exile of, 130–32, 139, 143–44, 170

  in trucking business, 54, 55, 56

  Gucci, Olwen Price, 14–15, 18–19, 29, 31, 90, 180–81

  Gucci, Orietta Mariotti, 31, 333

  Gucci, Paolo, 15, 18, 19, 31, 139

  at Aldo’s funeral, 181, 182

  Aldo’s relationship with, 31–32, 74, 76–80, 82–87, 120, 124, 125, 331

  buyout of, 144–49

  death of, 90

  as designer, 32, 40, 71, 74, 77, 83, 84, 88–89, 96, 123–24, 331

  divorces of, 72, 89–90

  in family business, 27, 30, 32, 36, 57, 69, 71–74, 76–78, 82–87, 96, 103–10, 120–21, 141–42

  in litigation, 78, 79, 85–90, 120–21, 123

  marriages of, 32, 72

  Maurizio’s alliance with, 107–10, 120–21, 122, 146

  Maurizio’s feuds with, 121, 123–26, 128, 130, 145, 169, 182, 189, 235, 244

  in New York City, 74, 76–78, 96

  PG collection of, 77, 78

  Rodolfo’s conflicts with, 71, 73–74, 76, 77, 78

  Gucci, Patricia, 94, 181, 333

  Gucci, Patrizia (Paolo’s daughter), 32, 71, 244, 333

  Gucci, Patrizia Reggiani (Maurizio’s wife), 42–45, 48–61, 91–92, 128, 189, 236–39, 250, 333, 334

  arrest of, 270–72, 274–75

  diaries of, 116, 122, 230–33, 241, 245, 290, 299–300, 302

  divorce of, 229, 231, 233, 237, 238, 298, 299, 300, 305

  family background of, 49–51

  health problems of, 229–31, 293, 294, 298, 300

  marital problems of, 113–16, 121–22, 130–31, 193, 222, 227–33, 299, 300

  Maurizio influenced by, 95, 96, 98–99, 156, 229, 299

  and Maurizio’s affair with Paola, 222, 223, 224, 227–29, 237, 238, 242–43, 245, 300

  Maurizio’s dating of, 48–49, 52–53

  Maurizio’s first meeting with, 43–44

  Maurizio’s murder and, 241–45, 270–72, 274–75, 280, 282, 284, 286–306, 332

  in New York City, 58–59

  outrageous style of, 49, 50, 51, 272

  physical appearance of, 43, 44, 49, 51, 242, 272, 287, 298, 303

  revenge sought by, 227–28, 229, 231, 232, 237–38, 242, 298, 300, 301

  Rodolfo’s relationship with, 58–60, 101–2, 103

  Rodolfo’s warning to, 103, 113, 114

  trial of, 286–306

  Gucci, Roberto, 8, 12, 15, 18, 22, 32, 57, 71, 108, 235, 303, 331, 333, 335–336

  at Aldo’s funeral, 181, 182

  Aldo’s secret pact with, 120

  buyout of, 145–49

  in family business, 27, 31, 36, 41, 69, 70, 73, 78, 84, 98, 104, 105, 107, 109, 110, 112, 123, 139, 141–42

  on Grimalda’s inheritance, 28, 29

  Maurizio charged with forgery by, 117–18, 128

  Maurizio’s agreement with, 123

  World War II and, 18, 19

  Gucci, Rodolfo (“Maurizio D’Ancora”), 10, 12, 15–17, 45–49, 98–105, 168, 334, 335–336

  Aldo’s clashes with, 79–80, 82, 83, 86, 94

  death of, 100–105, 117, 118, 162

  as designer, 29, 37–38, 141

  De Sole hired by, 80, 82

  in family business, 19–20, 27, 29, 36, 37–38, 43, 46, 55, 63, 66–67, 69, 73, 76–80, 82, 84, 85, 98, 103, 108, 123, 141, 167

  film interests of, 12, 16–17, 19, 20, 25, 36, 46, 47, 48, 91–94

  health problems of, 78, 87, 91–93, 99–100, 103, 117, 229

  marriage of, 17, 46, 103

  Maurizio’s relationship with, 42–43, 45–49, 51–60, 67, 69, 76, 78, 91–95, 101–5, 115, 156, 193, 235, 248, 250

  Paolo’s conflicts with, 71, 73–74, 76, 77, 78

  Patrizia’s relationship with, 58–60, 101–2, 103

  physical appearance of, 16, 20, 30, 100

  property purchased by, 47, 93

  Venice painting belonging to, 168, 219–20

  will of, 104, 146

  in World War II, 19

  Gucci, Uberto, 31, 333

  Gucci, Ugo, 10, 12–13, 14

  Gucci, Vasco, 10, 55, 57

  death of, 69, 72

  in family business, 12, 19, 22–23, 27, 29, 30, 36, 63, 66–67, 108

  Gucci, Yvonne Moschetto, 32, 71, 72

  Gucci Accessories Collection (GAC), 70–71, 76, 82, 94, 98, 104, 112

  closing down of, 165–66

  Gucci America, 16, 26–31, 33–35, 57, 74–77, 88–89, 103, 105, 106, 112, 140, 145–50, 213–17, 251, 252, 330

  board of directors of, 108–10, 213–17

  Citibank’s pressure on, 199–200, 204

  De Sole as CEO of, 119, 135, 140, 145, 156–57, 166, 200, 206–7, 214–17, 235

  expansion of, 29, 48, 74–76; see also specific stores

  Guccio Gucci’s lawsuit against, 213, 214, 216

  Gucci Boutique, 32

  Gucci family, quarrels and rivalries in, 28–29, 32, 42–43, 52–58, 62–90, 96, 102–10, 116–26, 128, 130, 132–35, 139–41, 145, 169, 182, 330–32, 335–336; see also Gucci murder

  Gucci Galleria, 75, 76

  Gucci Licensing Services, 107–8, 120–21

  Gucci murder, 241–45, 261–62, 270–306, 332

  arrests in, 270–85

  described, 3–8

  plotting of, 280

  trial in, 286–306

  Guccio Gucci, 69, 82, 83, 86, 103–4, 107–10

  Gucci America’s stopping of payment to, 200, 205

  Gucci America sued by, 213, 214, 216

  Guccio Gucci SpA, 83, 90, 105, 118, 120, 145

  Gucci Parfums of America, 74

  Gucci Parfums SpA, 69–70, 73, 76, 79, 80, 82, 83, 86, 118

  Gucci Perfume International Limited, 67

  Gucci Plus, 83, 84, 205

  Gucci Room, 131–32

  “Gucci school” concept, 169

  Gucci Shops Inc., 27, 73, 74, 87, 106, 109, 111, 120

  Gucci stores, 306

  reduction in number of, 167, 183

  refurbishing of, 166–67, 190

  see also specific locations

  Gucci U.K., 194, 205–6

  Gucci vs. Gucci (Patrizia Gucci), 239

  Guicciardi, Luigi Maria, 161–63

  Guinness brewery, 312, 313

  Gulf War, 195

  “Hagen” (Delfo Zorzi), 210–11, 233, 277

  Hakamaki, Junichi, 251, 257

  Hallak, Elias, 138, 142–43, 184, 203, 204, 212–15, 218, 252

  Hardwick, Cathy, 174, 175, 176

  Harem (TV show), 233

  Harper’s Bazaar, 257, 259

  Harvard Business School, 330

  Hawaii, Gucci sales in, 269

  HdP, 332

  Hermès, 105, 266, 331

  Holden, Mr. (tanner), 23

  holding companies, 59–60, 69, 185

  Hong Kong, 85, 87, 202, 269

 

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