The House of Gucci
Page 48
Spencer Davidson, “Design,” Avenue, October 1980, pp. 99–101.
Ian Dear, “200 Years of Yachting History,” Camper & Nicholson’s Ltd. 1782–1982, as reprinted in Yachting Monthly, August 1982.
Denise Demong, “Gucci: The Poetic Approach to Business,” Women’s Wear Daily, December 22, 1972, p. 1.
E. J. Dionne, “Repairing the House of Gucci,” The New York Times, August 11, 1985, III, 5:1.
Carrie Donovan, “Fashion’s Leading Edge: Bergdorf Goodman, Resplendent in Crystal and Cloaked with Tradition, Strikes a New and Unexpected Pose as the Fashionable Women’s Mecca,” The New York Times Magazine, September 14, 1986, p. 103.
Hebe Dorsey, “Gucci Seeking a New Image,” International Herald Tribune, October 21, 1982, p. 7.
———, “Gucci Puts an Even Better Foot Forward—in New Moccasin,” International Herald Tribune, July 26, 1968, p. 6.
Victoria Everett, “Move over Dallas: Behind the Glittering Facade, a Family Feud Rocks the House of Gucci,” People, September 6, 1982, pp. 36–38.
Camilla Fiorina, “Sergio Bassi,” YD Yacht Design by Yacht Capital, December 1988, pp. 82–86.
Bridget Foley, “Gucci’s Mod Age,” W, May 1995, p. 106.
———, “Ford Drives,” W, August, 1996, p. 162.
Sara Gay Forden, “Gucci Is Expecting Break-Even Results Despite Sales Drop,” The Wall Street Journal, November, 14, 1991, second section, p. 2.
———, “Banks Putting Big Squeeze on Gucci Chief,” Women’s Wear Daily, April 26, 1993, p. 1.
———, “Gucci Denies Financial Straits,” Women’s Wear Daily, April 27, 1993, p. 2.
———, “Bringing Back Gucci,” Women’s Wear Daily, December 12, 1994, p. 24.
———, “Gucci on Wall Street: Launching Pad for Worldwide Growth,” Women’s Wear Daily, November 2, 1995, p. 11.
———, “Gucci’s Turnaround: From the Precipice to the Peak in 3 Years,” Women’s Wear Daily, May 2, 1996, p. 1.
———, “Prada Using Star Status to Expand on the Global Stage,” Women’s Wear Daily, February 15, 1996, p. 1.
Robin Givhan, “Gucci’s Strong Suit,” The Washington Post, May 5, 1999, C1.
Lauren Goldstein, “Prada Goes Shopping,” Fortune, September 27, 1999, pp. 83–85.
Adriana Grassi, “The Gucci Look,” Footwear News, April 28, 1966.
Robert Heller, “Gucci’s $4 Billion Man,” Forbes Global, February 8, 1999, pp. 36–39.
Lynn Hirschberg, “Next. Next. What’s Next?” The New York Times Magazine, April 7, 1996, pp. 22–25.
Thomas Kamm, “Art of the Deal: François Pinault Snatches Away Gucci from Rival LVMH,” The Wall Street Journal, March 2, 1999, p. 1.
Sarah Laurenedie, “Le Grand Seigneur,” W, January 2000.
Suzy Menkes, “Fashion’s Shiniest Trophy, Gucci Buys House of YSL for $1 Billion,” International Herald Tribune, November 16, 1999, p. 1.
Russell Miller, “Gucci Coup,” The Sunday Times, p. 16.
Sarah Mower, “Give Me Gucci,” Harper’s Bazaar, May 1995, p. 142.
John Rossant, “At Gucci, La Vita Is No Longer So Dolce,” Business Week, November 23, 1992, p. 60.
Barbara Rudolph, “Makeover in Milan,” Time, December 3, 1990, p. 56.
Galeazzo Santini, “Come Salire al Trono di Famiglia,” Capital, December 1982, pp. 12–20.
Eugenia Sheppard, “Sporting the Gucci Look,” International Herald Tribune, July 25, 1969, p. 12.
Mimi Sheraton, “The Rudest Store in New York,” New York, November 10, 1975, pp. 44–47.
Michael Shnayerson, “The Ford That Drives Gucci,” Vanity Fair, March 1998, pp. 136–52.
Amy Spindler “A Retreat from Retro Glamour,” The New York Times, March 7, 1995, p. B9.
Angela Taylor, “But at Gucci You’d Think People Had Money to Burn,” The New York Times, December 21, 1974, 12:1.
Lucia van der Post, “Is This the Most Delicious Man in the World?” How to Spend It, The Financial Times, issue 35, April 1999, p. 6.
Constance C. R. White, “Patterns: How LVMH May Make Its Presence Felt at Gucci, Now That It Controls 34.4% of the Stock,” The New York Times, January 26, 1999, fashion section, p. 1.
: SELECTED READINGS :
Teri Agins. The End of Fashion: The Mass Marketing of the Clothing Business. New York: William Morrow and Company, Inc., 1999.
Salvatore Ferragamo. Salvatore Ferragamo, Shoemaker of Dreams. Florence: Centro Della Edifini Srl., 1985 (from original publication, 1957).
Nadège Forestier and Nazanine Ravai. Bernard Arnault: Ou le gout du Pouvoir. Paris: Olivier Orban, 1990.
Gerald McKnight. Gucci: A House Divided. London: Sidgwick & Jackson, 1987, and New York: Donald I. Fine, Inc., 1987.
Angelo Pergolini and Maurizio Tortorella. L’Ultimo dei Gucci: Splendori e Miserie di una Grande Famiglia Fiorentina. Milan: Marco Tropea Editore, 1997.
Marie-France Pochna. Christian Dior. New York: Arcade Publishing, 1996.
Stefania Ricci. “Firenze Anni Cinquanta: Nasce La Moda Italiana,” in La Stanza delle Meraviglie: L’Arte del Commercio a Firenze dagli sporti medioevali al negozio virtuale. Florence: Le Lettere, 1998, pp. 78–87.
Hugh Sebag-Montefiore. Kings of the Catwalk: The Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessy Affair. London: Chapman, 1992.
: OTHER SOURCES :
Britain’s Channel Five documentary produced by Studio Zeta: Fashion Victim: The Last of the Guccis, November 1998.
Charlie Rose, PBS, interview with Tom Ford on December 28, 1999.
60 Minutes, CBS, “Gucci,” May 22, 1988.
Today, NBC, “Gucci Murder,” NBC Network, June 24, 1998.
Robert Gucci, “Il Cinema nella Mia Vita.” Private documentary production, November, 1982.
Searchable Terms
The pagination of this electronic edition does not match the edition from which it was created. To locate a specific passage, please use the search feature of your e-book reader.
Abraham, Lee, 154
Accornero, Vittorio, 37, 38
Adriana (cook), 228, 240, 241
Aga Khan, Shah Karim, 47, 108
Agnelli, Gianni, 47, 188, 191–92
AIDS Project Los Angeles benefit, 267
Alberti, Barbara, 231
Alexis Barthelay, 67
Alioto, Joseph, 95
Allied Bank International, 137
Alt, Carol, 98
Altman, Miriam, 145
American Express, 68
America’s Cup, 108, 112–13, 126, 131, 188
Amsterdam, 307, 318, 320–21, 324, 325, 326
Anglo American Manufacturing Research, 69, 126
Anselmi, Maddalena, 229
Antonio (butler), 203, 211, 215
Argenti, Filippo, 8
Armani, Giorgio, 3, 14, 95–96, 157, 158, 165, 167, 173, 313, 316
Armstrong, Penny, 89, 90
Arnault, Bernard, 249, 257, 269, 309–26, 328
Arno River, flooding of, 36–37
Artemis SA, 327
Auletta, Cosimo, 237–38, 242
Auriemma, Pina, 116, 233, 239, 275, 280, 282–84
murder trial and, 288, 290–302, 304–5
Avon Products, Inc., 138
Azario, Brenda, 158
Azienda Individuale Guccio Gucci, 10–14
Azzurra (boat), 112, 113
Bacci, Carlo, 21
bags, Gucci, 11, 14, 17, 21, 23, 24, 29, 39–40, 41, 75, 155, 163, 167, 200
bamboo-handle (0633), 22, 37, 72, 76, 164–65, 167, 256
canvas, 70–71, 165–66, 194, 205
for Gucci Boutique, 32
hobo, 165, 167
bags, Prada, 165, 309
Bahrain, 138, 159–60, 182
Ballerini, Alberta, 96, 97, 113, 248, 254
B. Altman & Company, 135, 152, 154, 155, 204
Bamber, David, 157–58, 178
Banca della Svizzera Italiana, 198, 208
Barbieri, Silvana, s
ee Reggiani, Silvana Barbieri
Barbizet, Patricia, 322
Bardon, John, 189–90, 191
Bassi, Sergio, 225, 226, 227
Batti, Salvatore, 274
Beene, Geoffrey, 154, 157
belts, 39, 41
Bergdorf, Herman, 152
Bergdorf Goodman, 151–53, 155, 254
Bergé, Pierre, 268, 326, 327, 328
Berlusconi, Silvio, 209, 287
Berry, Robert, 109
Bertelli, Patrizio, 209, 308–9, 317, 328
Beverly Hills, Calif., Gucci store in, 35–36, 39–40
Bianchi, Graziano, 146–47
Biuzzi family, 20
Blass, Bill, 154
Blort, 50, 54, 55
bombings, 2–3, 210
Boussac, 311
Braghetta, Signore, 47
Branchini, Armando, 327
Bridgestone, 133
Broderick, Vincent, 123, 124
Brown, Tina, 176
Brunei, Sultan of, 205, 208, 257
Bruno, Carlo, 222, 242, 244
Brussels, Gucci franchise in, 31, 41
Bucciol, Antonello, 8
Buckley, Richard, 171, 174–78, 258, 321
Bulgari, 3, 18, 266, 328
Buora, Carlo, 159, 160
Buscombe, Philip, 138, 199
Byblos, 157
Caffè Giacosa, 11
Caffè Italia, 113
Cafferelli, Drusilla, see Gucci, Drusilla Cafferelli
Callaghan, 152
Calvelli, Aida, see Gucci, Aida Calvelli
Camerini, Mario, 16
Camper & Nicholson, 60
canapa (hemp), 17, 20, 40
Cantini, Giorgio, 118, 162–63
canvas business, 70–71, 165–66, 194, 205, 211
Capital, 98
Caracciolo, Marcella, 191
Carcelle, Yves, 310, 311, 317
Cardin, Pierre, 105
Carpanese, Gabriele, 278–82, 298
Carter-Hawley–Hale, 152
Cartier, 64, 67, 99, 257
Caruso, Enrico, 169
Casa Grande, 20–21
Casella, Mario, 139
Cassol, Roberta, 100, 101, 105–6, 117–18, 162
Ceraulo, Benedetto, 275, 280, 284
murder trial and, 288, 290–91, 295, 304–5
Cesmig, Cem, 138, 140
Chanel, 152, 154, 259
Chaney, William R., 138
Chase Manhattan, 137–38, 198–99, 247
Cherry Blossom Farm, 59
Chesa D’Ancora, 47
Chesa Murézzan (“Maurizio’s house”), 47, 92, 121, 139
Chicago, Ill., Gucci store in, 63
Chloé, 173
Christian Dior, 105, 311, 312, 313
Christian Lacroix, 311
Christie, Agatha, 97–98
Churchill, Winston, 18
Cicala, Orazio, 275, 280, 284
murder trial and, 288, 290, 291, 293–96, 304–5
Cimino, Rita, 98, 158, 248
Cinema nella Mia Vita, Il (Film in My Life) (film), 46, 91–93
Cinzano, 112
Citibank, 198, 199–200, 204, 208
Citicorp, 239
Cleary, Gottlieb, Steen & Hamilton, 317
Cleaver, Alan, 157
Cochran, Alexander, 60
Collenghi, Carlo (“Carlos”), 281–85
Colombo, Charly, 222, 224, 225, 226, 239, 243, 334
Colombo, Giorgio, 222, 239
Colombo, Giovanni, 55–56
Colombo, Liliana, 52, 100, 102, 118, 162, 168, 219, 226, 230, 231, 236–37, 239, 240, 243
Colombo, Paola, see Franchi, Paola
Compagnie Financière Richemont, 257
Conner, William C., 87–88
Conti, Anthony R., 135
Corriere della Sera, 86, 130, 244–45
counterfeiting, 71, 78, 79
Court of Appeals, Milan, 161–63
Covington and Burlings, 81
Crédit Suisse, 108, 120, 208
Crédit Suisse First Boston, 263
Creole (formerly Vira) (boat), 60–61, 122, 126, 130, 139, 146, 188–92, 197, 228, 229, 233, 235, 236, 334
Crespi, Pilar, 159, 169, 194, 235–36
Cucchiani, Enrico, 132, 134
Cucci, Enrico, 18
cuoio grasso, 17, 21
Cuomo, Antonietta, 209, 228, 236, 240, 241, 242, 297
D’Aiello, Vittorio, 161–62
Daily Express (London), 119
“D’Ancora, Maurizio,” see Gucci, Rodolfo
Dante Alighieri, 8, 20
Dati, Gregorio, 8–9
Dedola, Gianni, 287, 292, 293, 302, 304
de Gaulle, Charles, 18
Degl’Innocenti, Claudio, 125, 165, 201–2, 205, 219, 252–53, 256
Designs by Paolo Gucci, 88–89, 90, 123–24
De Sole, Domenico, 34, 80–87, 100, 103, 106–9, 111–14, 123, 235, 240, 248, 249, 307–12
background of, 80–81
as Gucci America CEO, 119, 135, 140, 145, 156–57, 166, 200, 206–7, 214–17, 235
in Gucci turnaround, 249, 251–53, 255–56, 258–66, 268, 269
LVMH takeover attempt and, 310–12, 314–28
Maurizio’s loans from, 204, 215, 217–18, 252
De Sole, Eleanore Leavitt, 81, 107, 111, 204, 307, 308, 310, 314, 317–18
Diageo, 312
DIGOS (Italian political police), 3
Dimitruk, Paul, 136–37, 140, 142, 143, 144, 148, 150, 159, 195, 196, 254
Divine Comedy (Dante), 8, 20
Dolce & Gabbana, 167
Dorsey, Hebe, 38, 97–98
Dorso, Betty, 154
dresses, 40
drug trade, 273, 274, 276, 279, 281
Duchin, Peter, 76
Dugan, Frank, 27
Duty Free Shops (DFS), 269, 312, 313
Eglin Air Force Base, 124–25
Elbaz, Alber, 327
Emilia-Romagna, 49, 97
England, 11, 20, 183, 318
Aldo in, 15, 18, 22, 23
Guccio in, 9–10
in World War II, 19, 60
see also London
Envy perfume, launch of, 267–68
Epaminonda, Angelo, 291–92
ESOP (employee stock ownership plan), 319–21, 325
Esperienza, 333
Ethiopia, Italian invasion of, 17
European Community, 330
Extra Beat (boat), 191–92
eyewear, 140
Fairchild Publications, 174–75, 176
Falchi, Giuseppe, 274
Falcone, Giovanni, 3
Falconer, Ian, 172
Fascist Party, Italian (Partito Nazionale Fascista), 13, 19
fashion shows, 40, 75, 154, 167, 174, 175, 251, 255, 259, 266, 268, 329
in Florence, 25, 39, 95, 165, 258
Federated Department Stores, 71
Fendi, 96, 152, 317, 327–28, 332
Fendi, Adele, 327
Fendi, Carla, 177
Ferragamo, 3, 157, 332
Ferragamo, Salvatore, 17
Ferrari, Dante, 21–22, 23
Ferré, Gianfranco, 95, 249, 254
Fiat, 112
Fidinam, 208, 211
Finalmente Soli (film), 16
Financial Times, 159, 321
Fiorentini, Aurora, 22, 24
Fiorio, 38
Firestone, 72, 133
Flanz, William, 187, 194, 198–99, 201–5, 208, 211–14, 217, 218, 246–48, 250–54, 261
Flora scarf, 37–38
Florence, 3, 7–25, 57, 72–74, 78, 84, 110, 117–18, 125, 134, 146, 159, 167, 247, 250–53, 308, 332, 333
fashion shows in, 25, 39, 95, 165, 258
flood in, 36–37
Gucci base in, 3, 7, 8, 9, 251, 254, 307
Gucci factory in, 22, 29, 30, 37
Gucci stores in, 10–11, 14, 19–20, 36, 74, 85, 141
Gucci workshops in, 11, 20–21
Hotel de la Ville in, 30, 1
40
merchant class in, 8–9
Oltrarno in, 11–12, 20–23
tourists in, 11, 20
Via delle Caldaie in, 20–23, 37, 258
Via Tornabuoni in, 10–11, 20, 30, 36, 74, 333
Florida, 124–25
see also Palm Beach, Fla.
Forbes, 315, 322
Ford, Ruth, 171
Ford, Tom, 171–79, 206–7, 251, 254–63, 265–69, 307–8, 309, 311, 320–31, 332
LVMH takeover attempt and, 314, 316, 318, 320–25
Forte, Gabriella, 177
France, 18, 24, 218, 311–13, 318
see also Paris
Franchi, Paola, 221–29, 234–43, 245, 297–98, 300, 334
Franchini, Fabio, 6–7, 197–98, 203, 204, 209–11, 213, 217, 219, 229, 235, 240, 244
as Maurizio defender, 249–50
Paola’s relationship contract and, 238, 243
Patrizia’s threats and, 229, 232, 238, 242
Franzi, 10
Frida (psychic), 61, 169
Galeotti, Sergio, 249
Gallo, Carmine, 274–75
Gardini, Raul, 188
Geneva, 122, 149–50
Paolo-Maurizio meetings in, 107–8, 120–21
Genny SpA, 157
Gerani family, 157
Germany, 11, 19, 50, 318
GG monogrammed fabric, 40, 70, 72
Giacomini, Silvia, 97
Giammetti, Giancarlo, 249
Giorgini, Giovan Battisti, 25, 39
Giorgio Armani, 177, 249
Gittardi, Francesco, 29, 30, 33, 47, 65, 92, 100
Givenchy, 311, 313
Glaser, Robert, 138, 182–87, 212–16, 252
Godé, Pierre, 249, 310–13, 317, 320, 324–26
Goldman Sachs, 138
Goodman, Andrew, 152
Goodman, Edwin, 152
Gould, Milton, 109, 124
Grace, Princess of Monaco, 37–38
Grand Met, 312, 313
Guardia di Finanza, 7, 104, 126, 127–30
Gucci (company), 10–41, 62–220, 307–36
artisans of, 11, 14, 21–22, 72, 331
Asian crisis and, 269, 309, 330
autocratic customer relations of, 64–66