The House of Gucci
Page 50
Gucci store in, 64
Hooker, L. J., 135
Hooker Corp. Ltd., 135
House of Florence, 333
House of Savoy, 18
Hussein, Saddam, 137, 195
Huth, Johannes, 255, 264, 265, 266
Inferno (Dante), 8
inheritance taxes, 105, 117, 120
Internal Revenue Service (IRS), 87, 104, 106, 112, 120, 123
International Herald Tribune, 38, 41, 97, 328, 332
Investcorp, 136–50, 153, 156, 159–60, 162, 166, 182–88, 194–96, 211–20, 230, 235, 315, 316, 330
arbitration proceedings filed by, 217
attempts to unload Gucci of, 256–57
Gucci’s new partnership with, 185–87
Gucci’s poor performance and, 198–204
in Gucci turnaround, 246–66
Maurizio’s final offer from, 208–9
Maurizio’s lawsuit against, 217–18
Maurizio’s murder and, 261–62
Patrizia’s intervention with, 233
Iran, 198
Iraq, 137, 195
Irene, Princess of Greece, 14–15
Isnardi, Felice Paolo, 126
Italia (boat), 112–13, 121, 126
Italy:
Ethiopia invaded by, 17
fascism in, 13, 17, 19
tax evasion in, 106
in World War II, 18–19, 50
see also specific cities
Jacobs, Marc, 157, 176, 310
Japan, Japanese, 195, 210–11
as Gucci market, 63–64, 104, 183, 187, 255, 269
jewelry, 39, 41, 75, 164
Orocrocodillo, 99
see also watches, Gucci and
Joseph Magnin specialty stores, 63, 70
J. P. Morgan, 138
Kaner, Joan, 25, 155, 259
Katefid AG, 59
Kennedy, Jacqueline Bouvier, see Onassis, Jacqueline
Kennedy
Kennedy, John F., 25, 41, 81
Kessler, Larry, 212–13
kidnappings, 46, 47
Kirdar, Nemir, 136–38, 142–43, 182, 184–87, 198, 199, 203, 212–13, 249, 254, 257, 261, 262, 264, 265
background of, 137–38
Maurizio’s meetings with, 143, 186, 201, 218
Morante’s relationship with, 159–60
Klein, Calvin, 173, 175, 176
Klein, Constance, 310
Kravis, Henry, 316
Krieger, Bob, 98
Krier, Kevin, 259
Krizia, 95, 152, 159, 327
Kroll Associates, 321
Kuwait, 195
labor unions, 36, 250–51
Lagerfeld, Karl, 259
Lambertson, Richard, 157, 163–64, 170–71, 177, 256
Lanciaux, Concetta, 249, 313
Lane Bryant, 154, 155
Lang, Helmut, 317
La Spezia, 60, 61, 189
Las Vegas, Nev., Gucci boutique in, 63
Lauren, Ralph, 175
leather, leather trade, 10, 11, 19, 216, 332, 333
brindle pigskin, 23, 40
cuoio grasso, 17, 21
effects of World War II on, 17–18
Guccio’s learning of, 10
Le Cordeur, Denis, 245
Lee, Mark, 329
Leff, Naomi, 166–67
Leshin, Art, 111
Lessona, Logan Bentley, 35, 38, 39
Levi, Baron, 12–13
Lieber, James, 321, 324
Limberti, 333
loafers, Gucci, 35, 36, 38–39, 135, 165, 167
for men, 39, 76, 142, 164
Loeb, Walter, 153
L’Oiseau Bleu, 47, 93, 227, 231, 232–33
London, 135–43, 200–201, 212–13, 219, 261, 321
flea markets in, 164
Gucci Room in, 131–32
Gucci’s corporate headquarters in, 307–8
Gucci store in, 30, 205, 263, 268
Savoy Hotel in, 9–10, 14
trade fairs in, 23
Los Angeles, Calif., 138, 267
Louis Vuitton, 40, 105, 187, 255, 310–13
Lugano, 129–32, 143–44, 198, 211, 218, 219, 220, 228
Alessandra in, 304, 306, 333
luggage, 10, 96
Gucci, 11, 14, 17, 21, 24, 40, 76, 98, 163, 205–6
Luna Rossa (boat), 113
LVMH group (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton), 187, 249, 257, 263, 265, 269, 309, 310–26, 328, 330, 332
McArthur, James, 311
McCann Erickson, 169–70
McGrotha, Rosemary, 98
McGurn, Bill, 317
McLaughlin, Sheree, 131, 191, 222
Madonnina, 229–31
Magello, Carlo, 194, 205–6, 208, 255
Magnani, Anna, 16, 24
Malaparte, Curzio, 8
Maledetti Toscani (Damned Tuscans) (Malaparte), 8
Mandelli, Mariuccia, 95
Manetti Farrow, Maria, 70–71, 112, 119
Mariotti, Orietta, see Gucci, Orietta Mariotti
Martellini, Maria, 130, 132, 139–40, 158, 197–98
Massetti, Mario, 199, 202, 206, 208, 215, 218–20, 246, 248, 249, 253
Mattioli, Gianfranco, 249
May Department Stores Company, 154–55
Medici, Grand Duke Francesco de’, 75
Medici family, 8
Mello, Dawn, 151–60, 163–71, 177–79, 194, 200, 206–8, 235, 249, 251, 254, 255, 258, 261, 309, 330
archive created by, 164
background and career path of, 151–55
Maurizio’s coldness toward, 206
Menkes, Suzy, 328, 332
Mennen, 69
merchant class, Florentine, 8–9
Mercier, Hélène, 312, 319
Merlo, Don Mariano, 244
Merritt, Michael, 138
Messaggero, 86, 130
Metropolitan Museum of Art, 39
Metropolitan Tower, 89
Mexico City, pseudo Gucci store in, 71
Michelangelo, 11, 19
Middle East, 138, 159–60, 182, 195
Miglio, Nando, 98, 99
Milan, 1–8, 28, 42–58, 114–16, 127–35, 146, 193–94, 206–12, 214–50, 270–306, 309, 333–34
Bagutta in, 128–29
Cinema Manzoni premier in, 91–93
Club dei Giardini in, 57, 259
fashion industry in, 95–99, 167, 177–79, 251, 255, 259, 316
Gucci headquarters in, 167–68, 183, 187, 199, 206, 215, 219–20, 235–36, 246–47, 250, 251
Gucci stores in, 20, 29, 45, 46, 47, 58, 92, 99–100, 334
Maurizio’s apartments in, 59, 99, 102, 115, 126, 128, 197, 198, 221–26, 234–35, 239–43, 245
Maurizio’s flight from, 127–30, 139
Rodolfo’s apartment in, 45–46
Via Monte Napoleone in, 20, 126, 127, 128, 132, 334
Miligno, Monsignor, 287
Millfield Stables, 90
minibackpacks, 256
Mini-Flora, 38
Mirabella, 178
Missoni, Rosita, 95
Missoni, Tai, 95
Mitterrand, François, 311, 312
Modesto (drug lord), 273
Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, see LVMH group
Montecatini, 30
Morante, Andrea, 132–40, 143–44, 146–49, 159–60, 181, 182, 187–96, 249, 250, 254, 261
Creole voyage of, 188–92
Recamier deal and, 187–88, 193–94, 195
resignation of, 196, 203
Morgan Stanley, 132, 133, 135–36, 144–47, 159, 263, 311, 314, 318, 322
Moro di Venezia, Il (boat), 188
Moschetto, Yvonne, see Gucci, Yvonne Moschetto
Moses, Rebecca, 157
Mosimann, Anton, 131
Mosimann’s, 321
Gucci Room at, 131–32
Motoyama, Choichiro, 64, 187
Mussolini, Benito, 13, 17, 29, 287
Nannucci, Ubaldo, 126, 129
Naples, 239
Gucci franchise in, 116
Nazione, 120
New York, 66, 71
New York, N.Y., 24, 108–10, 124, 148–49, 151–57, 172–77, 198, 206, 228
Aldo’s apartment in, 29, 30, 33
Aldo thrown out of office in, 119
De Sole’s trips to, 109, 111–12
Giorgio in, 31
Gucci stores in, 26–28, 30, 31, 38, 39, 62–66, 74–78, 92, 155–56, 322
Maurizio in, 48, 58–59, 76, 91, 93, 151–53, 155–56
Roberto in, 31
New York Daily News Sunday, 76
New York Stock Exchange (NYSE), 136, 265, 266, 318, 319, 320
New York Times, 39, 57, 64, 65, 71, 110, 317
Niarchos, Eugenia, 60, 61
Niarchos, Marina Palma, 52
Niarchos, Stavros, 52, 60–61, 189
Niarchos, Tina, 60, 61
Niemark, Ira, 152, 155
Ninni, Filippo, 271–82, 284–85, 290, 298
background of, 273
entrapment plan devised by, 281–85
lead in Gucci murder of, 275–81
Nocerino, Carlo, 7, 242, 261–62, 275, 276–77, 281, 284, 333
murder trial and, 287, 288, 290–95, 297–305
Olympic Tower, 58–59, 200, 231
Onassis, Aristotle, 58
Onassis, Jacqueline Kennedy, 24, 86
Onorato, Giuseppe, 1–8, 241, 297
Operation Europe, 276
Orcofi, 187–88
Orlando, Vittoria, 43, 44
Orocrocodillo, 99
Palma, Marina, see Niarchos, Marina Palma
Palma de Mallorca, 189, 236
Palm Beach, Fla., 82–83, 94
Gucci store in, 30, 34
Palumbo, Bruna, see Gucci, Bruna Palumbo
Panorama, 111
Panzarini, Giovanni, 127, 129
Paris, 24, 25, 95, 126, 167, 194, 260–61, 277, 308, 310, 318, 321–26, 329
Gucci stores in, 30
Parmigiani, Signorina, 210, 211
Parodi, Piero Giuseppe, 209–10, 229, 233
Parsons School of Design, 173
Partito Nazionale Fascista (Italian Fascist Party), 13, 19
Patton, Boggs & Blow, 81, 103, 145
Pavarotti, Luciano, 75
Pecorella, Gaetano, 287, 293
Penn, Irving, 98
perfume, 66–67, 69–70, 73, 74, 76, 267–68
Perry Ellis, 176
Petacci, Clara, 29
PG collection, 77, 78
Philadelphia, Pa., Gucci store in, 63
Pia, Maria, see Gucci, Maria Pia
Piacentini, Marcello, 287
Pilone, Gian Vittorio, 100, 102, 106, 107, 108, 118, 127, 129, 130
Patrizia replaced by, 113, 114
Pinault, François, 321–27
Pinault Printemps Redoute SA (PPR), 322–26
Pirelli, 133
Pirovano, Luigi, 48, 94, 100, 101, 104, 127–31, 209, 229, 334–35
Pirri, Enrica, 33–34, 64, 87, 125
Pisano, Gail, 157, 259
Pochna, Marie-France, 313
Poitier, Sidney, 76
Poli, Roberto, 139
polizia, 7, 48
Porto Cervo, 108, 113
Porto Rotondo, 108
Prada, 96, 113, 157, 165, 209, 269, 308–9, 313, 316, 328, 332
Prada, Mario, 96, 308
Prada, Miuccia, 96, 165, 209, 308
Price, Olwen, see Gucci, Olwen Price
pricing, 163, 187, 200, 214, 215
Procuratore Generale, 126
Project Massimo, 316
psychics, 61, 169, 209, 228, 236, 297
Pucci, Emilio, 25, 39
Puddefoot, Jennifer, see Gucci, Jennifer Puddefoot
Ragazzi, Cesare, 290
Rainier, Prince of Monaco, 86
“Ravel, Sandra,” see Gucci, Alessandra Winklehaussen
ready-to-wear, 25, 95–99, 154, 167, 310, 327, 329
Gucci, 40–41, 96–99, 170, 177–79
Recamier, Henry, 187–88, 193–94, 195, 312
Reggiani, Enzo, 50, 297
Reggiani, Fernando, 44, 49–51, 53–59, 297, 333
Reggiani, Patrizia, see Gucci, Patrizia Reggiani
Reggiani, Silvana Barbieri, 49–53, 55, 56, 230, 231, 238, 239, 333
murder trial and, 297, 301–4, 306
Patrizia’s arrest and, 271, 274–75, 289
Repubblica, 97, 119, 130
Revlon, 316
Ricci, Renato, 250–54
Richardson, Oliver, 138
Riina, Salvatore (“Toto”), 3
Risicato, Nicola, 110–11
Ristorante Doney, 11
Rizzi, Alda, 229, 297
R. J. Reynolds Tobacco Corporation, 112
Rome, 10, 16, 273, 297, 332, 333
Aldo in, 18–19, 20, 29, 180–82
Alta Moda fashion week in, 40, 95
Gucci Boutique in, 32
Gucci store in, 18–19, 20, 23–24, 30, 31, 32, 33, 57, 64, 73, 110
Paolo in, 123–26
“PG” project party in, 123–24
Via Condotti in, 18, 20
in World War II, 18–19
Rossellini, Lina, 75
Rossellini, Renzo, 75
Rossellini, Roberto, 19, 22, 75
Rotaie (film), 16
Rothschild’s, 194
Rupert family, 257
Rusper, 89, 90
Russo, Toto, 166–68, 188–93, 221, 223–27
Saddle Agreement, 143, 185
saddlemaking legend, 24, 34, 66
Safilo SpA, 140
Saint-Laurent, Yves, 268, 327, 328
Saint Moritz, 52, 92, 117, 121, 192, 211–12, 222, 227–28, 229, 231, 232–33, 235, 238, 239, 240, 244
Maurizio’s exile in, 129, 130, 131, 139
mortgaging of Maurizio’s property in, 198, 208
Patrizia denied entry to, 122, 227, 299
Rodolfo’s acquisition of property in, 47, 93, 102
Saint-Tropez, 188, 192, 235, 333
Saks Fifth Avenue, 160, 198, 266
Sala Bianca fashion shows, 25, 39, 95
Salvemini, Domenico, 163
Samek, Renato Ludovici, 291–92, 295, 297, 302–6
Sander, Jil, 317, 332
San Francisco, Calif., 95
Gucci store in, 63
Sanofi Beauté, 323, 324, 326, 327, 328
San Vittore jail, 286, 288–90, 333
Sardinia, 108, 113, 131
Savarin, Marie, 111
Savio, Giulio, 75
Savioni, Ivano, 275, 278–85
murder trial and, 288, 290, 291, 294, 296, 300, 304–5
Scala, Flavio, 112
Scandicci factory, 21, 72–73, 76, 86, 94, 125, 163, 165, 208, 219, 253, 261–62, 265, 307, 309
scarves, 32, 163
Flora, 37–38
Scene, 174–75
Schwartz, Barry, 176
Schwarzkopf, Norman, 195
Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC), 264, 265, 320
Semprevivo, Philip C., 135
Sena, Giuseppe, 81–82
Sergio, Fernando, 117–19
Sergio Rossi, 329
Severin Montres Ltd., 68, 268, 269
Sganzini, Carlo, 144–45
Sheppard, Eugenia, 39, 41
Sheraton, Mimi, 66
shoes:
of Aldo, 35
Ferragamo, 17
shoes, Gucci, 17, 19
loafers, 35, 36, 38–39, 76, 135, 142, 164, 165, 167
mock, 71
Simonato, Fabio, 196, 206
Simpson, O. J., 292
Simpson, Scott, 319
Singer, Bob, 314, 324
Sisters of Mercy, 126
60 Minutes (TV show), 149
Skadden, Arps, Slate, Meagher & Flom, 319
Skibinska, Chantal, 31, 33
Slimane, Hedi, 327
Slowik, Stephen, 157
Smithsonian Institution, 40
/> Società dei Giardini, 259
Solari, Franco, 46, 47, 104
Soprani, Luciano, 97, 170
Sotis, Lina, 244–45
Speiser, Stuart, 78, 85
Spindler, Amy, 259
Stancato, Enzo, 90
Stern, Edward, 87
Studio 54, 172, 173
Studzinski, John (“Studs”), 136–37, 140
Sui, Anna, 157
“suiters,” Gucci, 20
Supreme Court, New York, 145
Supreme Court, U.S., 90
Susy (Patrizia’s friend), 114–15
Suzy (gossip columnist), 76
Swanson, Rick, 140–45, 194, 199, 200, 208, 211–15, 219, 220, 252, 263–64, 314
Aldo’s dealings with, 149, 150
Gucci research and report of, 182–85
Switzerland, 16, 18, 129–31, 208, 236
watch production in, 68–69
see also Geneva; Lugano; Saint Moritz
Tangentopoli, 288–89
Tansky, Burt, 157, 195
Taylor, Elizabeth, 24, 44
Texas Pacific Group, 328
Tiffany & Company, 64, 136, 138–39
Time, 76, 157
Together in the Dark (film), 16–17
Togliatti, Giancarlo, 7–8, 271, 303–5
Toker, Sencar, 203, 208–9, 214–15, 218, 254, 257
Tolstoy, Leo, 330
tourists, tourism, 11, 14, 18, 20, 269
Maurizio’s new projects in, 236–37, 240
Town & Country (film), 8, 152
Traini, Paolo, 291
Trofino, Paolo, 298
Trussardi, 96
Tullia (governess), 45, 46, 100, 104