Milk

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Milk Page 41

by Anne Mendelson


  eggs:

  “Buttered” (Skillet-Custard Eggs), 8.1

  Poached, in Yogurt Sauce, Turkish (Çilbir), 6.1

  scrambled

  see also butter-and-egg custards

  Eliot, George

  England, see Great Britain, English cuisine

  enzymes, cheeses and, 1.1, 9.1, 9.2

  Épinards à la Crème (Creamed Spinach, Madame Saint-Ange), 5.1

  Escherichia coli

  Ethiopia, Ethiopian cuisine

  Nit’r Kibeh (Spiced Clarified Butter), 8.1, 8.2

  evaporated milk, 5.1, 5.2

  Everyone Eats Well in Belgium Cookbook (Van Waerebeek), 7.1

  Farmer, Fannie, 5.1, 8.1

  farmer cheese, 9.1, 9.2

  as Liptauer base, 9.1

  fat, see milkfat

  fat-free milk, see skim milk

  fatty acids, 8.1, 8.2

  saturated, health concerns and

  feeding dairy cows, 2.1, 2.2, 3.1, 3.2

  fermentation, prf.1, 1.1, 2.1, 6.1, 7.1

  alcoholic, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3, 9.1

  fresh cheeses and, 1.1, 9.1

  lactic-acid, 6.1, 9.1; see also bacteria, lactic-acid

  yogurt and, 6.1, 6.2, 9.1

  feta, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3

  as Liptauer base, 9.1

  Milk Toast with, 5.1

  Spread, Whipped (Tyrokafteri or Htipiti), 9.1

  “filled” milk

  Fisher, M. F. K., 5.1, 8.1

  flour:

  and butter in pastry

  and butter in sauces, 8.1, 8.2

  “Fontainebleau”

  Food and Drug Administration, U.S. (FDA), 2.1, 5.1

  Food of London, The (Dodd)

  Foods of Greece, The (Kremezi)

  Fragrant Harbor Taste (Hom)

  fraisage

  France, French cuisine, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 5.1, 5.2, 6.1, 7.1, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3

  Cervelle de Canut, 9.1

  Cremets d’Angers, 5.1

  Pâte Brisée, 8.1, 8.2

  Sauce Béchamel Maigre, 5.1

  French Provincial Cooking (David), 5.1, 8.1

  Fried, Barbara R.

  Fried Bananas with Crema, 7.1

  “Fried Milk,” Chinese, 5.1

  Fritters, Pot-Cheese, Russian (Syrniki or Tvorozhniki), 9.1

  fromage blanc, fromage frais

  “Fromage de Fontainebleau”

  From My Mother’s Kitchen (Sheraton), 7.1

  galactose, 2.1, 2.2

  Garlic-Yogurt Sauce, 6.1

  gelatin, in Panna Cotta and Relatives, 5.1

  Germany, German cuisine, 1.1, 1.2, 7.1, 9.1, 9.2

  Hoppelpoppel: Eggnog with a Difference, 5.1

  Ghee (Indian Clarified Butter), 1.1, 1.2, 8.1, 8.2

  Glorious Foods of Greece, The (Kochilas)

  glucose, 2.1, 2.2

  goat cheese

  as base for Whipped Cheese Spread, 9.1

  Fresh, with Cultures and Rennet, 9.1

  goats and goats’ milk, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 1.10, 1.11, 1.12, 2.1, 4.1, 8.1, 9.1

  lactation in, 4.1, 4.2

  yogurt made from, 1.1, 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, 6.4, 6.5

  Goldstein, Darra

  Gourmet

  grasses, ruminant, digeston of

  Gravy, Pan, with Cream, 5.1

  Great Britain, English cuisine, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 2.1, 2.2, 5.1, 9.1

  breeding of cows in

  Clotted Cream, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 5.1, 5.2

  rise of market for fresh milk in

  Greece, Greek cuisine, 1.1, 1.2, 6.1, 6.2, 8.1, 9.1

  Tyrokafteri or Htipiti (Whipped Feta-Cheese Spread), 9.1

  yogurt in

  see also feta; tarhana or trahana

  greens:

  Mashed Potatoes with Milk and (Irish Champ), 5.1

  Saag Panir or Palak Panir, 5.1

  grosse Sacher-Kochbuch, Das (Maier-Bruck)

  Guernsey cows, 2.1, 2.2, 5.1, 5.2, 8.1

  Gujarati cuisine:

  Shrikhand (Saffron-Scented Yogurt Dessert), 6.1

  Stovetop Corn Pudding (“Corn Kees”), 5.1

  Guns, Germs, and Steel (Diamond), 1.1

  half-and-half, 5.1, 5.2

  Hangop (Dutch Buttermilk Dessert), 7.1

  Hazan, Marcella

  Hazelton, Nika Standen

  health issues, 2.1, 2.2

  and claims on behalf of yogurt, 6.1, 6.2

  heart disease, 2.1, 2.2

  heavy cream, 5.1, 5.2

  Herring with Sour Cream Sauce, 7.1

  Hibben, Sheila

  high-temperature/short-time pasteurization (HTST), 2.1, 3.1

  Hindu creation myth, 1.1, 1.2

  Hollandaise Sauce, 8.1, 8.2

  Holstein-Friesian cows, 2.1, 3.1, 4.1, 8.1

  Hom, Ken

  homogenization, 1.1, 2.1, 2.2, 3.1, 3.2, 4.1, 5.1, 7.1

  Hoppelpoppel: Eggnog with a Difference, 5.1

  hormones

  horses, mares’ milk, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 7.1, 7.2

  Hot Chocolate, 5.1

  How to Cook a Wolf (Fisher)

  Htipiti (Whipped Feta-Cheese Spread), 9.1

  Hungary, Hungarian cuisine, 6.1, 7.1

  Chicken Paprikás, 7.1

  Liptauer Cheese, 9.1

  ice cream, 2.1, 5.1

  custard-based vs. “Philadelphia”

  see also vanilla ice cream

  Iced Coffee, Thai-Style, 5.1

  imitation milks

  immigration, prf.1, prf.2, 1.1, 9.1

  India, Indian cuisine, prf.1, prf.2, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 4.1, 5.1

  buttermilk in, 6.1, 7.1

  Chicken Salad à la Tandoor, 6.1

  “Corn Kees” (Gujarati Stovetop Corn Pudding), 5.1

  Cucumber Pachadi, 6.1

  culinary traditions in, 1.1, 1.2

  “Curd Rice”, 6.1

  Ghee (Clarified Butter), 1.1, 1.2, 8.1, 8.2

  Kadhi or Karhi (North Indian Thick Buttermilk Soup), 7.1

  milch animals in

  Moru Kozhambu (South Indian Buttermilk Soup), 7.1

  Shrikhand (Saffron-Scented Yogurt Dessert), 6.1

  Vegetarian Malai Kofta, 5.1

  Walnut-Yogurt Chutney, 6.1

  yogurt in, 1.1, 6.1, 6.2, 6.3, 6.4, 6.5, 6.6, 6.7

  see also chhenna; lassi; panir; raitas

  Invitation to Indian Cooking, An (Jaffrey)

  Irish Champ (Mashed Potatoes with Milk and Greens), 5.1

  Italy, Italian cuisine, 1.1, 8.1

  Mascarpone, 5.1

  Panna Cotta and Relatives, 5.1

  ricotta in, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3

  Jaffrey, Madhur, 6.1, 7.1

  Jersey cows, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 3.1, 4.1, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 8.1

  Jewish cuisine and food traditions, 1.1, 1.2, 2.1, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3, 8.1, 9.1, 9.2

  Jones, Evan, 5.1, 7.1

  Jones, Judith

  Joy of Cooking, 5.1, 7.1, 8.1

  Julius Caesar

  junket

  Non-Nursery, 9.1

  Kadhi or Karhi (North Indian Thick Buttermilk Soup), 7.1

  Kamman, Madeleine

  Kaneva-Johnson, Maria, 5.1, 6.1

  Kashmiri Walnut-Yogurt Chutney, 6.1

  Kaufman, Edna Ramseyer

  kaymak, 5.1, 5.2

  kefir, 1.1, 7.1, 7.2

  Kentucky Housewife, The (Bryan)

  Keys, Ancel

  Koch, Robert

  Kochilas, Diane, 6.1, 6.2

  Kofta, Vegetarian Malai, 5.1

  Köfte, Lamb, in Yogurt Sauce, 6.1

  Kremezi, Aglaia

  kugel:

  “Meets Borek”, 9.1

  Savory Lokshen (Noodle Pudding), 9.1

  kumys (kumis or koumiss), 1.1, 7.1, 7.2

  kvas or kwas

  lactalbumins, lactoglobulins

  lactase, lactase persistence

  lactation, 1.1, 4.1

  lactic acid, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3

  see also bacteria, lactic-acid


  lactose, 1.1, 2.1, 2.2, 4.1, 5.1, 6.1

  reduced-, dairy products, 2.1, 5.1

  tolerance or intolerance for, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 4.1, 5.1, 6.1, 6.2

  Lamb Köfte in Yogurt Sauce, 6.1

  laminitis

  Lang, George

  lassi

  Mango, 6.1

  Salt, 6.1

  seasoning variations for, 6.1

  Sweet, Punjabi-Style, 6.1

  Latin America, Latin American cuisines, 1.1, 1.2, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 5.4, 9.1

  Ají de Leche (Venezuelan Milk-Chile Infusion), 5.1

  Batidos (Milkshakes), 5.1, 5.2

  crema

  see also dulce de leche

  leaveners, sour milk and

  leeks:

  Irish Champ (Mashed Potatoes with Milk and Greens), 5.1

  Vichyssoise, 5.1

  Legendary Cuisine of Persia, The (Shaida)

  lemon:

  Curd, 8.1

  Sponge Pudding, 5.1

  Tart, 8.1

  Leslie, Eliza

  light cream, 5.1, 5.2

  Lime Curd, 8.1

  Lincoln, Mary

  lipolysis

  Liptauer Cheese, 9.1

  Lockwood, Yvonne and William

  Lokshen Kugel, Savory (Noodle Pudding), 9.1

  Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth

  Los Angeles Times

  low-fat milk, 2.1, 5.1

  Maier-Bruck, Franz

  main dishes:

  Beef Stroganoff, 7.1

  Buttermilk Potatoes, 7.1

  Champ, Irish (Mashed Potatoes with Milk and Greens), 5.1

  Chicken Paprikás, or Paprikahuhn, 7.1

  Chicken Salad à la Tandoor, 6.1

  Çilbir (Turkish Poached Eggs in Yogurt Sauce), 6.1

  “Corn Kees” (Gujarati Stovetop Corn Pudding), 5.1

  “Fried Milk,” Chinese, 5.1

  Lamb Köfte in Yogurt Sauce, 6.1

  Saag Panir or Palak Panir, 5.1

  Vegetarian Malai Kofta, 5.1

  malai

  Kofta, Vegetarian, 5.1

  maltaise sauce

  Malted, Chocolate, 5.1

  malted-milk powder, 5.1, 5.2

  mammary glands, 1.1, 4.1

  Mango Lassi, 6.1

  Marcella Cucina (Hazan)

  mares’ milk, see horses, mares’ milk

  marinade, buttermilk as

  Mascarpone, 5.1

  Mashed Potatoes with Milk and Greens (Irish Champ), 5.1

  Massialot, François

  mastitis

  Mayhew, Henry, 2.1, 9.1

  medieval Europe

  Mediterranean Grains and Greens (Wolfert)

  Melting Pot: Balkan Food and Cookery, The (Kaneva-Johnson), 5.1, 6.1

  Melting Pot of Mennonite Cookery 1874–1974, The (Kaufman)

  Mennonite Buttermilk “Salad”, 7.1

  Mesopotamia

  Metchnikoff, Élie

  Mexican Dulce de Leche (Cajeta Mexicana), 5.1

  Michael Field’s Cooking School

  milk (fresh unsoured), prf.1, prf.2, prf.3, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 2.1, 5.1, 5.2

  buying

  canned, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3

  clabbered, 2.1, 9.1

  dried or powdered

  earliest experiments in eating of

  efforts to boost production of

  infusing with other essences

  label designations and

  niche marketing and, 2.1, 2.2, 5.1

  nutritional reputation of, 1.1, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 3.1

  organic, 3.1, 3.2

  price regulation and price supports and

  raw vs. pasteurized, 3.1, 7.1

  rise of urban market for

  see also sour milk; specific recipes listed on this page

  milk-based sauces

  Ají de Leche (Venezuelan Milk-Chile Infusion), 5.1

  Spicy-Milky Peanut Sauce, 5.1

  “White Sauce” or Sauce Béchamel Maigre, 5.1

  milkfat, 4.1, 8.1, 8.2

  cow breeding and, 2.1, 2.2

  dairy processors and, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 3.1

  health concerns and, 2.1, 2.2

  milk and cream designations and

  milking, origins of

  Milk Punch, 5.1

  Milkshakes, Latin American (Batidos), 5.1, 5.2

  Milk Toast, 5.1

  Miss Leslie’s Directions for Cookery (Leslie)

  Modern Cookery for Private Families (Acton)

  molds, 7.1, 7.2

  monounsaturated fatty acids, 2.1, 2.2

  Monsanto Corporation

  Moru Kozhambu (South Indian Buttermilk Soup), 7.1

  Mouflon, 1.1

  Murrell, John

  mushroom(s):

  Pirozhki with Sour Cream Pastry, 7.1

  with Sour Cream Sauce, 7.1

  National Cook Book, The (Hibben)

  Neolithic civilization, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3

  Netherlands, Dutch cuisine, 1.1, 7.1

  Buttermilk Dessert (Hangop), 7.1

  Hollandaise Sauce, 8.1, 8.2

  neufchâtel

  New Englandish Clam Chowder, 5.1

  New Yorker

  New York Times Menu Cookbook, The (Claiborne)

  niche marketing, 2.1, 2.2, 5.1, 6.1

  Nit’r Kibeh (Ethiopian Spiced Clarified Butter), 8.1, 8.2

  nomadism, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3

  nonfat milk, see skim milk

  Noodle Pudding (Savory Lokshen Kugel), 9.1

  Northeastern Cow Belt, 1.1, 1.2, 5.1, 7.1, 7.2, 9.1, 9.2

  culinary traditions in

  milch animals in

  North Indian Thick Buttermilk Soup (Kadhi or Karhi), 7.1

  Northwestern Cow Belt, 1.1, 1.2, 5.1, 9.1

  culinary traditions in, 1.1, 2.1

  influx of immigrants and

  lactose tolerance in, 1.1, 2.1

  in medieval times

  milch animals in, 1.1, 1.2

  in Roman era

  100 Easy-to-Make Gujarati Dishes (Shroff and Desai)

  1,000 Indian Recipes (Batra)

  okroshka

  omasum

  Onion-Apple Cream Soup, 5.1

  organic milk, 3.1, 3.2

  Ozan, Özcan, 6.1, 6.2

  pachadis

  Cucumber, 6.1

  Palak Panir, 5.1

  Pan Gravy with Cream, 5.1

  panir, 1.1, 5.1, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3

  Homemade, 5.1

  Saag or Palak, 5.1

  Panna Cotta and Relatives, 5.1

  Papashvily, Helen and George

  Parmalat

  Paskha (Russian Easter Dessert), 9.1

  Pasteur, Louis

  pasteurization, 1.1, 2.1, 2.2, 6.1, 7.1

  raw-vs.-pasteurized debate and

  see also ultrapasteurization

  pastry:

  butter in, 8.1, 8.2

  Sour Cream, 7.1

  pâte brisée

  Basic, 8.1

  pâte sablée

  Pâte Sucrée, 8.1, 8.2

  Peanut Sauce, Spicy-Milky, 5.1

  Persian wild goat, 1.1

  Persian Yogurt Drink (Doogh), 6.1

  phase inversion, 4.1, 8.1

  phases of milk

  pickled cheeses, see brined cheeses

  pie doughs, American

  pigs, 1.1, 1.2, 9.1

  pilafs:

  Barley, with Whey, 9.1

  Bulgur, with Whey, 9.1

  Pirozhki, Mushroom, with Sour Cream Pastry, 7.1

  Please to the Table (Bremzen)

  Pliny the Elder

  plowing, milch animals in, 1.1, 1.2

  Poland, Polish cuisine:

  “Chłodnik,” Michael Field’s (Cold Savory Buttermilk Soup), 7.1

  Chłodnik Litewski (Cold Beet Soup), 7.1

  polyunsaturated fatty acids, 2.1, 2.2

  Popara, 5.1

  porridges, 1.1, 1.2

  see also tarhana or trahana

  potatoes:


  Buttermilk, 7.1

  Mashed, with Milk and Greens (Irish Champ), 5.1

  Scalloped, 5.1

  Vichyssoise, 5.1

  pot cheese, 9.1, 9.2

  Fritters, Russian (Syrniki or Tvorozhniki), 9.1

  powdered milk

  prehistoric milking traditions, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3

  Presilla, Maricel

  price regulation, price supports

  puddings:

  Chocolate, 5.1

  Corn, Gujarati Stovetop (“Corn Kees”), 5.1

  Lemon Sponge, 5.1

  Noodle (Savory Lokshen Kugel), 9.1

  Rice, 5.1

  Punch, Milk, 5.1

  Punjabi-Style Sweet Lassi, 6.1

  quark or quargel, 1.1, 9.1

  queso blanco, queso fresco, 9.1, 9.2

  Radish-Cucumber Sour Cream Sauce, 7.1

  raitas

  Banana, 6.1

  Cucumber, 6.1

  rancidity, 2.1, 8.1

  Ransome, Arthur

  raw milk, 3.1, 6.1, 7.1

  reduced-fat milk, 2.1, 5.1

  refrigeration, 2.1, 2.2, 5.1

  reindeer

  rennet, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4, 9.5

  Fresh White Cheese with Cultures and, 9.1

  Non-Nursery Junket, 9.1

  reticulum

  Revani (Yogurt-Semolina Cake with Lemon Syrup), 6.1

  rice:

  “Curd”, 6.1

  Pudding, 5.1

  ricotta, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3

  Roden, Claudia

  Rome and Romans, ancient

  ropy milks

  roux, 8.1, 8.2

  rumen, rumination, 2.1, 2.2, 8.1

  Russia, Russian cuisine, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 8.1, 9.1

  cultured milk in, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3

  Easter Dessert (Paskha), 9.1

  fresh cheeses in, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4, 9.5, 9.6

  Mushroom Pirozhki with Sour Cream Pastry, 7.1

  Pot-Cheese Fritters (Syrniki or Tvorozhniki), 9.1

  “Russian Cream,” 5.1, 5.2

  Saag Panir, 5.1

  Sabban, Françoise

  Saffron-Scented Yogurt Dessert (Shrikhand), 6.1

  Saint-Ange, Madame E., 5.1, 5.2

  Salad Dressing, Buttermilk, 7.1

  salads:

  Chicken, à la Tandoor, 6.1

  Smoked Whitefish, 7.1

  Zucchini-Yogurt, with Fresh Dill, 6.1

  Salt Lassi, 6.1

  saturated fatty acids, 2.1, 8.1

  sauces

  Ají de Leche (Venezuelan Milk-Chile Infusion), 5.1

  Beurre Blanc/Beurre Rouge, 8.1

  Beurre Manié for, 8.1

  Beurre Noir/Beurre Noisette (“Black Butter”/“Brown Butter”), 8.1

  Buttermilk Salad Dressing, 7.1

  cold, sour cream or crème fraîche as

  Crème Anglaise (Stirred Custard), 5.1

  Cucumber-Radish Sour Cream, 7.1

 

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