Pastrami on Rye
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63. Philip Roth, Portnoy’s Complaint (New York: Vintage, 1967), 90.
64. Jesse Brown, Search Engine radio show, April 24, 2007, http://www.neatorama.com/2007/04/24/jews-chinese-food/.
65. Miryam Rotkovitz, “Kashering the Melting Pot,” in Lucy M. Long, ed., Culinary Tourism (Lexington: University of Kentucky Press, 2010), 175.
66. Ruth Grossman and Bob Grossman, The Chinese-Kosher Cookbook (New York: Pocket Books, 1999).
67. Interview with the author, 11/27/2009.
68. Bernstein’s on Essex menu, personal collection of the author.
69. Henry Roth, Call It Sleep (New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1992), 320.
70. Quoted in Richard Juliani and Mark Hutter, “Research Problems in the Study of Italian and Jewish Interaction in Community Settings,” in Jean A. Scarpaci, ed., The Interaction of Italians and Jews in America (Staten Island, NY: American Italian Historical Association, 1975), 47.
71. Interview with author, 7/7/2010.
72. John Mariani, “Everybody Likes Italian Food,” American Heritage 40.8 (1989), http://54.201.12.217/content/“everybody-likes-italian-food”. See also Mariani, How Italian Food Conquered the World (New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2011).
73. Interview with author, 12/15/2007.
74. Mimi Sheraton, “A Twin Success in Italian Cuisine,” New York Times (7/8/1983).
75. Mimi Sheraton, “From Alan King, Tales of a Happy Eater at Large,” New York Times (10/28/1981).
76. See Mariani, How Italian Food Conquered the World.
77. Quoted in Mimi Sheraton, “ The Food Tastes of Tastemakers,” New York Times (11/3/1982), C1.
78. Ari L. Goldman, “Rivington St. Wine Tour,” New York Times (1/13/1978), C15.
79. Jenna Weissman Joselit, “How a Slum Became a Shrine,” Jewish Social Studies 2 (1996): 54–63.
80. Hasia Diner, Lower East Side Memories (Princeton: Princeton University Press, 2002), 99.
81. Calvin Trillin, “A Sunday-Morning Tale,” New Yorker (2/24/1973), 114–115.
82. Patricia Wells, “Delivering the Goods, Any Way,” New York Times (6/27/1979), C3.
83. Mimi Sheraton, Eating My Words: An Appetite for Life (New York: Harper Perennial, 2006), 26.
84. Ad for Coca-Cola, Look magazine (6/30/1970), 16.
85. “Samurai Deli,” originally aired 1/17/1976, on Saturday Night Live: The Best of John Belushi (Lions Gate, 2005), DVD.
86. Interview with the author, 4/14/2010.
87. Peter N. Carroll, It Seemed Like Nothing Happened: America in the 1970s (New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press, 1990), 307.
88. Barry Glassner, “Fitness and the Postmodern Self,” Journal of Health and Social Behavior 30 (6/1989): 183.
89. Glassner, “Fitness and the Postmodern Self,” 186.
90. Carroll, It Seemed Like Nothing Happened, 310.
91. “Eating Right for Less: Salt and Fats Linked to Health,” Milwaukee Journal (11/24/1975), 23.
92. Barbara Gibbons, “Slim Gourmet,” Reading Eagle (4/13/1977), 41.
93. Robert C. Atkins, Dr. Atkins’ Diet Revolution (New York: Bantam, 1981), 269–270.
94. See Frances Moore Lappe, Diet for a Small Planet (New York: Ballantine Books, 1971).
95. Isadore Barmash, “The Big Kosher Salami War,” New York Times (6/6/1987), 37.
96. Stop & Shop advertisement, The Hour (Norwalk, CT) (5/25/1977), 15.
97. Leonard S. Bernstein, “Death by Pastrami,” Literary Review, Spring 2001, reprinted in Leonard S. Bernstein, The Man Who Wanted to Buy a Heart (New York: UNO, 2012).
98. “The Fatigues,” Seinfeld, season 8, episode 6, originally aired 10/31/1996 (Sony Pictures, 2012), DVD.
99. Josh Kun, “The Yiddish Are Coming; Mickey Katz, Antic-Semitism, and the Sound of Jewish Difference,” American Jewish History 87.4 (1999): 368.
100. M. Cohen, Overweight Sensation, 88.
101. Ken Kalfus, “Shine On, Harvey Bloom,” Commonweal (4/22/1994), 15.
102. Gerald Nachman, Seriously Funny: The Rebel Comedians of the 1950s and 1960s (New York: Pantheon, 2003), 19.
103. Isaac Rosenfeld, “Adam and Eve on Delancey Street,” in Preserving the Hunger: An Isaac Rosenfeld Reader, ed. Mark Shechner (Detroit: Wayne State University Press, 1988), 146–147.
104. Eve Jochnowitz, “‘Send a Salami to Your Boy in the Army’: Sites of Jewish Memory and Identity at Lower East Side Restaurants,” in Hasia R. Diner, Beth Wenger, and Jeffrey Shandler, eds., Remembering the Lower East Side (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2000), 212–225.
105. See Dana Evan Kaplan, Contemporary American Judaism: Transformation and Renewal (New York: Columbia University Press, 2009), 161–205.
106. Skyscraper, book by Peter Stone, lyrics by Sammy Cahn, and music by Jimmy Van Heusen, 1965 original cast recording (DRG, 2002), CD.
107. Woody Allen, “Thus Ate Zarathustra,” New Yorker (7/3/2006).
108. Shepard Sobel, “From the Director,” in A Playgoer’s Supplement to Hamlet, Pearl Theatre Company, 2007–2008 season brochure, 8.
109. Henry Bial, Acting Jewish: Negotiating Ethnicity on the American Stage and Screen (Ann Arbor: University of Michigan Press, 2005), 98.
110. See Norbert Elias, The Civilizing Process: Sociogenetic and Psychogenetic Investigations, rev. ed. (Oxford, UK: Wiley-Blackwell, 2000).
111. When Harry Met Sally, directed by Rob Reiner (MGM, 1989), DVD.
112. Making Trouble, directed by Rachel Talbott (Jewish Women’s Archive, 2007), DVD.
113. See “‘When Harry Met Sally’: Flash Mob Recreates Iconic Deli Scene,” Hollywood Reporter (11/14/2013). For the video, see Improv Everywhere, “Harry Met Sally Orgasm Scene Prank—Movies in Real Live (Ep 7),” YouTube (11/12/2013), http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shC016PnxPs.
114. Broadway Danny Rose, directed by Woody Allen (Orion Pictures, 1984), DVD.
115. Jeffrey Rubin-Dorsky, “The Catskills Reinvented (and Redeemed): Woody Allen’s Broadway Danny Rose,” Kenyon Review 25.3 (2003): 264–281. This deli connection is made throughout Allen’s oeuvre; in Bananas, for example, Allen’s character orders a thousand sandwiches with coleslaw from a band of revolutionaries in the jungle. Bananas, directed by Woody Allen (MGM, 2000), DVD.
116. “The Larry David Sandwich,” Curb Your Enthusiasm, season 5, episode 1, originally aired 9/25/2005 (HBO Studios, 2006), DVD.
117. Kenneth A. Briggs, “Orthodox Judaism Is Buoyed by a Resurgence in New York,” New York Times (3/29/1983), A1.
118. Bryan Miller, “Kosher Dining Out: The Options Grow,” New York Times (10/8/1986), C1.
119. Jacqueline Rivkin, “The Ys of a Kosher Cooking School,” Kosher Gourmet (3/1989), 6–7.
120. Jacqueline Rivkin, “Kosher Gourmet Clubs Provide Adventurous Eating,” Kosher Gourmet (6–8/1987), 6.
121. Sam Levenson, “Oh Cuisine!,” Saturday Review (3/1/1980).
122. Richard Jay Scholem, “A Stalwart of Old-Fashioned Deli Fare,” New York Times (1/18/1998).
123. Joseph Berger, “As Delis Dwindle, Traditions Lose Bite,” New York Times (5/15/1998), B1.
124. “Facts about New York City,” Harpers (4/1998).
125. Jonathan Mark, “When the Bronx Had Delis,” New York Jewish Week (3/15/1996).
126. Quoted in Ted Merwin, “Serving Up Food with Attitude.” Text/Context, supplement to New York Jewish Week (4/3/2009), http://www.thejewishweek.com/special_sections/text_context/serving_food_attitude.
127. David M. Herszenhorn, “Knishes or Kimchi: Last Kosher Deli Closes on Union Street,” New York Times (8/6/1995), C6.
128. Samuel Freedman, “Indiana Pastrami? Hebrew National Plans Move,” New York Times (8/8/1986), B3.
129. Elliot Weiss, “Packaging Jewishness: Novelty and Tradition in Kosher Food Packaging,” Design Issues 20.1 (2004): 48.
Conclusion
1. Quoted in Ted Merwin, “Hold Your Tongue,” New York Jewish Week (1/13/2006).
2. Andy Newman, “Hold
the Mustard, Maybe Forever,” New York Times (1/6/2006), 1.
3. Ron Rosenbaum, “Where Is the Schmaltz of Yesteryear? Christmas Eve in a Jewish Deli,” Slate (12/27/2007), http://www.slate.com/id/2180953.
4. Adam Gopnik, Through the Children’s Gate: A Home in New York (New York: Random House, 2007), 64–65.
5. What a Pickle: The World’s Greatest Deli Musical, directed by Henry Chalfant and Wayne Lammers (Tribabka Films, 1999), VHS.
6. See David Sax, “Shiva for the Stage Deli,” The Jew & the Carrot (blog), Forward (11/30/2012), http://blogs.forward.com/the-jew-and-the-carrot/167020/shiva-for-the-stage-deli/. See also Ted Merwin, “The American Dream, on Rye,” New York Jewish Week (12/11/2012).
7. Stewart Ain, “Kosher Delis Close across Long Island,” New York Jewish Week (4/2/2014).
8. Interview with the author, 5/23/2014.
9. Andrew Adam Newman, “After 123 Years, Manischewitz Creates Kosher Food for Gentiles,” New York Times (12/26/2011), B3.
10. William Alden, “Equity Fund Buys Maker of Matzos,” New York Times (4/7/2014), B4.
11. Paul Rudnick, “Yummy” (Shouts and Murmurs), New Yorker (6/2/2014), 35. The idea of serving deli food to Christians on Christmas Eve also animates Mike Reiss’s comical children’s book about a deli owner who fills in for Santa Claus. See Mike Reiss, How Murray Saved Christmas, illustrated by David Catrow (New York: Puffin, 2004).
12. See Jeffrey Shandler, Adventures in Yiddishland: Postvernacular Language and Culture (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2005); and David Hollinger, Postethnic America: Beyond Multiculturalism (New York: Basic Books, 2006).
13. Pierre Nora, “Between Memory and History,” in Lawrence D. Kritzman, ed., Realms of Memory: Rethinking the French Past (New York: Columbia University Press, 1996), 12.
14. Nora, “Between Memory and History,” 11.
15. Willensky, When Brooklyn Was the World, 190.
16. Fred Davis, Yearning for Yesterday: A Sociology of Nostalgia (New York: Free Press, 1979), 31.
17. Interview with the author, 3/12/2008.
18. Mimi Sheraton, “Lost, Then Found—New York Classics,” New York Times (7/31/2012), D1.
19. Quoted in R. W. Apple, “Bagging the Endangered Sandwich,” New York Times (9/15/1999), F13.
20. Darra Goldstein, “From the Editor: Food from the Heart,” Gastronomica 4.1 (2004), http://www.gastronomica.org/food-from-the-heart/.
21. Daina Beth Solomon, “Wexler’s Brings the Deli Revolution to L.A.,” Forward (5/7/2014).
22. Julia Moskin, “Everything New Is Old Again,” New York Times (5/27/2014).
23. Michael Kaminer, “The New York Jewish Deli Meets the 21st Century, and the Results Are Geshmak,” Washington Post (7/17/2014).
24. Devra Ferst, “Shabbat Dinner Faces the Future with Panache,” Forward (10/17/2012).
25. Panel discussion at ABC Carpet, New York City Wine and Food Festival, 10/13/2012.
26. Josh Ozersky and David Sax, “Debating the Deli,” Jewish Daily Forward video on Vimeo, http://vimeo.com/58913579 (accessed 3/21/2014).
27. Julia Moskin, “Can the Jewish Deli Be Reformed?,” New York Times (4/14/2010), D1. See also Bonnie Hulkower, “Michael Pollan, Saul’s Deli Secret Pastrami Hawker?,” Treehugger (3/2/2010), http://www.treehugger.com/green-food/michael-pollan-sauls-deli-secret-pastrami-hawker.html.
28. Moskin, “Can the Jewish Deli Be Reformed?”
29. Glenn Collins, “Beef from Creekstone Farms Impresses New York Chefs,” New York Times (3/24/2010), D1.
30. Interview with author, 10/13/2012.
31. Interview with the author, 10/19/2013.
32. Moskin, “Can the Jewish Deli Be Reformed?”
33. Interview with author, 10/19/2013.
34. Noah Bernamoff and Rae Bernamoff, The Mile End Cookbook: Redefining Jewish Comfort Food from Hash to Hamantaschen (New York: Clarkson Potter, 2012), 14.
35. Interview with author, 10/13/2012.
36. Margaret Eby, “Mile End, Russ and Daughters Both Plan Bars,” Forward (9/22/2013).
37. Interview with Michelle Kiefer, 5/20/2011, Nona Brooklyn, http://nonabrooklyn.com/deli-defiant-mile-end%E2%80%99s-noah-bernamoff-does-it-his-way/#.UZNxJzfCuZA (accessed 8/15/2012).
38. Moskin, “Can the Jewish Deli Be Reformed?”
39. Interview with the author, 10/19/2012.
40. Lisa Keys, “High on the Hog,” Tablet (2/5/2010), http://tabletmag.com/jewish-life-and-religion/25147/high-on-the-hog.
41. Josh Ozersky, “How Traif Came to Williamsburg,” Huffington Post (12/15/2010), http://www.huffingtonpost.com/josh-ozersky/how-traif-came-to-william_b_796891.html.
42. Adeena Sussman, “Haimish to Haute in New York,” Forward (3/28/2012).
43. See Sarah Zorn, “Our Favorite Jewish-ish Dishes,” Brooklyn Magazine (11/12/2013).
44. Mary Kong-Devito, “Bigger Is Better at Harold’s Deli,” Girl Meets Food (blog) (12/7/2009), http://dc.eater.com/tags/girl-meets-food.
45. “Mother of Mercy! Is This the End of Katz’s?,” New York (5/17/2007), http://newyork.grubstreet.com/2007/05/mother_of_mercy_is_this_the_en.html.
46. “Food and Drink,” in Kenneth M. Gold and Lori R. Weintrob, eds., Discovering Staten Island: A 350th Anniversary Commemorative History (New York: History Press, 2011), 88.
47. Bonnie Goodman, “The Higher East Side of New York,” PresenTense (blog) (2/22/2008), http://presentense.org/node/389.
48. Interview with the author, 6/19/2007.
49. Interview with the author, 2/14/2008.
50. Interview with the author, 1/3/2014.
51. Daniel Smokler, “Toward a Third Space—New Dimensions of Jewish Education for Emerging Adults,” paper presented at Hillel Conference at NYU (6/2010).
52. Pew Research, Religion & Public Life Project, A Portrait of Jewish Americans (10/1/2013), http://www.pewforum.org/2013/10/01/jewish-american-beliefs-attitudes-culture-survey/.
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