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Index
21 Club (New York), 6
52 Association, 97
92nd Street Y (New York), 156
999 Real Kosher Sausage, 39, 78
Aaronson, Sammy, 31
ABC Kitchen (New York), 179
Abie’s Irish Rose (play), 67
Abrahams, Roger, 55
Abraham’s Delicatessen (Memphis), 104
Adams, Carol, 122
Addams, Jane, 72
Adelman, Karen, 174
Adelman’s Kosher Delicatessen (Brooklyn), 167
African Americans, 4, 10, 66, 105, 125, 130, 180
Ain, Stewart, 167
Aleichem, Sholem, 21, 39
Alexander, Michael, 13, 60
Alfred E. Neuman (character), 147
Algonquin Club, 100
Allen, Steve, 124
Allen, Woody, 149–150
Almond Smash soda, 99
Als, Hilton, 4
Ambassador Theatre, 87
American Dream, the, xiv, 1
Amsterdam, Morey, 124
Anderson, Max, 39
Annie Hall (film), 149–150
anti-Semitism, 36–37, 48, 127, 129, 149, 150
Arcadia (Southern California) , 104
Ashkenazic (Eastern European) culture, 7, 87, 157, 169, 170, 173, 183, 185
Asnas, Max, 60–61
Atkins, Robert , 143
Attman, Harry, 99
Attman, Seymour, 99
Attman’s Delicatessen (Baltimore), 185
Ausubel, Nathan, 128
Awrach and Perl’s (Baltimore), 98
“Axis origin” of, 92
Bacharach, Burt, 91
bacon, 101, 143, 148, 177, 178
Bacon, Lloyd, 66
bagels, 33, 105, 108, 116, 118, 128, 146, 173, 175, 177, 179,184
Bagg, Lyman, 64
Balinska, Maria, 13
Ballow, Nathan, 98
Ballow’s Delicatessen (Baltimore), 98
Baltimore, Maryland, 12, 72, 75, 99–100, 185
Barnet Brodie Kosher Foods (New York), 39, 47
Barney Greengrass (New York), 184
Barney Sheff’s Delicatessen (Boston), 100
Baron, Sandy, 152
Barthes, Roland,14
Bay Parkway, Brooklyn, 85
beef flanken, 105
Belasco, Warren, 2, 129–130
Bellman, Sheryll, 13
Belushi, John, 141
Ben’s Kosher Delicatessen (New York), 6, 162
Benjamin of Tudela Restaurant (New York), 155
Benjamin Rachleff Kosher Meats (New York), 95
Bent, Silas, 74
Bentley, Amy, 93
Berger, Joseph , 157
Berle, Milton,149
Berlin, Irving, 63
Bernamoff, Noah, 13, 174–177
Bernamoff, Rae, 13
Bernstein, Eleanor, 133–134
Bernstein, Leonard, 145
Bernstein on Essex (New York), 133–134, 135, 141. See also Schmulka Bernstein’s Delicatessen
Berra, Yogi, 101
Bial, Henry, 150
Bisman, Aaron, 185
Black Seed Bagels (New York), 177
blue laws, 41
Blue Ridge Mountains (Smokies), 98
Bluebird, The. See People’s Cinema
Boca Raton, Florida, 171
bologna, 92
Bond’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 104
Borscht Capades (musical), 146
Boston, Massachusetts, 4, 8, 31, 36, 100–101, 171
Bowlby, Rachel, 118
Boyle Heights, Los Angeles, 102
Brass Rail Delicatessen (Charlotte), 105
Breakfast at Tiffany’s (film), 147
Brice, Fanny, 151
Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme, 20
brisket, 4, 15, 50, 56, 84, 106, 118, 143, 155, 173, 174, 184
Broadway Danny Rose (film), 152
Broadway theater, 53–68, 70, 87, 146, 147, 149, 202n19,
Bronx, New York, 54, 75, 79, 83, 88, 89, 95, 110, 114, 117, 121, 156, 158, 160, 182
Bronx Delicatessen Dealers Association, 95
Brooklyn, New York, xi, 4, 11, 13, 15, 26, 31, 33, 39, 44, 54, 71, 78, 79, 80, 81, 83–88, 92, 94, 103, 114, 120, 121, 124, 131, 133, 136, 152, 154, 156, 158, 167, 169, 170, 172, 179, 182, 192n21
Brooklyn Dodgers, 114
Brownsville, Brooklyn, 31, 51, 85, 86, 95, 136
Brownsville Kosher Meats (Brooklyn), 95
Burstein, Pesach, 71
Burtson, Bud, 55
Bushwick, Brooklyn, 87
butcher shops, 17, 28, 29, 31, 42, 51, 76, 77, 93, 103, 104, 115, 121, 133
Caesar, Samuel, 51
Caesar, Sid, 107
Café Masada (New York), 156
Campbell Soup Company, 130
candy stores, 34, 117, 131, 198n63
Canter’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 102
Cantor, Jay, 89
Carnegie Delicatessen, 99, 141, 149, 152, 157, 164–166, 167, 180, 183
Carroll, Peter N., 142
Catskill Mountains, 107–110, 123, 152, 174, 178
Celebrities and the deli, 56
celery tonic, 4, 35, 47–48, 88, 158, 174, 178
Cel-Ray Tonic (Dr. Brown’s), 47–48, 158
cervelat, 101
Chan, Millie, 156
Chaplin, Charlie, 62
Charlie Brown (character), 148
Charlotte, North Carolina, 105
Chase, Jack, 118
Cheers (TV show), 8
cheese blintzes, 110
cheesecake, 4, 56, 63, 70, 97, 102
Cherches, Peter, 131
Chicago, Illinois, 28, 72, 101–102, 146, 147
Chinese food/Chinese delicatessen, 26; attraction for Jews, 113–114, 129–135
Chompie’s New York Deli (Phoenix, Arizona), 179
chopped liver, 61, 89, 103, 105, 110, 146–147, 148, 155, 163, 170, 178, 184, 185
Chotzinoff, Samuel, 37, 40
chow mein, 97
Chrissey, Forrest, 28
Chun King Chinese food, 130
City Grit Restaurant (New York), 173
City Kosher Meats Company (New York), 120
civil rights era, 105
Clancy’s Kosher Wedding (film), 67
Coca-Cola, 141
coffee house, 35
Cohen, Jerry, 106
Cohen, Lizabeth, 123
Cohen, Mark, 147
Cohen, Rich, 103
Cohen, Wolfie, 106. See also Wolfie’s Delicatessen
Cohens and the Kellys, The (film), 67
Cohen’s Deli
catessen (Los Angeles), 102
Cole, Nat “King,” 101
cole slaw, 71, 153
Colgate-Palmolive Company, 130
Como, Perry, 110
Condon, Richard, 3
Coney Island, New York, 34, 80, 103, 138
consumer protection laws, 49–41
Copacabana nightclub (New York), 106
Copeland, Senator Royal S., 47
Copelon, Percy, 146
Corbett, Ruth, 93
corned beef, 95, 96, 99, 101, 102, 103, 104, 106, 107, 108; in space 110–112
“Corned Beef Row” (Baltimore), 99
Cornell University, 110
Cosell, Howard, 114
Counihan, Carole, 12
Courtney, Geene, 122
Cousin’s Delicatessen (Catskills), 108
crime rates, 114–115
Crystal, Billy, 150–152, 151
Curb Your Enthusiasm (TV show), 152–154, 183, 153
Cytryn, Rabbi Eric, 137
Dallmayr Delicatessen (Munich, Germany), 19
Dan’s Supreme Super Market, 115, 121
Danson, Ted, 153
Dassara Restaurant (New York), 179
David, Hal, 91
David, Larry, 142–154, 183, 153
Davis, Fred, 170
Debs, Eugene V., 124
delicatessen food, 7, 32; and beachgoing, 88; and becoming American, 33, 36; catering, 11; in Eastern Europe, 21–22; etymology, 17, 26, 92; and health, 6, 47–49; and masculinity, 148–153; in music, 145–148; rising popularity of, 70–76; in space, 110–112; and spiciness, 45–56; and social mobility, 20; and Sunday closing laws, 43–45, take-out, 11; on television, 145, 152–154
Delicatessen Husband (story), 74
Delicatessen Kid, The (film), 67
delicatessen waiter, 11, 58, 60, 64, 68–70, 89; Chinese, 161, 202n24
“delicatessen wife,” 70–74
delicatessens: in Atlanta, 105; in Baltimore, 99–100; in Boston, 100–101; in the Catskills, 107–110; in Charleston, 104; in Charlotte, 105; in Chicago, 101–102; and cleanliness, 46–47; decline of, 113–189; in Eastern Europe, 23–24; and eating outdoors, 77; and excess, 2; German, in New York, 25–26; in Germany, 19, 92; Eastern European Jewish in America, 1–98, 114–189; family gatherings on Sunday nights, 76, 88; in film 54–55, 66–67; 149–152; and gourmet food, 14; the Great Depression, 76–77, 82–85, 90; hard work in, 82–83; health concerns, 6, 14, 46–49, 122–123, 142–145, 157, 160, 188; homesickness, 33; and the Jewish vote, 10; in Los Angeles, 102–103; on the Lower East Side, 27–34, 39, 41–51, 138–141; in Memphis, 104; in Miami Beach 105–107; mom and pop business, 83–85; in New Orleans, 104; in New York, xi-xii, 1–4, 6–12, 25–34, 37–52, 54–97; in outer space, 110–112; proximity to Broadway, 53–68; proximity to cinemas, 86–88; secular Judaism and, 85–86, 89–90; and sex, 3, 9, 14, 17, 45–56; smell of, 3; in the suburbs, 115; in vaudeville, 48