The Prison Cookbook

by Peter Higginbotham

  FRYING.

  This process of cooking is defined as boiling in solid fats or oil. Lard and dripping (clarified fat) are best adapted for this purpose. Most articles to be fried are coated with either flour, egg, and breadcrumbs or batter, before they are put into the fat.

  The fat used must be sweet and clean, and should be strained each time it is used. It can be used several times if care is taken, but when it is of a dark brown colour it is no longer fit to use.

  Frying is performed at a much higher temperature of heat than any other method of cooking; it is done at 290 to 390 deg. Fah., according to the kind of fat used: oil rises to 400 deg.

  To fry successfully the fat must in all cases be sufficient to well cover the articles to be fried, and must be thoroughly hot (smoking hot) before the article to be so cooked is placed in it. When the fat is hot enough to fry a blueish smoke will arise from it. Another way to test it is to drop a small piece of bread in it, and if it turns a nice brown colour within a few seconds the fat is ready for frying; if on the other hand the bread turns a dark brown it is a sign that the fat is too hot, and in that case it will burn and is not fit to be used until it has cooled a little. Special precautions must be taken to have the fat hot enough and yet not too hot, and to prevent it from burning—in both cases the results would prove failures.

  RULES FOR COOKING VEGETABLES.

  (See also page 37.)

  Tubers, Roots, and so-called green vegetables, such as Cabbage, Greens, Turnip-tops, Savoys, Kale, &c., should be put into fast-boiling salted water, and be quickly brought to the boiling point again, and allowed to cook till tender at a more or less high temperature.

  The following is the average time for cooking vegetables:—

  Potatoes, half-an-hour when small, 40 to 45 minutes when large.

  Cabbage, half-an-hour when small, 40 to 45 minutes when large.

  Carrots and Turnips, 45 minutes when young, one hour when old.

  Parsnips, 45 to 60 minutes.

  Vegetables when once cooked should not be allowed to stay in the water, because this toughens them, and destroys colour and flavour. Green vegetables must always be well drained before they are served.

  THE STOCKPOT.

  Hitherto the stock-pot has played but an unimportant part in prison kitchens. It is, however, of the greatest importance that a stock-pot be constantly kept in all kitchens. The object of a stock-pot is to produce a nourishing broth or liquor, which is used for various purposes instead of water, but mainly for gravies and soups. Either a large boiling pot, a copper boiler, or steam-vessel can be used for this purpose. Into it are put all kinds of bones from meat, provided they are fresh—trimmings of meat and vegetables. The bones must be chopped small, before they are put in the stock-pot, or cooking vessel; either cooked or raw bones and meat can be used, to these the necessary quantity of cold water is added (average quantity being three pints of water to one pound of bones and meat). The whole must then be allowed to come slowly to the boil, when the scum which rises to the surface must be carefully removed. Soup vegetables, such as onions, carrots, turnips, and also a cabbage or two if possible, previously washed and cleaned and cut up, are next added. Allow about 4 hours of gentle boiling. During the process of boiling the scum must be removed occasionally, but the fat rising to the surface must not be removed until the stock is finished. A little salt should be added with the bones, etc., as this will help to bring up the, scum and impurities more quickly. After this the stock should be strained, and used as directed in the recipe.

  The bones may be used again the next day, along with fresh materials, but the vegetables are useless for further boiling, they may be chopped finely and put with the stock when it is made into soup, and thus be made use of.

  Stock when properly made, will provide an excellent basis for soups for the sick; in that case, rice, sago, or tapioca must be cooked with it. Average quantity, one ounce to a, quart of strained stock. Seasoning to be added at the last.

  CHAPTER V.

  PRISON DIETS.

  INGREDIENTS, METHODS, AND INSTRUCTIONS.

  SOUP FOE LOCAL PRISONS.

  (DIETS B AND C).

  INGEEDIENTS.—Sufficient to produce 1 pint of soup. 4 ozs. meat (clods, shoulder, leg, or shin of beef), 2 ozs. fresh vegetables (leek, carrot, turnip, turnip tops or cabbage); liquor, water (stock); 4 ozs. split peas; ½ oz. onion; salt and pepper to taste.

  METHOD.—When fresh meat is used prepare a stock as directed in the following recipe:—Remove the meat as soon as tender, free it from bones and gristle, and mince it up. Put the peas in a large pan with sufficient water to cover them, and let them soak for some hours, the time depending much on the age and condition of the peas. Young peas require little or no soaking, whilst others require from 8 to 12 hours. In the latter case it is best to put the peas to soak over night. Pour off the water, and put them into the copper with the required quantity of water and stock, let the whole come to the boil, remove the scum, and add the vegetables,—these must be previously peeled and washed, and cut up small (the onion should be peeled and minced). Turn the steam on full, i.e., to boiling point, and allow contents of the copper to simmer from 1¼ to 1½ hours. Stir frequently during the process of simmering. Now add the chopped meat, and cook for another quarter of an hour: stir occasionally. If any scum arises to the surface it should be carefully removed with a ladle, but none of the liquid fat must be removed. The salt and pepper should now be added: this must be incorporated very judiciously. In seasoning liquid it should be remembered that an overdose of salt or pepper will spoil the soup. Once the seasoning is added it cannot be taken out, but if underseasoned more can be added at the last moment if found necessary. Whilst the rations of soup are being served out, the contents of the copper must be stirred frequently, so as to make each portion of uniform quality and consistency. Except for skimming or stirring purposes the copper should be kept well closed (covered) during the cooking of the soup.

  SUBSTITUTE (from May to September).—Instead of the above stated ingredients, use 4 oz. beef clod (or shoulder) leg or shin, 1 oz. pearl barley, 2 oz. fresh vegetables, 1 oz. of onion, ⅛ oz. of flour, pepper and salt. Proceed in the same manner as directed in the foregoing recipe, using the barley in place of the peas. Mix the flour with cold water into a smooth paste or batter, and stir into the soup. Cook for 30 minutes longer after the flour is added. Season with salt and pepper. The soup must be frequently stirred.

  VEGETABLE SOUP (BEEF),—CONVICT PRISON DIETARY.

  (DIETS D, E, AND G).

  INGREDIENTS.—To produce 1 pint of soup—8 oz. beef clod or shoulder, leg or shin, for male convicts on Diet E (6 oz. for male and female convicts on Diets D and G respectively), 1 oz. pearl barley, 2 oz. fresh vegetables, 1 oz. onion, ⅛ oz. of flour, salt and pepper.

  METHOD.—Bone the meat, cut it up into thick pieces, and chop or saw the bones into small pieces. Make a bone liquor by adding one quart of water to every lb. of bones, and a little salt, boil up and skim. Cook for 6 to 8 hours, then strain. Do not remove the fat.

  Put the meat into the cooking vessel with 1 pint of water to every lb. of meat; when it boils remove the scum, then add the barley (previously washed) and the vegetables (previously prepared and chopped up finely) also the bone liquor. Cook gently for about 4 hours. Mix the flour with enough cold water to make a smooth paste or batter, and stir it into the soup. Season with pepper and salt, and cook for another ½ an hour. The soup must be stirred frequently whilst cooking. The cooking vessels must be kept closed as much as possible during the cooking process.

  When serving out the rations the soup must be frequently stirred.

  BOILED BACON.

  Place the pieces of bacon to be cooked into the boiling or steaming vessel, add enough cold water to well cover the meat. Bring it to the boil, then reduce the heat to 200 or 210 deg. Fah., and allow it to simmer gently from 2½ to 3 hours, according to the thickness, condition, and size of the bacon. The cooking vessel should be kept
covered during the cooking process.

  The liquor in which the bacon has been cooked must be allowed to get cold, the fat which is formed on the top should be carefully removed, clarified, and used as directed. Cold fat, according to custom adopted, must always be issued proportionately with the bacon as part of the ration. It is most essential that the bacon when cooked be left in the cooking vessel or copper for at least an hour and a half.

  HARICOT BEANS FOR ABOVE.

  Soak the beans in cold water from 6 to 12 hours, according to requirements, drain them and cook them in the bacon liquor. Allow 1½ hours at least for cooking. They should be cooked at moderate heat, so as to allow them to swell. Six ounces of raw beans will produce 12 ounces when properly cooked.

  PEA SOUP (PORK).—CONVICT PRISON DIETARY.

  (DIETS D AND E).

  INGREDIENTS to produce 1 pint of soup.—4 oz. salt pork, 4 oz. split peas, 1 oz. onions, ¼ oz. vinegar, salt and pepper, water.

  METHOD.—Soak the peas overnight, by pouring over enough cold fresh water to well cover them. The actual quantity of water required depends upon the nature and dryness of the peas used.

  Place the pork in the copper or other cooking vessel, add cold water, bring slowly to the boil, and remove the scum but not the fat. Then simmer gently for 4 or 5 hours. Pork so cooked must be left in the liquor in which it is cooked all night, and the fat on top of the liquor must not be removed. On the morning following, pour off the water from the peas, and substitute an equal quantity of fresh water; to this add the given quantity of chopped onions and a little salt. Bring to the boil, remove the scum, and cook slowly for about 2 hours. Stir occasionally to prevent the peas, etc., from burning.

  The cooked pork must next be taken out of the copper, the bones removed, and the meat chopped finely. This is then added with the liquor to the peas, etc., and brought to the boiling point whilst stirring. If needed, add some boiling water to make up the necessary quantity of soup. Season to taste with salt and pepper. The vinegar is next added to give additional flavour. Allow the whole to boil (simmer) gently for another hour or so. It is then ready to serve.

  Special note. The copper lids must be kept closed as much as possible whilst the process of cooking this soup goes on. Frequent stirring is also necessary.

  MEAT LIQUOR (STOCK).

  Break up the meat bones into small pieces, put them into the copper or cauldron with cold water, allow 1 quart of water to 1 lb. of bones, add a little salt, and bring to the boil. Skim, and simmer at a temperature of 200 deg. to 210 deg. Fah. from 4 to 5 hours. Strain off the liquor and let it get cold; the fat which is formed on the surface must be put into the soup. Measure out the quantity of liquor required for the soup, and add water if not found sufficient to make up the required quantity. The bones should be placed on a wooden tray, and any particle of meat adhering thereto must be removed, minced up small, and added to the soup.

  LIQUOR (THICKENED) MADE FROM THE ABOVE.

  INGREDIENTS.—To 1 pint of stock (a ration).— oz. flour, ½ oz. onion, pepper and salt to taste.

  METHOD.—Mix the flour with a little cold stock or water, and work into a batter (the liquid must be stirred gradually into the flour). Peel and mince, or chop finely, the onion, and stir the batter and onion into the stock, stir till the contents of the copper or cauldron reach boiling heat, and let simmer for at least twenty minutes longer, season lightly with pepper and salt. The liquor is then ready for use.

  COCOA.

  Cocoa as a beverage is more nourishing than tea or coffee, it possesses a stimulating principle called “Theobromine”, similar to the “Theine” in tea and the “Caffeine” in coffee.

  Admiralty Cocoa is issued in block, and is similar in consistency and quality to what is known as “Compound Cocoa” containing a certain percentage of arrowroot, sugar, and sundry fatty ingredients. It requires from 20 to 30 minutes boiling.

  The best way to prepare cocoa is to put it in a boiling pan with enough water to make it into a paste; this can easily be done as it becomes heated. Cocoa must be well stirred whilst it is being cooked.

  INGREDIENTS.—To make 1 pint of Cocoa, ¾ of an oz. of Admiralty Cocoa, ¾ of an oz. of sugar and 2 oz. of milk are allowed.

  METHOD.—Break up the cocoa and put it into the Cooking vessel with sufficient water to well cover it, stir till dissolved, then add the remainder of water, allow to simmer for 20 minutes, add the sugar and milk, boil again and serve.

  TEA.

  INGREDIENTS.—To produce one pint:— oz. tea, 2 oz. milk, ¾ oz. sugar.

  METHOD.—The tea must be placed in a fine canvas or muslin bag, tied up loosely; or else put into a strainer. The correct quantity of water needed to produce the required bulk is put into a clean urn or cauldron (copper boiler or other vessel), bring it to the boil, drop in the tea, and allow it to remain in for about 10 minntes; after this remove the tea, add the milk and the sugar and keep hot, but not boiling, till it is time to serve it.

  POTATOES.

  Potatoes are as a rule best when cooked in their skins. They must be thoroughly scrubbed and washed in several waters. The best way to do this is by scrubbing them with a bass broom in a tank with sufficient water to cover them. After being well scrubbed rinse them thoroughly in fresh water, and drain them. They can either be steamed or boiled. If boiled, put them in a vessel containing sufficient cold water to well cover them, and add enough salt to flavour the water; boil fast till they are done, then drain, and let them dry for a few minutes; keep hot.

  Steaming is, however, the better process, because the flavour of the potato is thereby improved, and the waste is somewhat less than by boiling. A little more time must be allowed for steaming than for boiling.

  When it is necessary to peel potatoes, the rind must be removed as thinly as possible, because the best and most nutritious part of the potato is immediately under the skin. As the potatoes are peeled place them in a pan of cold water, and leave them there till required. If any parts of a potato are discoloured, or if any be found spotted in the inside, the defective part must be cut off and thrown away. Peeled potatoes are cooked in the same manner as those cooked in their skins.

  Time allowed for cooking is generally ½ an hour for boiling and ¾ of an hour for steaming. They should be arranged in the cooking vessels so that they cook evenly; very large potatoes should be picked out and cooked in a separate tray or vessel, as it will take somewhat longer to cook them than those of small or moderate size.

  SUET PUDDING.

  INGREDIENTS.—To produce 1 lb. of pudding when cooked. 2 oz. suet, ½ lb. flour or whole-meal, 6½ oz. or 1½ gills cold water, a pinch of salt.

  METHOD.—Free the suet from skin, and chop finely. Add the flour, and mix thoroughly, then add the salt, and mix with the water. Put it into greased tins or pans, and steam or boil for 2½ to 3 hours, according to size of tins or pans used.

  The best way to ascertain if the pudding is done is to insert a skewer; if the skewer comes out clean the pudding is done and fit for serving; if not, additional cooking (steaming or boiling) is required.

  By way of change this pudding can also be cooked in the oven (baked).

  GRUEL.

  INGREDIENTS to produce 1 pint of gruel.—2 oz. coarse oatmeal (Scotch), 1 pint water, ¼ teaspoonful salt (or ½ oz. sugar, Diet D).

  METHOD.—Mix the oatmeal in a pan with sufficient cold water to form a paste. Heat up the remainder of water till it boils, and stir in the mixed oatmeal, add the salt, and allow it to simmer for at least 20 minutes. It is necessary to stir the mixture occasionally with a wooden spoon or bat, otherwise it is likely to burn.

  PORRIDGE.

  INGREDIENTS to produce 1 pint of porridge.—3 oz. coarse oatmeal (Scotch), ½ teaspoonful salt, 1¼ pints water.

  METHOD.—Put the oatmeal and salt into the pan in which the porridge is to be cooked, stir in gradually the required quantity of cold water; stir well to make it smooth. Turn on the steam full, and bring to the boil. Cook for at least hal
f an hour at a heat of about 210 deg. Fah. Be careful to stir the contents of the copper frequently with a wooden spoon or bat to prevent lumps and burning.

  Some cooks prefer to make porridge by stirring the oatmeal into boiling water. This method is not recommended, as it is then more apt to make the porridge lumpy, and when cooked it is not nearly so digestible.

  Note.—As the oatmeal is not always of uniform quality, it may be found that some meal will require a little more water than others. Coarse oatmeal is considered best for porridge.

  Where steam is not employed in cooking, the porridge or gruel is to be cooked in convenient cooking vessels over the fire, the time required being about the same as for steaming, but the simmering heat (slow cooking) must be carried out where so indicated, and the heat of the fire must be regulated accordingly.

  MILK PORRIDGE.

  When milk porridge is ordered, mix ¼ pint of boiled or scalded milk with the porridge prepared as directed in the foregoing recipe, the only exception being that instead of using 1¼ pints of water, only 1 pint should be used.

  The milk must not be added until the porridge is cooked, and should then be allowed to cook for another 10 or 15 minutes.

  CHAPTER VI.

  HOSPITAL DIET.

  INSTRUCTIONS AND MODES OF PREPARATION OF DISHES.

  It is essential and important that special care should be taken in preparing and cooking food for the sick; and also that it should be nicely served. Everything, utensils as well as materials, used for sick diet must be perfectly clean and fresh. Greasy cooking dishes should be avoided, and all food, unless intended for convalescents, must contain but very little seasoning. Great pains should be taken to see that dishes to be served hot are so kept. Half warm food, or partially cold food, is distasteful to people in health, and much more so to the sick.