How to Eat
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with pomegranate, 133
roast, 89–91, 274, 275
Duck liver sauce, 438
Dumplings
semolina (gnocchetti di semolino), 85
slump, summer, 280–81
Eggplant
moussaka, 104–5
provolone-stuffed (involtini), 361–62
ratatouille, 102–4
and shrimp crostini, 304
slices with pomegranate juice and mint, 240–41
Eggs
children’s recipes, 419, 422, 424, 425–26
frittata, 425–26
gypsy toast, 422–23
hard-boiled, with mayonnaise, 14
poached, kale with chorizo and, 149–50
soufflé, pea, 142–43
whites, 17–19, 70
See also Meringues
Fairy cakes, 448–49
Fennel, 290, 376
Figs, 402
baked, 187
ice cream with, 178
Turkish delight, 351
Fish
and beans, 416–17
ceviche with hot garlic potatoes, 314–15
children’s recipes, 415, 416–17, 420–21, 426, 442–43
haddock, marinated smoked, Parmentier crêpes with, 219, 220–21
monkfish, roast, 354–55
mullet, red, with garlic and rosemary, 168–69
pie, Blakean, 357–58
pie, and porcini, 241–43
sandwiches, 455
sea bass, baked, with rosemary, 263–64
sole with chanterelles, 172–73
trout Chambéry, 181
See also Anchovies; Cod; Mackerel; Salmon; Tuna
Fishcakes, salmon, 442–43
Fools
damson, 47
passion fruit, 174–75
raspberry, 191
Freezer food, 67–70, 167, 370–71
Frittata, 425–26
Fruit, 25, 70, 73, 197, 198, 235, 401–3
for babies and children, 411–12
See also Berries; Fruit salads; specific fruits
Fruit salads
orange and date, Moroccan, 215
red currant and peach, 325–26
strawberries in dark syrup, 346
tropical, 274, 402
tropical, with butterscotch sauce, 274, 275
Garlic, 12, 72
beef fillet with red wine, anchovies, thyme and, 343, 344–45
cannellini/cranberry beans with sage and, warm, 258–59
chicken wings, 239–40
mushrooms, 423–24
and pea crostini, 301
potatoes, 315
potatoes, hot, ceviche with, 314–15
potatoes, leg of lamb, butterflied, with, 338–39
red mullet with rosemary and, 168–69
roasted whole, 9, 62, 420
roast, and lemon dressing, 395
shrimp, with chili pepper and, 129
tahini, lamb with, 174
vegetables with ginger and, 376
Ginger
chicken, roast, 198
duck with soy and, 166
stem, gingerbread, 114–15
stem, with ice cream, 167, 178
vegetables with garlic and, 376
Gingerbread, stem ginger, 114–15
Gnocchetti di semolino, 85
Goose, Christmas, 52–53
Gooseberry compote, panna cotta with, 45–47
Gorgonzola with mascarpone and marsala crostini, 302
Grapes, 235, 326, 403
Gravy
beef, 249, 252–53
chicken, 8–9
goose, 53
pork, 286
red wine, cumin and onion, 245–46
turkey, 56–57
Greek lamb stew, 95–97
Green beans
with green salad, 276–77
wrapped in prosciutto, 304–5
Greencakes, 443–44
Green goddess dressing, little gems with, 332–33
Grouse
with mascarpone and thyme, 151–52
roasted, 47, 380
Guacamole, 321, 322
Gypsy toast, 422–23
Haddock, marinated smoked, Parmentier crêpes with, 219, 220–21
Ham, 195, 211–12
in cider, 212–14
in Coca-cola, 293–94
cod wrapped in, 323
glazes for, 292–93
meatballs, and turkey, 436
patties, and parsley, 21
roast fresh, 382–83
stock, 78, 141
and veal pasta, baked, 87–88
Harissa, 208–9
Hash, turkey, Ed Victor’s, 61–62
Hazelnut cake, 321, 324–25
Herbs, 11–12
Hollandaise, 14–15
Honey
duck with orange and, 166
ricotta with toasted pine nuts and, 172
yogurt, passion fruit, and cream, 211
Horseradish sauce, 250
fresh, with chives, 265–66
Hummus with seared lamb and toasted pine nuts, 237–39
Ice cream
chocolate, 34–35
with ginger, stem, or figs, 167, 178
lemon, 250–51, 254–55
lemon meringue, 255
rhubarb, 309, 311–12
toppings for, 167, 183, 243
vanilla, 33–34
Irish stew, 358–59
Irish tarte Tatin, 229, 231–32
Italian broth (brodo), 84–85
Jam tarts, 449–50
Jelly
mint, orange, and red-currant, 275
rhubarb and muscat, 310, 312–13
sauternes and lemon balm, 337, 341–42
Kale with chorizo and poached egg, 149–50
Kidney, and steak pie, 223–25
Lamb
and bean braise, 139–40
cawl, 94–95
with chickpeas, 348–50
chops, for children, 423
cottage pie, 429–32
with garlicky tahini, 174
gigot boulangère, 278–79
Greek stew, 95–97
Irish stew, 358–59
leg of, butterflied, with garlic potatoes, 338–39
rack of, cinnamon-hot, 185
roast, caper sauce for,281–82
roast shoulder of, 275, 276
seared, and toasted pine nuts, with hummus, 237–39
Langue de chat, 19
Latkes, 63
Leeks
roasted, 286–87, 319, 376
and wine, German, 270
Leftovers, 67–68, 134–35
Christmas, 51, 61–64
Lemon, 376
avgolemono sauce, 200
chicken, 199–200
cream, 247
curd, 30–31
dressing, and roast garlic, 395
and egg sauce, chicken with rice and, 362–63
ice cream, 250–51, 254–55
ice cream, meringue, 255
linguine, 229, 230–31
pie, 272–74
pie, meringue, 256
Lemon balm and sauternes jelly, 337, 341–42
Lentils, 309
and black olive crostini, 303
sage and onion, 323–24
soup, and chestnut, 64
Lettuce
and lovage soup, 11
and pea soup, 347–48
Lime cream, mascarpone, and rum, 173
Linguine
with bacon, 146
with clams, 123–24
with crab, 393–94
lemon, 229, 230–31
Liver
breaded, 165
children’s recipes, 414–16, 438
with marsala, 131–32, 164–65
with sweet onions, 132–33
veal, and bacon pie, 432–34
Lovage, 11
and lettuce soup, 11
Macaroni and cheese, 427–28<
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Macaroons, 19
Mackerel
in cider, 179–80
smoked, 417
teriyaki, 384–85
Madeleines, Proust’s, 346–47
Maltaise sauce, 15–16
Mango, 401–2
Marjoram, oxtail with stout and, 92–93
Marmalade, Seville orange, 44–45
Marsala, 72
custard, muscovado, with muskily spiced prunes, 330–32
with gorgonzola and mascarpone crostini, 302
with liver, 131–32, 164–65
zabaglione, 154
Mascarpone
with gorgonzola and marsala crostini, 302
grouse with thyme and, 151–52
rhubarb, and muscat trifle, 107–9
rum, and lime cream, 173
tiramisu, white, 111–12
Mayonnaise
basic, 12–14
green (sauce verte), 14
rosemary and anchovy, 257–58
Meatballs in tomato sauce, 434–36
Meringues, 17–18, 167
lemon, ice cream, 255
lemon, pie, 256
pavlova, 332, 336
rhubarb pie, 234–35
Microwave oven, 167, 189, 371
Mincemeat pies, 60–61
Minestrone, 214, 215–17
Miso
black cod marinated in den miso, 385
broth, vegetable, 389
dressing, -mustard, 394
dressing, thick, for beans, 395
Monkfish, roast, 354–55
Mont Blanc, 176
Morels, chicken with, 135–36
Moroccan orange and date salad, 215
Mostarda di Venezia, 48–49
Moussaka, 104–5
Mullet, red, with garlic and rosemary, 168–69
Muscat
quinces poached in, 329–30
rhubarb, and mascarpone trifle, 107–9
and rhubarb jelly, 310, 312–13
Mushrooms
chanterelles, sole with, 172–73
crostini, 303–4
garlic, 423–24
mixed, 356
morels, chicken with, 135–36
pheasant with bacon and, braised, 101
porcini and fish pie, 241–43
ragoût, 202–3
raw, spinach and bacon salad, 262
risotto, 441–42
risotto, restrained, 392–93
sandwiches, 122–23
shiitake, dried, braised, with soba noodles, 383
shiitake, noodles with scallions, snow peas and, 178
soup, udon, 382
Mussels
marinière, 125–26
Thai-flavored, 386–87
Mustard
Chinese hot, sugar-spiced salmon with, 379–80
dressing, Dijon, 394–95
dressing, miso-, 394
Noodles
buckwheat, beet greens with, 390–91
chicken, 145
rice, with garlic, scallions, chili, and soy, 121
with scallions, shiitake mushrooms, and snow peas, 178
and seaweed salad, 383–84
soba, shiitake mushrooms, dried, braised, with, 383
soup, chili beef, aromatic, 381–82
soup, udon mushroom, 382
Nutmeg, 72, 376
pasta with butter and, 163
Nuts. See specific nuts
Oils
basil, 233
flavored and infused, 163–64
rosemary-infused, 258
spaghetti aglio olio, 145–46
See also Truffle oil
Olives, 196
black, and lentil crostini, 303
green, paste and roast pepper crostini, 302
Onions, 72
burnt, clapshot with, 287
gravy, red wine, cumin and, 245–46
lentils, sage and, 323–24
mush, 106–7
sauce, 269–70
sweet, liver with, 132–33
tart, 353–54
Oranges
cake, clementine, 66–67
cake, orange-blossom and almond, 115–16, 357
and date salad, Moroccan, 215
duck à la, 43–44
duck with honey and, 166
mint, and red-currant jelly, 275
salsa, duck with, 177–78
scallops with bitter, 44
Seville, 43
curd tart, 246
marmalade, 44–45
stuffing, and cranberry, 55
syrup, 28
zest, 198–99
Organic food, 73
Oxtail with stout and marjoram, 92–93
Oysters, ice-cold, hot sausages with, 313–14
Pancakes, 36
blini, 152–54
latkes, 63
See also Crêpes
Pancetta
and chestnut salad, 327
spaghetti carbonara, 146–47
Panchphoran Aloo, 63–64
Panna cotta, scented, with gooseberry compote, 45–47
Pantry food, 70–72, 369–70
Papaya, 235, 401, 411–12
Parmesan, 69, 216
pasta with butter, cream, truffle oil and, 163
Parsley
and ham patties, 21
salsa verde, 181–83
sauce, 20–21
tabbouleh, 236–37
Parsnips
roast, 269–70
soup, 78
Passion fruit
curd, 31
fool, 174–75
pavlova, 332, 336
yogurt, honey, and cream, 211
Pasta
with anchovy sauce, 148–49
baked, 86–87
baked, veal and ham, 87–88
beef and beans with, 434
with butter and bouillon cube juices, 147–48
with butter, cream, parmesan, and truffle oil, 163
with butter and nutmeg, 163
and butternut squash soup, 144
and chickpea soup, 79–80
children’s recipes, 412–13, 417, 427–28, 439
lamb stew, Greek, 95–97
macaroni and cheese, 427–28
pantry supplies, 71
sausages, sauce with, 439
tagliatelle with chicken from the Venetian ghetto, 362
with unpestoed pesto, 148
See also Linguine; Noodles; Spaghetti
Pastry
blind baking, 39–41
dough
plain, 36–38
rich, 38
sweet, 39–41
See also Pies; Tarts
Pavlova, 332, 336
Pea(s), 140, 199, 261, 269, 415
and cod, 426
crostini, and garlic, 301
mint, and avocado salad, 343
orzotto, 318–19
petit pois à la Française, 105–6, 274–75
purée, roast cod, with, 175–76
risotto, 140–41
soufflé, 142–43
soup, 162
and lettuce, 347–48
split, 78, 80–81, 214
Peaches
poached, with sauternes custard, 339–41
and red currant salad, 325–26
sugar-sprinkled, roast, 171
Pears
and pecorino, 199
poires belle Hélène, 221–23
Pecorino and pears, 199
Peppers
and anchovies, 86
grilled, salad, 337–38, 375
in ratatouille, 102–4
roast, with green olive paste crostini, 302
skinning, 86
See also Chili (peppers)
Periwinkles, 450
Pesto, 72, 419
chicken, grilled, with, 165
unpestoed, pasta with, 148
Pheasant
with gin and it, 333–35
with mushrooms and bacon, braised, 101
cherry, 294–95
chicken, 440–41
cottage/shepherd, 429–32
fish, Blakean, 357–58
fish and porcini, 241–43
lemon, 272–74
lemon meringue, summer, 256
mincemeat, 60–61
rhubarb meringue, 234–35
steak and kidney, 223–25
veal, liver, and bacon, 432–34
Pig’s bum, 291–92
Pine nuts
toasted, ricotta with honey and, 172
toasted, and seared lamb, with hummus, 237–39
Pistachio
crescents, 351–52
-sprinkled poached apricots stuffed with crème fraîche, 320
Plums
baked spiced aromatic, 116
fool, damson, 47
and grapes all’Italiana, 235
Polenta, oven-cooked, 203–4
Pomegranate
duck with, 133
juice, eggplant, slices with mint and, 240–41
Porcini and fish pie, 241–43
Pork
char siu, 399–400
deglazing sauce, 154
loin with bay leaves, 308–9
loin, roast, 285–86
See also Bacon; Ham; Pancetta; Sausages
Potatoes, 85–86
baked, and cheese, 373–74
children’s recipes, 418–21, 424–25
crêpes, Parmentier with marinated smoked haddock, 219, 220–21
“croutons,” 307–8
garlic, 315, 425
hot, ceviche with, 314–15
leg of lamb, butterflied, with, 338–39
latkes, 63
leftover, 135
mashed
baked, 132
bubble and squeak, 61
children’s recipes, 418–21
cottage and shepherd pie, 429–32
and sausages, 176, 245
stuffing, 53
truffle oil and warm Santa Barbara shrimp, 68
new, 345
and quails’ eggs, 424
with truffle oil, 260–61
Potatoes (continued)
Panchphoran Aloo (whole spices), 63–64
roast, 9, 57, 62, 85–86, 249–50, 253, 268, 279, 425
salad niçoise, 127–28
skins, paprika-toasted (and their mashed pulp), 321, 322–23
Prosciutto, 196, 233
beans wrapped in, 304–5
Provolone-stuffed eggplant (involtini), 361–62
Prunes, muskily spiced, marsala muscovado custard with, 330–32
Puddings
chocolate
gooey, 169
steamed seven-minute, 189–90
sticky, 200
mascarpone, rum, and lime cream, 173
Mont Blanc, 176
panna cotta, scented, with gooseberry compote, 45–47
pig’s bum, 291–92
queen of puddings, Christmas, 65–66
rice, 261–62
rice, risotto-inspired, 157
syllabub, quince, 113–14, 244
zabaglione, 154
See also Custard; Fools; Trifles; Yorkshire pudding
Pumpkin purée, 355
Quail
eggs and new potatoes, 424
lacquered, 389–90
marinated flattened, 133–34
Queen of puddings, 65–66
Quinces, 47–48, 326
mostarda di Venezia, 48–49